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Depends on the car, but 99% have no relay for the locks, it's either directly switched or run by a module. It's almost certainly the switch, but it could be a fault with the module. Try unlocking through the external key lock on the passenger door; on my car (Mazda Protege) both that and the interior switch actuate the same pin on the door lock module, which actuates the locks. If her car is similar, and the door cylinder unlocks them, you know the wiring is good all the way through the module and it's the switch. The window is most likely the regulator. You may or may not be able to replace the motor separately, but on most modern cars it's more economical to do the whole regulator.
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Jun 25, 2016 22:57
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Michael Corleone posted:I went to the Yard and took an alloy wheel but it didn't fit Most u-pull lots charge a small fee. Supposedly cuts down on vandalism, theft and tire kickers. I've heard some require you to pay admission with a card so they get your name, but my local place is all cash.
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Jun 25, 2016 23:40
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No returns so I am out 22.50 plus tax, I am going to take it back for the core charge though. Went to a place and they got me a used alloy and tire for 55 out the door. I read all 98's were the same size, should have written down that size. I took it right off the car, weird. Is it standard practice to charge an admission fee to junk yards? I had to pay 2 bux lol.
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Enourmo posted:Get a real long section of wire, use it to hook your multimeter to the battery negative, and test for continuity to your bolt. If that's good, check for voltage to the chassis side of the fuse holder. Everything in my car works except the rear defroster for some reason. The fuse for that is still intact. (Suck a lot actually. If anyone knows what that's about I'd appreciate suggestions lol) I'm not piggybacking off that circuit though. I tried like a dozen 7.5 and 10 amp circuits. I'd know if it was working if the dashcam turned on because I had it plugged in the whole time. I just tried a circuit, turned the car on, and repeated until I ran out of places to try lol. I have no idea what the problem is...
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Jun 26, 2016 00:21
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some texas redneck posted:Sway bar bushings can cause that, so can sway bar end links. That's where I'd start. I've already replaced those with new ones and checked their torque. But I'll check em again when I'm in there checking the torque specs on everything else.
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Jun 26, 2016 04:32
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yamdankee posted:Everything in my car works except the rear defroster for some reason. The fuse for that is still intact. (Suck a lot actually. If anyone knows what that's about I'd appreciate suggestions lol) I'm not piggybacking off that circuit though. I tried like a dozen 7.5 and 10 amp circuits. I'd know if it was working if the dashcam turned on because I had it plugged in the whole time. I just tried a circuit, turned the car on, and repeated until I ran out of places to try lol. I have no idea what the problem is... See if it's receiving power at the edge of the window. No idea on the fuse box/dashcam thing. I'm following along because it's piqued my curiosity.
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Jun 26, 2016 04:54
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Enourmo posted:Depends on the car, but 99% have no relay for the locks, it's either directly switched or run by a module. It's almost certainly the switch, but it could be a fault with the module. Try unlocking through the external key lock on the passenger door; on my car (Mazda Protege) both that and the interior switch actuate the same pin on the door lock module, which actuates the locks. If her car is similar, and the door cylinder unlocks them, you know the wiring is good all the way through the module and it's the switch. Thanks. Should've mentioned it is an 05 Kia Spectra. Same car, different problem. Front tire has a very small screw in it. I was going to plug it but how long is it safe to drive on a plugged tire? It is hold pressure fine right now with the screw in it.
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Jun 26, 2016 05:43
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If you can plug a tire properly, it's fine. As long as it's not up the sidewall or something, obviously. If it's that small, it may just be buried in the rubber.
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Jun 26, 2016 06:05
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Stupid question here. I've been looking at the cheap and nasty frame less windscreen wipers on Aliexpress for my Niva. I'm trying to find a 14" bayonet style one but I have no idea what I'm looking at. Can someone help me / point me in the right direction? I have a theory that lower profile, frame less blades will work better with the low powered wiper motor than the huge universal framed blade assemblies. Plus the blades tend to be pushing mud more than water so cheap blades are a plus.
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Jun 27, 2016 05:11
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Geoj posted:$530/month isn't going to be the result of a few speeding tickets, that's a few DUIs/wreckless operation or a string of at fault accidents territory. Or else you're getting screwed by a perfect storm of bad actuarial statistics for your car (combination of high accident/theft/ticket rates and/or disproportionate number of owners under 25), same for your garage address with your own driving record, credit, age and marital status contributing as well. I'm paying more than that in the same state as him and you know why? A stack of "failure to inspect" tickets and an exhaust ticket. AKA no inspection sticker. That's with 3 cars registered, but the lions share of it is surcharges from this state being retarded about what's surchargeable. Also, insurance procedure is different state to state. I've never been quoted 6 months at a time here, just for the whole year. Somehow despite my financial problems a few years ago being far worse than his, I've never had to pay a whole year of insurance upfront.
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Jun 27, 2016 16:27
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Often there's a discount associated with signing on/paying for a longer term. I've never been required to sign for a year, but it's nice to get a small break for doing so.
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Jun 27, 2016 17:03
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Godholio posted:Often there's a discount associated with signing on/paying for a longer term. I've never been required to sign for a year, but it's nice to get a small break for doing so. Probably because you haven't owed your insurance Co a lot of money for a long time period.. thst happens and they want their money up front and usually tack on some extra $$ for their trouble
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Jun 27, 2016 17:10
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How reputable is Jasper Engines? I've been poking around Craigslist looking at XJs for a friend, and there's one that looks good but has a recent Jasper rebuilt engine swapped in. Other than the obvious (how did you manage to kill an AMC 4.0?), are Jasper rebuilds known for being particularly good or bad? My hunch is to pass, but if everything else looks good, I don't know how much weight I should put into that hunch.
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Jun 28, 2016 12:14
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:
The saying goes: Camber high, caster low, determines which way the vehicle will go! That being said, the difference in caster is not major enough to cause a pull. The camber is, but not much, only a drift. The toe is my concern though- that amount of toe -in is going to be tearing up the tires.
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Jun 28, 2016 18:36
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Raluek posted:How reputable is Jasper Engines? I've been poking around Craigslist looking at XJs for a friend, and there's one that looks good but has a recent Jasper rebuilt engine swapped in. Other than the obvious (how did you manage to kill an AMC 4.0?), are Jasper rebuilds known for being particularly good or bad? My hunch is to pass, but if everything else looks good, I don't know how much weight I should put into that hunch. Depending on what year 4.0 it is, they are starting to get a reputation for breaking pistons, but only after a decade and a half and 6 figures on the clock. Late model XJs and some TJs specifically seem to suffer from this. Theories on why they do it range from an alloy or supplier change on the pistons to crummy machine work on the blocks. I lean toward the former because enough piston slap to crack the skirts off the pistons the way they typically fail would probably be very audible. Jasper's OK, so is golen IIRC. Titan is the scummy company to avoid.
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Jun 28, 2016 19:11
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I sold a car on CL about a month back. The dude just texted me that it was towed and he needs a notarized note from me to get it from the impound since he "hasn't done anything with the title yet" which leads me to believe he's probably been racking up fines or other stupid poo poo that might come back to my name. (he did stick some random plates on the car as he was leaving though so i don't know if they would be for the plates or the VIN. I am assuming he's just been using his old plates on it since you need the title to get temp plates. I wouldn't be surprised if that's why it was towed in the first place. I'm just wondering if I should be worried, what I should do to protect myself, what I should do before I give him this note. I don't want any of this to fall back on me. I did make a lovely bill of sale, so I hope in the long run I am covered, but I really don't want to get stuck dealing with this bullshit. Can I bring the bill of sale somewhere to verify that it was not my car at the time? This guy could have racked up $500 in tickets for all I know.
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Jun 28, 2016 21:03
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You should bill the buyer for the notarized note at $100/hr, payable in advance.
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Jun 28, 2016 21:34
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Does your state have a form the seller sends in when they sell a car? Texas has something similar to protect sellers in situations like this.
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Jun 28, 2016 21:42
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I haven't heard of anything like that but it's possible. If there is one I certainly did not do it.
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Jun 28, 2016 21:57
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NESguerilla posted:I haven't heard of anything like that but it's possible. In Illinois, it's a little slip of paper you detach from the title. You would have noticed.
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Jun 28, 2016 21:58
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The state (or country) you're in matters hugely in this situation.
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Jun 28, 2016 22:27
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kastein posted:Depending on what year 4.0 it is, they are starting to get a reputation for breaking pistons, but only after a decade and a half and 6 figures on the clock. Late model XJs and some TJs specifically seem to suffer from this. Theories on why they do it range from an alloy or supplier change on the pistons to crummy machine work on the blocks. I lean toward the former because enough piston slap to crack the skirts off the pistons the way they typically fail would probably be very audible. Yeah it's a '99, so it might have "late model" issues. I thought those were the good years  It's not that high mileage, ~120k on the chassis. If Jasper is alright, though, I won't rule it out, then.
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Jun 28, 2016 22:28
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Jasper is solid for chevy rebuild engines. Anything american and rwd i'd trust them with. Outside of that is a mystery.
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Jun 29, 2016 02:11
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Not sure if this is the best place for this question. Evo 9, getting stutters/hiccups at peak boost (~29psi, e85). It's not fuel cut, and there is no recorded knock whatsoever when it happens. I tried replacing the plugs with 1 step colder iridium plugs from NGK, properly gapped, no help. Any ideas? Considering replacing plug wires and boots out of desperation.
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Jun 29, 2016 02:56
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I'd undo and redo all your hose clamps. Also change your pcv valve. In the veloster forum a lot of dumb things like that are majority of issues and the engine is similar enough to the Mits turbos.
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Jun 29, 2016 03:27
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ROFLburger posted:Not sure if this is the best place for this question. Evo 9, getting stutters/hiccups at peak boost (~29psi, e85). It's not fuel cut, and there is no recorded knock whatsoever when it happens. I tried replacing the plugs with 1 step colder iridium plugs from NGK, properly gapped, no help. Any ideas? Considering replacing plug wires and boots out of desperation. I'll admit I don't know the first thing about Evos, but I know high boost applications have issues with the spark being able to jump the gap. When you say properly gapped, do you mean to OEM specifications, or accounting for the increased boost? If OEM, try closing the gap up a bit. You may need to look into more powerful coils as well, but that's about the limit of my knowledge on the subject.
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Jun 29, 2016 05:11
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Just a random question I am curious about. I have a '12 Suburban and '15 Mazda 3s. The Mazda has a cabin air filter but the suburban didn't. Send like that would be pretty standard these days. Anyone know of a particular reason why not? Also today I plugged a tire and replaced the valve core in another. Baby steps folks.
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Jun 29, 2016 06:01
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Money. Hell, in 2012 the Jeep Wrangler came with a cabin filter assembly behind the glove box, but Chrysler decided to save a few pennies per vehicle by just not installing the filter itself. In '13 they installed the filter at the factory.
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Jun 29, 2016 15:47
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some texas redneck posted:I'll admit I don't know the first thing about Evos, but I know high boost applications have issues with the spark being able to jump the gap. Thanks! I remember reading about closing the gap as boost is increased, I'm going to try this when I get home
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Jun 29, 2016 18:37
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NESguerilla posted:I haven't heard of anything like that but it's possible. If there is one I certainly did not do it. Yes, in California there's a slip of paper attached to the title you can mail in to inform the DMV of the change in ownership, or you can do it online (my pref). It's literally the first thing I do after watching some stranger drive off in a car still registered in my name, and 99% of the time not yet on the buyers insurance policy. Check to see if your state offers something similar online for next time. I also print a dated copy of the DMV site's confirmation page and put it in my "past vehicles" folder along with old Bill-of-Sales etc. As for what you should do at this point,I would be inclined to ignore him unless you actually start getting tickets to your address, at which point it's time to go to the DMV with any sale paperwork you have. He sounds like an idiot and I don't see how signing anything on his behalf will be too great for you in the long run.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:50
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At most I would give him a signed and dated bill of sale with his name, the VIN, etc on it - dated the day you sold it to him, NOT todays date. Get him to sign it and keep a copy for yourself. If anything it covers your rear end more, since you now have proof you sold it to him then.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:59
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God I wish we had that. Definetly would make selling a car less sketchy. I gave him the letter. I figured writing a letter that said I sold it to him on X date before it was towed couldn't hurt me in any way. Sure enough it was towed because he was just driving around with his old plates he stuck on it. He's a young guy. Hopefully having to pay for a towing and a probably 60 dollar+ Uber to my house was enough of a hassle to actually go get the loving thing registered. In the end I think I have my rear end covered with the BOS, but I'm gonna be pissed if I get any tickets in the mail. kastein posted:At most I would give him a signed and dated bill of sale with his name, the VIN, etc on it - dated the day you sold it to him, NOT todays date. Get him to sign it and keep a copy for yourself. If anything it covers your rear end more, since you now have proof you sold it to him then. I put the date of sale on it. Basically just said "sold him the car/VIN# on this date and release it to him"
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Jun 29, 2016 21:59
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May I pop in with a tire recommendation question? I have a 99 explorer for a winter vehicle in Buffalo, it gets used once every few weeks in the summer as a backup vehicle or to haul stuff, but daily driven once snow comes. Would there be any reason to spend $30 less to get some highway all-seasons over the slightly more expensive all-terrains? I can't really think of any, but I am always open to being more of a tightwad. Cooper Discoverer H/T - $299/4 Cooper Discoverer A/T3 - $331/4
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Jun 30, 2016 17:02
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What would they charge for Goodyear Duratracs? The H/T reviews suggest pretty mediocre snow performance, so I probably wouldn't buy them for a winter vehicle. I'm actually ordering a set of AT/3s for my Wrangler later today...they seem to last longer than Duratracs and review well in most driving conditions. If I were looking for a dedicated winter tire, I'd probably do Duratracs, but I go through a LOT of miles on and off road the rest of the year, too. Are those the prices per tire? That's loving STEEP. Shop around.
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Jun 30, 2016 17:41
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Cage posted:May I pop in with a tire recommendation question? I have a 99 explorer for a winter vehicle in Buffalo, it gets used once every few weeks in the summer as a backup vehicle or to haul stuff, but daily driven once snow comes. Would there be any reason to spend $30 less to get some highway all-seasons over the slightly more expensive all-terrains? I can't really think of any, but I am always open to being more of a tightwad. Why aren't you putting snow tires on it?
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Jun 30, 2016 17:42
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Motronic posted:Why aren't you putting snow tires on it? If this is a snow vehicle put snow tires on it, they shoudn't be much more or any more expensive than regular tires and will perform way better in the snow/ice times. As a fellow Buffalonian I'll tell you if you are doing local do not go to mavis on sheridan in amherst, my experience with them was poo poo. Dunn is usually pretty good, also generally any independent shop that will mount em for 25 or under.
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Jun 30, 2016 17:46
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Godholio posted:Are those the prices per tire? That's loving STEEP. Shop around. Motronic posted:Why aren't you putting snow tires on it? tater_salad posted:As a fellow Buffalonian I'll tell you if you are doing local do not go to mavis on sheridan in amherst, my experience with them was poo poo. Dunn is usually pretty good, also generally any independent shop that will mount em for 25 or under. 
Cage fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 17:52
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Derp
Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 18:42
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Cage, I would also go with snow tires. Firestone Winterforces are cheap as loving dirt and have a fairly open allterrain-like tread, and I know they come in a size you can use on that thing. I run them on literally everything we own in the winter, preferably studded though some people don't like sounding like a TIE fighter on the highway. They do alright in summer/fall too. My first set for my XJ I bought in like September because my old tires were absolutely spanked, I couldn't afford two sets of tires at the time, and winter was approaching in a few months. I drove like an rear end in a top hat on them and they still lasted basically a full year, commuting 36k/yr and driving a lot more besides that.
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Jun 30, 2016 19:04
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The closest winterforce they have is a 225/60r16 and my stock size is 255/70r16 and Im currently running 235/70/16 and they're already undersized as it is, plus since discount tire doesn't even carry them I'd have to go with tirerack and it would cost $460 shipped. All of the Discoverer A/T reviews that mention snow are positive, and $130 cheaper per four.  gooninawell.txt edit: Bonus picture: a ford explorer with all terrain tires 
Cage fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 19:37
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Its summer though so what's the rush? Could you get your local store to order them? It seems to me that winter tires are the logical choice for a mostly winter vehicle. I also don't really believe in going for the cheapest tires that work. Getting the right tires for the job is the right thing to do. Especially since you could save for them between now and winter.
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Jun 30, 2016 19:45
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