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Ah, fair enough. It does have interesting anodizing/nitriding properties. It's also super easy to overcook. I saw someone use a MAPP gas torch and sheet of aluminum to make a "painting" using the flow lines before. I think they were going to anodize and buff the high spots to make it stand out.
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Jun 16, 2016 12:22
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Not to forget metal allergies/sensitivities as well. Titanium is body-safe where a lot of other materials aren't.
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Jun 16, 2016 13:28
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Uncle Enzo posted:Not to forget metal allergies/sensitivities as well. Titanium is body-safe where a lot of other materials aren't. And we come full circle to penetration again.
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Jun 16, 2016 14:00
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Croisquessein posted:This might be a weird question but since there's anodizing in the thread title somebody might know (or it might have been mentioned already). I am working on a line of jewelry that involves anodized titanium shapes which I cut from sheets using a regular ol' jeweler's saw. As you know titanium is a bitch to cut, and I've been looking around for a source of pre-cut titanium shapes to use in some of the more simple pieces, such as circles, rectangles, squares, etc. You'd think somebody would make them, but I have had no luck finding anything of that kind. Does anybody here know if such a service is available, or is anybody capable of cutting titanium shapes for a reasonable price? Check here: The Ring Lord. They have mainly maille supplies, but also anodized stuff. See the category I linked, but look through all the others too.
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Jun 16, 2016 14:29
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Random Number posted:And we come full circle to penetration again. Why do people keep bringing penetration up as if it were a bad thing?
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Jun 16, 2016 15:29
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Croisquessein posted:This might be a weird question but since there's anodizing in the thread title somebody might know (or it might have been mentioned already). I am working on a line of jewelry that involves anodized titanium shapes which I cut from sheets using a regular ol' jeweler's saw. As you know titanium is a bitch to cut, and I've been looking around for a source of pre-cut titanium shapes to use in some of the more simple pieces, such as circles, rectangles, squares, etc. You'd think somebody would make them, but I have had no luck finding anything of that kind. Does anybody here know if such a service is available, or is anybody capable of cutting titanium shapes for a reasonable price? Dang, that's nice. You're good with a jeweller's saw. For the small-run simple blanks you're interested in, pancake dies are your friend, assuming you mean typical 20 ga. (around 1mm) and not 2mm:  Titanium is probably near the upper edge of what pancake dies can cut, but if you get good professionally-made tempered tool steel dies you're still supposedly looking at hundreds of working cycles before the edges are too dull to properly shear the sheet. If you want a faster way to cut one-off shapes or detailed templates, or potentially make your own pancake dies, a well-made little scrollsaw that can accept jeweller's sawblades (with a tilting table for making pancake dies properly) might be a smart investment, too, I think micromark sells something like that that'll buzz through typical jeweller's gauges of sheet stock without too much trouble. Also- some words about your anodization process would be rad, if you've got the time; I'm farting around with flame anodization as a byproduct of hotworking titanium but I might wanna get more deliberate and controlled with it in the future. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 15:42
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IIRC you can do the same anodizing trick with niobium (many funky colored metal jewelry pieces are niobium or niobium plated, and then anodized to get the color) but it's cheaper and easier to work with.
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Jun 16, 2016 22:00
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---Keepin the Ti Zone Fresh--- I wanted a stir stick, and also, micro-twisting practice (the stock is squared-up 1/8" CP2 round rod). Started at the bottom, where it's all weird, worked my way up- it gets nicer and more regular as i got my poo poo together. Sanded the high points of the twist to bring some silver highlights out of the dark matte anodization colours in the low areas (kinda overheated it cause I travelled too slow with the torch- hotworked Ti needs a very light touch with the flame to maintain the more brilliant anodization colours, they get obliterated pretty fast at glowing heat), I kind of want to take a decorative pass with the torch to bring the real vivid colours out but only in the bare-silver highlights.
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Jun 16, 2016 22:52
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Random Number posted:Ah, fair enough. It does have interesting anodizing/nitriding properties. It's also super easy to overcook. Don't get me wrong, aluminum anodizing is really beautiful looking and probably more durable as far as wear (titanium anodized surfaces can't be sealed without ruining the look, so they're vulnerable to scratches and abrasion). But it's not the area I'm working in, besides being a very different process it's not really suited to illustration. And it is super involved and dangerous with the chemicals and such, I really don't have the conditions to do stuff like that if I want to. Bloodspike posted:Check here: The Ring Lord. I have checked them out to see if I could get some large sized scales in titanium but I don't think they had them, I'll go through the catalogue again. Ambrose Burnside posted:Dang, that's nice. You're good with a jeweller's saw. Thanks! Luckily saw blades are cheap and it's okay to sacrifice them to titanium, because it eats them up really fast, those and drill bits. quote:For the small-run simple blanks you're interested in, pancake dies are your friend, assuming you mean typical 20 ga. (around 1mm) and not 2mm: Yeah, I meant 1 mm, sorry. I've never used a pancake die, do you need a press for that? quote:If you want a faster way to cut one-off shapes or detailed templates, or potentially make your own pancake dies, a well-made little scrollsaw that can accept jeweller's sawblades (with a tilting table for making pancake dies properly) might be a smart investment, too, I think micromark sells something like that that'll buzz through typical jeweller's gauges of sheet stock without too much trouble. This would be awesome, but I'd worry about it getting too hot. Titanium builds up and keeps heat really bad. Maybe if it had a water jet thing to go with it. I do like using the hand saw, since it lets me do really small detail work. quote:Also- some words about your anodization process would be rad, if you've got the time; I'm farting around with flame anodization as a byproduct of hotworking titanium but I might wanna get more deliberate and controlled with it in the future. Flame anodizing is fun, I haven't done much though. Bill Seeley's video for Rio Grande is a good start on the whole reactive metals thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zdb89lkNXeY You can get a nice anodizer from Rio for $230, but you can get similar results from clipping a bunch of 9 volt batteries together and attaching alligator clip leads:  For my process, I use a lot of the same stuff for cutting and finishing that you'd use for nonferrous metals like copper and silver, and since you can't solder titanium it has to be cold connected. I've adapted some stopout techniques from printmaking like using hard ground and various other resists, experimenting with different electrolytes (epsom salt in water seems to work the best), and I do a lot of surface preparation. You can get this acid from Rio called Multi-Etch as an alternative to hydrofluoric acid, which gives a great matte surface and makes the color come out a lot brighter. Here's a couple of pieces by Edward DeLarge that show what I'm working towards. I just love his style.   And a few more of my pieces:     I like doing stars. kastein posted:IIRC you can do the same anodizing trick with niobium (many funky colored metal jewelry pieces are niobium or niobium plated, and then anodized to get the color) but it's cheaper and easier to work with. Niobium is about the price of silver right now, I think. Ambrose Burnside posted:---Keepin the Ti Zone Fresh--- That would look amazing if you did the full rainbow range and then did the silver highlights, or maybe all in deep blue or purple or something. I've never forged Ti and that looks like it took some effort! Sorry for all the  hope it was helpful, and thanks to everybody for your advice, I've definitely got some leads now.
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Jun 16, 2016 23:12
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Croisquessein posted:
I can see plain Ti scales under Categories » Scalemail Supplies » Scales -Large and Medium and anodized Ti scales under Categories » Scalemail Supplies » Scales - Small and Tiny
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Jun 17, 2016 11:28
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I've got one of these: That's similarly rotten on the bottom, a couple of 1/8-1/4" holes. Can I just fill those in with a fluxcore wire welder, or do I need to cut teensy little patches to weld in?
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Jun 18, 2016 18:06
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:I've got one of these: I had lousy luck filling in holes with my home cheapo wire welder, try that first but maybe braze it second? If not, just bondo it and call it a day. edit: once you're done maybe epoxy the interior bottom to keep the battery acid from rotting it out? Pimblor fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jun 18, 2016 |
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Jun 18, 2016 19:25
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Hu Fa Ted posted:edit: once you're done maybe epoxy the interior bottom to keep the battery acid from rotting it out? Way beyond that point, what do you think made the holes?  Also I'm fixing it so as to put a bunch of LEDs and a tiny modern battery in the head (and then use the former battery compartment as a toolbox/survival/first-aid kit), so battery leakage is no longer a problem. It is pretty raunchy on the inside, though. Any easy way to wire-brush that out? I guess get a little cup wheel for the drill? Or, comedy option, just fill it with epoxy over the crunchies? Pretty sure it's done reacting by now. That would also solve the problem of filling the holes, just put masking tape over 'em when I epoxy it from the inside. But where's the challenge in that?
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Jun 18, 2016 19:46
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Delivery McGee posted:Way beyond that point, what do you think made the holes? Good little project. Might want to get some baking soda and make a paste and let it neutralize just in case. That crunchy stuff may be too far gone, might be worth just running the whole case through a derust, either chemical (evapo rust is a perennial favorite) or electrical (electrolytic derusting is easy). Drill wire cup brushes kinda suck imo. You really need 40k rpm to make a wire cup sing. It's better than nothing though! edit: Don't forget the face shield and the safety squints
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Jun 18, 2016 20:10
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Yep, the welder just made the holes bigger. OTOH, I had to weld something (haven't touched the thing in like 2 years), and on top of the scrap-metal bin were a railroad spike and an 8" square of 3/8" plate.  Gave each edge a whack with the ol' file without a father to get enough shiny bits for the electrodes to connect, and gave it a few passes with the 120V machine at the 15A setting. Not winning any beauty contests (would need a 20A outlet to use the highest power setting for that), but passes the "beat the poo poo out of it with a 4-pound hammer" test, and once I ground the boogers off the seam was nigh-invisible ("a grinder and paint..."), so I guess that means I got decent penetration. Overall, one could do worse than the lil' red Weld-Pak HD. I'm impressed.
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Jun 18, 2016 21:04
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If you've some copper sheet handy you could use it as 'backing', The welds won't stick to it and might let you build up a layer without just punching holes. Or not, dunno but might be worth a shot.
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Jun 18, 2016 22:08
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I do have some half-inch copper pipe I could beat into a sheet of appropriate size, but the holes are on a stamped curve (it's got a rim to it, y'dig?) so  . If I had a fancy TIG machine I'd have a go at it, but since I don't I'm just gonna give up and do the tape and epoxy from the inside thing. Edit: possibly cut the tail off a polyester shirt and make a sort of poor man's fiberglass.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jun 18, 2016 |
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Jun 18, 2016 22:24
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Here's something you hear about a whole lot but very seldom get to see clearly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOTKVLZlM8Q
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Jun 21, 2016 04:03
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I think I can get a hold of a " 28" hydraulic two-way cylinder and 220V power-pack in good working order, on a custom-built cart" for a song this weekend, albeit sight-unseen. Came from a metalworking shop that did bigger steel stuff. The cylinder is apparently unsecured (beyond the hydraulic lines connecting it to the power pack), and the cart is just to facilitate moving it around. One end of the cylinder has a big round hole perpendicular to the cylinder travel, some kind of mounting point, and the other end of the cylinder terminates in a flat face. The cylinder is described as long and relatively narrow, guessing a bore in the neighbourhood of 2". No tooling or anything else accompanies it. What was it likely used for? What approximate pressure is it likely to be able to exert, based on this extremely scant information? I don't have much more to go on, not even if the 28" is the travel or overall cylinder length, but the fact that it's a 220V power-pack and the context it's coming from suggests either fast travel or high pressure to me. I'm perfectly willing to pick this thing up and then stick it in storage for a couple years until I can make better use of it, but if it's exerting less than ~15-20 tons of force it won't be of much use for either forging or die-forming, what I'd be interested in using it for. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jun 22, 2016 |
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Jun 21, 2016 22:23
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Any goons here by chance who've made wootz before?
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Jun 23, 2016 03:50
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I think I can get a hold of a " 28" hydraulic two-way cylinder and 220V power-pack in good working order, on a custom-built cart" for a song this weekend, albeit sight-unseen. Came from a metalworking shop that did bigger steel stuff. The cylinder is apparently unsecured (beyond the hydraulic lines connecting it to the power pack), and the cart is just to facilitate moving it around. One end of the cylinder has a big round hole perpendicular to the cylinder travel, some kind of mounting point, and the other end of the cylinder terminates in a flat face. The cylinder is described as long and relatively narrow, guessing a bore in the neighbourhood of 2". No tooling or anything else accompanies it. Possibly a "jack" for a press or bender. See if you can find the cylinder bore and pack working pressure, this'll give you the working force it's capable of.
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Jun 23, 2016 06:25
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Fututor Magnus posted:Any goons here by chance who've made wootz before? Closest I've ever got is smelting some magnetite. I didn't get much out of it, but I'd like to try again.
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Jun 23, 2016 07:47
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Cakefool posted:Possibly a "jack" for a press or bender. See if you can find the cylinder bore and pack working pressure, this'll give you the working force it's capable of. It could also be a log splitter cylinder and powerpack maybe.
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Jun 23, 2016 13:48
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Alright, I finished my CNC machinist certification and I've been job hunting for about a month and a half now. Still nothing concrete, but it's become abundantly clear that my education was really lacking in the GD&T department. We studied it for all of one week in my quality control class instead of in the blueprint reading class for some loving reason. So, in order to better myself and not gently caress up on a potential job, I'm looking for a GD&T for dummies guide. I have my textbook, and I'm gonna go through that too, but if there are some online resources that aren't really dense that someone knows about, I'd appreciate it. And yes, I am googling as well. Just thought I'd ask here.
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Jun 24, 2016 20:10
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Admiral Bosch posted:Alright, I finished my CNC machinist certification and I've been job hunting for about a month and a half now. Still nothing concrete, but it's become abundantly clear that my education was really lacking in the GD&T department. We studied it for all of one week in my quality control class instead of in the blueprint reading class for some loving reason. So, in order to better myself and not gently caress up on a potential job, I'm looking for a GD&T for dummies guide. I have my textbook, and I'm gonna go through that too, but if there are some online resources that aren't really dense that someone knows about, I'd appreciate it. And yes, I am googling as well. Just thought I'd ask here. For less than $10 you can get this on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-GD-Pocket-Guide-Y14-5-2009/dp/092452023X/ I don't have that exact one, but an older one that CAT put out that's nearly the same. Where are you located at? What sort of shop are you looking to get into?
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Jun 25, 2016 01:12
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Admiral Bosch posted:Alright, I finished my CNC machinist certification and I've been job hunting for about a month and a half now. Still nothing concrete, but it's become abundantly clear that my education was really lacking in the GD&T department. We studied it for all of one week in my quality control class instead of in the blueprint reading class for some loving reason. So, in order to better myself and not gently caress up on a potential job, I'm looking for a GD&T for dummies guide. I have my textbook, and I'm gonna go through that too, but if there are some online resources that aren't really dense that someone knows about, I'd appreciate it. And yes, I am googling as well. Just thought I'd ask here. The not-most recent edition of Fitzpatrick's Machining and CNC Technology had a better explanation of it of than any of the drafting or machining textbooks I was actually assigned, Madsen's Engineering Drawing and Design is really good too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...wing+and+design https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0078298601/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jun 25, 2016 |
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Jun 25, 2016 01:13
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Yooper posted:For less than $10 you can get this on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-GD-Pocket-Guide-Y14-5-2009/dp/092452023X/ I moved to the Boulder area and have interviewed at a few local machine shops and companies. Ideally I'd like to be in a small shop where I can get better at not only the trade, but see how a shop functions overall.
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Jun 25, 2016 02:32
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Admiral Bosch posted:I moved to the Boulder area and have interviewed at a few local machine shops and companies. Ideally I'd like to be in a small shop where I can get better at not only the trade, but see how a shop functions overall. Unfortunately I don't know any shops out that a ways. A lot of Rocky states shops, especially the smaller ones, have been hit hard by the low oil prices. That sweet sweet oil field work took a serious dump. I'd keep knocking on doors, and keep knocking, and if you find a good door just keep returning. We had a great hire who'd come in once a week, check in, not be a nuisance, then take off. Like a year later we hired him.
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Jun 25, 2016 13:24
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Here's something neat I came across, from Diodorus Siculus' histories, book 5: quote:As for their arms, certain of the Celtiberians, carry light shields like those of the Gauls, and certain carry circular wicker shields as large as an aspis, and about their shins and calves they wind greaves made of hair and on their heads they wear bronze helmets adorned with purple crests. The swords they wear are two-edged and wrought of excellent iron, and they also have dirks a span in length which they use in fighting at close quarters. And a peculiar practice is followed by them in the fashioning of their defensive weapons; for they bury plates of iron in the ground and leave them there until in the course of time the rust has eaten out what is weak in the iron and what is left is only the most unyielding, and of this they then fashion excellent swords and such other objects as pertain to war. The weapon which has been fashioned in the manner described cuts through anything which gets in its way, for no shield or helmet or bone can withstand a blow from it, because of the exceptional quality of the iron. What process or reaction is being described here? I was always under the impression that wrought iron has natural rust resistance that steel doesn't, on account of the silica worked into it, and that most impurities or inclusions in bloomery steel would be more resistant to degradation or corrosion than the base iron or steel would be. I wouldn't think that rust resistance would be meaningfully affected by just carbon levels- maybe it selected for coincidental nickel content in alloys, or preferentially rusted iron with high phosophorus and sulphur content? Or is it a form of case-hardening- let some of the surface iron rust out while the carbon hangs around? Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jun 26, 2016 |
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Jun 25, 2016 20:24
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Taking it as face value it sounds almost like they're aging and conditioning the iron like you would an engine block. If they're putting the iron into the ground hot then they could be doing a case hardening process by carburizing the iron, depending on soil content. Re-smelting it sans the garbage pig iron that rusts out would probably be making a steel. It was the middle of the iron age. E: Without knowledge of the soil in the area he saw it done in, we can't say anything conclusively. Lot's of smiths had tricks for making small batch steel in the iron age, this may have just been the One Small Trick The Romans Don't Want Barbarians To Know! Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jun 26, 2016 |
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Jun 26, 2016 05:34
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After 16 years of running cnc machinery at work, we're picking up an old but in good condition Bridgeport next week. Should be fun to play with a manual machine again!
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Jun 26, 2016 23:21
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I have this awful premonition; lying in the hospital bed, the doctors have said it'll not be long now so the grandkids have been brought in to say goodbye before it's too late. I smile and it turns into a wracking cough, hacking and wheezing before I can catch my breath again. Little Daisy takes my hand, her fingers gripping tightly. 'Is there anything You need granddaddy?' I close my eyes, lay back and think of a life well lived and the happy bitter sweet memories of my long dead wife and the joy my family has brought me. Only a single lingering regret remains, only one road untrodden. With a sigh little more than a whisper I slip away with a single word. Bridgeport
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Jun 30, 2016 07:51
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Buy the machine
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Jul 1, 2016 01:55
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I have this awful premonition; lying in the hospital bed, the doctors have said it'll not be long now so the grandkids have been brought in to say goodbye before it's too late. I smile and it turns into a wracking cough, hacking and wheezing before I can catch my breath again. I feel you. First time since high school I get to mill some poo poo. It came today! 
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Jul 1, 2016 21:49
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Just found a place (bead store) 10 minutes from my house that has a metalworking shop in it that they rent for $15/hour! They have torches and a rolling mill and some other stuff. I'm going to go check it out tomorrow, because they also sell some tools that I need to get. Finally I can use the Sterling sheet that I have had for a while but haven't been able to use because it needs to be rolled thinner. They also have a glass shop for rent, but I might as well just quit my job and live in a van if I take up another hobby....
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Jul 4, 2016 02:33
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*puts envelope to head* yeah beadFX is pretty solid if you need wire or simpler jeweller's tools.
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Jul 4, 2016 02:50
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Here's something neat I came across, from Diodorus Siculus' histories, book 5: I'd say there's also a good chance that it's total bullshit. Nobody (in Europe) before the Rennaisance really took seriously the idea of writing current events and knowledge down as an unbiased, verified and fact-checked historically-accurate account that others would judge and criticize based on that accuracy. Herodotus is often regarded as the first (european) historian, and his stuff is a mix of pretty accurate statements about who was living where doing what, mixed right in with total horseshit about giant ants, cyclopes, people living hundreds of years, etc. quote:... to understand what Herodotus is doing in The Histories, we must not impose strict demarcations between the man as mythologist and the man as historian, or between the work as myth and the work as history. As James Romm has written, Herodotus worked under a common ancient Greek cultural assumption that the way events are remembered and retold (e.g. in myths or legends) produces a valid kind of understanding, even when this retelling is not entirely factual.[97] For Herodotus, then, it takes both myth and history to produce truthful understanding. Lots of dudes at the time simply wrote down stories told to them more or less uncritically. So it's possible someone described this rusting-away-the-bad-iron thing to Diodorus Siculus and he wrote it down without any further verification, because it sounded true to him, and that's literally how ancient greco-roman writers believed one arrived at the Truth. e. While googling a bit, I found this excerpt from what looks like a pretty interesting book: Myth, Ritual and Metallurgy in Ancient Greece and Recent Africa. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 06:44
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Ambrose Burnside posted:*puts envelope to head* yeah beadFX is pretty solid if you need wire or simpler jeweller's tools. Yep, that's them. Pliers are always needed in instrument repair. They sell a brand of letter and number metal stamps that I like as well.
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Jul 4, 2016 11:31
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Yooper posted:Unfortunately I don't know any shops out that a ways. A lot of Rocky states shops, especially the smaller ones, have been hit hard by the low oil prices. That sweet sweet oil field work took a serious dump. Whee, got employed at a local machine shop today, they seem to do mostly aerospace, medical and other precision contracts. gently caress an oil contract. Now I just have to make it through the 2 week evaluation period and make them realize how great I am.
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Jul 6, 2016 21:27
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Congratulations and good luck! Aerospace, medical, and precision sounds alot cleaner to me then oil. I like clean... last welding job I left I said if I ever go back it'll be in the food an dairy industry, but your options sound equally as good.
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Jul 6, 2016 23:39
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