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lemonadesweetheart posted:They are all really great but I really love your skin work. Hey thanks! Taking a high-ish resolution photo of them and seeing all the mistakes and sloppiness up close is a little demoralizing haha
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Jun 25, 2016 23:36
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Mugaaz posted:Getting back into warmahordes, decided on Trollbloods. Bought a lot off of bartertown. Started painting again, figured I'd begin with the battlebox beasts, but thought it was 2 impalers + axer for some reason, whoops. Xposting from WMH thread. First time making my own bases, or pinning. I'm a loving moron and didn't make the base or pin the feet until after they were painted. I ended up rubbing the paint off drilling the feet, then I ended up drilling through the foot and out the front of one of the impalers. Note to self, make the bases and pin poo poo before painting. One thing I don't get with the cork basing thing and attaching them. What is the correct order of operations here? Like you need to hook the pin under the plastic part to get it solid, but I dont see how you do that by gluing the pins into the feet, pushing it through, then trying to bend it on the other side. I tried doing it the other way, but couldnt get the pins to line up after a million attempts. Also, I got a cheap photo booth like is recommended, but honestly the pictures in it just seem much worse than taking with no setup where I paint. Example:  What am I doing wrong?
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Jun 26, 2016 04:02
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What kind of camera are you using? Do you have control over ISO, aperture, and shutter speed?
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Jun 26, 2016 04:06
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Iphone 5s
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Jun 26, 2016 04:16
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Those are cool and good.
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Jun 26, 2016 04:55
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Mugaaz posted:Xposting from WMH thread. First time making my own bases, or pinning. I'm a loving moron and didn't make the base or pin the feet until after they were painted. I ended up rubbing the paint off drilling the feet, then I ended up drilling through the foot and out the front of one of the impalers. Note to self, make the bases and pin poo poo before painting. I'd say you can see more/better in the photobooth. The table shot just looks better because of the shadows on the mode and the different angle.
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Jun 26, 2016 05:24
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Everything I read said you don't want shadows, and that you want multiple diffuse light sources. It just looks worse to me though, the color just looks less saturated.
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Jun 26, 2016 05:49
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Mugaaz posted:Everything I read said you don't want shadows, and that you want multiple diffuse light sources. It just looks worse to me though, the color just looks less saturated. It's probably less saturated because the phone is automatically matching the shot speed to the lighting. That's my guess anyway.
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Jun 26, 2016 05:56
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I have a modelling question so I hope this is the right thread. I want to attach this mini to this base and am trying to figure out the best way to do it? I feel like if I just use glue they will break apart in seconds. I should probably pin them, shouldn't I? 
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Jun 26, 2016 08:31
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Mugaaz posted:Xposting from WMH thread. First time making my own bases, or pinning. I'm a loving moron and didn't make the base or pin the feet until after they were painted. I ended up rubbing the paint off drilling the feet, then I ended up drilling through the foot and out the front of one of the impalers. Note to self, make the bases and pin poo poo before painting. I don't like the bases but only because you've used so many different colours on them. They draw attention from the model and don't make sense. What kind of goofy... forest? are they standing in?
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Jun 26, 2016 08:55
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cyberia posted:I have a modelling question so I hope this is the right thread. When in doubt, pin! If that's a metal mini it definitely needs to be pinned, and even resin is kind of iffy. It might hold a while but it'll save you effort and heartbreak to do it now. SERPUS posted:Is there a recommended putty for gap filling? I see Green Stuff being named all the time, but that almost seems like a catch-all for modeling putty. Is there any real difference between that stuff and any other 2-part epoxy? Greenstuff is probably the easiest and cheapest one you can get your hands on, that's all - and yes, that's a catchall for the blue/yellow-combo modeling putty. (The proper brand name is 'Kneadadite', for the record, and regardless of who sells it - Gale Force Nine, Army Painter, geedubs, whatever, it's from their factory). The same company also does various different types of epoxy putty - gray stuff, brown stuff, whatever - with slightly different qualities. I'm not sure what the differences between the various types are but I'm under the impression greenstuff is about in the optimum zone for moldability and handling time, modeling-wise?
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Jun 26, 2016 09:26
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cyberia posted:I have a modelling question so I hope this is the right thread. You might actually be better off with a tiny magnet in this case. With something that flimsy you risk breaking it above the pin if it takes a knock, whereas a magnet will just fall off.
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Jun 26, 2016 10:01
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cyberia posted:I have a modelling question so I hope this is the right thread. Out of interest where is this model from?
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Jun 26, 2016 10:32
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Z the IVth posted:Out of interest where is this model from? It's one of the Raging Heroes 'Toughest Girls of The Galaxy' models. Specifically 'Natasha Kurganova, Coms Operator'. edit - and the base is a 'Tech' base from Micro Art Studios. thespaceinvader posted:You might actually be better off with a tiny magnet in this case. With something that flimsy you risk breaking it above the pin if it takes a knock, whereas a magnet will just fall off. What size magnet should I look for, roughly?
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Jun 26, 2016 12:57
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cyberia posted:It's one of the Raging Heroes 'Toughest Girls of The Galaxy' models. Specifically 'Natasha Kurganova, Coms Operator'. As a somewhat unrelated side note regarding the Raging Heroes stuff you should be extra thorough with the cleaning because their release agent is surprisingly hard to get rid off if you follow their instructions. I think I gave mine three different baths and scrubbing sessions with a toothbrush and the primer just flaked off because I hadn't gotten rid of the stuff.
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Jun 26, 2016 14:34
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Drake_263 posted:When in doubt, pin! If that's a metal mini it definitely needs to be pinned, and even resin is kind of iffy. It might hold a while but it'll save you effort and heartbreak to do it now. I definitely agree with pinning, and you may also want to pair the instep of her boot to the side of the raised area. You can glue an L shape with the additional contact surface area, instead of just the single seam and pin. It's sometimes helpful to add things like rocks or battlefield debris touching feet (just for the purpose of increasing contact area,) but here you've already got that raised portion to work with.
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Jun 26, 2016 15:16
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sassassin posted:I don't like the bases but only because you've used so many different colours on them. They draw attention from the model and don't make sense. What kind of goofy... forest? are they standing in? Ehh, feel the opposite honestly. Most growth is not the same color. As far as drawing attention from the model, I have mixed feelings there. Doesn't that mean the base is interesting to some degree? I don't really know either way, I pulled off exactly what I was trying to accomplish. Not really sure what I was trying to accomplish was a good idea or not.
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Jun 27, 2016 00:26
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Mugaaz posted:Ehh, feel the opposite honestly. Most growth is not the same color. As far as drawing attention from the model, I have mixed feelings there. Doesn't that mean the base is interesting to some degree? I like the bases, I'd say the growth would work better if it was mixed together in some degree. Like keep the colors obviously strongly one way, but add a little or the others to it, to give it a more natural feel. Edit: I mean on the static grass Edit 2:. For example, a dash of orange and light green to the dark, to give it a full "blend" Iron Crowned fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 27, 2016 |
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Jun 27, 2016 01:19
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Seems like a good idea and easy enough to do.
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Jun 27, 2016 01:23
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cyberia posted:It's one of the Raging Heroes 'Toughest Girls of The Galaxy' models. Specifically 'Natasha Kurganova, Coms Operator'. Also if it's resin a plain superglue join could hold just as well as a pin. I am not convinced that a magnet will necessarily be better than either with regards to snapping ankles - at least with a pin you can drill up to the calf area and hence strengthen the lower leg as well. Small magnets can rip out of the sockets you glue them into, especially if they are strong. I would recommend scoring the contact surfaces and using gel superglue. That's how most of my infinity minis went together and they are holding up just fine despite being made of metal.
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Jun 27, 2016 12:53
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Mugaaz posted:Ehh, feel the opposite honestly. Most growth is not the same color. As far as drawing attention from the model, I have mixed feelings there. Doesn't that mean the base is interesting to some degree? Most growth does not fall in neat little isolated patches. And while most growth is not the same colour, neither is it usually wildly distinct colours (growing or falling from a single environment). You've got as many distinct colours on your bases as on the models themselves. It's distracting (compare the contrast between face and hair, matched by the patch of orange contrast with the stone).
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Jun 27, 2016 13:22
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I so rarely see this guy painted in non-Word Bearers colors, but here's the Chaplain from Betrayal at Calth:    I tried adding a transfer to his cape to give it some cool trim but I couldn't get it to sit right among all the flowing fabric, so I just tossed that out. Unfortunately it kinda bleached the area I'd tried applying the transfer to, but I was able to touch it up and fix the problem.
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Jun 27, 2016 18:33
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Not sure if I should ask here or the Warhammer thread, but they have a tendency to get derailed for a week talking about hamburgers or Mexican food, so I'll try here first. Part the First: I'm looking to magnetize my WFB model bases for purposes of regiment trays. What's the generally accepted way to do this? I know that I'm not likely to find a reasonably priced thick magnet, so what do people use to get the magnet level with the bottom of the base? A blob of GS? Part the Second: I'm looking for some sweet Egyptian themed trays for my Tomb Kings. Base-X-of-War used to do some, but they don't seem to be in business anymore. Are there any alternatives out there?
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Jun 27, 2016 20:14
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Yeast posted:A good sable brush and some Masters brush soap is a one time investment. Just wanted to chime in that that brush cleaner has given me the courage to use my expensive brush on a regular basis. My wife purchased the big tub for around $20 and I scooped some into little jars I also use for washing. Here's my setup:  My #2 di Vinci brush still has a nice tip after several days of work and the soap restored some of my cheap synthetic Atlas brushes. The Masters stuff is worth its weight in gold.
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Jun 27, 2016 23:42
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inkblottime posted:Just wanted to chime in that that brush cleaner has given me the courage to use my expensive brush on a regular basis. My wife purchased the big tub for around $20 and I scooped some into little jars I also use for washing. Here's my setup: Dang, what are those minis? Looks great!
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Jun 28, 2016 00:03
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Gonna pick up a Winsor and Newton Series 7 brush (and some of that soap ^^^), but I'm not really down on my brush sizes so I'm not sure whether to get the Size 0 or the Size 1. Any thoughts which for just a general purpose brush? I really like the size of the citadel small layer brush so if anyone know which is closest to it that would be great.
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Jun 28, 2016 00:12
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the size 1 is the better general purpose one. The detail you can achieve with a brush is mostly dependent on the precision of the tip, not the mass of the bristles.
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Jun 28, 2016 00:15
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Signal posted:the size 1 is the better general purpose one. The detail you can achieve with a brush is mostly dependent on the precision of the tip, not the mass of the bristles. Cheers! Bought.
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Jun 28, 2016 00:23
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^^^ My wife's using the #1 Winsor Newton Series 7 brush and loves it. It's the main brush she uses except for really fine detail. She hands it off to me for that.w00tmonger posted:Dang, what are those minis? Looks great! Thanks! It's from Zombicide, Special Guest box: Uncle Honk. I'm practicing before I get Black Plague this week and hopefully I'll be good enough after that to make Massive Darkness figures look good when I get it sometime next year. Here's the abomination both my wife and I worked on:  It's not super clean but we're getting there. After painting a few hundred zombies we'll be better. inkblottime fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jun 28, 2016 |
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Jun 28, 2016 00:46
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Finished my second Kingdom Death Slenderman
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Jun 28, 2016 01:50
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inkblottime posted:Here's the abomination both my wife and I worked on: Joint working on a mini or minis sounds kind of fun. I wonder if it would be a good idea to try to get a painting-hating friend to actually work on stuff? Maybe dividing up painting tasks and being able to pass of the frustrating bits would be encouraging?
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Jun 28, 2016 02:45
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dr_ether posted:Finished my second Kingdom Death Slenderman This dude is  , his trousers are a little boring though.
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Jun 28, 2016 03:39
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^^^ I love the bruising on his hands!GoodBee posted:Joint working on a mini or minis sounds kind of fun. I wonder if it would be a good idea to try to get a painting-hating friend to actually work on stuff? Maybe dividing up painting tasks and being able to pass of the frustrating bits would be encouraging? Well, too be fair, we pick the ones we want to do and then help each other after base-coating if needed. There are some that I've taken to completion and so has she. In the case of the abomination, it was a lot of detailing to do and I had a better handle on washing (spikes and creases) and small details (eyes, teeth, ipod). On the flip side, she's better at glazing than I am which is pretty important to get smooth skin/clothes gradients (in which case I've asked if she could glaze a few highlights). In each case, we've found what we can do well AND enjoy doing. I would be careful trying to relegate "work" to someone who doesn't enjoy doing it. If your friend is more of the "I would try it but I can't paint" then I would totally go for it. Base coating is the easiest way to get people into miniature painting and it doesn't require that much skill. We have a friend who had never painted minis before but when we invited him to "paint some zombies" he was like sure! It wasn't the prettiest base coating but it was still pretty good considering he also has sight limitations that hinder his ability to do fine detail. We just had to tell him to wet the paint down and he was good to go. I think he did two or three full zombie base coats on his first evening and had a good time doing it. inkblottime fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jun 28, 2016 |
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Jun 28, 2016 06:08
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SRM posted:I so rarely see this guy painted in non-Word Bearers colors, but here's the Chaplain from Betrayal at Calth: Cool and good space mans
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Jun 28, 2016 15:06
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I am Andrew Ryan, and I'm here to ask you a question. Is a man not entitled to the sweat of his brow?   'No!' says the man in Washington, 'It belongs to the poor.'    'No!' says the man in the Vatican, 'It belongs to God.'    'No!' says the man in Moscow, 'It belongs to everyone.'    I rejected those answers; instead, I chose something different. I chose the impossible. I chose... Rapture  (sorry about the cellphone pics)
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Jun 28, 2016 22:55
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Where the eff are these great undersea dudes from?
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Jun 28, 2016 23:45
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inkblottime posted:Just wanted to chime in that that brush cleaner has given me the courage to use my expensive brush on a regular basis. My wife purchased the big tub for around $20 and I scooped some into little jars I also use for washing. Here's my setup: Anyone know where to source Masters Brush Cleaner in the UK? I looked in my local boutique painting shop and it wasn't there.
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Jun 28, 2016 23:58
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Nichol posted:Where the eff are these great undersea dudes from? They're from a German company called Lead Adventure. http://www.lead-adventure.com
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Jun 29, 2016 00:13
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thespaceinvader posted:Anyone know where to source Masters Brush Cleaner in the UK? I looked in my local boutique painting shop and it wasn't there. I just picked it up off Amazon
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Jun 29, 2016 00:14
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| # ? May 16, 2024 17:24 |
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Want! http://www.lead-adventure.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=111
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Jun 29, 2016 01:11
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