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bikesonyx posted:I love sitting at the gas station! I called my mechanic and he told me it was a computer issue and to call the dealer, I called the original dealer and he said that it was probably the key, and the internet says its the lock cylinder. Have you tried this: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsS-swJGFJM Yeah, but thats not a permanent solution is my issue. The first related video seems to have a couple other solutions i can try before doing the fourth one. So thanks for the help! https://youtu.be/rrRbPdPlecg
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Jul 2, 2016 15:16
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Linedance posted:quick question: we're thinking of trading our Forester in for a newer Fiesta. Looking at the market, it would have to be a '11-'13, with the 1.6 Duratec. Ecoboosts and STs are out of the budget. How garbage is that generation body/engine? I would look at the Mazda 2. Their value is dead but a little better car all around imo. I've seen a few with 40k miles or less for $6k
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Jul 2, 2016 15:39
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EightBit posted:They generally work, but will leave your system with an unknown amount of oil and possibly leak sealer and gases that make your ac blow colder but now you can't follow the temperature/pressure graph for a known refrigerant. Read the thread, for more details. I plan on selling/trading in about 9 months. That said, it doesn't seem like I'd be the one to bear the brunt of the negatives.
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Jul 2, 2016 16:23
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Nasgate posted:Yeah, but thats not a permanent solution is my issue. The first related video seems to have a couple other solutions i can try before doing the fourth one. So thanks for the help! http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/ This is a really good article on your model. Personally I wouldn't have used that connector block. If you have a hobby shop around you can get resistors, and a circuit board, and heat tube. 
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Jul 2, 2016 17:04
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bikesonyx posted:http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/ Thank you! Hopefully the door trick works until i have the time to do this.
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Jul 2, 2016 18:17
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A stupid question about my '09 Hyundai Elantra GLS (5 speed manual transmission). I'm replacing the gear fluid, as shown in this Youtube video. I'm not quite sure which bolt I need to remove to empty and refill the fluid. Is it A, or B? I thought it was A, but the bolt is on there really tight and I wanted to be 100% sure before I pull out the cheater bar. Hopefully the photo's orientation makes sense. The video indicates that a 17mm socket is needed, and both A + B are 17mm. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 19:52
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Probably neither those look like bolts attaching the transmission and engine, maybe that bolt just under a facing the camera? Id watch a few more videos and look at the location.
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Jul 2, 2016 19:59
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I just bought an '86 Scirocco (mkII) 8v and one of the first things I am hoping to solve is that the heater is stuck ON. The temperature selector lever will not move to cold. I've taken the console and underside of the dash apart and it appears to me that the temperature lever pulls a cable that runs forward through the firewall on the driver's side. I believe the point of resistance is this cable or whatever it is attached to in the engine compartment. Anybody know what this cable attaches to? A mixing valve? To know for sure what it is named will help. I've ordered a shop manual but it hasn't arrived yet. Any tips appreciated.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:15
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tater_salad posted:Probably neither those look like bolts attaching the transmission and engine, maybe that bolt just under a facing the camera? Id watch a few more videos and look at the location. Here's a top view from the opened hood. I thought that the bolt sticking out was the right one, but it turns out that it's the same 'A' as in the previous image.   EDIT: If this service manual is accurate, it looks like 'A' is the fill plug, and 'B' is the drain plug. I hope that's accurate. Because I'm going to do it. If I come back to this thread freaking out, then... you know how that went. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 20:16
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That view seems better and yeah those are probably the right ones.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:37
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melon cat posted:And that's one of the main issues- Hyundai's DIY community is pretty terrible (at least compared to when I was a Honda owner). That one video I linked is the only one that seems to show how to remove gear oil from a manual transmission, and even that one is for an older make. And of course, my owner's manual says nothing about replacing manual transmission fluid- it only talks about ATF. Here's a good thread with pictures highlighted further down. http://www.hyundai-forums.com/mc-2006-2011-accent/116243-2010-manual-trans-fluid-change-questions-2.html
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Jul 2, 2016 20:45
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melon cat posted:And that's one of the main issues- Hyundai's DIY community is pretty terrible (at least compared to when I was a Honda owner). That one video I linked is the only one that seems to show how to remove gear oil from a manual transmission, and even that one is for an older make. And of course, my owner's manual says nothing about replacing manual transmission fluid- it only talks about ATF. And also a lesson that sucks learning the hard way. Make sure the fill plug opens before opening the drain plug.
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Jul 2, 2016 21:19
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Enourmo posted:It's a solid small car. If I'm not mistaken that 1.6 is the same engine out of the ST in non-turbo form. I drove one eons ago before they were actually released in the US, and while it's not exactly a sports car it gets out of its own way pretty well. Thanks for the input. I had an Edge rental a while back that had Sync - it was weird, like starting to play whatever you were last listening to over bluetooth at the last volume you were listening to it, completely unbidden, but it wasn't awful from what I remember. I'm only looking at manual hatchbacks, so DCT issues aren't a concern. Christobevii3 posted:I would look at the Mazda 2. Their value is dead but a little better car all around imo. I've seen a few with 40k miles or less for $6k I don't think they sold any manuals outside Quebec up here, it seems, and buying a used car from Quebec can be sketchy - or adds a layer of sketchiness to the transaction at least. The prices are roughly the same as Fiestas anyway.
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Jul 2, 2016 23:05
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Number 1 Sexy Dad posted:I just bought an '86 Scirocco (mkII) 8v and one of the first things I am hoping to solve is that the heater is stuck ON. The temperature selector lever will not move to cold. The heater control valve is located between the firewall and the cyinder head water outlet on the right of the head. You'll find it just below the intake tube and ignition coil. These usually fail - and they let coolant flow even when the valve is shut all the way. A new one is like $10! The heater hose that the valve attaches to - we call it the peace pipe - it blows up a lot - so replace that too. It makes a 90 degree turn to go into the cylinder head, and is larger on that end, so it's hard to just find at the local auto parts stores.
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Jul 3, 2016 00:34
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0toShifty posted:The heater control valve is located between the firewall and the cyinder head water outlet on the right of the head. You'll find it just below the intake tube and ignition coil. Thanks a bunch! Parts ordered. You're the man. Expect lots of PMs, haha.
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Jul 3, 2016 01:00
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melon cat posted:A stupid question about my '09 Hyundai Elantra GLS (5 speed manual transmission). I'm replacing the gear fluid, as shown in this Youtube video. I'm not quite sure which bolt I need to remove to empty and refill the fluid. 1. Open A 2. Open B 3. Close B when the runny stuff stops coming out 4. FIll through A until it starts coming back out at you 5. Close A
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Jul 3, 2016 05:52
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I'm looking at new wheels for my BRZ so I can run a little bit wider tires (225 or 235). I would also like to get the wheels/tires a little more flush with the body. I don't want to get spacers since they're expensive and I've heard they gently caress with wheel bearings a lot too. Should I be looking at a different offset for the new wheels to get the same result?
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Jul 3, 2016 20:49
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Yep.
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Jul 3, 2016 21:45
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SouthsideSaint posted:And also a lesson that sucks learning the hard way. Make sure the fill plug opens before opening the drain plug. Haha, I allllllllmost did similar. Fill plug wouldn't loosen though so after emptying the transmission fluid out I had to basically take the shifter out and pour it into the top of the gearbox. Annoying but not too much trouble to do.
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Jul 4, 2016 12:53
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I have a flat tire that's got more than half of it's tread life still. The tire was driven less than a mile on neighborhood streets between when it was parked and it looked properly inflated (it's the front left and I look at it before getting in the car) and when I stopped because it was shuddering. My mechanic took it off to plug it, but found that there's about a 1" slice in the treads that is roughly parallel to the rolling direction of the tire. He marked where the damage is and where the valve stem was so the wheel wouldn't need to be rebalanced, but thought fixing the tire itself was beyond his tools/experience. Looked on youtube and there seem to be [url="youtu.be/hcAP_phE_cU"some sort of semi-permanent patches still made. I've called around to a few chain tire shops and they don't want to do it. My car (VW Passat) has all-wheel drive and you're supposed to replace at least two tires at a time, and I'd rather not have to buy two tires if I don't have to since none of them are close to the wear indicators. Is patching something I can get done at some independent place — even if it's just a couple dudes and a "llantas usadas!" sign? Something I can do myself, even? Or is this tire a lost cause?
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Jul 4, 2016 16:49
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bennyfactor posted:I have a flat tire that's got more than half of it's tread life still. The tire was driven less than a mile on neighborhood streets between when it was parked and it looked properly inflated (it's the front left and I look at it before getting in the car) and when I stopped because it was shuddering. My mechanic took it off to plug it, but found that there's about a 1" slice in the treads that is roughly parallel to the rolling direction of the tire. He marked where the damage is and where the valve stem was so the wheel wouldn't need to be rebalanced, but thought fixing the tire itself was beyond his tools/experience. Even finding someone to plug a simple pierce puncture with a plug is hard enough, because of the risks and liability of the tire fails. An inch long cut? That tire is hosed. Plugs are one thing, no way I would trust any method for repairing an actual cut.
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Jul 4, 2016 17:03
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Linedance posted:Even finding someone to plug a simple pierce puncture with a plug is hard enough, because of the risks and liability of the tire fails. An inch long cut? That tire is hosed. Plugs are one thing, no way I would trust any method for repairing an actual cut.
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Jul 4, 2016 19:38
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bennyfactor posted:I have a flat tire that's got more than half of it's tread life still. The tire was driven less than a mile on neighborhood streets between when it was parked and it looked properly inflated (it's the front left and I look at it before getting in the car) and when I stopped because it was shuddering. My mechanic took it off to plug it, but found that there's about a 1" slice in the treads that is roughly parallel to the rolling direction of the tire. He marked where the damage is and where the valve stem was so the wheel wouldn't need to be rebalanced, but thought fixing the tire itself was beyond his tools/experience. I have had good luck with customer service at Tire Discounters and have gotten patches walking in at NTB. If your tires are in great shape and you live in an area where business is booming, maybe they're less likely to help. Did they refuse to do the work because the tire is hosed or because they're too busy? Try going to an NTB or someplace and tell them you need a patch and that also you hate your tires (they're too noisy or I prefer Michelins to contis or whatever) and are looking for prices on another set to research for next paycheck. They might do the patch, if it's possible, just to earn your future business and give you a printout of their prices, which might come in handy anyway if your patch fails. Also try going on an off-hour like 2:30 PM when nobody is making appointments. Walk in instead of calling. They'll probably help you if they're not busy.
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Jul 5, 2016 00:42
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How do I change the break light bulb in a 2013 nissan sentra I'm used to just like having a thing that you twist and pull out but like this poo poo has like some kinda metal plate covering it 
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Jul 5, 2016 05:30
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Nooner posted:How do I change the break light bulb in a 2013 nissan sentra I'm used to just like having a thing that you twist and pull out but like this poo poo has like some kinda metal plate covering it Are there some plastic nuts holding the assembly in? It took me a minute to figure this out yesterday when changing my brake lights in a completely different car. You take the nuts off then the whole assembly pops out if that's the case.
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Jul 5, 2016 05:45
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Nooner posted:How do I change the break light bulb in a 2013 nissan sentra I'm used to just like having a thing that you twist and pull out but like this poo poo has like some kinda metal plate covering it You have to unbolt the whole taillight from the car (might have to pull the trunk liner back a bit to find the nuts), the bulbs themselves should be the same twist-lock style you're expecting. Unless you mean something different, in which case post pics of what's tripping you up.
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Jul 5, 2016 06:00
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So, really stupid question I'm pretty sure I know the answer to. Yesterday, my truck, a 2000 Ford Ranger, wouldn't start. Turn the key, nothing. On the fourth try, it started, and I went on my merry way. It worked fine, probably about ten starts, then leaving Subway, nothing. I could hear a relay clicking from behind the glovebox but that was it. However, I was able to bump-start it in reverse thanks to a helpful stranger. The fact that I was able to bump-start it points definitely and without a doubt to the starter going bad, yes?
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Jul 5, 2016 18:36
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Well, go get your battery tested. Starters don't typically "wear out" to where they'll work some attempts but not others, the fact you were able to start it earlier in the day means it's probably ok. The starter is the heaviest load in your car, it's absolutely possible for your battery to not have enough juice to turn it but still be able to run everything else you'd need for a push start, including the ignition. Check the battery; if it's newer than a year or two old your alternator may be bad, but check that too regardless. If you have a multimeter and an assistant you can check those yourself, as well as looking for voltage drop across the strayer cable, which would indicate the cable is corroded internally.
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Jul 5, 2016 18:49
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Running the engine until the alternator picks up takes far less current than running the starter, so not quite. Things to suspect: - the starter brushes and contactor - the high current starter wiring - the battery to engine block ground cable - the battery lugs - and last but not least, the starter relay and wiring from it to the starter's builtin contactor. The first two are broomstick testable. e: Enourmo, they do and I've had it happen. Usually when the contactor gets gummy or the contacts are badly arc burned from a lot of use, or if the brushes wear out to the point that they're just baaaarely reaching the commutator in the motor itself so any little fragment of worn brush dust will hang them up enough to not work. Jarring the starter with a broomstick will usually coax it to work another 1-20 times depending on your luck. Repeated or excessively hard jarring will make it never work again. If the starter can be broomsticked into working, all you actually need is probably a starter rebuild kit consisting of brushes, contactor, and maybe bearings/seals/screws/random hardware. Any competent nerd can do it with enough patience. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jul 5, 2016 |
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Jul 5, 2016 18:50
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Enourmo posted:Well, go get your battery tested. Starters don't typically "wear out" to where they'll work some attempts but not others, Starters wear out like that all the loving time. The solenoid contacts wear out and make it so you have to cycle the key a million times in the hope of getting one lucky attempt where it cranks.
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Jul 5, 2016 18:55
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Thanks for all of your help with my Elantra's gear fluid replacement, dudes. My gear shifting is now silky-smooth. Here's what came out:  I also found out the importance of placing wood beneath your jack stands + car jack before doing car work on your cheaply-paved driveway during a heatwave.  (we were planning on re-doing our driveway next year, any way. So I found this funny more than anything else).
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Jul 5, 2016 19:05
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This is where I whore out the company I purchase all my starter and alternator rebuild parts from again. https://www.aspwholesale.com - for example all the stuff (aside from a contactor/solenoid) to rebuild a 90s Jeep 4.0L starter motor for $39 in one convenient kit: http://aspwholesale.com/repair-kit-mi-pmgr-p5985.html The solenoid/contactor is $29 and also available if you need it, I think it may be cheaper on rockauto though. $44 for everything needed (usually) to rebuild the alternator for a 91-98 4.0L jeep alternator: http://aspwholesale.com/repair-kit-nd-er/if-90a.html I used to buy $100-150 parts store/rockauto rebuilt alternators and starters... no more. Rather spend $30-50 and half an hour.
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Jul 5, 2016 19:08
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$5 O'Reilly oil change kit pan spotted. It's okay I have like six of them collecting rainwater/oil mixture.
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Jul 5, 2016 19:09
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Christobevii3 posted:My ford ranger leaks out a can of freon a year. $6 freon can, $3 hose, and kill the environment for future generations or spend $1500 paying someone to replace all the fitting gaskets for a car worth $1600. Remove all the AC and enjoy the extra 2hp.
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Jul 5, 2016 19:13
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Geirskogul posted:$5 O'Reilly oil change kit pan spotted. You too eh? I feel like an idiot every time I leave one outside with oil in it and realize I then have to filter the two apart to recycle it.
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Jul 5, 2016 20:22
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2016 20:39
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Remove all the AC and enjoy the extra 2hp. I live 50 miles south of New Orleans in a sub tropic climate. I'll take my ocean front property. Guy with starter issue: test battery, check cables for corrosion, and auto zone can test starter. Cables to starter like to corrode and flywheel teeth chew off. Might be binding on bad teeth. Rock and pop the clutch in parking lot if it does again to see if you have teeth to grab. I had to do for a couple years
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Jul 5, 2016 21:32
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melon cat posted:Thanks for all of your help with my Elantra's gear fluid replacement, dudes. My gear shifting is now silky-smooth. Here's what came out: Before you dispose of that, let it settle and see if it separates.
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Jul 5, 2016 23:04
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So to be clear, the answer to my question of "if my truck doesn't start unless it's bump-started, it's the starter, right?" is no, it could be any number of things, including but not limited to the starter. Gotcha. Gonna get the battery, starter and alternator checked (though they were reading proper voltage last I checked the battery and starter and the connections at the battery at least are all good).
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Jul 5, 2016 23:18
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Could be a lovely battery ground.
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Jul 5, 2016 23:23
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