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CORN NOG posted:Ideally, I'd like something light and small enough to be comfortable around my neck, but have acceptable enough sound quality for the 10% of the time I need to use the headphones. The Corsair seems like it might do, but the way the headband and mic boom are angled it's hard to get an idea from pictures whether it would work on my neck I'm pretty happy with my Plantronics Audio 995 wireless headset. Good enough quality and comfort and doesn't use BT so doesn't have the potential issues with that. Biggest issues are that it will drain the battery if you don't turn it off and you can use them while charging. But if you teach yourself to put them charging when you stop using them it won't be a problem.
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# ? Jun 16, 2016 18:47 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 17:07 |
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I've been over this on a number of other occasions, but just in case someone miraculously had an idea for what the problem might be, what could be the cause of a ~2Mb/s speed on a 100Mb connection with a network chart that looks like this: I've had this problems across two ISP modems, so I wonder what else it might be. The antenna cable is connected directly from the socket to the modem, and I'm using an ethernet cable to rule out wi-fi.
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# ? Jun 17, 2016 13:45 |
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The line from your house to the nearest ISP box is hosed (or the ISP box itself is)
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# ? Jun 17, 2016 18:11 |
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Can anybody recommend me a good bluetooth dongle for use with a dual shock 4 controller? I just purchased this one from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I'm getting poor signal strength causing the controller to drop out all the time. I'm only sitting about 10 feet away from the dongle, but my computer is behind me so line of sight is blocked by my couch and body. If I move the controller into line of sight the latency drops down to 1-2 ms so I think its just the interference that's causing it to drop out. I also have a logitech bluetooth keyboard and mouse which work great in the same position without and dropping out so apparently they have no interference issues. The alternative to using the dual shock 4 is to just buy the logitech wireless gamepad but I'd rather not have to purchase another controller.
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# ? Jun 20, 2016 02:11 |
Pikey posted:Can anybody recommend me a good bluetooth dongle for use with a dual shock 4 controller? I just purchased this one from amazon, I have this one. Not that it's much help. I'm pretty much line of sight with all the devices I use. One thing I found at first was that my computer case isn't shielded. I hooked up my wireless devices through a hub and USB 2.0 extender and all problems were solved. tuyop fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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# ? Jun 20, 2016 02:49 |
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Pikey posted:Can anybody recommend me a good bluetooth dongle for use with a dual shock 4 controller? I just purchased this one from amazon, Don't bother, just use a cable The ds4 is just bad over bluetooth on windows, its nothing to do with the adapter. I don't think I've ever read about a success story
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# ? Jun 20, 2016 07:14 |
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This might belong in some sort of A/V thread, but I'll try here first: List of HDMI Devices connected to my TV: -Chromecast -Fire TV -Steam Link -PS4 -DVD Player Number of HDMI Ports on my TV: Two I think I found the part I need, which is a Multi Port HDMI splitter but these things can be hundreds of dollars. Surely there is a cheaper solution out there for what is no doubt a super common problem people have?
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# ? Jun 23, 2016 01:19 |
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xcore posted:This might belong in some sort of A/V thread, but I'll try here first: $15 too much? You don't want a splitter but a switch.
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# ? Jun 23, 2016 01:39 |
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And free shipping to Australia? I'll take it! Thanks
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# ? Jun 23, 2016 01:58 |
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How stable are factory overclocked 1080s for compute? I am thinking of picking up a STRYX or FTW for gaming first and compute second. Are these like some overclocked CPUs that are stable enough for games but choke under things like IBT; or should they be perfectly fine for compute as well?
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# ? Jun 23, 2016 04:01 |
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I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold? Also, when I’m getting 30+ errors during my second pass, I reckon I might as well hang up that module at that point, but I’m going to let it finish a second pass for now (given I’m only testing one module at a time). ufarn fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jun 25, 2016 |
# ? Jun 25, 2016 15:33 |
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Hi Looking for some help. My current system is GA-B75M-D3V motherboard I5 3570k cpu 8gb ram 660 ti 1 hdd and 2 sdd Silverstone 450w sfx psu I've just bought a Palit gtx 1070. I installed the new gfx card, and the pic just displays the bios screen and then goes no further. I can't actually get into bios, and it beeps about once every 30 seconds, and then eventually the screen goes off. I put the old 660 back in and everything works fine. So, question is - what is going wrong and how can I fix it? My psu is below the min recommended level (500w) but I think it should be fine and should at least boot and if it was a problem that should come later under stress. The 660ti has the same max power draw and takes 2 6 pin power rather than 1 8 pin. I took the card back to the store today and they tested it and it's not faulty. I can still refund it but want to get it working as I'll surely have the same problem with a different card. Guy in the shop suggested resetting the cmos. I don't really know what that is but will try. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
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# ? Jun 25, 2016 15:48 |
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ufarn posted:I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold? The more passes the better, preferably overnight. If I'm in a hurry I tend to at least do four passes. The acceptable amount of errors for RAM is 0. If a module errors at all, check if it's running at its designed/advertised speeds and voltage. If not set it to those and try again, if so it's time to do the warranty dance.
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# ? Jun 25, 2016 16:44 |
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:Guy in the shop suggested resetting the cmos. I don't really know what that is but will try. Any other suggestions?
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# ? Jun 25, 2016 20:40 |
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ufarn posted:I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold? Like Geemer said, zero is the only number of acceptable Memtest errors. If I don't see any after a few hours I'm pretty happy. I might have run it overnight once when I was particularly worried, but whenever I've had a bad stick of RAM Memtest has flagged it within an hour or two at the most.
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# ? Jun 26, 2016 13:04 |
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I removed the one module - another one appears to have had 1 error, as I left the remainder to run overnight. My display driver keeps crashing lately. Is this RAM-related, or could it be a number of other things? It happened before I upgraded to W10, too, but not as frequently. I've also re-installed my AMD drivers (non-whql-64bit-radeon-software-crimson-16.6.1-win10-win8.1-win7-june2) a billion times now. I can't remove whatever this is for some reason fwiw, though:
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 15:49 |
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If you have faulty hardware you can't reliably say it's not the source of your problem. Replace the RAM and then retest.
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 15:54 |
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FCKGW posted:If you have faulty hardware you can't reliably say it's not the source of your problem. Replace the RAM and then retest. This. You can't diagnose a software problem while you knowingly have a dodgy stick of RAM.
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 16:09 |
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Uhh I think this question might go here. I have a 970 with both DVI output ports going to two monitors, but I have a TV on the other side of the wall that I want to connect my PC to via HDMI. My apartment has a small hole in the wall meant to feed wires through but it seems too easy to just connect HDMI from the PC to the TV, I think that would make the video card try to display on all 3 at once which isn't what I want. Is there a way to get a splitter or a connector (something that won't impact performance) to be able to just press it, walk to the other room, and have it display there? Sorry if this is hard to follow, english is my first language I'm just bad at it
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 20:15 |
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Mortimer posted:Uhh I think this question might go here. You should be able to plug it in, but not swap input on the TV, that would have the same functional effect you're talking about.
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 21:00 |
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Ive seen laptops where you can set like "profiles" esp for projecters etc, is there no desktop equivalent?
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 21:02 |
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Isn't it called screen mirroring? I would think that if it's that it shouldn't impact performance. It's what I do on my pc with my 42 inch TV next to the pc and doesn't seem to impact performance on my old ATI 5770.
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# ? Jun 27, 2016 21:19 |
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Is this bad? It's the CPU VCore plot (from Open Hardware Monitor) of my Gigabyte 770T with an Athlon II X4 640 in it.
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# ? Jun 28, 2016 02:07 |
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domhal posted:Is this bad?
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# ? Jun 28, 2016 03:36 |
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ufarn posted:I removed the one module - another one appears to have had 1 error, as I left the remainder to run overnight.
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# ? Jun 29, 2016 13:40 |
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ufarn posted:Well, I removed another module, and got no memtest errors overnight, and my display driver still keeps crashing. What's the next step in debugging this?
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# ? Jun 29, 2016 18:33 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:Why not buy a desk mic like a Blue Snowball or Yeti? The Snowball is more directional so probably better if you're planning on using speakers, but that's probably going to be an issue even with a headset. What would you recommend? My headset just broke because it slipped off my desk and I'm looking for something new.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 00:03 |
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I will note that the point of a headset is that it only captures your voice, while a desk microphone will capture everything going on around you., as well as your keystrokes which conduct through the desk. In general the Inspect Your Gadgets is where audio questions go.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 00:59 |
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I'm moving in with a friend of mine and he already has router etc setup and doesn't want Ethernet cables around the house. Is there a way for my router to receive an internet connection wirelessly and get full speed so I can connect my desktop and ps4 with Ethernet?
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 01:57 |
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Schroeder91 posted:I'm moving in with a friend of mine and he already has router etc setup and doesn't want Ethernet cables around the house. Is there a way for my router to receive an internet connection wirelessly and get full speed so I can connect my desktop and ps4 with Ethernet? What you're talking about is a wireless bridge--a second router configured to send any requests from its wired ethernet connections to the router providing wireless access and then relay back the answers to its wired connections. I have one upstairs serving a desktop with the primary router and modem downstairs. Full speed depends on a lot of things. I can get 900Mbps wired directly into the primary router downstairs. I can get ~400Mbps wirelessly in the same room as the primary router. The best speedtest I can do from upstairs on the desktop is approximately 180Mbps. So, no, you probably won't get full speed from a Gigabit connection. Two good AC routers forming the wireless bridge should be able to support up to 200Mbps, depending on other device contention.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 02:06 |
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Schroeder91 posted:I'm moving in with a friend of mine and he already has router etc setup and doesn't want Ethernet cables around the house. Is there a way for my router to receive an internet connection wirelessly and get full speed so I can connect my desktop and ps4 with Ethernet? A wireless bridge or powerline ethernet are your options. You can connect a switch to the powerline-ethernet adapter and it will act just like a run of ethernet cable, or you can connect individual devices to it. A pair of good AC wireless routers may have slightly better speed but there is definitely more latency over wireless than via a PLE adapter. Or I guess you could just put wireless adapters on your PS4 and your desktop directly. Same problems with latency though.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 02:43 |
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I hear the ps4 wireless is crap, and I don't have a wireless adapter for the desktop so that's why i was looking at this. These sound exactly what I need though. Our connection is only 150 down so hopefully it won't lose a lot of the speed.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 03:10 |
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Schroeder91 posted:I hear the ps4 wireless is crap, and I don't have a wireless adapter for the desktop so that's why i was looking at this. These sound exactly what I need though. Our connection is only 150 down so hopefully it won't lose a lot of the speed. Might take a gander at this Anandtech article first: http://www.anandtech.com/show/10293/comtrend-pg9172-powerline-adapter-review-ghn-gets-primed-for-retail-push Getting a solid 150MBps isn't too easy over powerline adaptors. Between some plugs they only achieved 40-50 MBps, which may be sufficient for your needs.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 04:37 |
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How much more power to factory overclocked video cards draw at idle? Specifically the ASUS factory overclocked 1080, which I am having real trouble finding power specs for other than "draws up to 300W". Also, any idea how much more this card will draw at load?
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 06:28 |
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Hi, I own a fractal design nano S case, and I have some questions about the cooling. The case came standard with a 140mm fan in the front and a 120mm fan in the back. I'm a bit annoyed with the sound levels it is producing and would like to see if there are steps I can take to reduce it. My cpu tower has 2 fans on it, with the back fan just 2 cm from the exhaust fan. Would it make sense to remove the back fan from the cpu tower? I was thinking about adding another 140mm fan in the front and have both fans turn at low RPM. Does this make sense? Or will I just blow so much air in the case that my exhaust fan can't really remove? Thanks
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 09:37 |
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Mikojan posted:Hi, What motherboard do you have? The fans it includes as far as I can tell are 3-pin, so if they're hooked up to the board (as they should be), you should be able to control them (as long as the header supports voltage control). Controlling them is definitely the correct solution, not just removing a fan that might be useful under load.
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# ? Jun 30, 2016 10:29 |
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HalloKitty posted:What motherboard do you have? The fans it includes as far as I can tell are 3-pin, so if they're hooked up to the board (as they should be), you should be able to control them (as long as the header supports voltage control). I have a itx i170z pro gaming board. But after further inspection it seems I can't even hear my cpu fans running at 100%. The only fan that is really making a noticeable amount of noise is the case intake fan. Lowering it's RPM seems to be not a very good solution as it is a small case so adding another intake fan and having them both run at lower RPM seems the correct way of action? The thing is that the GPU is very large (1070gtx g1 gaming) and dissipates heat in the case itself. The only way I can justify having the GPU fans on a lower rithm is to have the case airflow increase.. Mikojan fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Jun 30, 2016 |
# ? Jun 30, 2016 11:17 |
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Hello, I just upgraded my RAM from 8gb (2x4gb) to 16gb (2x8gb) to provide more life into my Haswell build. I got these exactly Team Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313542 The voltage (2.224v) seems pretty high after checking it post installation. I have XMP turned to get the timings. But it seems like turning on XMP bumped the DRAM voltage. I thought these sticks are only tuned for 1.5 voltage? Is it safe running these sticks with XMP on? Edit: Turning off XMP still sets the voltage to 2.224v. For some reason, my motherboard bios locks me from changing Memory voltage to manual. It's stuck on auto and there's no other option. Rabid Snake fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jul 1, 2016 |
# ? Jul 1, 2016 19:55 |
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Rabid Snake posted:The voltage (2.224v) seems pretty high after checking it post installation. I have XMP turned to get the timings. But it seems like turning on XMP bumped the DRAM voltage. I thought these sticks are only tuned for 1.5 voltage? Is it safe running these sticks with XMP on?
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 21:18 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 17:07 |
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Alereon posted:The tool you're using to see the voltages doesn't support your motherboard so it's just showing uncalibrated sensor values in random positions. You don't need to worry about the memory voltage. Oh thanks for the prompt response! All is good then. I ran Prime 95 for a couple of hours and no crashes so far with the new ram.
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# ? Jul 1, 2016 21:27 |