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SCA Enthusiast posted:Its summer though so what's the rush? Could you get your local store to order them? It seems to me that winter tires are the logical choice for a mostly winter vehicle. When I crash my truck I promise Ill post pictures so you can all laugh at me.
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Jun 30, 2016 19:47
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Floridian here, but the advice I always see on this topic is that you want narrower tires for winter since it helps cut through the snow layer to the pavement below*. If anything get a set of cheap steelies that are narrow enough to match the tire section, that way you can mount the tires on those once and just swap the rims out yourself with the seasons. *unless you're going for giant floatation tires for driving on top of yards-deep snowpack, which is a bit beyond your use case I think.
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Jun 30, 2016 19:49
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Enourmo posted:*unless you're going for giant floatation tires for driving on top of yards-deep snowpack, which is a bit beyond your use case I think. 
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Jun 30, 2016 19:52
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Cage posted:Thats for all 4 homie, they have some good sales/rebates going on. Yeah $80 apiece is slightly more than half price. My AT3s are going to cost about $800 out the door.
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Jun 30, 2016 20:24
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My sister has a Nissan Rogue, I think it's a 2012. The transmission went out (4 years??? wtf??) and they fixed it under warranty. No cost to her at all. That's all great. The new warranty on the transmission is only 12 months or 12,000 miles. This seems really short to me. ""Every Nissan is backed by a 36-month/36,000-mile limited vehicle coverage and a 5-year/60,000-mile limited powertrain coverage."" So the warranty on the rebuilt, (I assume they rebuilt it, and it's not a new tranny), is just what's left on the original warranty? Does this sound typical?
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Jun 30, 2016 20:48
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generally with a warranty replacement hey'll do a split of either their standard repair part warranty, or the remainder of the original warranty.
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Jun 30, 2016 20:55
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tater_salad posted:generally with a warranty replacement hey'll do a split of either their standard repair part warranty, or the remainder of the original warranty. Meaning if there is 1 year remaining and the normal repair part warranty is 3 years... they'd give 2 years warranty? Or did I get that totally wrong? Really I just want to make sure my sister isn't getting screwed over too badly... this happens often and then she calls me afterward to make sure she did the right thing.
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Jun 30, 2016 21:06
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So if standard part warranty is 1 year and you have a 5 year powertrain warranty. It breaks at 4.5 years you get 1 year instead of .5 If it breaks in 2 years you still get your 3 remaining years.
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Jun 30, 2016 23:48
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I'm sitting in my dead car. The starter won't turn on, so I went under the car (with the key in "run" mode ) and tried to jump the starter. The starter worked but the engine didn't crank. Also I think I heard the gear hit the flywheel. Should I try again or is this just not going to work. Thanks guys
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Jul 1, 2016 03:33
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bikesonyx posted:I'm sitting in my dead car. The starter won't turn on, so I went under the car (with the key in "run" mode ) and tried to jump the starter. The starter worked but the engine didn't crank. Also I think I heard the gear hit the flywheel. Should I try again or is this just not going to work. You may have just jumped the motor, there's a solenoid that engages the motor and flywheel, then closes the motor circuit, in normal operation. It sounds like the solenoid may be what has failed, or that the battery can't get enough current to push the solenoid all the way. Have you tried a jump start?
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Jul 1, 2016 03:47
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I have a question about new car pricing. My wife has been looking at getting a new Nissan Altima. She found a dealership with Internet prices that are about $2500 less than the next closest dealership internet price. I checked the dealership listings, and it isn't just a single vehicle in that trim level that is at that price, they all are. We are talking $17.3k vs $19.8k for vehicles that sticker at about $26k. Is there anything I need to watch out for? I am used to most dealerships in an area being within $500 on their pricing, so this has me a little nervous. Is there any hope of getting a decent value on a trade in with the low Internet price?
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Jul 1, 2016 04:01
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bikesonyx posted:I'm sitting in my dead car. The starter won't turn on, so I went under the car (with the key in "run" mode ) and tried to jump the starter. The starter worked but the engine didn't crank. Also I think I heard the gear hit the flywheel. Should I try again or is this just not going to work. This is stupid, but make sure it's in park if it's an automatic. I've spent longer than I'd like to admit before trying to figure out why my poo poo wouldn't crank only to realize I had left it in drive, but had set the parking brake.
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Jul 1, 2016 04:14
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Orvin posted:I have a question about new car pricing. My wife has been looking at getting a new Nissan Altima. She found a dealership with Internet prices that are about $2500 less than the next closest dealership internet price. I checked the dealership listings, and it isn't just a single vehicle in that trim level that is at that price, they all are. We are talking $17.3k vs $19.8k for vehicles that sticker at about $26k. They'll likely be trying to make it up in various "dealer services and fees". The low price gets you in through the door, but you still wind up paying the same amount. I'd honestly avoid the dealership if they're trying tactics like that before you even enter the door.
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Jul 1, 2016 06:53
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Elmnt80 posted:They'll likely be trying to make it up in various "dealer services and fees". The low price gets you in through the door, but you still wind up paying the same amount. I'd honestly avoid the dealership if they're trying tactics like that before you even enter the door. Okay, gotcha. I thought it might be something like that. I think my wife is still going to want to go look at the car and talk numbers, but she is looking for a low price on the car. It shouldn't take much to get her to walk away from the dealership. If nothing else, this gets her to clean out her car which is a total mess.
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Jul 1, 2016 09:45
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bikesonyx posted:I'm sitting in my dead car. The starter won't turn on, so I went under the car (with the key in "run" mode ) and tried to jump the starter. The starter worked but the engine didn't crank. Also I think I heard the gear hit the flywheel. Should I try again or is this just not going to work. Get a wrench or a hammer and start smacking poo poo. Smack the starter, if you can find it, smack the solenoid, maybe even give the transmission a good one for luck. Crank it again and see if that helped.
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Jul 1, 2016 14:25
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When you smack the starter, don't hit it hard enough to crack the magnets in it because then it really won't start. Don't ask how I learned this...
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Jul 1, 2016 14:36
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Raluek posted:This is stupid, but make sure it's in park if it's an automatic. I've spent longer than I'd like to admit before trying to figure out why my poo poo wouldn't crank only to realize I had left it in drive, but had set the parking brake. I once had an ex call and cry on the phone for 20 minutes about her car. When she calmed down enough I asked her the same question....needless to say she was at my house ten minutes later to thank me. When I first got my 81 gutless(cutlass) the shifter would sometimes look like it was in park but be in reverse. Which lead to me doing bad things to the old girl.
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Jul 1, 2016 14:48
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kastein posted:When you smack the starter, don't hit it hard enough to crack the magnets in it because then it really won't start. Don't ask how I learned this... LOL yeah heed this advice.
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Jul 1, 2016 15:12
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So speaking of starting. Theres a known issue with 2003 Chevy Malibus. Sometimes the anti theft system goes off even though im using my key. This leads to me sitting around for 10 minutes with my key in the on position looking like an rear end in a top hat if im at a petrol pump. Originally i didnt mind because it was rare, but it seems to be more common now and its a pain in the rear end. Any ideas on if i could fix it, if a mechanic could, or if i have to go to a dealership? I moved yesterday and lost a half hour to this. I also know 2003s have ignition issues, but i keep my key on a carabiner and take it off to drive.
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Jul 1, 2016 15:31
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A question about flushing the coolant in a 2007 Hyundai Elantra + 2007 Toyota Corolla. Is it really necessary to use a radiator flush cleaner? Because my owner's manual recommends using regular water through garden hose, but most videos online suggest distilled water + some sort of coolant flushing fluid. I'm more inclined to believe my owner's manual.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Jul 1, 2016 |
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Jul 1, 2016 16:34
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Either way is fine. The cleaner can help break down deposits that may have accumulated, but it's not strictly necessary. Hose water can leave deposits if you're using it to fill the system, but in a flush it's not a big deal. You're probably not leaving enough hose water in the system to cause any problems, but when you're done you want to fill it with distilled water (and coolant, obviously).
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Jul 1, 2016 17:13
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Get a wrench or a hammer and start smacking poo poo. Haven't seen it mentioned yet but if this works and the engine turns over after hitting the starter it isn't fixed, it just means the starter is nearly dead. It might work a few times after smacking it but you'll just end up in the same situation again eventually.
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Jul 1, 2016 17:54
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Godholio posted:Either way is fine. The cleaner can help break down deposits that may have accumulated, but it's not strictly necessary. Hose water can leave deposits if you're using it to fill the system, but in a flush it's not a big deal. You're probably not leaving enough hose water in the system to cause any problems, but when you're done you want to fill it with distilled water (and coolant, obviously). Gotcha, thanks! I'll just skip out on the radiator flush fluid, then.
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Jul 1, 2016 17:58
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CA goon here. I got a speeding ticket a while ago, did online traffic school two weeks ago, and I am now waiting for the traffic school to submit the info to the court. The court web page still shows no record of my traffic school completion. The thing is that the ticket used the wrong spelling of my name, while I used the correct spelling when I did traffic school. I may have also missed the two leading characters on the ticket docket number. I've emailed the traffic school but I haven't heard back from them. Should I bother bugging the court with this, or is the traffic school the right place to rectify this issue? I still have ~3 weeks to fix this.
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Jul 1, 2016 20:16
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IANAL but if the error is with the court you need to fix it with them.
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Jul 1, 2016 20:47
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Enourmo posted:IANAL but if the error is with the court you need to fix it with them. Alright, I'll give them a call.
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Jul 1, 2016 21:44
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Raluek posted:This is stupid, but make sure it's in park if it's an automatic. I've spent longer than I'd like to admit before trying to figure out why my poo poo wouldn't crank only to realize I had left it in drive, but had set the parking brake. I am very happy you are alive  GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Get a wrench or a hammer and start smacking poo poo. kastein posted:When you smack the starter, don't hit it hard enough to crack the magnets in it because then it really won't start. Don't ask how I learned this... hahaha, that's what I think I did to the old starter. What I don't get is why the planetary gear hit the flywheel instead of grabbing the teeth. Do we know how bad this is for the vehicle? Nasgate posted:So speaking of starting. Theres a known issue with 2003 Chevy Malibus. Sometimes the anti theft system goes off even though im using my key. This leads to me sitting around for 10 minutes with my key in the on position looking like an rear end in a top hat if im at a petrol pump. I love sitting at the gas station! I called my mechanic and he told me it was a computer issue and to call the dealer, I called the original dealer and he said that it was probably the key, and the internet says its the lock cylinder. Have you tried this: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsS-swJGFJM
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Jul 1, 2016 22:43
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My wife has a 2006 awd v8 dodge magnum. She told me that the brakes weren't feeling normal so I decided to check them and bleed them. The pads and rotors all feel normal. I started to bleed them. When I got halfway through the third wheel the pedal totally lost all pressure. No matter how much I pump it it doesn't get any pressure. I can't see any leaks anywhere. I don't know too much about brakes, is this a master cylinder problem or could it be something else? I was looking at parts at autozone and saw that there are two different master cylinders. One with a brake assist and one without. How do I know which one I need?
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Jul 1, 2016 23:16
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There's fluid in the reservoir, right? You kept it constantly topped up while bleeding, right?
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Jul 1, 2016 23:54
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Yes
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Jul 1, 2016 23:59
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General question: what is the consensus on those A/C re-charger kits they sell at autoparts stores? My car's A/C sucks and if these things actually work, I'd welcome a cheap fix.
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Jul 2, 2016 03:50
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spregalia posted:General question: what is the consensus on those A/C re-charger kits they sell at autoparts stores? My car's A/C sucks and if these things actually work, I'd welcome a cheap fix. I wouldn't trust them. A/C is complicated, and many shops don't even know how to diagnose and repair it correctly. Rarely is it as simple as adding a little extra refrigerant. However, if you want to do it right, we have an A/C thread with tons of information: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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Jul 2, 2016 03:54
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Raluek posted:I wouldn't trust them. A/C is complicated, and many shops don't even know how to diagnose and repair it correctly. Rarely is it as simple as adding a little extra refrigerant. However, if you want to do it right, we have an A/C thread with tons of information: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944 Thanks, I'll check it out. I suspected the recharge cans were likely snake oil.
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Jul 2, 2016 03:57
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My ford ranger leaks out a can of freon a year. $6 freon can, $3 hose, and kill the environment for future generations or spend $1500 paying someone to replace all the fitting gaskets for a car worth $1600.
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Jul 2, 2016 03:58
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Nasgate posted:So speaking of starting. Theres a known issue with 2003 Chevy Malibus. Sometimes the anti theft system goes off even though im using my key. This leads to me sitting around for 10 minutes with my key in the on position looking like an rear end in a top hat if im at a petrol pump. Replace the ignition switch. There's a secondary switch at the far back of the switch, if it doesn't make contact then the security gets pissed off and you have to wait for 10 minutes. It's a common issue on GMs, mainly because they switched to running 5V through the switch - when it gets old and dirty, 5V isn't enough to arc through the way 12V could. Alternatively, if you haven't had the recall done yet, get it done - part of the recall is replacing the switch. Free! Also, anytime the battery is disconnected or runs down, until you get it fixed, you'll have to wait 30+ minutes before you'll be able to start it once it has a working battery again.
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Jul 2, 2016 04:34
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quick question: we're thinking of trading our Forester in for a newer Fiesta. Looking at the market, it would have to be a '11-'13, with the 1.6 Duratec. Ecoboosts and STs are out of the budget. How garbage is that generation body/engine?
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Jul 2, 2016 04:38
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spregalia posted:Thanks, I'll check it out. I suspected the recharge cans were likely snake oil. To clarify: if your ac is otherwise perfectly fine, and just needs to be topped up on refrigerant, those kits will perform that function well enough to make it blow cold again. However, that's a big "if", and they won't do it as well as a professional recharge job.
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Jul 2, 2016 05:07
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Linedance posted:quick question: we're thinking of trading our Forester in for a newer Fiesta. Looking at the market, it would have to be a '11-'13, with the 1.6 Duratec. Ecoboosts and STs are out of the budget. How garbage is that generation body/engine? It's a solid small car. If I'm not mistaken that 1.6 is the same engine out of the ST in non-turbo form. I drove one eons ago before they were actually released in the US, and while it's not exactly a sports car it gets out of its own way pretty well. IIRC the main issues with cars from those years were with SYNC/myford touch (the infotainment system) and rough shifting in the DCT, which is under recall. Get a manual (3 pedals) and you should be in good shape. They're fun as hell to toss around, too. E: I'd say just about anything built since the start of this decade just can't meet the definition of "bad car" anymore, besides maybe any Mitsubishi that's not an Evo.
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Jul 2, 2016 05:57
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Having owned a ford DCT for the last 3 years, don't buy one.
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Jul 2, 2016 06:02
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spregalia posted:Thanks, I'll check it out. I suspected the recharge cans were likely snake oil. They generally work, but will leave your system with an unknown amount of oil and possibly leak sealer and gases that make your ac blow colder but now you can't follow the temperature/pressure graph for a known refrigerant. Read the thread, for more details.
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Jul 2, 2016 12:32
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