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What colour? The white and grey really needs leaving a good 12 hrs then its bulletproof
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Jul 8, 2016 18:02
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Skarsnik posted:What colour? The white and grey really needs leaving a good 12 hrs then its bulletproof The white and grey are the ones that I usually have problems with - my black primer generally seems to be fine. I usually let it sit 24 hours though. Maybe the bottles are going bad? I don't remember having problems with them when I first got them, only in the last few weeks. I've only had the bottles for 3-4 months though.
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Jul 8, 2016 18:37
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Yeast posted:On the recommendation of this thread I bought some Vallejo metal Air  Another convert. They give an amazing finish without the hassle of being alcohol based.
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Jul 8, 2016 18:40
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Southern Heel posted:How would you suggest? A glaze? Mixing a midtone with some medium and painting a line between the highlight and lower level? I'm a bit upset on reflection that the red looks so flat, there's three layers of highlights on that too! I touch all mine up with the base color. So my guys are Macragge Blue, highlighted with Guilliman Blue, and then I use Macragge Blue again to clean them up, pretty simple.
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Jul 8, 2016 18:50
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imperialparadox posted:The white and grey are the ones that I usually have problems with - my black primer generally seems to be fine. I usually let it sit 24 hours though. You're probably not shaking them enough then, try sticking a bead or bit of resin in the bottle
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Jul 8, 2016 19:04
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Are those Vallejo air metallic paints any good to use with a paintbrush? I like the Liquid Gold line, but I'd like to have more options for silver than just silver.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:15
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Skarsnik posted:You're probably not shaking them enough then, try sticking a bead or bit of resin in the bottle Where's a good place to get beads small enough for standard dropper bottles?
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Jul 8, 2016 19:18
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Star Man posted:Are those Vallejo air metallic paints any good to use with a paintbrush? I like the Liquid Gold line, but I'd like to have more options for silver than just silver. That's how I've used all of mine. I've been paranoid and washed my brush immediately once I'm done with them, because they are seriously pigment-dense, but otherwise they've been just like really nice versions of regular Vallejo for me. I am also probably being over-cautious, for what it's worth.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:25
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Cat Face Joe posted:Where's a good place to get beads small enough for standard dropper bottles? I'll let others answer that as I've always used bits of resin, also Cardiff has multiple bead shops Whole shops full of bloody beads 
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Jul 8, 2016 19:26
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grassy gnoll posted:That's how I've used all of mine. I've been paranoid and washed my brush immediately once I'm done with them, because they are seriously pigment-dense, but otherwise they've been just like really nice versions of regular Vallejo for me. I am also probably being over-cautious, for what it's worth. That's good. I'll have to get a few of them when I get paid next week. I don't have the space or ventilation for airbrushing and probably won't for years to come.
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Jul 8, 2016 19:44
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From the 40k thread, my Kroot pack finished up today, plus a hound.    My entire little force so far  
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Jul 8, 2016 22:45
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I was planning on starting up some Mordheim this year but the return of Bloodbowl put me off of that for now. I found a copy of the third edition on ebay for cheap and have almost finished painting the human team, all that's left is the varnishing and the base. Firstly - I was planning on ordering some Vallejo Matt and Gloss varnish since I don't trust spray cans. I assume I just brush it on straight out of the bottle, right? Does it need to be shaken like the paints do? Secondly - any suggestions on the base? I'm painting to a tabletop standard (or as close as I can get) so i'm not looking to go very detailed. I was looking into galeforce 9 static grass or maybe the summer grass flock. Ideally i'd like to base all of my blood bowl teams so they look like the human team here  but i'm not sure how to do that. Thanks.
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Jul 8, 2016 22:47
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MrFlibble posted:Firstly - I was planning on ordering some Vallejo Matt and Gloss varnish since I don't trust spray cans. I assume I just brush it on straight out of the bottle, right? Does it need to be shaken like the paints do? For the bases, I'd glue sand on the bases, paint it brown and then highlight it a few times. Then you just cover as much of it as you like in PVA glue and add static grass. Finally, pin the figures to the bases. If you're planning to cover the bases completely with grass, you can just paint the base brown, then add grass to skip a few steps.
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Jul 8, 2016 23:06
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:My entire little force so far Thoughts on the wargameexclusive Cmdr Shadowcleavage there? The figs look okay, and I'm thinking of placing an order if/when they start selling those brilliant hover bike drones.
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Jul 8, 2016 23:10
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Electric Hobo posted:Shake the varnish, then thin it a bit with water. You want a thin layer even if it's basically a clear paint, and the water will help it go on smoothly and evenly. Thanks for the tips. I'll probably cover the whole base in grass, I like the professional field look.
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Jul 8, 2016 23:16
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Nichol posted:Thoughts on the wargameexclusive Cmdr Shadowcleavage there? The figs look okay, and I'm thinking of placing an order if/when they start selling those brilliant hover bike drones. Really really nice quality, very clean and crisp casts with almost no clean up required. I've got Big Shas as well and was super impressed with both of them. 10/10 will buy again (also looking forward to those awesome drone-bikes).
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Jul 8, 2016 23:19
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I picked up some Orks for a side project, and I was hoping to get a quick opinion poll going: is it better to use a black, brown, or green ink on Ork flesh? They'll be Deathskulls if that helps.
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Jul 8, 2016 23:57
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PantsOptional posted:I picked up some Orks for a side project, and I was hoping to get a quick opinion poll going: is it better to use a black, brown, or green ink on Ork flesh? They'll be Deathskulls if that helps. GW Athonian Camoshade IMO, it's sort of a brownish-green rather than some of the brighter greens.
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Jul 9, 2016 00:26
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Don't use black unless you're doing blacklining or small targeted washes on the eye sockets or mouth to add more depth.
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Jul 9, 2016 00:45
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I used to use badab black over knarloc green for my orks and they were pretty ok imo. Try some test models and see what works best for you. Edit found examples in another post         
Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jul 9, 2016 |
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Jul 9, 2016 01:04
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:GW Athonian Camoshade IMO, it's sort of a brownish-green rather than some of the brighter greens. gently caress me, I had no idea this existed. Will definitely give it a shot.
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Jul 9, 2016 01:07
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PantsOptional posted:gently caress me, I had no idea this existed. Will definitely give it a shot. I like it a lot, I find it really versatile much like Agrax Earthshade. It's been my go-to for all my jungle Tau/Kroot.
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Jul 9, 2016 01:15
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Fyrbrand posted:I used to use badab black over knarloc green for my orks and they were pretty ok imo. Try some test models and see what works best for you. I think you mean MY orks.  On the subject of shades: I tried doing my shading/washing with the airbrush and I LOVE it. The results came out very clean, with no messy pooling. The air forces the shade into the crevices. I dabbed the model (moderately aggressively) with a paper towel as I went. Only downside is that burns through the wash fairly quickly. I think the results were worth it. This technique was used on that Stormcast Eternal I posted last page.
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Jul 9, 2016 06:57
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Southern Heel posted:Perry Miniatures figures, Vallejo colour paint set, Daylight lamp, W&N brush set - all delivered via Amazon Prime to my office today. I've came home early and didn't bring them. Hey - can I ask what daylight lamp you bought? I need to get one for my painting and my Wife's knitting! Cheers
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Jul 9, 2016 15:54
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PantsOptional posted:I picked up some Orks for a side project, and I was hoping to get a quick opinion poll going: is it better to use a black, brown, or green ink on Ork flesh? They'll be Deathskulls if that helps. Try blue ink/wash over a yellow base. Depending on the yellow you use you can get beautifully shaded greens ranging from olive to emerald to deep forest.
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Jul 9, 2016 17:29
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Way I saw it done was two layers of green wash and one brown on yellow base for a fairly impressive Ork skin. Bonus points if you're also going for yellow armor - you can just not wash green on the armor and the brown wash will shade it.
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Jul 9, 2016 17:45
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Drake_263 posted:Way I saw it done was two layers of green wash and one brown on yellow base for a fairly impressive Ork skin. Bonus points if you're also going for yellow armor - you can just not wash green on the armor and the brown wash will shade it. This sounds really fun for some reason. It makes me want to dig up a D&D orc or something similar.
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Jul 9, 2016 18:02
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GoodBee posted:This sounds really fun for some reason. It makes me want to dig up a D&D orc or something similar. I can't find the tutorial but if I was to start an Ork army, that's how I'd do it - prime yellow (the brighter the better), wash the skin/flesh one or two times with a green wash, pick out the metal and detail colors, wash the whole mini with brown, clean up/highlight a bit. They're orks, the more simple you get the better since there'll be a metric fuckton of them.
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Jul 9, 2016 19:44
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Drake_263 posted:I can't find the tutorial but if I was to start an Ork army, that's how I'd do it - prime yellow (the brighter the better), wash the skin/flesh one or two times with a green wash, pick out the metal and detail colors, wash the whole mini with brown, clean up/highlight a bit. They're orks, the more simple you get the better since there'll be a metric fuckton of them. That's pretty much how Cataphract paints her Orks, it works pretty well. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3636853&userid=63555#post430156558
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Jul 9, 2016 19:54
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Zark the Damned posted:That's pretty much how Cataphract paints her Orks, it works pretty well. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3636853&userid=63555#post430156558 Those may or may not actually be the exact Orks I was thinking about!
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Jul 9, 2016 20:36
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To add to airbrush chat: I have the Iwata Neo (two of them). Absolutely great airbrush for much less than the entry level ones for other ranges. No idea what would improve paying for a more expensive brush unless you were getting a brush with different features. As a double action, gravity fed internal mix its perfect. Ive been using mine for about four years now and apart from replacing the nozzle and needle a couple of times they still function perfectly. I only had to replace parts that I had handled badly and would've had to replace on any model of airbrush. I kept doing stupid things, mostly out of laziness, and kept bending needles and scratching nozzles up, leaving paint to dry in it and scratching it out etc. Now I know what Im doing with handling and maintenance and it works as well as I can imagine any airbrush working. I decided to pick up the vallejo airbrush cleaner and vallejo thinner and they are both working magic. The airbrush cleaner is fantastic - letting my pull off paint with a soft toothpick that I was previously having to scratch away at using stiff bristles before. Both quality of life things you can definitely replicate with some trial and error with more household materials but Im much happier with their performance for the cost. Im painting an Imperial Knight at the moment and didnt oath it because I doubted Id get it done within a month. A couple of hours painting with a squeaky clean airbrush set up and Ive nearly finished it!
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Jul 9, 2016 22:05
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12 hours to paint and assemble 10 dwarf berserkers. and I've not even got around to their skin  Amphigory posted:Hey - can I ask what daylight lamp you bought? I need to get one for my painting and my Wife's knitting! Cheers Just a cheap generic table lamp with a magnifier from Amazon.
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Jul 9, 2016 23:48
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K, so far so good this badger patriot is the tits. Just starting to basecoat some 3d prints and it's nuts!
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Jul 10, 2016 00:27
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Today, I learned that I should not use gloss varnish on tanks.
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Jul 10, 2016 01:07
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Star Man posted:Today, I learned that I should not use gloss varnish on tanks.  May I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4
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Jul 10, 2016 01:10
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As long as the final varnish is matt you can use all the gloss you want I used a poo poo load on the last one I did as I was handling the thing so much
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Jul 10, 2016 01:12
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It's also used when you're using oil paints for weathering! But I suspect Star Man was referring to a final coat. And yeah. Blergh.
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Jul 10, 2016 01:16
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I'm just going over bad spots on the varnish with paint and I'm going to go over it again with matte. I need to pay Guiry's a visit when I get paid and get a Liquitex spray can of gloss and matte varnish. I just wish I had somewhere outside that I could spray.
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Jul 10, 2016 01:16
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Aren't you supposed to use one coat of gloss anyway, since gloss varnish is the best protection for a model?
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Jul 10, 2016 01:17
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Weird question: will I die (or will any other bad things happen) if I use a heat gun on a resin part I've superglued? Hair dryers and boiling water don't seem to be sufficient, and I ended up making a hairline fracture in the part that I superglued back together. I don't think I need to heat that exact area, but I will be heating around it.
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Jul 10, 2016 01:42
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