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Carth Dookie posted:In retrospect, selling it to a junkyard might have been the better choice. He tried but they never showed up. He should just try another junkyard or those we buy junk cars dudes. Also when looking for a CRv be careful look for the ones with a timing belt and you will thank me one day.
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Jul 2, 2016 16:45
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It's like there's a group of people out there who insist on being as obnoxious as possible in the hopes of wearing you down to free. I think this is somehow better than assuming that the general populace is really that illiterate and/or constantly begging for a free shitbox car. The only time selling a cheap car on Craigslist wasn't painful was selling my sister in law's Volvo 240. Oddly, people will trip over each other to get a Volvo that hasn't been registered in two years, even though it was rougher than mine all around.
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Jul 2, 2016 16:58
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Thanks for advice. So, we're going today for a 97 crv, and I already looked up how complicated a belt is. Seems okay. Also, I tried two different junkyards, and both showed up like six hours after the scheduled appointment, when I was already at work. Neither of them called, either, until they already couldn't find me. gently caress that poo poo. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 17:02
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Geirskogul posted:Thanks for advice. So, we're going today for a 97 crv, and I already looked up how complicated a belt is. Seems okay. Also, I tried two different junkyards, and both showed up like six hours after the scheduled appointment, when I was already at work. Neither of them called, either, until they already couldn't find me. gently caress that poo poo. Those timing belts on the crv is super easy. The chained models can go jump in a fiery pit of rusty razors.
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Jul 2, 2016 18:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's like there's a group of people out there who insist on being as obnoxious as possible in the hopes of wearing you down to free. I think this is somehow better than assuming that the general populace is really that illiterate and/or constantly begging for a free shitbox car.  maybe those calls and emails are all from local junkyards wearing you down so you'll give it to them instead of trying to sell it?
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Jul 2, 2016 20:14
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Well, I did have one call where I answered because it was a very similar number to a coworker's, but it was a guy, and I was like "please text requests, the ad says I'll ignore all calls." His first words were "what's wrong with it?" gently caress that guy. Then I blocked the number. Not 30 seconds later, I get a call from a california number, but the same loving guy Okay, news! We just bought a 1998 CRV, 2WD. Got if for cheap (around 1500), considering the market. It's got a few dents and has a catalyst code, but we talked the seller down from 2200 to 1500 due to the code (cleared, have put maybe 20 miles on it so far, and the catalyst went "OK" according to torque, so maybe it's intermittent). The only real issue is the front passenger wheel. It's either a bad CV joint, or a bad wheel bearing. With the car sitting, I can click the wheel forwards/backwards (twist, you know) and click it back and forth pretty badly. It also makes terrible clacks and crunches occasionally while driving. HONDA GOD STR: How hosed am I with the hub? More news! Guy coming by with a trailer RIGHT NOW to buy the explorer, for its transmission!
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Jul 2, 2016 20:36
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Most Hondas need there hubs and bearings pressed out. So find a good shop or go to a junkyard and pull a decent shape knuckle with what you need. All for a lot cheaper then what most shop's will charge.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:49
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The explorer is gone. 250, not bad considering I kept the seat and the center console. I thought being able to jack a car up and twist the wheel was a sign of CV joint or tie rod end, but this clunking happens going straight, and in my mind CV axle clunk is more about going tightly around corners
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Jul 2, 2016 21:16
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Copy/pasted here:some texas redneck posted:
Messaged you on FB but I bought a bearing and I should probably go get a slide hammer. All the YouTube videos show them using that to remove the hub inner from the knuckle (? terminology) before removing the entire knuckle to hammer out the bearing. I've got a bluetooth obd2 tool and yeah it was throwing P0170 and P0172, fuel bank 1 too rich. This thing looks like it's seen some poo poo, it has a distributor on there with junkyard paint pen markings. Also I thought it was 2WD but there's a sticker on the back window that says Realtime 4WD. It's been too goddamn hot for me to actually bend down and look underneath (and I forgot, to be honest). I picked up a new O2 sensor (upstream) just in case. It was cheaper at like $50 for an actual Denso. I'd like to start diagnosis with a clean slate. Also I can't register it with a check engine light so I'm sacrificing money for speed. Also it came with a picnic table in the back. That's...unique.  Image dump!   Clearly got some damage, but due to AZ, not much rust       Hmm, the cover to the jack is missing.  Found it.  There you go.  Nothing too alarming on the engine, except for that junker distributor.  And a very slight, but clearly persistent, valve cover or gasket leak 
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Jul 2, 2016 23:30
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Oh god the gold lettered cars of the late 90s, that's something I never saw much of on the west coast and I'm thankful for it. I've never investigated if that was a factory or aftermarket thing or what.
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Jul 2, 2016 23:53
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My experience with that era of CRV -- it's probably RT4wd, but the rear differential turns two tiny toothpicks of driveshafts. That diff likes to make squeaking noises that people chase their tails troubleshooting, but it's an easy fix. Replacing the fluid with the correct Honda oil takes the squeak away immediately. If the PO tried some fuckery, they may have disconnected the rear drive in some way. Something to check for when it gets cooler there.
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Jul 2, 2016 23:55
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EVERYWHERE 
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Thanks for the info on that. Yeah, those driveshafts look meager. CRV list for me: Immediate: O2 Sensor Front Passenger bearing/cv axle (parts on hand) Turn signal bulbs (front) Turn signal bulbs (rear) Register car (when available) Oil change Intermediate: Timing Belt (unknown mileage) Tires (none match) E: driver's side has a remanufacturered CV axle, passenger side is OEM. Passenger side is completely knackered. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 00:41
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CharlesM posted:Oh god the gold lettered cars of the late 90s, that's something I never saw much of on the west coast and I'm thankful for it. I've never investigated if that was a factory or aftermarket thing or what. Oh I just realized, United States Naval Academy, it probably was an East Coast car.
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Jul 3, 2016 02:09
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I wouldn't sweat over the distributor. Honda distributors have never been the most robust, and if the ignitor in it went out, it was probably quicker and easier to just swap the whole thing. That looks like it was changed pretty recently too; I wouldn't think many dealers are keeping ignitors on the shelf anymore.
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Jul 3, 2016 02:21
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I can understand that. Also, I am a loving moron. Why am I a loving moron? Think of the things that can cause a wheel to shimmy. Think of them. There are three big culprits, right? Which one is the SIMPLEST and CHEAPEST to do? I'll give you a hint. The wheel bearing was fine. The CV joint was fine.
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Jul 3, 2016 03:20
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Tighten the lug nuts?
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Jul 3, 2016 03:22
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So, was it out of balance or were there missing lug nuts?
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Jul 3, 2016 03:23
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Tie rod end. Sorry, guess there's four options. Well, it's got two good front CV axles now.
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Jul 3, 2016 03:32
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What is wrong with dizzy? I would t worry. An igniter on that is easy to replace hell the dizzy is easy to replace I would t replace working items on a Honda
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Jul 3, 2016 04:21
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No, I'm not going to replace it. It looks like it's fine, just noticing the junkyard marks on it from a car that was allegedly "only worked on by a BMW mechanic," like that's supposed to mean something good when it's a poor-class Honda. Anyway, I'm going to find my headlamp and look at doing that tie rod end tonight. That lets me only have to do a ghetto string alignment tomorrow instead of doing both.
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Jul 3, 2016 04:25
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Assuming the screws for the ignitor aren't seized, and you can find one in stock locally, yeah, they're easy to replace. The last Honda to have a distributor was the 2002 Accord 2.3L though (2001 for the CRV), everything has been coil on plug since then. Finding an ignitor in stock isn't that easy anymore.
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Jul 3, 2016 04:26
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Tie rod was actually my first thought, but then you said 'simplest and cheapest', and lug nuts trump tie rod ends for simple and cheap. 
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Jul 3, 2016 04:36
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I am learning more and more about this car. I guess it's a testament to how Hondas just "survive" where other cars would fail. Let me paint you a picture about the past few owners using the basic maintenance history: Every bulb except for the headlights, one tail light, one turn signal (rear driver), and one reverse light was burned out. Including every interior light (these are some TINY festoons, man), brake cyclops, etc. The suspension components on the front driver's side are all new-ish. Maybe 50k miles tops on them. The suspension components on the passenger side are all OE. The ceiling has stains on it. And, not, like in the cargo area where you'd expect the occasional dresser to scrape, but the entire ceiling. In places people don't even put their hands. The steering wheel is barely a circle of oil-ruined urethane scraps hanging on to the metal ring. The horn thumb buttons are well-worn. I did an emissions check online on AZDEQ, and while it passed most of them, every one of them records a pending P0170. Even after the O2 sensor replacement and techron job, I'm still getting a pending P0170. The oil drain plug has an orange paint stripe on it that shops put on there to see if you did the oil yourself (or something). Still intact. The oil filter is a WHITE Fram. The driver's seat has a hole from a cigarette, but the ashtray and armrest are clean. The dashboard has been religiously Armor-All'd to the point is has a thick layer on top. The air filter is brand new. So is the downstream O2 sensor. The driver's door is not original, and while it has the switch for central locking on the rest of the doors, it itself doesn't have central locking and requires a key to lock. Just about every heat shield rattles, and this has been an AZ car from birth. Absolutely no rust and all the nuts are pristine  So, for the first time in my life, I went out and bought one tie rod, one CV axle, and one balljoint. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 05:51
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Geirskogul posted:The suspension components on the front driver's side are all new-ish. Maybe 50k miles tops on them. From the pics, it looks like the LF corner has been redone. Door, fender, etc all looked like new paint. So that's not really a surprise. I'd be looking at fuel pressure and vacuum leaks to figure out the 0170/0171 issues. And let me tell you a little secret about Hondas and their locks. To lock the drivers door from the inside with the door open, you need to pull the inside door handle while locking it. Every Honda I've owned was like that, except for my Integra. I don't think they still do that on current models, but it's THAT ONE TRICK that they don't want you to know. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 06:17
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some texas redneck posted:Assuming the screws for the ignitor aren't seized, and you can find one in stock locally, yeah, they're easy to replace. It has been 3+ years since I sold my accord but I never had a problem ordering online and picking up same day any component at my local advance or az or sometimes dealer in a town of less than 50k including igniter which I needed about 5 years ago Edit: if you tuning it up you better throw some OG NGKs in there I don't care what anyone says straight up copper NGKs make an old Honda happy Double edit: I don't remember if you are in Texas or CA or what but you have a large Mexican population there is a shop that will slap on a new cv for cheap somewhere in a bad part of town and do a drat fine job at it AND now I read lugs just loose I am drunk ignore this everdave fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 06:57
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The plug wires are absolutely brand new, like someone was shotgunning parts at it to troubleshoot it. But I'll check the plugs. I'm happy with copper plugs anyway - my ACVWs are happy with them, too. The lady I bought it from was in a very, very affluent part of Scottsdale, which is the affluent stiff-jawed cousin to Phoenix. I don't think the car suffered a "single" big collision: more like one moderate one (panel replacements), and a TON of small ones. Hitting bollards, braille-parking, etc. None of the tires match and the old super-rich lady was like "I walk into discount tire and ask for their finest used tires whenever one goes flat." Talking with STR, turns out I can manually lock the door by pulling either handle and hitting the lock. When I do that, the other doors weakly try to lock, too. So wiring is probably okay, just a dead solenoid. I already did the CV joint (it involved using a hub separator to push the cv axle past the circlip hang-up point in the transmission), and tomorrow will tackle the tie rod. Also ordered LED festoon bulbs, for all six this car needs. I know I said it already, but they're tiny (25-26mm).
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Jul 3, 2016 07:14
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Four new copper NGKs are a good $15 spend any day of the week make sure they old school if you just say NGKs they will bring out that platinum poo poo. And you spend $50-80 on useless poo poo all the time go for it. I am drunk btw. Old Hondas are so good that is the last of my Rex's except find a factory service manual on eBay if u can mine I had for my 92 accord was golden
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Jul 3, 2016 07:18
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Geirskogul posted:The plug wires are absolutely brand new, like someone was shotgunning parts at it to troubleshoot it. But I'll check the plugs. I'm happy with copper plugs anyway - my ACVWs are happy with them, too. Slow locking check your grounds son under the hood check cables replace if needed heavier gauge yes can also be solenoids but...
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Jul 3, 2016 07:20
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That's a good idea, and drunk posting here is A-OK. I'm starting to hit it a bit now, too. Let me update the list: Geirskogul posted:Immediate: everdave posted:And you spend $50-80 on useless poo poo all the time go for it. Do you wanna know how I got these Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 07:26
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My last reply before I slip into oblivion tonight: Cap and rotor and dielectric grease on boots and cap if need replacing. I have been killing it lately with eBay tires for new stuff look into it. I just put 5 (yes 5) new Goodyear wranglers on wifes old explorer for ~300 with a crazy 100 off coupon the Mexican tire shop couldn't believe a gringo was bringing 5 new tires to get mounted GET THOSE NGKS
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Jul 3, 2016 07:31
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My 4Runner and my old Mazda Protege are the same way about plugs. They both run like hot garbage on anything but the OEM NGK coppers.
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Jul 3, 2016 14:42
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You did well with this purchase. I wish I hadn't had to sell my civic and doubly wish I could have gotten my hands on a crv like this one. Unfortunately I have to be an adult, drive a boring car and not have space/time to wrench on anything.
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Jul 3, 2016 17:06
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Heading out to pick up the right spark plugs right now.  These cams are like mirrors   
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Jul 3, 2016 21:29
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 Those're the OLD plugs?
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Jul 3, 2016 22:30
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Yeah. Pretty good. Especially considering I just finished the valve adjustment, and the exhaust valves were all way too tight (two of them had zero clearance on my smallest feeler leaf), and the intake valves were WAY too loose. Like, .5mm.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:08
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Dang! My 2.0L is very unlikely going to be showing me that kind of love when I take 'er all apart. Nice pliers, by the way.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:16
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  Honda even provides a hole to turn the crank with. Holy poo poo I am not used to thoughtful engineering.  Also, this was very satisfying: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w4WlTwp3I8
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Jul 3, 2016 23:27
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Hell if those plugs are the recommended ones I would just put them back in and keep the new ones you bought till it needs them.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:32
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Nah, unfortunately Honda only recommends this specific NGK or the Denso equivalent. Of course, Hondatalk and CRV Owners Club is full of "my car was crap with Autolite/Champion/Bosch plugs then I switched to NGK and it's amazing again" talk, but I fully believe most of that is "I'm special" BS. But, I had the cover off, and why not throw $8 of plugs at it? I'll definitely box the old ones and put them in the trunk, for sure.
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Jul 3, 2016 23:38
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Just throw the ngks in. Autolite is the "I'm broke as poo poo/just dont care and want the cheapest option" plug or the "I don't none of that ferrin' fancy jap crap in mah engine, give me some merican made stuff!" or the "I demand an unplated copper plug for my completely original 1967 corvette!" option.
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Jul 4, 2016 00:09
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