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azazello posted:Also, the CX-3 interior is very nice, the only drawback for me was that the driver seat is unpowered (unlike the CX-5). Are you sure this isn't available on the CX-3 at all or was just an option missing on the model you sat in?
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Jul 4, 2016 03:42
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Geoj posted:Are you sure this isn't available on the CX-3 at all or was just an option missing on the model you sat in? I was sitting in a loaded GT trim, so my understanding is that it's not available. I wouldn't be surprised if the space under the seat is too small to fit the motors/rails.
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Jul 4, 2016 05:01
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There's no option for a power seat listed on either the US or Canada page. Just 6-way manually adjustable.
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Jul 4, 2016 05:33
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My rear sway bar bracket broke, now I join the ranks of all the other JBR rear sway bar owners 
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Jul 6, 2016 00:58
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Sex Weirdo posted:Rear shocks are really easy on the mazda 3, especially with air or electric tools. There is one 17mm bolt on the bottom and two 13 or 14 mm nuts on top for each side. Thats all you need to take off to get the old shocks out. You'll probably have to transfer over the upper mount which is just one nut on the end of the piston. Thanks for this, I just replaced mine, and didn't even have to take the tires off. I mean, I needed to use ramps still and it would have been way easier with the tires off, but apparently my security lug nut and/or key are stripped enough that it keeps slipping off. I guess I'll need to take it in somewhere and have them replace those dumb security nuts with some regular lug nuts. Better to find out now than on the side of the road, I suppose.
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Jul 7, 2016 19:03
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Is there a particularly reputable dealership that sells parts online? I need a new serpentine belt. The local dealership wanted to sell me one for $50, and I found one dealer online listing it for $25.
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Jul 7, 2016 19:17
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I've used several online dealership storefronts over the years, most recently got a cabin air filter from Med Center Mazda.
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Jul 7, 2016 19:31
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Gah. It appears my luck has run out with the whole "Hey my car is reliable and I don't gotta do poo poo to it anymore!" Front CV shaft is worn Front brakes need replacing Back left spring is broken and rattling like a motherfucker Tranny fluid is black Just swapped the CV shaft, 1600 bucks. Don't wanna think about how much the springs are gonna cost. And even worse, the dealer is telling me the shocks that I JUST replaced are too soft and contributed to the spring breaking. Goddammit.
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Jul 9, 2016 03:15
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There is nothing "too soft" shocks could do to contribute to a broken spring. That's the dealer giving you FUD to try and convince you that only they can service your car.
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Jul 9, 2016 03:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:There is nothing "too soft" shocks could do to contribute to a broken spring. That's the dealer giving you FUD to try and convince you that only they can service your car. I'm not surprised by that. FFS it's a 7 year old economy car with multiple models based off the same platform, it's not THAT rare that a dealership has to do it.
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Jul 9, 2016 03:30
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Just got the MS3 back from the shop. The whole roof was covered in rusty stone chips, the clips that hold the black plastic rails running down each side of the roof were starting to rust and there was a bit of rust starting in the seam sealer near the boot hinges too. Cost $500 to get the rust dealt with and the whole roof resprayed which I thought was more than reasonable given how good the car looks now. The guy in the shop says he sees similar vintage Mazdas with similar problems all the time - seldom anything serious (we generally don't get terminal rust here) but lots of annoying cosmetic stuff.
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Jul 9, 2016 04:18
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dissss posted:seldom anything serious (we generally don't get terminal rust here) but lots of annoying cosmetic stuff. My 09 3 hatch had a few chips when I bought her and I've been insanely paranoid about rust cancer ever since. I didn't do a respray but I did go to some trouble to get the chips repaired and I'm super glad she's parked in an underground garage now instead of out in the elements. She gets a wash every other weekend whether she needs it or not, especially once the weather starts to turn. I feel like I worry about winter more than the Starks did. --- I know this is ridiculously vain but is there anywhere I can buy a Mazda logo that would replace the one in the middle of my steering wheel? Whatever was covering the plastic has started to fleck off and it just annoys me every time I look at it. Wonder how hard this would be to get and swap out.
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Jul 9, 2016 16:20
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At 62k miles on my 2008 speed3, I'm ready to do the suspension. Comfort first, performance a very close second. I'm currently leaning towards the Bilstein b6's with stock springs, has anyone ridden in a car with the b6's or the b8's with some lower springs? How did they feel?
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Jul 18, 2016 06:59
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My '13 MS3 is on Bilstein B8's and Swift springs. In terms of comfort, it's as good, possibly better than stock. There's no harshness at all. Handling is really good, though I think high speed damping could be stiffer.
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Jul 19, 2016 00:40
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Word. Any reason why you went with swift springs rather than bilstein pro kit? Any pics of your setup? Curious if the gen 2 has the same issue as the gen 1 with the front sitting higher than the rear on the b8s. I think I can live with it either way. If you have time to go over the other parts you used as well that would be greatly appreciated (camber arms, boots, etc).
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Jul 19, 2016 01:03
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At the time, the internet led me to believe that the Swift springs were the way to go. And I'm not unhappy with them; I just think they're a bit stiffer than my struts can handle at high speeds. The total package I went with was: Bilstein B8 struts Swift Spec-R springs Whiteline bumpsteer kit Whiteline LCA front bushings Whiteline LCA rear bushings JBR rear camber arms JBR rear toe arms Pic is the day the suspension was installed back in February (thus the road salt). It may have settled a tiny bit in the front. Overall, the car's ride height looks very balanced to me. http://imgur.com/a/MwNgJ
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Jul 22, 2016 02:20
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In my years of ownership I have not been kind to the little plastic lip thing under the front bumper of the 1st gen ms3. Is there something I can replace it with, maybe made out of urethane and more durable?
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Jul 22, 2016 18:02
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Every time I pull into a parking spot and heat the slooooow scrape as it crunches that stupid concrete block... A part of me dies.
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Jul 22, 2016 18:13
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MourningGlory posted:At the time, the internet led me to believe that the Swift springs were the way to go. And I'm not unhappy with them; I just think they're a bit stiffer than my struts can handle at high speeds. Thanks. Did you decide on the toe arms, lca bushings and bumpsteer kit just because you were already in there? I ordered the b12 kit (b8s with eibach springs) because a lot of people say that the b8s feels under damped with swift springs, like you said. Also adding spc rca's, and some new rear bumpstops. Also, I found a thread on msf stating that you can use 2014 Ford focus hats and bearings, which are better than rock auto or the oem mazdas apparently. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f12/affordable-redesigned-top-hats-struts-mounts-bearings-202478/
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Jul 22, 2016 18:54
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So I took my car in to the dealer today for the 72,000KM/32 Month service where they do an oil change, tire rotation and brake cleaning thing. They came back to me and told me my Front Brake Pads are in trouble and down to like 3mm and won't survive till the next service and my rears are down as well but can hold out a bit longer. They quoted me $550 to replace the pads rotors and attachment thing (Whatever that is) on the front and $523 for the rear. They also recommended a brake fluid flush for 127. They also said I should look at replacing my tires because they found nails in the front tire (WTF) but they didn't puncture so it's still good. Are they trying to rip me off here? I had this car since April 2014 I really can't see why I need to dump all this money into it now.
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Jul 22, 2016 22:40
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Call around town for some quotes or watch YouTube and do it yourself
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Jul 22, 2016 22:46
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Yeah that's a major ripoff. We're talking about maybe $150 in parts for pads & rotors on all four corners if you DIY, and an honest independent shop will probably charge you a third to a half of that at most. Brake pads are the easiest thing to do on most cars after tire rotation and oil changes.
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Jul 22, 2016 23:23
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Are you actually at 72k km? Even that seems way early for rotors unless you are doing a lot of daily stomping. Get a second opinion on all of it, $127 fluid flushes are a good sign that they think you are a sucker they can push to do un-needed things.
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Jul 22, 2016 23:48
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No, right now I'm at 68320. I bought this car brand new and really didn't expect to be almost 1000 dollars in the hole for repairs. I'm definitely gonna look for someone independent to deal with this.
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Jul 22, 2016 23:50
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I got rotors and pads for the MS6 for under $200 and did the work myself.
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Jul 23, 2016 00:06
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Rhyno posted:I got rotors and pads for the MS6 for under $200 and did the work myself. If you want to get crazy, add $100 for some harbor freight tools like a floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some break lube and you're good. Be aware that you might have to build some little ramps out of wood to fit the jack under there of its an ms
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Jul 23, 2016 00:31
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Google Butt posted:If you want to get crazy, add $100 for some harbor freight tools like a floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some break lube and you're good. Be aware that you might have to build some little ramps out of wood to fit the jack under there of its an ms Spend the extra money and get the HF low profile floor jack. I have to drive my ms3 up onto a 2x4 under each front tire to fit the regular HF floor jack under the car.
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Jul 23, 2016 00:36
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MetaJew posted:Spend the extra money and get the HF low profile floor jack. I have to drive my ms3 up onto a 2x4 under each front tire to fit the regular HF floor jack under the car. That works too
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Jul 23, 2016 00:38
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Even with a dealer here that I liked, it was absolutely a rip off (tires are especially bad). I can't speak to your vehicle or that dealer, but in general they will always be more expensive for average work. If it's under warranty, go for it, otherwise call around or do it yourself. Edit: beaten
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Jul 23, 2016 00:44
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Google Butt posted:If you want to get crazy, add $100 for some harbor freight tools like a floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some break lube and you're good. Be aware that you might have to build some little ramps out of wood to fit the jack under there of its an ms Oh yes, sorry. I was assuming that he had tools.
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Jul 23, 2016 05:50
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Oh wow I have 79,000 miles (127,000km) and I still probably have about 50% pad left. That's crazy.
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Jul 23, 2016 09:57
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Google Butt posted:Thanks. Did you decide on the toe arms, lca bushings and bumpsteer kit just because you were already in there? I ordered the b12 kit (b8s with eibach springs) because a lot of people say that the b8s feels under damped with swift springs, like you said. Also adding spc rca's, and some new rear bumpstops.
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Jul 23, 2016 13:09
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I have 130000km, on mine, did the front rotors/pads at 30k and they're just ready to go now. I think you're being taken for a ride bud. The dealer did the same thing to me last time when I got my CV shaft changed, told me my brand new rear struts were too weak and not "OEM spec". Blow me.
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Jul 23, 2016 15:06
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Oh hey the Ebay seller that had that same exhaust I talked about emailed me back finally. "After additional research it would appear that this exhaust system does not fit your vehicle and we would advise against you purchasing one." So good thing I didn't waste my time driving to get that one.
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Jul 26, 2016 05:05
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Anyone installed rear camber and a gen one? About to start the job and I'm dreading the passenger side. Any tips getting that bolt out?
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Jul 31, 2016 20:11
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Google Butt posted:Any tips getting that bolt out? I hope you have a ratcheting box wrench, even with one it took me the better part of a half hour to remove. There's nothing you can do but be patient with it, there's basically enough room to get two or three teeth advanced on the ratchet at a time and the bolt is (as usual) substantially longer than it needs to be.
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Jul 31, 2016 21:22
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Geoj posted:I hope you have a ratcheting box wrench, even with one it took me the better part of a half hour to remove. There's nothing you can do but be patient with it, there's basically enough room to get two or three teeth advanced on the ratchet at a time and the bolt is (as usual) substantially longer than it needs to be. It took me 1.5 hours to get the passenger side done. May god have mercy on your soul if you do this job on gen one.
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Aug 1, 2016 05:40
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Another question while I'm at it.. Has anyone gone from the stock 215/45r18 to 225/40r18 with roughly a 1" drop? How did they feel? I've got my eye on pilot super sports and they don't come in 215/45r18 :/
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Aug 1, 2016 08:43
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MourningGlory posted:My '13 MS3 is on Bilstein B8's and Swift springs. In terms of comfort, it's as good, possibly better than stock. There's no harshness at all. Handling is really good, though I think high speed damping could be stiffer.
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Aug 1, 2016 19:46
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I'm at ~116,000 miles on my 2006 3 (non-Speed). Should I be looking at shocks and struts (as best as I can tell they're not leaking) and if so are these recommendations the same for the non-Speed? Yeah it's probably time to do them, along with your bump stops and strut mounts. If it isn't a performance car, I would definitely seek out a softer option. I hear that for the ms3, the koni fsd are the most comfortable option, not sure if they are available on the regular 3 of that year.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:02
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