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It's usually just the paint over the concrete. But it really doesn't take much to keep the bit from skittering all over the place.
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# ? Jun 29, 2016 22:05 |
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 12:19 |
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I will start the bit where I want it, then if it skates off a little I angle the bit to go back to where I want it. Eventually it digs in in the proper spot.
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# ? Jun 29, 2016 23:11 |
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Safety Dance posted:Good news! Ramsets use gunpowder, not electricity! Yeah, you're using essentially a .22 blank to shoot a nail into concrete.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 01:53 |
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Anyone have any experience or tips/tricks with that chalkboard paint? I'm thinking about painting about 1/3 of a bedroom door and framing it but have never used it before.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 03:13 |
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Tyson Tomko posted:Anyone have any experience or tips/tricks with that chalkboard paint? I'm thinking about painting about 1/3 of a bedroom door and framing it but have never used it before.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 17:34 |
n0tqu1tesane posted:I usually just whack the back of the drill with the bit pressed up against the wall in order to make a divot that the bit tends to stay in as I drill the rest of the hole. Tried this. Yep, abusing the drill bit as a chisel made enough of an indent to guide the drill. Curtain's up! (I still need to shorten the curtain itself, that's for another day.)
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 17:53 |
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Hi everybody! I'm excited because my deadbeat, chain smoking, downstairs neighbors that produce copious amounts of garbage are moving out! This means I get to go into the basement and insulate the ceiling/floor for sound! Here's the details: -We have permission from our landlord to either contract the work or do it ourselves and take the money used out of our rent. -There is literally nothing but drywall and floor joists between our floor and the basement (which is rented as a second unit). -We're looking at either using sound proofing spray foam or sound proofing batts. My GF seems to think that we can just cut holes in the drywall and use the spray insulation between the joists to avoid removing and replacing a bunch of drywall. I want to tear the whole goddamn thing down, put up the batts or spray foam, then put up soundboard (maybe drywall over the soundboard). We're fairly DIY capable, and have access to plenty of people to help us carry out the work, saving money we would otherwise spend on contractors. From my research, it looks like the fiberglass would be a better way to go in terms of sound isolation, and I want the most I can get. We have a "budget" but don't really know what it fully is; the landlord asked us to provide him with quotes then receipts, not actually saying how much was "too much". Any thoughts or suggestions? Something we might be overlooking?
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 19:07 |
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nielsm posted:Tried this. Yep, abusing the drill bit as a chisel made enough of an indent to guide the drill. Curtain's up! (I still need to shorten the curtain itself, that's for another day.) More good news! A masonry bit is already a chisel!
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 21:00 |
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kid sinister posted:Yeah, you're using essentially a .22 blank to shoot a nail into concrete. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N_UuImPL4E
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 21:15 |
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On the topic of drilling into concrete, I need to install a 4x4 post bracket into an existing concrete slab. Do I really need to get a hammer drill for one hole or should I be able to manage it with a masonry bit in my regular drill/impact driver?
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 01:18 |
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Melicious posted:On the topic of drilling into concrete, I need to install a 4x4 post bracket into an existing concrete slab. Do I really need to get a hammer drill for one hole or should I be able to manage it with a masonry bit in my regular drill/impact driver? How deep? How wide? Corded or cordless?
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 02:33 |
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kid sinister posted:How deep? How wide? Corded or cordless? 3/8" wide, 1 1/2-2" deep. Pretty close to the edge of the slab, though, maybe 4 inches away. Cordless.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 03:04 |
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Tyson Tomko posted:Anyone have any experience or tips/tricks with that chalkboard paint? I'm thinking about painting about 1/3 of a bedroom door and framing it but have never used it before. I painted a formerly dead area of my entrance with chalkboard paint and it's worked out great. You really really should install a chalk holder of some kind near the spot for it to get good use. Chalk is... well, chalky which should be read as 'dusty and white/colored'. You'll need to lightly wash your wall occasionally and you cannot press too hard - it's drywall not slate.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 04:23 |
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Melicious posted:3/8" wide, 1 1/2-2" deep. Pretty close to the edge of the slab, though, maybe 4 inches away. Cordless. You'll burn through multiple batteries trying to drill into poured concrete with a regular drill. Go rent a hammer drill or rotary hammer from Home Depot. You'll be done with it in seconds, but you'll save yourself a LOT of aggravation trying to drill it with a regular drill.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 04:41 |
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Pope Mobile posted:Hi everybody! I'm excited because my deadbeat, chain smoking, downstairs neighbors that produce copious amounts of garbage are moving out! This means I get to go into the basement and insulate the ceiling/floor for sound! The easiest way to get decent soundproofing in that assembly is to cut holes to blow in fiberglass or cellulose (doesn't matter which to any meaningful extent), then greenglue a a second layer of drywall onto the existing layer. Seal any openings in the ceiling (electrical boxes from lights or whatever) with acoustic caulk. That should get you pretty good soundproofing from airborne sound, although it won't help a lot for reducing impact noise from you walking on the floor above. You're not going to be able to do much better than that without a whole lot more work.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 15:27 |
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Pope Mobile posted:Hi everybody! I'm excited because my deadbeat, chain smoking, downstairs neighbors that produce copious amounts of garbage are moving out! This means I get to go into the basement and insulate the ceiling/floor for sound! If the ceiling is drywall, I'd look at putting up a second layer of it using green glue. edit: as suggested above. good job reading the whole reply, me!
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 15:46 |
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Interesting. So we'd put up drywall over the one that's already there normally (screws /tape /putty) but also use green glue between the two layers?
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 18:05 |
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Yup.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 18:23 |
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Well I'll look into everything and run it by the landlord for pricing. Someone I was talking two mentioned soundboard, and said we could lay that above the floor and then carpet above that. It'd be less labor intensive, but I'm thinking that would do more to limit our steps than sound between the floors.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 18:53 |
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Yeah that is going to do little to nothing to reduce noise transmission from below.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 20:32 |
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Does resbar help significantly? I'm thinking more like situations where you didn't have existing drywall. My only experience with it was trying to get my drywall screws to bite into it, or missing the rail altogether... a real PITA. Is it worth it?
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 21:05 |
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yippee cahier posted:Does resbar help significantly? I'm thinking more like situations where you didn't have existing drywall. My only experience with it was trying to get my drywall screws to bite into it, or missing the rail altogether... a real PITA. Is it worth it? In my experience it helps significantly. Double rocking the ceiling is good too but those channels really help to minimize vibration (i.e. sound) transfer. You can drop a bunch of insulation between the joists but the sound still travels through the joists themselves. Those rails dampen it a good it. I would do both rails and double rock.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 21:32 |
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Birds. I hate them. They like my house for nests. What can I do? My house has one of those motorized awnings and the bracket that runs parallel to the house siding is where they go, so it's about an 1" between the house and the bracket. I've been taking the nests down but they rebuild it every day. Any tips?
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 02:09 |
SMDFTB posted:Birds. I hate them. They like my house for nests. What can I do? Get a cat. And have all your neighbors also get a cat.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 08:38 |
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nielsm posted:Get a cat. And have all your neighbors also get a cat. We've got two cats but they're both indoor ones
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 11:47 |
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SMDFTB posted:Birds. I hate them. They like my house for nests. What can I do? This may be a silly question but are they migratory birds? If so what you're doing is a federal crime.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 16:17 |
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Steel wool in the spot they try to occupy?
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 16:55 |
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H110Hawk posted:This may be a silly question but are they migratory birds? If so what you're doing is a federal crime. Jesus Christ, they're starlings so I'm not committing a federal offense.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 18:11 |
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Steel wool in the spot they try to occupy? That might be worth a try. I've heard copper scrub pads because they don't rust.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 18:16 |
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SMDFTB posted:Jesus Christ, they're starlings so I'm not committing a federal offense. Ok great now we know. You don't want to find out your neighbor is a bird nerd and reports you to fish and wildlife for loving with the nests.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 19:22 |
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H110Hawk posted:Ok great now we know. You don't want to find out your neighbor is a bird nerd and reports you to fish and wildlife for loving with the nests. So do you have any actual advice?
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 21:54 |
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Fake Owl. I'm not kidding - I had the same problem with the rafters on my deck. When I find a nest, I take it down and replace it with the owl. I now average one nest per season instead of one per week. Bonus points if you spend extra to get the ones with the light up eyes and flappy wings.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 22:02 |
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I was leaning towards and owl or a hawk-seems pretty cheap.
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# ? Jul 2, 2016 22:13 |
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SMDFTB posted:So do you have any actual advice? Wait for the eggs and fry them.
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# ? Jul 3, 2016 01:43 |
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Our house came with a small pond that's part of a really lush backyard and we'd like to revive it. It's an old metal pan that leaks - I'm not exactly sure where yet. It's fairly well embedded in concrete and rock, and it's an odd shape so I'd like to see about just patching it rather than replacing it. Would something like the "As Seen On TV" Flex Seal work well or are there better, non-toxic ways to patch this? Has anyone used the stuff?
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# ? Jul 3, 2016 21:20 |
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porkface posted:Our house came with a small pond that's part of a really lush backyard and we'd like to revive it. Flex seal would probably work, but I can't speak to the toxicity of it though. I'd probably put in a pond liner, myself https://www.pondliner.com/pond-liners
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# ? Jul 4, 2016 02:10 |
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porkface posted:Our house came with a small pond that's part of a really lush backyard and we'd like to revive it. Hey backyard pond buddy. Ours has a plastic liner also, basically just very heavy black plastic sheeting. No leaks that I'm aware of, we just top it off now and then when it gets low from evaporation. Come on down anytime to check it out, you can even have some fish.
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# ? Jul 4, 2016 02:17 |
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CzarChasm posted:Flex seal would probably work, but I can't speak to the toxicity of it though. I cannot speak of its toxicity either. If it were up to me, I would put in a liner also. Basically, you get a big piece of liner fabric, lay it out across the bottom, then figure out how to fold the edges so that they and the bottom both lay flush.
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# ? Jul 4, 2016 02:25 |
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How do you people with ponds handle the inevitable swarm of mosquitoes that will make its home in your water and thus make your life miserable? Just curious.
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# ? Jul 4, 2016 03:54 |
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 12:19 |
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I presume with a few of those mosquito foggers and copious amounts of DEET infused tiki torches.
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# ? Jul 4, 2016 04:47 |