|
Foolster41 posted:
Oh no! You're meeting all my standards!!
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 14:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 09:42 |
|
|
SRM posted:These guys own. That wood grain is to die for, and those glowing runes are sick. Mugaaz posted:These guys are sweet, how do you do the wood grain? Thanks dudes. Mugaaz: I mostly relied on the sculptor's hard work. The wood grain is sculpted in. So, white primer -> thin coat of of GW Steel Legion Drab -> Agrax wash. I might have went back over in places with the SLD, but to be honest I can't remember. Usually the wood looks good after the wash, and I don't want to accidentally get paint in the recessed areas that were just shaded.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 14:41
|
|
|
Yeast posted:
Another satisfied customer. Another small part of this planet poisoned. Given that you're restoring praetorians, the best IG regiment ever sculpted I think that is a fair price.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 14:41
|
|
|
I put a wash over a completely dry paint job and now there's recesses where it looks like I just washed over the primer. Like the paint was pushed out or wiped away by the wash. Both the paint and the was are Army Painter. Has anyone ever had this issue before?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 14:45
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:I put a wash over a completely dry paint job and now there's recesses where it looks like I just washed over the primer. Like the paint was pushed out or wiped away by the wash. Both the paint and the was are Army Painter. Has anyone ever had this issue before? I had that happened to be recently, with paints/washes that weren't doing it before. I don't know what caused it though, I just started sealing stuff before I washed it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 16:03
|
|
|
imperialparadox posted:I like these guys, they are bright and very clean. Thanks! I took this photo straight after spray varnishing, since then I added some static grass. I don't own any clump foliage so far, it's on my buy list.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 16:13
|
|
|
Well gently caress I just got three boxes of Avatars of War dwarfs and thought 'hey cool, these dudes are already off their sprues in baggies - they're packaged so neatly!' until I realised it was restic satan material. It is NO FUN to pose two arms and a two-handed weapon simultaneously with a material which only sticks with superglue. gently caress. On the bright side, this 'SPECIAL LIMITED OFFER' of thirty for 20ish GBP means I've got two 20-man regiments on a scenic base without too much hard work. Speaking of scenic bases, I'm trying Vallejo Dark Earth (to get away from the flatness of MDF) and using 20mm bases as paving slabs. I hope with some decent amount of static grass and some tufts, it might look pretty neat. I'm going to try sporadic 'heather' tufts for a suitably border-marches look: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 21:43
|
|
|
Southern Heel posted:Well gently caress I just got three boxes of Avatars of War dwarfs and thought 'hey cool, these dudes are already off their sprues in baggies - they're packaged so neatly!' until I realised it was restic satan material. It is NO FUN to pose two arms and a two-handed weapon simultaneously with a material which only sticks with superglue. gently caress. Pin them?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 22:17
|
|
|
imperialparadox posted:I had that happened to be recently, with paints/washes that weren't doing it before. I don't know what caused it though, I just started sealing stuff before I washed it. A second wash layer darkened it. Fortunately it's not in prominent areas.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 22:26
|
|
|
Gel superglue handles restic surprisingly well. Hold it in place until it grips, then let it stand for about an hour before handling it again.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2016 23:26
|
|
|
Shady Anachro and I finished these guys up today. From Zombicide. Goal is to finish the set before moving on to Black Plague, at which point I may submit an Oath post. (yeah I know it's supposed to be Michael Douglas from Falling Down but I wanted racial diversity in my games)   (the chick from NCIS)       At this point we're playing around with different techniques, like glazing and finishes, so the models look a little messy but I'm happy with how they turned out. Especially the abomination which I used three different layers; base in yellow/pink, purple/red/blue ink for brusing/veins, and thin white glazing. After that I used a little bit of pearl mixed in with satin finish to give the skin a sweaty look.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 05:55
|
|
|
A local store finally got some Tamiya paints in, so I bought a set of translucents and some thinner. Anything I should know before I destroy my models/brushes/brain using them?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 15:27
|
|
|
Foolster41 posted:
My kids are really into Undertale and I would love to do up one of these. What's the miniature itself (or, more likely, the conversion bits)?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 16:43
|
|
|
PantsOptional posted:My kids are really into Undertale and I would love to do up one of these. What's the miniature itself (or, more likely, the conversion bits)? https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/skeleton%20axe/latest/77347 https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/skeleton/latest/77346 https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/skeleton/latest/77348
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 17:24
|
|
|
PantsOptional posted:My kids are really into Undertale and I would love to do up one of these. What's the miniature itself (or, more likely, the conversion bits)? Indolent Bastard posted:https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/skeleton%20axe/latest/77347 Beat me to it. this.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:32
|
|
|
I haven't painted anything in a good 18 months or so, and even then most of the models I was painting were already primed from well before that. I'm trying to re-engage my painting hobby with different models, and need to prime them. Is this the stuff I should be using? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Gray-Sandable-Primer-Spray-Paint-249415/205751605 I tried a pair of test models last night, and they feel much, much smoother to the touch than my older primed models. I thought that primer was supposed to make them rough so the paint would catch on the model, but could be wrong - do I have the wrong stuff?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:46
|
|
|
I use Duplicolor Sandable Primer, so I'd guess that would work the same way. They should never feel gritty.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:48
|
|
|
Anyone have anything to say about Harder and Steenbeck? They have a 2 in 1 (0.2mm and 0.4mm) H and S in the shop. They also have Badger (including the renegades) but they are a significant step up in price and only come with a single needle/nozzle set.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
The slightly rougher texture that's meant to grip paint is practically microscopic, not something you should be able to easily discern by touch or eyesight. Personally I use Krylon spray primer for most of my stuff, I always found Rustoleum to go on a little thick.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:50
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:Pin them? Maybe I am alone in that my hobby time is not so much limited as spread among many things: no way I'm going to drill and pin the arms and hands on 70 dwarfs.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:59
|
|
|
SRM posted:The slightly rougher texture that's meant to grip paint is practically microscopic, not something you should be able to easily discern by touch or eyesight. Personally I use Krylon spray primer for most of my stuff, I always found Rustoleum to go on a little thick. So the sandpaper-like texture I have from the GW primer I'd been using isn't the end goal? Huh. The more you know... Thanks 
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 19:11
|
|
|
Zhent posted:So the sandpaper-like texture I have from the GW primer I'd been using isn't the end goal? Huh. The more you know... That's either bad primer, humidity, or being too far away from your model (paint drying before it hits the surface.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 20:30
|
|
|
So I ended up getting a Hadross starter set for Wrath of Kings. I also picked up the Orsund Cavalier model, which is really awesome but I have no idea how to base him. Anyone have any tips for doing a good ocean themed base? For reference, here's the box art: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 22:42
|
|
|
CommissarRed posted:So I ended up getting a Hadross starter set for Wrath of Kings. I also picked up the Orsund Cavalier model, which is really awesome but I have no idea how to base him. He'd look pretty cool with some mangled body/corpse bits spilling out of his maw
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 22:53
|
|
|
Electric Hobo posted:A local store finally got some Tamiya paints in, so I bought a set of translucents and some thinner. Anything I should know before I destroy my models/brushes/brain using them? They don't react well with non-solvent based paints or thinners, or retarders. So don't go adding crackle mediums or fun stuff like that or it will all turn to gloopy poo poo. I use it on my night lords to tint their hands red - straight out of the pot onto the metallic, then once dry I matt varnish them.  Also, use a synthetic not-important brush.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 23:54
|
|
|
I'm gonna need to paint some metallic reds before long. Am I better served getting VMA metallics in the appropriate colors or just using what I have now with metallic medium?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 00:30
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I'm gonna need to paint some metallic reds before long. Am I better served getting VMA metallics in the appropriate colors or just using what I have now with metallic medium? Actual metallics would be the better approach for most people. I've used Vallejo metallic medium, and it does an ok job - but gives a creamy more hazy satiny metallic as the end result. Which is fine if that's the look you're going for. Also, consider transparent paints over a silver metallic base. Absurdly easy, with good results.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 00:50
|
|
|
My favorite way to paint metallic armour is to use regular colors and then highlight over them using metallic silvers and white golds. Vallejo metallic medium is great for this sort of thing. You get a more realistic effect than line highlights, but it doesn't pop as much so it's also a stylistic choice. If you combine the two techniques (line highlights along with metallic ones) you get this cool half cartoony grimdark look. It's the style I'm working towards nailing down.   The other great way is exactly like Yeast describes. Use washes, glazes, filters, or whatever transparent paint you want over metallic bases. With a zenithal prime it's criminally easy and looks ace:   
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 01:20
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I'm gonna need to paint some metallic reds before long. Am I better served getting VMA metallics in the appropriate colors or just using what I have now with metallic medium?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 01:38
|
|
|
Are these 30k dudes? That facemask is pretty awesome.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:04
|
|
|
I painted a plastic Axer to replace the old derpy metal one for my Trollbloods. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:06
|
|
|
Yep. Just plain old MK3 armour E: God drat that looks great. How'd you do the weathered effect on the metal plates?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:06
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Yep. Just plain old MK3 armour Thanks! It's a metal basecoat washed with Nuln Oil, then a heavily thinned orange. I stippled some other shades of orange and red just for shits and giggles. Drybrush with the metallic, then tie it altogether with Agrax Earthshade. I did a highlight drybrush with a lighter shade too. It's work intensive but comes out pretty decent imo. Substitute in a jade blue wash instead of orange to do a similar effect on bronze/gold metals.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:11
|
|
|
Yeah, that is the cat's pyjamas. Really nice.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:12
|
|
|
Perfect timing too. We were just talking about putting transparent colors on metallics
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:48
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Metallic medium is not fine enough and will give you a "metallic flakes in paint" look. If you want actual colored metal you use VMA Silver, very strong and fine metalic pigment and excellent for mixing. Holy hell yeah. I just got this stuff and people don't kid around when they recommend the Vallejo metallic airs!
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 02:50
|
|
|
I'd actually tried a thin glaze over VMA Steel before, and while the parts that worked were almost exactly what I wanted, I wasn't able to get an even coat over a fairly large surface area. Hence asking about colored metallics. So in that case, what's the secret to good, even glazing technique?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 03:13
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I'd actually tried a thin glaze over VMA Steel before, and while the parts that worked were almost exactly what I wanted, I wasn't able to get an even coat over a fairly large surface area. Hence asking about colored metallics. Airbrushing. I did the same thing to start, just tried brushing it on in thin coats, but it was a no go for me, always being able to see brush strokes, tide marks etc, especially on open flat spaces. Airbrushing it on in thin coats immediately fixed that for me. I'm sure some other people will have a good answer for manual application, though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 03:19
|
|
|
If you don't have an airbrush, mix in some gloss varnish into the glaze/wash/filter to prevent pooling and tide marks. That'll help a lot. I find airbrushes better at doing glazes and filters. If you want a more wash-like effect, you need to glob things on with a brush. Also Fyrbrand you should post larger resolution pix. I wanna look at all your little details breh
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 04:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 09:42 |
|
|
Working on my first warlock, anything you guys recommend before I base and seal him? My brother is not a fan of the scrolls, says I should make the scrolls different tones and different types of metal for the caps, but I feel like that will make it too busy. Any advice on that or anything else you notice would be appreciated. Thanks.  
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 04:18
|
|
