|
I grabbed a thrift store hair dryer and it's worked fine for me. (Despite the strange looks at checkout, since I shave my head)
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 21:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 00:02 |
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Painted up some Pelegrath Bloodhowls from Wrath of Kings. The miniatures are fairly unique, and more importantly they are cheap. Unfortunately I found out that you do get what you pay for. The fine details on the plastic models is pretty muddy, and in some places non-existent. The big details like muscle definition was fantastic, but the little hard details like buckles, shield straps and sword hilts were pretty poor. Their parts splits meant little to no gap-filling required, but the mold lines running over the organic details were a pain to clean up. I had no idea this game even existed. I think I'm going to pick up a Hadross starter set and paint it up. These look great!
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
Anyone try out the Secret Weapon Miniatures acrylic paint line yet?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 22:40
|
|
|
Trying to decide what kind of swamp water color to go with for my Malifaux Zoraida crew basing. I'm also gonna be using mud, so going to be staying away from brownish colors. Heavy green is right out because Bad Juju and Silurids are also heavily green. I was thinking either p3 Cygnar Blue Base or Reaper Dragon blue for the primary color, then mixing in a touch of p3 Gnarls Green or Reaper Turf Green to give it a little touch of green for that algae look while keeping the blue color. Thoughts? Got a bunch of p3 and Reaper paint here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 22:47
|
|
|
Signal posted:I grabbed a thrift store hair dryer and it's worked fine for me. (Despite the strange looks at checkout, since I shave my head) For buildings? The plastic is usually pretty substantial on terrain.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 23:32
|
|
|
Any airbrush recommendations here? I have a cheapo masters g23 at the moment and was thinking about an upgrade
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 23:35
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any airbrush recommendations here? I have a cheapo masters g23 at the moment and was thinking about an upgrade The standard thread recommendation is a Badger Patriot
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 23:45
|
|
|
Pyrolocutus posted:Trying to decide what kind of swamp water color to go with for my Malifaux Zoraida crew basing. I'm also gonna be using mud, so going to be staying away from brownish colors. Heavy green is right out because Bad Juju and Silurids are also heavily green. I was thinking either p3 Cygnar Blue Base or Reaper Dragon blue for the primary color, then mixing in a touch of p3 Gnarls Green or Reaper Turf Green to give it a little touch of green for that algae look while keeping the blue color. Are you using water effects at all or just painted water? I'm also planning some swampy goodness. I've been looking at a lot of swamp and I decided to go with water effects.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 23:48
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:The standard thread recommendation is a Badger Patriot Any major pro/con vs a similarly priced iwata?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2016 23:57
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:For buildings? The plastic is usually pretty substantial on terrain. Whoops, didn't notice that part.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 02:54
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any major pro/con vs a similarly priced iwata? I know nothing of Iwata airbrushes but I have a Badger Patriot 105. Its a great airbrush that is sturdy as hell , can pretty much do everything except super fine detail work, plus if you do manage to mess something up Badger has really great customer support. Theres also a host of different kits for changing how you want to use it and they're fairly cheap. The Sisko fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jul 7, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 02:56
|
|
|
The Sisko posted:I know nothing of Iwata airbrushes but I have a Badger Patriot 105. Its a great airbrush that is sturdy as hell , can pretty much do everything except super fine detail work, plus if you do manage to mess something up Badger has really great customer support. There also a host of different kits for changing how you want use it and they're fairly cheap. This is my experience as well. I have the Patriot, though I prefer the siphon feed of the same thing. They're just good. I can't speak for Iwata, maybe you could be the guinea pig of the thread for that, but you could also just buy the Patriot and have a known good product.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 03:25
|
|
|
GoodBee posted:Are you using water effects at all or just painted water? Painted water. My local store doesn't stock water effects regularly, and I don't want to have to wait on an order, plus fiddling around with it. At some point I want to add it to my repertoire of mini modeling techniques, but now just isn't the time for me. Anyways, I was going to be using an actual mud effect on my bases, and my brother pointed out that he'd expect the water to be, well, muddy as well. I'm going with a three layer thing, with Reaper Griffon Tan being the largest area, Woodland Brown being a smaller area within, and Umber Brown being the interior. I am gonna try the other option on one of my Silurids that's standing on a rock, soo not really any mud on his base.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 05:33
|
|
|
Pyrolocutus posted:Painted water. My local store doesn't stock water effects regularly, and I don't want to have to wait on an order, plus fiddling around with it. At some point I want to add it to my repertoire of mini modeling techniques, but now just isn't the time for me. I'm going to do my swamp water pretty much like the Secret Weapon Blasted Wetlands tutorial. with water effects. I think the effect I'm going for is mud with lichen/algae on top of it with standing water over that. I think if I were going to paint swampy terrain without water effects, then I'd probably go with the effect you would get if an area is often swampy and full of water but it's receded for the moment. If I did that, I'd paint the same mud on the bottom as the mud that wouldn't have been under water, then I'd paint some algae on the part that would have been under water. I'd only use the flock on stuff that we would have been over the water line. If you had crackle medium (and you could make it work, which I have never been able to do) you might want to try it between the mud and the algae on top. Swamp water is pretty clear unless something has been moving through it. If you think your dudes have been loving up the mud, then go for a color that is close to the mud. If you think your dudes can move through the swamp without disturbing it too much, try to paint the water clearer. Swamp water doesn't really move a whole bunch.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 06:31
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any airbrush recommendations here? I have a cheapo masters g23 at the moment and was thinking about an upgrade I don't really airbrush that much anymore because where I live it's not really an option and so I sold my brushes. I also usually used my brushes for my other big hobbies (modifying Nerf guns and post apoc LARP) but I had an H&S and a Paasche Talon. The Talon is a great brush and I think it's pound for pound the best brush in it's price bracket. It's built a lot tougher than similar prices stuff as well, but it's very much built for American hands and so it's pretty chunky.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 06:57
|
|
|
Seeing online that the bager patriot comes with a massive gently caress off needle (.75) which sounds awesome for basecoating/sealing. Being this is what I'm going to be doing 90% of the time that sounds really appealing. I'm I putting myself in a bad spot to do detail work with that though. Is the needle to big for that stuff/does the brush come with other needles?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 15:23
|
|
|
Yes, and it doesnt, but detail needles are not expensive to get hold of
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 15:31
|
|
|
I bought my detail needle/nozzle for my Patriot at Michael's with the 40% off coupon from their website. It was like 6 bucks. If you dont live in the US, there might be similar bigger craft and hobby shops that stock Badger.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 15:36
|
|
|
Makes sense. Maybe a .35 fine detail?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 15:37
|
|
|
Getting my eye back in with an Inquisitor Lord in Terminator Armor. I made the mistake of going too thin on basecoats and too thick on highlights, but I like it:
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 19:52
|
|
|
El Estrago Bonito posted:It's built a lot tougher than similar prices stuff as well, but it's very much built for American hands and so it's pretty chunky. What.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 19:56
|
|
|
Patriot 105 with fine needle kit or the new Patriot Extreme if you can get it on a deal. Krushgroove did a great video review.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 20:03
|
|
|
X-post from the Oath thread since they don't like talking about tiny mans.Dimo ArKacho posted:
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 20:30
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:What. It's a great brush but it's targeted at a pretty wide market which includes the vast majority of airbrushers. IE people who do car detailing, T-shirts, signs and poo poo like that. Companies like H&S and Iwata take a much more "delicate piece of tech" feel for their brushes and the Paasche is built like a loving tank compared to them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 21:02
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:What. they fat
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2016 21:17
|
|
|
More WIP on the Kingdom Death survivor made from the Dragon Armour kit and armed with chakram and gloom sword.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 03:21
|
|
|
Cross-poastingpanascope posted:I mostly finished up 30 of these guys tonight. Only took me 6 months: panascope fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jul 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 04:20
|
|
|
So, let's say I've gone to clean out my airbrush, and discovered that somebody has knocked over my bottle of airbrush cleaner without telling me - what common cleaning or other fluids around the house could I use as a substitute until more can arrive via mail order?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 04:30
|
|
|
NTRabbit posted:So, let's say I've gone to clean out my airbrush, and discovered that somebody has knocked over my bottle of airbrush cleaner without telling me - what common cleaning or other fluids around the house could I use as a substitute until more can arrive via mail order? Windex
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 04:37
|
|
|
Cheers; lifesaver indolent bastard, I set aside today specifically because it's the only rain free day predicted for a while, and I was about to toss it all in and play Overwatch
NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jul 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 04:53
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Any airbrush recommendations here? I have a cheapo masters g23 at the moment and was thinking about an upgrade Either a Patriot 105 or a Patriot Xtreme (a 105 with mainly nice not need to have changes).
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 05:20
|
|
|
On the recommendation of this thread I bought some Vallejo metal Air Review:  I mean holy poo poo this is good. I've previously been using citadel air metallics, and they're fine, but this is just blow away better in comparison. Smoother, less granularity, faster to dry, and true actual metallic. Strongly considering buying the whole set now.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 05:24
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:Getting my eye back in with an Inquisitor Lord in Terminator Armor. I made the mistake of going too thin on basecoats and too thick on highlights, but I like it: I like this guy. Great Rogue Trader-era sculpt, and a quartered scheme is hard to pull off. You really should clean up the thick highlights though - it's easier than doing the highlights themselves and you end up with a much nicer end product as a result. Most of my highlights are thick and kinda sloppy til I go back later in the process and touch them all up. That being said I still think you did a good job with him!
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 06:46
|
|
|
I painted some Birbs    These are Malifaux Raptors, and they're a really cool kit, that can be used for anything 28mm related as they're very neutral models with no "weird" stuff on them. I'm pondering if i should add more layers to the beak/talons, right now it's bascially just a layer of Vallejo black, but it's got a real nice shine to it that i'll probably want to keep instead of adding highlights with a grey of some sort. Next up is a Blessed of December, the box art shows her as a purplish furred beastie, I'll probably basecoat a dark grey and try with a purple wash, unless anyone's got a better suggestion?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 07:05
|
|
|
What red should I use to highlight the gore red of this Stormcast Eternal's armor?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 07:20
|
|
|
SRM posted:I like this guy. Great Rogue Trader-era sculpt, and a quartered scheme is hard to pull off. You really should clean up the thick highlights though - it's easier than doing the highlights themselves and you end up with a much nicer end product as a result. Most of my highlights are thick and kinda sloppy til I go back later in the process and touch them all up. That being said I still think you did a good job with him! How would you suggest? A glaze? Mixing a midtone with some medium and painting a line between the highlight and lower level? I'm a bit upset on reflection that the red looks so flat, there's three layers of highlights on that too!
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 07:40
|
|
|
GreenMarine posted:What red should I use to highlight the gore red of this Stormcast Eternal's armor? For edge highlights? Wazdakka, Mephiston, or P3 Skorne Red. Your first layer can probably be mixed 1:1 with the highlight before you go with the pure color. Check out this handy chart for reds: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 10:31
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Check out this handy chart for reds: That may be one of the most useful things I've seen in a long time. I definitely need something like that in the blue spectrum of paints I've got around here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 12:36
|
|
|
GreenMarine posted:What red should I use to highlight the gore red of this Stormcast Eternal's armor? I just want to say I like how you have made the main color look tarnished
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 12:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 00:02 |
|
|
What are some good primers to use with an airbrush? I've been using Vallejo surface primers, and while they stick very well to plastic and resin they've been a bit hit or miss on metal models. Sometimes the primer sticks to the pewter just fine, and other times it rubs off at the slightest touch. I wash all my models before I start painting them, so I don't think that casting residue is the issue. Is this something that is inherent with Vallejo primers? I've heard of similar complaints before.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2016 13:18
|
|
