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Finally bolted the mustang back together after my cracked intake manifold. I let it sit way too long.
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Jul 5, 2016 07:07
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Now lower it to go faster.
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Jul 5, 2016 07:33
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Cage posted:Now lower it to go faster. 
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Jul 5, 2016 15:38
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Krakkles posted:I'll worry about it when yours can keep up with mine If it wasn't running for several months I'm pretty sure his was faster than yours.
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Jul 5, 2016 15:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it wasn't running for several months I'm pretty sure his was faster than yours. And ouch.
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Jul 5, 2016 16:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it wasn't running for several months I'm pretty sure his was faster than yours.  In my car news my camrys front strut is singing the broken spring blues. Rock auto has the cheapest quick strut around. Wooh
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Jul 6, 2016 00:36
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Serviced the distributor and put new spark plugs into the beater Polo. Also cleaned and lubricated the window runners in the good car so that they dont make an infernal squealing noise when going up and down any more, it was getting embarrassing to open the door, have the window drop half an inch and people to notice 30 feet away 
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Jul 7, 2016 09:56
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Finally got off my rear end and started on my flatbed Golf project. Removed everything in the back that needs to be removed. Rear seats in two-door hatchbacks are a lot heavier than I thought they'd be.
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Jul 7, 2016 15:20
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 The GTV6 needed some rust repairs. Small patch for the left sill and a bit more for both rear corners below the trunk floor. Some pics from the left rear corner. Plenty of filler and self tapping screws were found.   More you dig, more you find:  Going back together:   I left the plastic side skirts off for now and plugged the attachment holes. I also replaced the front wheel bearing.   The next task was a new rear axle with spherical bearings, a bit more camber and adjustable Watt-link mount to allow adjustment of rear roll centre. The upper mounting point is the stock position.     
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Jul 7, 2016 20:01
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I've always liked the approach taken by some backyard body guys that's like "there's not enough material here, shove some self-tappers in it so there's something for the bondo to grab onto." At that point it might as well just be papier mache.
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Jul 7, 2016 20:02
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Threw some Redline MT-90 into my 944 transaxle, swapping from the cheapo Nulon oil I put in. The hope was to get rid of some grinding in 1st gear. So far so good. The real bonus is that it shifts really bloody smooth now. Worth the extra money and the shipping time. Also had my fast glass die on me, the original relay from 1985 finally died. 31 years of service, not bad. The terrible part was it cost almost $200 to get a replacement here.
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Jul 8, 2016 00:02
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DoLittle posted:I left the plastic side skirts off for now and plugged the attachment holes. I also replaced the front wheel bearing. Excuse to point out we both have grey GTV6s.. did you have the OEM clips for the side skirts? Did they all snap? Photo from a couple of weeks ago for science: 
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Jul 8, 2016 01:41
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Hit an Apex posted:Excuse to point out we both have grey GTV6s.. did you have the OEM clips for the side skirts? Did they all snap? Surprisingly almost all of them came of intact. I removed the scews, then slid the skirts of. The OEM plastics clips then came out by twisting them 45-degrees and pulling. Your car looks very original and tidy. Even the front suspension is still at the height needed to match federal headlight height regulation. What's up with the extra chrome stripe on the side? My car has been rebuilt several times by different owners and is not that tidy, but looks ok from distance. It was originally a brown 2.0 4-cyl. In the 90's it got converted to a "GTV6". in 2013 it was repainted by PO in the current brownish metallic grey after extensive rust repairs. He also installed a 3.0 24v engine.
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Jul 8, 2016 07:27
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DoLittle posted:Your car looks very original and tidy. Even the front suspension is still at the height needed to match federal headlight height regulation. What's up with the extra chrome stripe on the side? My car has been rebuilt several times by different owners and is not that tidy, but looks ok from distance. It was originally a brown 2.0 4-cyl. In the 90's it got converted to a "GTV6". in 2013 it was repainted by PO in the current brownish metallic grey after extensive rust repairs. He also installed a 3.0 24v engine. Yep - the "jacked" up front look. Now, I do have slightly smaller profile tires (sticky ones) but even so, that is the way they came here. Not messing with it for now. The chrome stripes are not so chrome and more door guards, they were added by the dealers and importer in the U.S. Otherwise, yep, pretty original, just had a bunch of work done - timing belt, tensioner, etc. Spent most of last month chasing some electrical issues which are all fixed after cleaning every connection known to man. Your car must be a rocket Edit: send parts Hit an Apex fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 13:29
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Ansith posted:Threw some Redline MT-90 into my 944 transaxle, swapping from the cheapo Nulon oil I put in. Related to that I fixed the auxiliary fan on the 928. All it took was a new blower fuse, new blower relay and a new blower temp switch...  But now it was able to idle in the sun when it's 90 degrees out with no troubles.
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 14:29
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Justified my purchase of a second car by having to use it to grab a battery for my DD. I knew I'd need it.
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Jul 9, 2016 21:11
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Finished turning the reverse lamps in my Euro rear bumper into combination reverse/turn signals: Had to silicone a pair of 1157 sockets onto the lamp housings that are set up for 1156 and used a pair of white/amber switchback LEDs. Turn signals are much more obvious now (previously I only had a pair of amber LEDs in the original backup lights in the tail lights, which you could see but not very well during daytime) and the reverse lights substantially illuminate behind the car at night. Also finishes my LED conversion, at this point the only incandescent bulbs being used externally are the H7s in my bi-xenon headlight highbeams.
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Jul 9, 2016 21:50
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Geoj, looks really good. Not usually a fan of switchback LEDs, but they work really well there. I'd like to eventually go all LED as well, but I'm too  paranoid about them not being bright enough during the day. So many of the LEDs I see can barely be seen when the sun is out, and I'm not really willing to risk dropping the money on them until I know there's a solid one that's as bright as the OEM incandescent lighting.I finally put my sub back in my car, after a 3 week absence (took it out while moving to my new place for extra cargo room). Next I need to fix the rear speakers, the wiring going to one got snagged on some boxes awhile back and got ripped out of the plug.
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Jul 10, 2016 08:49
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some texas redneck posted:I'd like to eventually go all LED as well, but I'm too I've been really happy with that JDM Astar brand. The switchback LEDs I used in the rear are almost too bright at night and easily visible during the day. I recently put a set of these in my tail lights and they work very well - visible in direct sunlight, noticeable difference between tail and brake light and they fully illuminate the reflector unlike a lot of LED modules where all you get is a small pinpoint of light.
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Jul 10, 2016 19:26
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Got a smoking deal on a set of C6 wheels for the C5. Picked those up and pulled my wheels off to drop everything off at the tire shop. Had to order new tires since the new wheels are bigger, but I'm glad because I had some trash runflats that I hated. Rode like poo poo and were super noisy. Gonna have them move the TPMS sensors to the new wheels and will sell my stock wheels with tires to offset most of the cost. Also discovered my plastic (wtf GM!?) endlinks in the front are flexing and have torn boots, so I ordered some metal ones to install while I have the car in the air waiting on tires.
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Jul 11, 2016 13:14
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Washed it, she kind of needed it after sitting under a sap tree for two weeks. 
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Jul 11, 2016 18:03
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Cage posted:Washed it, she kind of needed it after sitting under a sap tree for two weeks. When's the Jurassic paint job coming?? Man I have never seen an explorer that clean. Most of the two doors around Chicago are rusted and have been jumped multiple times.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:40
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JP explorers are first gen, mines a 2nd gen. Heres one someone did on an explorer forum, though:  http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/1992-ford-explorer-jurassic-park-conversion.438811/
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Jul 11, 2016 23:27
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Swapped the shifter axle to the older "Alfetta" style in preparation of a gearbox swap. The new box is a close ratio box that combines 75 and Alfetta gears and has a LSD with 3.9:1 final drive from a 75 Turbo.
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Jul 12, 2016 15:49
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some texas redneck posted:Geoj, looks really good. Not usually a fan of switchback LEDs, but they work really well there. I'd like to eventually go all LED as well, but I'm too I just got done swapping all my internal/external halogen lights to LEDs (I got mine from Diode Dynamics) and they were all dramatically brighter. I did the switchback turn signals/running lights, rear side markers, reverse lamb, and then the internal stuff like map lights/trunk/glovebox.
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Jul 12, 2016 19:28
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Diode dynamics makes some really nice stuff. I have their sm6 board as the single light in the back of my wagon. It throws light all the way to the front seats. 
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Jul 12, 2016 20:56
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Yea, the SMD-12 is what I put in the trunk, it's fantastic.
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Jul 12, 2016 22:20
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Never buy a car that has been winter driven in Finland. Every bolt has rusted solid. Should be better in future though. After this axle and gear box project, almost all bolts or nuts in the car have been opened within ~4 years. Old and somewhat busted: 
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Jul 13, 2016 19:08
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Inboard brakes?
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Jul 13, 2016 19:10
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88h88 posted:Inboard brakes?
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Jul 13, 2016 19:12
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Screw the inboard brakes, that's a DeDion rear! Alfa Romeo right?
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Jul 13, 2016 19:39
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Yeah, a GTV6. Few posts up. I'm installing a close ratio box with LSD diff and a De Dion with spherical bearings, a bit of camber and toe-in and adjustable roll center. DoLittle posted:
DoLittle posted:Swapped the shifter axle to the older "Alfetta" style in preparation of a gearbox swap. The new box is a close ratio box that combines 75 and Alfetta gears and has a LSD with 3.9:1 final drive from a 75 Turbo.
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Jul 13, 2016 20:01
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Aren't there huge design flaws with inboard brakes? Like they make sense in non super serious applications? Or is it mostly a cooling thing. How bad is the opposing rotational force on an axle?
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Jul 13, 2016 20:08
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TheFonz posted:Aren't there huge design flaws with inboard brakes? Like they make sense in non super serious applications? Or is it mostly a cooling thing. How bad is the opposing rotational force on an axle? Never heard of any brake related axle issues. Maintenance is a bitch without a lift. Otherwise they are fine in non super serious use. In serious racing use there are couple of issues. In long distance racing the heat from the brakes can deteriorate diff oil seals and maintenance is difficult during pit stops. If very large brake discs (300+ mm/12+") are used in rear ground clearance becomes an issue at race car ride heights. Factory WTCC/ETCC ('86-'87) 75 Turbos ran outboard brakes for these reasons. ETCC manufacturers championship winning ('82-'85) GTV6 still had inboard brakes. DoLittle fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 20:21
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Gwaihir posted:I just got done swapping all my internal/external halogen lights to LEDs (I got mine from Diode Dynamics) and they were all dramatically brighter. I did the switchback turn signals/running lights, rear side markers, reverse lamb, and then the internal stuff like map lights/trunk/glovebox. One issue I have with going all LED: my car runs the front turn signals as daytime running lights. I thought I had read somewhere that switchbacks aren't really well suited for that due to running the high brightness part all day? Especially since I'd have to add a load resistor, so plenty of extra heat there. I mean, i can override the DRLs and force them off, but I'd have to do it every time I start the car (and doing that disables the automatic headlights).
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Jul 13, 2016 22:22
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It probably depends on if the bulb has adequate heatsinks/a nice all metal housing to help deal with cooling the LEDs. So it's probably fine if you get a high quality piece?
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Jul 14, 2016 02:41
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Got the new wheels mounted up. First, replaced the aforementioned plastic sway bar end links. Seriously, WTF GM? Needed to install a 1" adapter for the rear to make up for the offset difference with the C6 wheels.  Not pictured: grinding off the tips of the factory lugs so they clear the inside of the new wheels, and burning the poo poo out of my finger touching one of the lugs too soon after that. Also lowered the ride height around half an inch front and rear. May go a little lower still, gonna let it settle and see if I can still make it up my driveway without scraping. Old wheels:  New, before the suspension settled at all.    Yeah its filthy. Gonna wash it and get some proper pictures this weekend. Fake edit: went for a longer drive, suspension settled a bit more. I think the height may actually be just right. Pretty hard to tell though, you'll have to settle for Wawa parking lot shots:   Really really dig the new wheels though. I did not care for the thin spoked chrome look on the old ones, and they looked a little small to me. At 19"/18", these seem perfect. Got a new set of Bridgestone S-04's mounted on them, its wet out so I couldn't test the handling much, but they're definitely quieter and smoother than the Goodyear runlflats.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:26
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opengl128 posted:Got the new wheels mounted up. First, replaced the aforementioned plastic sway bar end links. Seriously, WTF GM? Okay, on my Ion (aka Cobalt), the plastic sway bar end links are excusable, since it's a bottom tier economy car. Pretty surprised to see them on a Corvette.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:41
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some texas redneck posted:Okay, on my Ion (aka Cobalt), the plastic sway bar end links are excusable, since it's a bottom tier economy car. How do you think GM sells a $100k car for $60k? Gotta cheap out where you can (also see the plastic gears in the seats that control the tilt, which like to strip out).
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Jul 14, 2016 04:41
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:31 |
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Brigdh posted:How do you think GM sells a $100k car for $60k? Gotta cheap out where you can (also see the plastic gears in the seats that control the tilt, which like to strip out). Wow, did those new sway bar links cost $40,000?
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Jul 14, 2016 05:50
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