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n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer
It's usually just the paint over the concrete. But it really doesn't take much to keep the bit from skittering all over the place.

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sirr0bin
Aug 16, 2004
damn you! let the rabbits wear glasses!
I will start the bit where I want it, then if it skates off a little I angle the bit to go back to where I want it. Eventually it digs in in the proper spot.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Safety Dance posted:

Good news! Ramsets use gunpowder, not electricity!

Yeah, you're using essentially a .22 blank to shoot a nail into concrete.

Tyson Tomko
May 8, 2005

The Problem Solver.
Anyone have any experience or tips/tricks with that chalkboard paint? I'm thinking about painting about 1/3 of a bedroom door and framing it but have never used it before.

Hazed_blue
May 14, 2002

Tyson Tomko posted:

Anyone have any experience or tips/tricks with that chalkboard paint? I'm thinking about painting about 1/3 of a bedroom door and framing it but have never used it before.
Don't use pre-made chalkboard paint. Stuff's expensive for the little you get out of it, and I've heard mixed opinions of its abilty to work properly. You can mix your own with latex paint and grout; my wife and I did this for a giant outdoor chalkboard and painted it right onto pressboard, and it worked great.

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



n0tqu1tesane posted:

I usually just whack the back of the drill with the bit pressed up against the wall in order to make a divot that the bit tends to stay in as I drill the rest of the hole.

Tried this. Yep, abusing the drill bit as a chisel made enough of an indent to guide the drill. Curtain's up! (I still need to shorten the curtain itself, that's for another day.)

its all nice on rice
Nov 12, 2006

Sweet, Salty Goodness.



Buglord
Hi everybody! I'm excited because my deadbeat, chain smoking, downstairs neighbors that produce copious amounts of garbage are moving out! This means I get to go into the basement and insulate the ceiling/floor for sound!
Here's the details:
-We have permission from our landlord to either contract the work or do it ourselves and take the money used out of our rent.
-There is literally nothing but drywall and floor joists between our floor and the basement (which is rented as a second unit).
-We're looking at either using sound proofing spray foam or sound proofing batts.
My GF seems to think that we can just cut holes in the drywall and use the spray insulation between the joists to avoid removing and replacing a bunch of drywall. I want to tear the whole goddamn thing down, put up the batts or spray foam, then put up soundboard (maybe drywall over the soundboard).
We're fairly DIY capable, and have access to plenty of people to help us carry out the work, saving money we would otherwise spend on contractors.
From my research, it looks like the fiberglass would be a better way to go in terms of sound isolation, and I want the most I can get.
We have a "budget" but don't really know what it fully is; the landlord asked us to provide him with quotes then receipts, not actually saying how much was "too much".
Any thoughts or suggestions? Something we might be overlooking?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

nielsm posted:

Tried this. Yep, abusing the drill bit as a chisel made enough of an indent to guide the drill. Curtain's up! (I still need to shorten the curtain itself, that's for another day.)

More good news! A masonry bit is already a chisel!

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.

kid sinister posted:

Yeah, you're using essentially a .22 blank to shoot a nail into concrete.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N_UuImPL4E

Melicious
Nov 18, 2005
Ugh, stop licking my hand, you horse's ass!
On the topic of drilling into concrete, I need to install a 4x4 post bracket into an existing concrete slab. Do I really need to get a hammer drill for one hole or should I be able to manage it with a masonry bit in my regular drill/impact driver?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Melicious posted:

On the topic of drilling into concrete, I need to install a 4x4 post bracket into an existing concrete slab. Do I really need to get a hammer drill for one hole or should I be able to manage it with a masonry bit in my regular drill/impact driver?

How deep? How wide? Corded or cordless?

Melicious
Nov 18, 2005
Ugh, stop licking my hand, you horse's ass!

kid sinister posted:

How deep? How wide? Corded or cordless?

3/8" wide, 1 1/2-2" deep. Pretty close to the edge of the slab, though, maybe 4 inches away. Cordless.

Thots and Prayers
Jul 13, 2006

A is the for the atrocious abominated acts that YOu committed. A is also for ass-i-nine, eight, seven, and six.

B, b, b - b is for your belligerent, bitchy, bottomless state of affairs, but why?

C is for the cantankerous condition of our character, you have no cut-out.
Grimey Drawer

Tyson Tomko posted:

Anyone have any experience or tips/tricks with that chalkboard paint? I'm thinking about painting about 1/3 of a bedroom door and framing it but have never used it before.

I painted a formerly dead area of my entrance with chalkboard paint and it's worked out great.

You really really should install a chalk holder of some kind near the spot for it to get good use. Chalk is... well, chalky which should be read as 'dusty and white/colored'. You'll need to lightly wash your wall occasionally and you cannot press too hard - it's drywall not slate.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Melicious posted:

3/8" wide, 1 1/2-2" deep. Pretty close to the edge of the slab, though, maybe 4 inches away. Cordless.

You'll burn through multiple batteries trying to drill into poured concrete with a regular drill.

Go rent a hammer drill or rotary hammer from Home Depot. You'll be done with it in seconds, but you'll save yourself a LOT of aggravation trying to drill it with a regular drill.

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius

Pope Mobile posted:

Hi everybody! I'm excited because my deadbeat, chain smoking, downstairs neighbors that produce copious amounts of garbage are moving out! This means I get to go into the basement and insulate the ceiling/floor for sound!
Here's the details:
-We have permission from our landlord to either contract the work or do it ourselves and take the money used out of our rent.
-There is literally nothing but drywall and floor joists between our floor and the basement (which is rented as a second unit).
-We're looking at either using sound proofing spray foam or sound proofing batts.
My GF seems to think that we can just cut holes in the drywall and use the spray insulation between the joists to avoid removing and replacing a bunch of drywall. I want to tear the whole goddamn thing down, put up the batts or spray foam, then put up soundboard (maybe drywall over the soundboard).
We're fairly DIY capable, and have access to plenty of people to help us carry out the work, saving money we would otherwise spend on contractors.
From my research, it looks like the fiberglass would be a better way to go in terms of sound isolation, and I want the most I can get.
We have a "budget" but don't really know what it fully is; the landlord asked us to provide him with quotes then receipts, not actually saying how much was "too much".
Any thoughts or suggestions? Something we might be overlooking?

The easiest way to get decent soundproofing in that assembly is to cut holes to blow in fiberglass or cellulose (doesn't matter which to any meaningful extent), then greenglue a a second layer of drywall onto the existing layer. Seal any openings in the ceiling (electrical boxes from lights or whatever) with acoustic caulk.

That should get you pretty good soundproofing from airborne sound, although it won't help a lot for reducing impact noise from you walking on the floor above. You're not going to be able to do much better than that without a whole lot more work.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Pope Mobile posted:

Hi everybody! I'm excited because my deadbeat, chain smoking, downstairs neighbors that produce copious amounts of garbage are moving out! This means I get to go into the basement and insulate the ceiling/floor for sound!
Here's the details:
-We have permission from our landlord to either contract the work or do it ourselves and take the money used out of our rent.
-There is literally nothing but drywall and floor joists between our floor and the basement (which is rented as a second unit).
-We're looking at either using sound proofing spray foam or sound proofing batts.
My GF seems to think that we can just cut holes in the drywall and use the spray insulation between the joists to avoid removing and replacing a bunch of drywall. I want to tear the whole goddamn thing down, put up the batts or spray foam, then put up soundboard (maybe drywall over the soundboard).
We're fairly DIY capable, and have access to plenty of people to help us carry out the work, saving money we would otherwise spend on contractors.
From my research, it looks like the fiberglass would be a better way to go in terms of sound isolation, and I want the most I can get.
We have a "budget" but don't really know what it fully is; the landlord asked us to provide him with quotes then receipts, not actually saying how much was "too much".
Any thoughts or suggestions? Something we might be overlooking?

If the ceiling is drywall, I'd look at putting up a second layer of it using green glue.


edit: as suggested above. good job reading the whole reply, me!

its all nice on rice
Nov 12, 2006

Sweet, Salty Goodness.



Buglord
Interesting. So we'd put up drywall over the one that's already there normally (screws /tape /putty) but also use green glue between the two layers?

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius
Yup.

its all nice on rice
Nov 12, 2006

Sweet, Salty Goodness.



Buglord
Well I'll look into everything and run it by the landlord for pricing.
Someone I was talking two mentioned soundboard, and said we could lay that above the floor and then carpet above that. It'd be less labor intensive, but I'm thinking that would do more to limit our steps than sound between the floors.

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius
Yeah that is going to do little to nothing to reduce noise transmission from below.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Does resbar help significantly? I'm thinking more like situations where you didn't have existing drywall. My only experience with it was trying to get my drywall screws to bite into it, or missing the rail altogether... a real PITA. Is it worth it?

Flash Gordon Ramsay
Sep 28, 2004

Grimey Drawer

yippee cahier posted:

Does resbar help significantly? I'm thinking more like situations where you didn't have existing drywall. My only experience with it was trying to get my drywall screws to bite into it, or missing the rail altogether... a real PITA. Is it worth it?

In my experience it helps significantly. Double rocking the ceiling is good too but those channels really help to minimize vibration (i.e. sound) transfer. You can drop a bunch of insulation between the joists but the sound still travels through the joists themselves. Those rails dampen it a good it. I would do both rails and double rock.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Birds. I hate them. They like my house for nests. What can I do?

My house has one of those motorized awnings and the bracket that runs parallel to the house siding is where they go, so it's about an 1" between the house and the bracket. I've been taking the nests down but they rebuild it every day.

Any tips?

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



SMDFTB posted:

Birds. I hate them. They like my house for nests. What can I do?

My house has one of those motorized awnings and the bracket that runs parallel to the house siding is where they go, so it's about an 1" between the house and the bracket. I've been taking the nests down but they rebuild it every day.

Any tips?

Get a cat. And have all your neighbors also get a cat.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

nielsm posted:

Get a cat. And have all your neighbors also get a cat.

We've got two cats but they're both indoor ones

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SMDFTB posted:

Birds. I hate them. They like my house for nests. What can I do?

My house has one of those motorized awnings and the bracket that runs parallel to the house siding is where they go, so it's about an 1" between the house and the bracket. I've been taking the nests down but they rebuild it every day.

Any tips?

This may be a silly question but are they migratory birds? If so what you're doing is a federal crime.

Mercury Ballistic
Nov 14, 2005

not gun related
Steel wool in the spot they try to occupy?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

H110Hawk posted:

This may be a silly question but are they migratory birds? If so what you're doing is a federal crime.

Jesus Christ, they're starlings so I'm not committing a federal offense.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Mercury Ballistic posted:

Steel wool in the spot they try to occupy?

That might be worth a try. I've heard copper scrub pads because they don't rust.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SMDFTB posted:

Jesus Christ, they're starlings so I'm not committing a federal offense.

Ok great now we know. You don't want to find out your neighbor is a bird nerd and reports you to fish and wildlife for loving with the nests.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

H110Hawk posted:

Ok great now we know. You don't want to find out your neighbor is a bird nerd and reports you to fish and wildlife for loving with the nests.

So do you have any actual advice?

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro


Fake Owl. I'm not kidding - I had the same problem with the rafters on my deck. When I find a nest, I take it down and replace it with the owl. I now average one nest per season instead of one per week.

Bonus points if you spend extra to get the ones with the light up eyes and flappy wings.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

I was leaning towards and owl or a hawk-seems pretty cheap.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SMDFTB posted:

So do you have any actual advice?

Wait for the eggs and fry them.

porkface
Dec 29, 2000

Our house came with a small pond that's part of a really lush backyard and we'd like to revive it.

It's an old metal pan that leaks - I'm not exactly sure where yet. It's fairly well embedded in concrete and rock, and it's an odd shape so I'd like to see about just patching it rather than replacing it. Would something like the "As Seen On TV" Flex Seal work well or are there better, non-toxic ways to patch this? Has anyone used the stuff?

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

porkface posted:

Our house came with a small pond that's part of a really lush backyard and we'd like to revive it.

It's an old metal pan that leaks - I'm not exactly sure where yet. It's fairly well embedded in concrete and rock, and it's an odd shape so I'd like to see about just patching it rather than replacing it. Would something like the "As Seen On TV" Flex Seal work well or are there better, non-toxic ways to patch this? Has anyone used the stuff?

Flex seal would probably work, but I can't speak to the toxicity of it though.

I'd probably put in a pond liner, myself
https://www.pondliner.com/pond-liners

stubblyhead
Sep 13, 2007

That is treason, Johnny!

Fun Shoe

porkface posted:

Our house came with a small pond that's part of a really lush backyard and we'd like to revive it.

It's an old metal pan that leaks - I'm not exactly sure where yet. It's fairly well embedded in concrete and rock, and it's an odd shape so I'd like to see about just patching it rather than replacing it. Would something like the "As Seen On TV" Flex Seal work well or are there better, non-toxic ways to patch this? Has anyone used the stuff?

Hey backyard pond buddy. Ours has a plastic liner also, basically just very heavy black plastic sheeting. No leaks that I'm aware of, we just top it off now and then when it gets low from evaporation. Come on down anytime to check it out, you can even have some fish.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

CzarChasm posted:

Flex seal would probably work, but I can't speak to the toxicity of it though.

I'd probably put in a pond liner, myself
https://www.pondliner.com/pond-liners

I cannot speak of its toxicity either. If it were up to me, I would put in a liner also. Basically, you get a big piece of liner fabric, lay it out across the bottom, then figure out how to fold the edges so that they and the bottom both lay flush.

couldcareless
Feb 8, 2009

Spheal used Swagger!
How do you people with ponds handle the inevitable swarm of mosquitoes that will make its home in your water and thus make your life miserable? Just curious.

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DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
I presume with a few of those mosquito foggers and copious amounts of DEET infused tiki torches.

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