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Wife 850 interior door handle bushings rotted out and the rod that connects the interior handle and latch mechanism dropped down in the door. Is hooking and bending a coat hanger in place an acceptable fix to eliminate the bushings and rod? I'm pretty certain that the latch only needs to pull and the mechanism springs back which means there's not even really a need for the latch to be able to push (i'm comparing against the push pull requirement of a transmission selector). I imagine it will end up a little rattly but I'm ok with a bubba fix as long as it is permanent and an improvement in longevity. Those bushings are a known pain in the rear end evidently in hot humid areas and a repeatable fix as they take a poo poo is my goal.
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Jul 8, 2016 17:02
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I shot this  e: Oh, they all look the same to me, thanks! Ghosts n Gopniks fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jul 9, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 17:56
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MrLonghair posted:I shot this Amazon (with a camera that has Leica written on it) and thought about you, Volvo Megathread. Nice photo but the Amazon is the 12x series and that's a PV 444.
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Jul 9, 2016 00:39
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Actual Craigslist gold? https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5683346789.html I had a 88 744 Turbo when I was a dumb high schooler who didn't know anything about cars; anything to look out for on this? Edit: hopefully that's not distilled water for the car in back blk fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jul 15, 2016 |
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Jul 15, 2016 00:44
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Repair issue? 2006 V70R.. For a while I had an alignment issue that scalloped the front tires a bit...so when the tires were rotated, there's been a lot of road noise from the tires. But because I don't drive a lot, I've been waiting to replace the tires since I'd have to replace all four. So I took a long drive today and the road noise has been really loud especially driving over 60 mph. However, about 40 mi before the end of the drive, I started getting a buzzing/vibrating noise when I'm going more than 65 mph. This wasn't the road noise coming from the back tires...rather from the front left (trans?). It's a very worrying noise, but as long as I stayed under 65 there was no noise. Any thoughts? Anyone encounter the same? I still have about 2 hours to drive tomorrow to get where I'm going and before I'd be able to get it to a shop to check it out.. Hoping that it was just a fluke... really hoping it's not trans problems...
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Jul 15, 2016 04:04
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blk posted:Actual Craigslist gold? Looks solid, if everything works properly that's a pretty good deal. Pay close attention to the overdrive and the gauges if you drive it. If either or both of them don't work they can be kind of annoying to troubleshoot.
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Jul 15, 2016 15:02
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Test drove a cpo 2013 S60 T5 Platinum today on a whim while shopping for a new car. It's listed at just under 24,000. Really liked it compared to the other cars I've looked at, which are not luxury cars. (Prius, Impreza, Mazda 3/6) The Cpo warranty sounds really good - is it? Also, how much can I expect to spend on maintenance realistically? Googling I read about $400 dealer oil changes... Is this for real? I have never owned a luxury car before and am very scared of taking the plunge.
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Jul 17, 2016 00:02
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so i stupidly turned to my friend and went "i bet the transmission goes next" after fixing the AC on my 940 guess what happened on friday
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Jul 17, 2016 00:04
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Oxphocker posted:Repair issue? So replaced the tires...some of the road noise went down, but it's still really loud above 60 mph. Still hearing it from the rear... I'm thinking maybe wheel hub? rear diff? something else in the drivetrain? Anyone have ideas?
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Jul 20, 2016 00:09
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If anyone has been in the misc chat thread, this is old news…. I’ve been waiting until this thread popped up again to post it here. So about 2 weeks ago I bought a thing:  Here is is parked next to the pollution machine it will be replacing:  My front yard now looks like a wagon meet. I added roof racks, because everything needs a nice rack.  I think Volvo offers a Polestar tune for it, and I want it. It’s a 2015.5 V60 Cross Country, T5 AWD. I used to have a mid 90's 740 wagon in purple, this reminds me of that in all the best ways (except the paint color, which I miss dearly)
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Jul 20, 2016 18:56
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Oxphocker posted:So replaced the tires...some of the road noise went down, but it's still really loud above 60 mph. Still hearing it from the rear... I'm thinking maybe wheel hub? rear diff? something else in the drivetrain? Anyone have ideas? I'd suspect a wheel bearing. I've never read about an AWD Volvo with a failed rear diff. That V60 looks sweet!
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Jul 21, 2016 15:21
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heading out to california to pick up a recycled transmission with 110k on it for $200 today, hopefully i don't need to fix anything else until next summer after this because it's been one thing a month so far i have never done anything this difficult on a car before either so i'll either have a functional car again or a reason to buy a new one
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Jul 21, 2016 19:23
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zundfolge posted:I'd suspect a wheel bearing. I've never read about an AWD Volvo with a failed rear diff. Thanks...called my mechanic and he's thinking the same thing. Anyone have luck with gluing the A pillar cloth liners back on to their foam...mine's starting to peel away from the windshield side and I'm wondering if there's a trick for that?
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Jul 21, 2016 22:24
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What transmission do you have FordPRefectLL?
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Jul 21, 2016 22:28
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the aw71, it's a 95 volvo 940 turbo
Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 21, 2016 22:52
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Those things are pretty stout, mine dumped most of it's transmission fluid on at least two occasions thanks to bad ATF coolant lines and continues to work fine. I'm not a pro car guy either but my dad postulated I could probably have replaced my transmission (also AW71, but in a 240) in an afternoon when I was having issues with it so I think it's not too bad of a job.
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Jul 21, 2016 23:06
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Oxphocker posted:Thanks...called my mechanic and he's thinking the same thing. You have a few options: 1. They come out pretty easy so you can re-glue them with some good spray adhesive. Search swedespeed or youtube for a removal guide, there's one tricky clip. 2. You can replace the cloth with a different cloth, lots of guys are doing suede or faux-suede. 3. You can replace them with early P2 pillar covers from a junkyard or partout that are solid plastic and have no cloth.
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Jul 22, 2016 08:18
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well, it took the better part of 2 days in 115F arizona heat but my 940 is functional again $200 used transmission dont do me wrong oh i finally also killed off the squealing in the AC belt + put in an entirely new wiring harness for the rear speed sensor which fixed the speedometer and the cruise control Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jul 24, 2016 |
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Jul 24, 2016 22:55
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oh and we built a transmission lift adapter out of wood 
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Jul 25, 2016 00:06
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Then the battery died
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Jul 27, 2016 16:47
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A local Volvo guy lost his storage and is selling a solid Amazon wagon shell with a lot of blasted and primed body panels, the glass, and some interior pieces for $1500. It doesn't have a drivetrain but one of my coworkers runs a Miata racing shop, so I'm thinking about picking it up, finishing the body work, and swapping in a Miata 1.8L and the corresponding transmission. Terrible idea or best idea? 
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Aug 2, 2016 17:50
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zundfolge posted:A local Volvo guy lost his storage and is selling a solid Amazon wagon shell with a lot of blasted and primed body panels, the glass, and some interior pieces for $1500. It doesn't have a drivetrain but one of my coworkers runs a Miata racing shop, so I'm thinking about picking it up, finishing the body work, and swapping in a Miata 1.8L and the corresponding transmission. Do it. I bet the wheelbase is pretty close to boot.
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Aug 2, 2016 17:54
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Amazing idea. Turbo the BP or even left alone it would be pretty sweet. If the wheelbase is pretty close (and you have some fab skills), fit the miata suspension and subframes.  Lloyd will chime in and say this isn't possible for whatever reason, but it would be cool.
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Aug 2, 2016 18:34
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LloydDobler posted:2. You can replace the cloth with a different cloth, lots of guys are doing suede or faux-suede. this is what I did, but I used a leather-print vinyl from JoAnn's. It has the same grain texture that almost matches the other plastics and the dark grey color looks better, to me, than the factory light grey. On my 04, the C and D pillar covers are all dark, now my A is dark too. This leaves the B looking light grey, a bit odd. Probably I won't do anything about it. I used spray adhesive and plastic glue, it came out pretty good and after a few years is still holding up well.
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Aug 2, 2016 19:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Do it. I bet the wheelbase is pretty close to boot. Larrymer posted:Amazing idea. Turbo the BP or even left alone it would be pretty sweet. If the wheelbase is pretty close (and you have some fab skills), fit the miata suspension and subframes. The wheelbase of the Amazon is about a foot longer than a Miata but it only weighs about 100lbs more so I doubt even a NA BP would have any trouble towing it around. However, a couple other options have come into the picture. A friend has a B230 16V conversion with a T5 transmission that he's looking to sell, and there are adapter plates available to use the Amazon engine mounts with the B230, so that would be about as close to a bolt-in option as I could find for this car. The other option is a GM LE5/AR5 drivetrain from a Pontiac Solstice with only 8000 miles on it. The seller of the Amazon has it and he would be willing to sell it as a package with the car. There are standalone wiring harnesses for the GM PCM available off the shelf, so that would greatly simplify the wiring aspect if I wanted to go EFI, but it would definitely require some custom fab work and it's a forward sump so I'm not sure if it would work with the Amazon front crossmember. I'm going to go look at the car this weekend so I imagine I'll have a better idea of what it needs after that. This is the first time I've thought about taking on something of this scale, but I've wanted to for a while and I feel like either of the above drivetrain options would make for a fun finished product.
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Aug 3, 2016 15:49
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This popped up near me, I think I'll try to check it out and see if they'll come down on the price at all http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/5708139921.html
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Aug 4, 2016 19:29
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BraveUlysses posted:This popped up near me, I think I'll try to check it out and see if they'll come down on the price at all Looks good, it might need some GDCS parts judging by the condition of the coolant tank but none of that stuff is terribly difficult to replace.
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Aug 5, 2016 15:06
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Larrymer posted:Amazing idea. Turbo the BP or even left alone it would be pretty sweet. If the wheelbase is pretty close (and you have some fab skills), fit the miata suspension and subframes. Why would I do that? http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?200827-P1800ES-Restomod-Project-Starts/page2
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Aug 7, 2016 10:30
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LloydDobler posted:Why would I do that? http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?200827-P1800ES-Restomod-Project-Starts/page2 Instead you tricked me into reading another thread.  Kidding, that looks awesome.
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Aug 7, 2016 15:50
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 That's amazing. I looked at the Amazon wagon yesterday, it's a really clean shell with only the slightest surface rust. One of the quarter panels has a dent in it and the roof has some old filler or something in a couple spots, but on the whole the bodywork seems manageable. I'd really like to buy it but I need to see whether I can get rid of at least one of my P80 projects first.
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Aug 7, 2016 21:02
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I bought the Amazon!  I already feel like I'm in over my head! 
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Aug 13, 2016 22:36
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Been having a weird issue with my 1999 C70 T5Ms boost control. In 5th gear (possibly other gears but it's most noticeable in 5th) at WOT and around 3k rpm the turbo will constantly spool up and down, with pressure varying between 16 and 21(!) psi (according to Torque, which has kinda crap refresh rates) The car does have a tune and I'm used to seeing around 16-18psi normally but this is worrying me. I'm going to check all the vacuum lines today at lunch. Could a torn wastegate actuator diaphragm or busted CBV be causing this?
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Aug 16, 2016 12:50
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Terrible Robot posted:Been having a weird issue with my 1999 C70 T5Ms boost control. In 5th gear (possibly other gears but it's most noticeable in 5th) at WOT and around 3k rpm the turbo will constantly spool up and down, with pressure varying between 16 and 21(!) psi (according to Torque, which has kinda crap refresh rates) The car does have a tune and I'm used to seeing around 16-18psi normally but this is worrying me. I'm going to check all the vacuum lines today at lunch. Could a torn wastegate actuator diaphragm or busted CBV be causing this? Both sound feasible. Build a little boost leak tester and see what you find.
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Aug 16, 2016 14:25
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All the vac lines are silicone and look to be in excellent shape, I also tightened all the pipe clamps I could reach but none of those seemed especially loose either. Gonna pick up a mightyvac and make sure the WG setting is correct.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:08
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Also if you bought one of the "HD" turbo control valves from IPD or ARD the ME7 system in these cars absolutely hates those valves, go stock and stick to stock if you haven't upgraded.
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Aug 16, 2016 19:08
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LloydDobler posted:Also if you bought one of the "HD" turbo control valves from IPD or ARD the ME7 system in these cars absolutely hates those valves, go stock and stick to stock if you haven't upgraded. Oh? I have not heard this before; the PO basically shotgunned every IPD part available onto this car and the HD solenoid was part of that. Will the solenoid out of my 855 work?
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Aug 16, 2016 19:37
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hello volvo spergs can you help me out? The valve? solenoid? (thing? it's got a spring inside.) i've put a red box around is currently held together with electrical tape on my 2004 XC70. I cannot for the life of me find it on any of the parts sites. The gently caress is it?!
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Aug 16, 2016 23:13
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Ran into a 2010 s80 today. Took it for a test drive, accelerates, brakes, and handles good. Not a salvage title, no accidents on car report (it's the experian one, not a carfax), dealer is offering 4 months/4500 mile power train warranty. He's got it priced at $7500. Check engine light was on. Should I investigate further or is this guy trying to pull one over on me?
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Aug 17, 2016 03:14
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Terrible Robot posted:Oh? I have not heard this before; the PO basically shotgunned every IPD part available onto this car and the HD solenoid was part of that. Will the solenoid out of my 855 work? Doubt it unless it's the exact same part number and config as the stock valve. You want the stock "Pierburg" valve. There is also an HD Pierburg valve that works well too, it's just got a higher temp rating or something. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-boost-pressure-valve-c70-s70-s80-v70-9155936?gclid=CNyz6ajUx84CFQobaQodQMwCUQ Not saying this is the cause of your problem for sure, but it has been known to play hell with tuned cars. Something about the way it reacts to input. literally a fish posted:hello volvo spergs can you help me out? I can't find it myself right now but I've seen threads about it before, it's a common failure. If you ask on swedespeed someone will point you in the exact right direction. Q-sixtysix posted:Check engine light was on. is this guy trying to pull one over on me? You're kind of answering your own question here. If he calls you claiming to have fixed the CEL you need to drive it around for an hour or more to make sure it doesn't come right back on. Also you need to see paperwork on what it was and how it was fixed. CELs can be anything from needing a new gas cap to needing a new exhaust (guess how much modern Volvo exhausts cost, even aftermarket...) Also you don't tell us anything about what mileage, engine or option packages the car has. Your post is basically why "help me buy a car" threads are bannable here. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 06:03
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Q-sixtysix posted:Ran into a 2010 s80 today. Took it for a test drive, accelerates, brakes, and handles good. Not a salvage title, no accidents on car report (it's the experian one, not a carfax), dealer is offering 4 months/4500 mile power train warranty. I wouldn't trust dealer warranty without doing my homework. I got offered that once, looked up the company that the warranty goes through and found that it's a massive pain to get anything from them. So if it's just thrown in, why not. But I wouldn't accept it as a sales argument and pay for it.
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Aug 17, 2016 10:11
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