Windows 10: I know what I'm doing

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > Windows 10: I know what I'm doing

stevewm: May 10, 2005

Phoenixan posted:

I had a netgear one, which worked fine but only connected at 802.11n speeds. Currently, I have an Intel AC 7260 (pci card) which works great, but I can't for the life of me get the bluetooth component working under Windows 10. Internet speeds are great though.

Strangely the Bluetooth portion of the Intel 7260 requires USB and does not work over PCI... Every 7260 card I have seen comes with a cable that connects to a header on the card and allows you to plug it into a internal USB header on your motherboard.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 13:40

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ? May 12, 2024 14:37

Gray Matter: Apr 20, 2009; There's something inside your head..

I'm getting ready to do a clean Win10 install on both my laptop and desktop next month when I get back home to the states. Is there a consolidated guide for a new install to remove as much bloat as possible, clean up the start menu, etc? I like my OS to run with minimal overhead and keep my start menu uncluttered with anything but the necessities.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 14:41

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

Gray Matter posted:

I'm getting ready to do a clean Win10 install on both my laptop and desktop next month when I get back home to the states. Is there a consolidated guide for a new install to remove as much bloat as possible, clean up the start menu, etc? I like my OS to run with minimal overhead and keep my start menu uncluttered with anything but the necessities.

Upgrade in place, then go to Settings -> Update andSecurity -> Recovery -> Reset this PC -> Keep my Files (or, if you hate your files and/or trust your backups "Remove everything")

This will keep any and all drivers needed to run windows while purging all of the programs and such you may have accumulated over the years.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 14:49

fishmech: Jul 16, 2006; by VideoGames; Salad Prong

Gray Matter posted:

I'm getting ready to do a clean Win10 install on both my laptop and desktop next month when I get back home to the states. Is there a consolidated guide for a new install to remove as much bloat as possible, clean up the start menu, etc? I like my OS to run with minimal overhead and keep my start menu uncluttered with anything but the necessities.

There's no "bloat" to remove, you're not installing the system image from a 2005 Gateway Walmart special here.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 14:49

Gray Matter: Apr 20, 2009; There's something inside your head..

fishmech posted:

There's no "bloat" to remove, you're not installing the system image from a 2005 Gateway Walmart special here.

I dunno, I did the direct upgrade from 7 in January and had about 2 weeks of using 10 before I left the country. I'm doing a format/clean reinstall when I get home. Seems like there was a whole lot of apps and bullshit in the start menu tiles they were trying to sell me. I just want it to look like 7 instead of the goddamn Google play store.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 14:59

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

Gray Matter posted:

I dunno, I did the direct upgrade from 7 in January and had about 2 weeks of using 10 before I left the country. I'm doing a format/clean reinstall when I get home. Seems like there was a whole lot of apps and bullshit in the start menu tiles they were trying to sell me. I just want it to look like 7 instead of the goddamn Google play store.

That stuff will be there on a clean reinstall. Default settings are to offer you apps from the app store, and the start menu functions differently from 7.

But, like I said, don't bother with the nuke and pave approach. Follow the steps I gave you - it's setup in the same way you'd delete your files from a mobile device.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 15:02

Gray Matter: Apr 20, 2009; There's something inside your head..

Arsten posted:

But, like I said, don't bother with the nuke and pave approach.

I always considered it good practice back in the XP days to do a clean OS reinstall at least once a year, although I was running the 7 install on that desktop for about 2.5 years without any noticeable issue. Is format/reinstall no longer A Thing?

# ? Jul 13, 2016 15:09

fishmech: Jul 16, 2006; by VideoGames; Salad Prong

Gray Matter posted:

I dunno, I did the direct upgrade from 7 in January and had about 2 weeks of using 10 before I left the country. I'm doing a format/clean reinstall when I get home. Seems like there was a whole lot of apps and bullshit in the start menu tiles they were trying to sell me. I just want it to look like 7 instead of the goddamn Google play store.

Right click things you don't want to see to remove them. They're just 5 kilobyte stubs. You can then just move around the things you want as you wish, my start menu looks like this for instance:

Gray Matter posted:

I always considered it good practice back in the XP days to do a clean OS reinstall at least once a year, although I was running the 7 install on that desktop for about 2.5 years without any noticeable issue. Is format/reinstall no longer A Thing?

That hasn't been good practice since the Windows 9x days, and it was only good practice there because the system/programs on it would corrupt itself and force you to reinstall anyway, meaning you already needed to reinstall all your programs. You really didn't need to be doing it, XP and up.

Really, it's something you should only be doing if you know you got hit by some sort of malware that might have caused there to be a rootkit or something like that installed, because you really can't trust that system anymore even if you think you've got it removed.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 15:32

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

Gray Matter posted:

I always considered it good practice back in the XP days to do a clean OS reinstall at least once a year, although I was running the 7 install on that desktop for about 2.5 years without any noticeable issue. Is format/reinstall no longer A Thing?

With Windows 10, there is no reason (barring a terrible virus infection or you accidentally deleted your Windows folder) to have to actually format and reinstall. The reset procedure does all of that for you. Like I said, think of it as resetting your phone: Erase All Content and Settings on an iPhone or Rest Device on Android that returns it to a factory default state.

fishmech posted:

That hasn't been good practice since the Windows 9x days, and it was only good practice there because the system/programs on it would corrupt itself and force you to reinstall anyway, meaning you already needed to reinstall all your programs. You really didn't need to be doing it, XP and up.

Really, it's something you should only be doing if you know you got hit by some sort of malware that might have caused there to be a rootkit or something like that installed, because you really can't trust that system anymore even if you think you've got it removed.

I disagree - especially for XP. XP really got hamburgered by install/uninstall operations. Vista and 7 didn't really need it, but then a decent slate of malware would royally mess those up without showing much outward sign, apart from a wildly unstable system (and stealing all your keystrokes) which meant that a nuke and pave could be warranted if you couldn't find a concrete reason that they were acting strange.

Now, with 10, should you actually encounter the need to reformat (for whatever reason), you only need to do so under specific circumstances. Viruses or software damage.

Arsten fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Jul 13, 2016

# ? Jul 13, 2016 15:33

Golbez: Oct 9, 2002; 1 2 3!
If you want to take a shot at me get in line, line
1 2 3!
Baby, I've had all my shots and I'm fine

My wife's computer is running Windows 7 and is being very, very slow. I'd love to reformat it but that's not an option (need some work software for a few weeks that we don't have the disk for at the moment).

Also, updating Windows doesn't seem to work. It stops forever on the update.

What I'd like to do is get Windows 10 on it, but I doubt that can happen when it's so broken on updates.

Is there any way to tag her with Microsoft as cool with Windows 10, and maybe download a copy, but not install it right now? So that it can wait until we can format things?

# ? Jul 13, 2016 16:54

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

Golbez posted:

My wife's computer is running Windows 7 and is being very, very slow. I'd love to reformat it but that's not an option (need some work software for a few weeks that we don't have the disk for at the moment).

Also, updating Windows doesn't seem to work. It stops forever on the update.

What I'd like to do is get Windows 10 on it, but I doubt that can happen when it's so broken on updates.

Is there any way to tag her with Microsoft as cool with Windows 10, and maybe download a copy, but not install it right now? So that it can wait until we can format things?

Not really. You have to install Windows 10 with an activated version of Windows 7 or 8.1 to get the digital entitlement. The best course if you absolutely need to have your Windows 7 still booting for awhile is to get a second hard drive and swap it out, reinstall 7 and then update to 10. Then you could continue using 7 until you didn't need it anymore, where you could nuke and pave the original system and use the new hard drive as added storage space. (Or, buy an SSD and have a super fast windows 10 system ready to go when you don't need 7 anymore).

# ? Jul 13, 2016 17:35

astral: Apr 26, 2004

Golbez posted:

My wife's computer is running Windows 7 and is being very, very slow. I'd love to reformat it but that's not an option (need some work software for a few weeks that we don't have the disk for at the moment).

Also, updating Windows doesn't seem to work. It stops forever on the update.

What I'd like to do is get Windows 10 on it, but I doubt that can happen when it's so broken on updates.

You could also try using the media creation tool to create media to upgrade with, if you haven't.

astral fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Mar 3, 2019

# ? Jul 13, 2016 17:58

CatHorse: Jan 5, 2008

Golbez posted:

My wife's computer is running Windows 7 and is being very, very slow. I'd love to reformat it but that's not an option (need some work software for a few weeks that we don't have the disk for at the moment).

Also, updating Windows doesn't seem to work. It stops forever on the update.

First make sure your HDD is OK with crystal disk info or something.
Then you can try updating using https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/

# ? Jul 13, 2016 18:02

chippy: Aug 16, 2006; OK I DON'T GET IT

chippy posted:

My main PC is still on Windows 7. I've got a Firewire audio interface attached to it for which there are no drivers beyond Windows 7 available on the manufacturer's website. I've tried installing the Windows 7 drivers on a Windows 8 laptop in the past, and iirc the installer just exited straight away, saying it was the wrong version of Windows.

However, I know the interface can work on W10, because I've got another machine in the house, that's been upgraded from W7 to W10, and the interface had previously been used on while it was on W7, and I just checked and the interface works just fine on it on W10.

I've got an SSD on the way, on to which I'm planning to do a clean install of W10 for my main machine. Obviously, I still want to be able to use my interface, so the question is - when I've done a clean install of W10, how do I trick the W7 drivers into installing? There must be a way to do this, right? Some sort of compatibility mode I can run the installer in or something like that?

Well, in the end the installer for the drivers just let me run it without complaint, and they work fine. I guess Windows 10 automatically did some sort of compatibility trick or something because it definitely didn't work on Windows 8.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 19:28

chippy: Aug 16, 2006; OK I DON'T GET IT

So..... none of the other 3 SATA hard (non SSD) hard disks I have in this system are showing up in Disk Management, or Device Manager. Anyone know why this might be?

E: they're all visible in the Bios but I had them unplugged while I installed Windows 10

e: nvm, reboot seems to have done the trick

edit again - Now it's given the system reserved partition a drive letter. I can unassign that, can't I?

chippy fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jul 13, 2016

# ? Jul 13, 2016 20:11

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

chippy posted:

So..... none of the other 3 SATA hard (non SSD) hard disks I have in this system are showing up in Disk Management, or Device Manager. Anyone know why this might be?

E: they're all visible in the Bios but I had them unplugged while I installed Windows 10

Edit: Do'h

Is the option to reassign the drive letter greyed out? Usually that only happens if Windows says there are system files on those drives.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 20:18

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

After upgrading from windows 7, I've updated my nvidia display drivers, I've disabled fast startup and I've disabled a few startup services but it still takes over 20 minutes to get to the login screen when I reboot or start up my computer. My boot drive is a SSD. What else can I do to fix this long startup time?

# ? Jul 13, 2016 20:30

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

After upgrading from windows 7, I've updated my nvidia display drivers, I've disabled fast startup and I've disabled a few startup services but it still takes over 20 minutes to get to the login screen when I reboot or start up my computer. My boot drive is a SSD. What else can I do to fix this long startup time?

Why did you disable fast startup?

# ? Jul 13, 2016 20:41

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Arsten posted:

Why did you disable fast startup?

I was following advice from this page http://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/black-screen-on-windows-10-issue-how-to-fix.html

Edit: it was enabled at first and startup was still extremely slow.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 21:04

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

I was following advice from this page http://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/black-screen-on-windows-10-issue-how-to-fix.html

Edit: it was enabled at first and startup was still extremely slow.

Well, first, go to (start and type in "Event Viewer") Event Viewer, select "Windows Logs" and then "System" from the folder list on the left and look for "Critical" (Red Xs) under the "Level" column. Look for anything around the time frame of your boot up. I'd bet that a specific device or driver is causing your issues. If you see a large gap between times on a boot up (e.g. the first information is at 6:04 and the next one comes at 6:11), that could also be what was causing the slow startup.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 21:37

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Arsten posted:

Well, first, go to (start and type in "Event Viewer") Event Viewer, select "Windows Logs" and then "System" from the folder list on the left and look for "Critical" (Red Xs) under the "Level" column. Look for anything around the time frame of your boot up. I'd bet that a specific device or driver is causing your issues. If you see a large gap between times on a boot up (e.g. the first information is at 6:04 and the next one comes at 6:11), that could also be what was causing the slow startup.

I found a yellow warning event (Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I218-V Network link is disconnected.) and the next event is 22 minutes later.

details are

code:


Log Name:      System
Source:        e1iexpress
Date:          7/13/2016 3:21:57 PM
Event ID:      27
Task Category: None
Level:         Warning
Keywords:      Classic
User:          N/A
Computer:      Zushakon-PC
Description:
Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I218-V
 Network link is disconnected.

Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
  <System>
    <Provider Name="e1iexpress" />
    <EventID Qualifiers="40964">27</EventID>
    <Level>3</Level>
    <Task>0</Task>
    <Keywords>0x80000000000000</Keywords>
    <TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-07-13T20:21:57.723669500Z" />
    <EventRecordID>1462</EventRecordID>
    <Channel>System</Channel>
    <Computer>Zushakon-PC</Computer>
    <Security />
  </System>
  <EventData>
    <Data>
    </Data>
    <Data>Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I218-V</Data>
    <Binary>0000040002003000000000001B0004A00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001B0004A0</Binary>
  </EventData>
</Event>

There's also a red error right after the reboot command

code:

Log Name:      System
Source:        Service Control Manager
Date:          7/13/2016 3:21:25 PM
Event ID:      7031
Task Category: None
Level:         Error
Keywords:      Classic
User:          N/A
Computer:      Zushakon-PC
Description:
The Sync Host_8d086 service terminated unexpectedly.  It has done this 1 time(s).  The following corrective action will be taken in 10000 milliseconds: Restart the service.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
  <System>
    <Provider Name="Service Control Manager" Guid="{555908d1-a6d7-4695-8e1e-26931d2012f4}" EventSourceName="Service Control Manager" />
    <EventID Qualifiers="49152">7031</EventID>
    <Version>0</Version>
    <Level>2</Level>
    <Task>0</Task>
    <Opcode>0</Opcode>
    <Keywords>0x8080000000000000</Keywords>
    <TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-07-13T20:21:25.095351900Z" />
    <EventRecordID>1427</EventRecordID>
    <Correlation />
    <Execution ProcessID="800" ThreadID="4056" />
    <Channel>System</Channel>
    <Computer>Zushakon-PC</Computer>
    <Security />
  </System>
  <EventData>
    <Data Name="param1">Sync Host_8d086</Data>
    <Data Name="param2">1</Data>
    <Data Name="param3">10000</Data>
    <Data Name="param4">1</Data>
    <Data Name="param5">Restart the service</Data>
    <Binary>4F006E006500530079006E0063005300760063005F00380064003000380036000000</Binary>
  </EventData>
</Event>

# ? Jul 13, 2016 21:48

Glass of Milk: Dec 22, 2004; to forgive is divine

I ordered a new SSD to stick Win10 on. If I use my Win7 key and upgrade, then stow the new drive for a while, will I be able to continue using Win 7 or will it somehow deactivate the win7 install? I want to use 7 for a while longer, but want the free 10 upgrade to use at some point.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 21:57

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

I found a yellow warning event (Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I218-V Network link is disconnected.) and the next event is 22 minutes later.

details are

Disable the Ethernet Adapter in Device Manager and see if your boot times go up significantly. If it does, try to find an updated driver for that device from your system/motherboard manufacturer (if it's an add-on card, try from Intel directly).

clockworkjoe posted:

There's also a red error right after the reboot command

This one shouldn't cause an issue with rebooting, but it's a very old known bug with OneDrive. If you care and want to solve it, you need to go to the registry editor and set the following keys to "4":
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Service\OneSyncSvc\Start
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\OneSyncSvc_Session1\Start
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\OneSyncSvc_Session4\Start

Glass of Milk posted:

I ordered a new SSD to stick Win10 on. If I use my Win7 key and upgrade, then stow the new drive for a while, will I be able to continue using Win 7 or will it somehow deactivate the win7 install? I want to use 7 for a while longer, but want the free 10 upgrade to use at some point.

As long as you install before July 29, you can continue to use Windows 7. You can even install and then down grade, if that suits you. The problem will be if you change your motherboard, you won't be able to use the set-aside SSD with your system anymore without purchasing a key.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 22:06

Flipperwaldt: Nov 11, 2011; Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?

Glass of Milk posted:

will I be able to continue using Win 7

Yes.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 22:08

Glass of Milk: Dec 22, 2004; to forgive is divine

Awesome, thanks. It's less apprehension about Win 10 and more dealing with an especially old and crufty win7 install.

# ? Jul 13, 2016 22:27

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Arsten posted:

Disable the Ethernet Adapter in Device Manager and see if your boot times go up significantly. If it does, try to find an updated driver for that device from your system/motherboard manufacturer (if it's an add-on card, try from Intel directly).

This one shouldn't cause an issue with rebooting, but it's a very old known bug with OneDrive. If you care and want to solve it, you need to go to the registry editor and set the following keys to "4":
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Service\OneSyncSvc\Start
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\OneSyncSvc_Session1\Start
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\OneSyncSvc_Session4\Start

As long as you install before July 29, you can continue to use Windows 7. You can even install and then down grade, if that suits you. The problem will be if you change your motherboard, you won't be able to use the set-aside SSD with your system anymore without purchasing a key.

I disabled ethernet and that message disappeared from the system log but there's still a 20 minute gap in it between two information events. At 5:11, I get Volume K: (\Device\HarddiskVolume10) is healthy. No action is needed. then at 5:33 I get "File System Filter 'luafv' (10.0, ‎2015‎-‎10‎-‎29T21:34:43.000000000Z) has successfully loaded and registered with Filter Manager." both are information, not warnings.

There are a bunch of warnings and a red error messages at 5:33 pm, things like

Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft\Windows\Media Center\ObjectStoreRecoveryTask definition. Additional Data: Error Value: %SystemRoot%\ehome\mcupdate.exe.
Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft\Windows\Media Center\mcupdate_scheduled definition. Additional Data: Error Value: %SystemRoot%\ehome\mcupdate.
Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft_Hardware_Launch_devicecenter_exe definition. Additional Data: Error Value: C:\Program Files\Microsoft Device Center\devicecenter.exe.

The red error message is

code:

Log Name:      System
Source:        Service Control Manager
Date:          7/13/2016 5:33:24 PM
Event ID:      7001
Task Category: None
Level:         Error
Keywords:      Classic
User:          N/A
Computer:      Zushakon-PC
Description:
The NetTcpActivator service depends on the NetTcpPortSharing service which failed to start because of the following error: 
The service cannot be started, either because it is disabled or because it has no enabled devices associated with it.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
  <System>
    <Provider Name="Service Control Manager" Guid="{555908d1-a6d7-4695-8e1e-26931d2012f4}" EventSourceName="Service Control Manager" />
    <EventID Qualifiers="49152">7001</EventID>
    <Version>0</Version>
    <Level>2</Level>
    <Task>0</Task>
    <Opcode>0</Opcode>
    <Keywords>0x8080000000000000</Keywords>
    <TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-07-13T22:33:24.083368300Z" />
    <EventRecordID>1583</EventRecordID>
    <Correlation />
    <Execution ProcessID="768" ThreadID="2484" />
    <Channel>System</Channel>
    <Computer>Zushakon-PC</Computer>
    <Security />
  </System>
  <EventData>
    <Data Name="param1">NetTcpActivator</Data>
    <Data Name="param2">NetTcpPortSharing</Data>
    <Data Name="param3">%%1058</Data>
    <Binary>4E006500740054006300700041006300740069007600610074006F0072000000</Binary>
  </EventData>
</Event>

Some of my Asrock motherboard utilities need to be updated, so I'll do that anyway (INF driver, Rapid Storage Tech driver and ME driver).

# ? Jul 13, 2016 23:50

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

I disabled ethernet and that message disappeared from the system log but there's still a 20 minute gap in it between two information events. At 5:11, I get Volume K: (\Device\HarddiskVolume10) is healthy. No action is needed. then at 5:33 I get "File System Filter 'luafv' (10.0, ‎2015‎-‎10‎-‎29T21:34:43.000000000Z) has successfully loaded and registered with Filter Manager." both are information, not warnings.

It should not take 22 minutes to start the UAC Filter driver.....And that's a core part of Windows, so I'm not sure if you can even disable it, even if you turn off UAC.

clockworkjoe posted:

There are a bunch of warnings and a red error messages at 5:33 pm, things like

Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft\Windows\Media Center\ObjectStoreRecoveryTask definition. Additional Data: Error Value: %SystemRoot%\ehome\mcupdate.exe.
Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft\Windows\Media Center\mcupdate_scheduled definition. Additional Data: Error Value: %SystemRoot%\ehome\mcupdate.
Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft_Hardware_Launch_devicecenter_exe definition. Additional Data: Error Value: C:\Program Files\Microsoft Device Center\devicecenter.exe.

Were you running Media Center? That should have been removed with the update. Can you go to the Task Manager (right click task bar) and in the Startup tab uncheck anything related to Media Center? You should also see if the mcupdate service (Windows Media Center Update Service is what I think its called) 's still registered and active in the Services.msc MMC application - if it is, change it to disabled.

clockworkjoe posted:

The red error message is

This is normal. Since you disabled your network device, the TCP service has nothing to bind to (and it's an error because what computer has no Network, these days? :v:

)

clockworkjoe posted:

Some of my Asrock motherboard utilities need to be updated, so I'll do that anyway (INF driver, Rapid Storage Tech driver and ME driver).

This is a good idea, even if you had no troubles.

Another step, should disabling anything related to Media Center not work, is to restart in Safe Mode and see if the boot issue is still there. (Settings -> Update and Security -> Recovery -> Advanced Startup -> Restart Now. After the restart, you should get a "Choose an Option" menu. Select Advanced -> Startup Settings -> Restart, then press F4 for Safe Mode)
Then check event viewer and see what services are missing and we will have to start d

After that, it's going to start getting more drastic (like "Reset my PC" drastic).

Arsten fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jul 14, 2016

# ? Jul 14, 2016 00:09

fishmech: Jul 16, 2006; by VideoGames; Salad Prong

Golbez posted:

My wife's computer is running Windows 7 and is being very, very slow. I'd love to reformat it but that's not an option (need some work software for a few weeks that we don't have the disk for at the moment).

Also, updating Windows doesn't seem to work. It stops forever on the update.

What I'd like to do is get Windows 10 on it, but I doubt that can happen when it's so broken on updates.

Is there any way to tag her with Microsoft as cool with Windows 10, and maybe download a copy, but not install it right now? So that it can wait until we can format things?

Try installing Windows 10 via the ISO you can get from the installer on here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/

Burn it to a DVD or image it to a USB drive, put that in her computer while Windows 7 is running, and see if it successfully installs.

I'll also note that what you might be suffering from on there is a dying hard drive, especially if it takes a long time to boot. Have you run CHKDSK /F on it recently?

# ? Jul 14, 2016 01:19

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Arsten posted:

It should not take 22 minutes to start the UAC Filter driver.....And that's a core part of Windows, so I'm not sure if you can even disable it, even if you turn off UAC.

Were you running Media Center? That should have been removed with the update. Can you go to the Task Manager (right click task bar) and in the Startup tab uncheck anything related to Media Center? You should also see if the mcupdate service (Windows Media Center Update Service is what I think its called) 's still registered and active in the Services.msc MMC application - if it is, change it to disabled.

This is normal. Since you disabled your network device, the TCP service has nothing to bind to (and it's an error because what computer has no Network, these days? )

This is a good idea, even if you had no troubles.

Another step, should disabling anything related to Media Center not work, is to restart in Safe Mode and see if the boot issue is still there. (Settings -> Update and Security -> Recovery -> Advanced Startup -> Restart Now. After the restart, you should get a "Choose an Option" menu. Select Advanced -> Startup Settings -> Restart, then press F4 for Safe Mode)
Then check event viewer and see what services are missing and we will have to start d

After that, it's going to start getting more drastic (like "Reset my PC" drastic).

I couldn't find anything related to media center in task manager or services.msc

When I tried to boot in safe mode, it still had the same delay. I have no loving clue what's going on.

Here's the event log http://slangdesign.com/systemlog1.rar

Any help is greatly appreciated.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 05:04

Geemer: Nov 4, 2010

If there is a message about volume K being healthy with no action needed on every boot, it sounds like it's doing a disk check every time. Either it fails to clear the dirty bit, or something keeps setting it.

Did you check the health of your hard drives with the portable zip version of CrystalDiskInfo yet?

# ? Jul 14, 2016 06:33

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Geemer posted:

If there is a message about volume K being healthy with no action needed on every boot, it sounds like it's doing a disk check every time. Either it fails to clear the dirty bit, or something keeps setting it.

Did you check the health of your hard drives with the portable zip version of CrystalDiskInfo yet?

not with the portable version of crystaldiskinfo, just the standard version I have installed on it.

Digging around, I've found multiple tasks in task scheduler no longer exist. I am trying to figure out how to remove or fix them.

Edit: Tried portable zip version of Crystaldisk, says the K: drive is fine. It's an external USB drive though so I can unplug it. It's my backup drive.

Weirdly, the Windows 7 backup and restore feature says that K: drive is about to fail.

Edit the second: I used autoruns to disable a bunch of tasks that went to missing files and I unplugged the K: drive and it still took an extra 22 minutes. I'll try to remove the The Sync "Host_50873 service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 10000 milliseconds: Restart the service" error next.

Edit 3: Trying this solution posted earlier: "This one shouldn't cause an issue with rebooting, but it's a very old known bug with OneDrive. If you care and want to solve it, you need to go to the registry editor and set the following keys to "4":
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Service\OneSyncSvc\Start
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\OneSyncSvc_Session1\Start
HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\OneSyncSvc_Session4\Start"

Session1 and session4 do not exist so I just changed start to 4. I will reboot now to see if it works.

edit 4 Didn't work but the red error changed to "The Sync Host_54be3 service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 10000 milliseconds: Restart the service." - When I navigate to that hkey, start is already set to 4. The 22 minute gap happens between "Volume \\?\Volume{7c9b3715-0000-0000-0000-805474000000} (\Device\HarddiskVolume3) is healthy. No action is needed." and "File System Filter 'luafv' (10.0, ‎2015‎-‎10‎-‎29T21:34:43.000000000Z) has successfully loaded and registered with Filter Manager."

Not sure what the deal is with that volume. What is checking hte hard drives and how cna I disable that entirely?

clockworkjoe fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jul 14, 2016

# ? Jul 14, 2016 06:54

Geemer: Nov 4, 2010

It reads like the chkdsk default 'disk is fine' message. Maybe you can try running chkdsk /f on all your volumes from an elevated command prompt and see if that clears the dirty bit (which tells the system to do a disk check on boot).

# ? Jul 14, 2016 08:41

Ika: Dec 30, 2004; Pure insanity

Speaking of chkdsk, I am currently dualbooting between win7 and win10, and whenever I switch OSes it wants to chkdsk all my drives.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 09:14

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

Not sure what the deal is with that volume. What is checking hte hard drives and how cna I disable that entirely?

Geemer posted:

It reads like the chkdsk default 'disk is fine' message. Maybe you can try running chkdsk /f on all your volumes from an elevated command prompt and see if that clears the dirty bit (which tells the system to do a disk check on boot).

NTFS does that on every boot to every NTFS hard drive. That is the system checking for the dirty bit. "Drive is Healthy" is it not finding anything improper with the journal.

clockworkjoe posted:

Here's the event log http://slangdesign.com/systemlog1.rar

Reviewing this, in the same second your system comes back to life, there are two warnings for WUDRFD for two separate devices. One of them is a USB storage device (with "Kensington" in the manufacturer string). I would disconnect your external hard drives and flash drives to test boot.

The other one is noted by GUID, so I can't be sure which device is causing it specifically. But you might be able to fix the problem by going to services and finding "Windows Driver Foundation - User Mode Driver Service" and changing the start type to "Automatic". (Right before the warnings, there is an information saying that the WUD didn't load, yet.

Did up update your chipset and other mainboard drivers? One cause of this driver failure is AHCI incompatibility.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 13:38

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

Ika posted:

Speaking of chkdsk, I am currently dualbooting between win7 and win10, and whenever I switch OSes it wants to chkdsk all my drives.

This is usually due to NTFS competition. Windows 7 doesn't know the new version of NTFS, so it check disks when it boots up. Windows 10 detects the lesser version of NTFS when it boots (Which wasn't the state it left the drives in) so it check disks, too.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 13:42

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

I ran chkdsk /f and I updated my bios to its latest version, which has windows 10 support. Still have the 22 minute wait in boot up

Server log here http://slangdesign.com/serverlog2.rar

I left my computer on overnight but I have no idea what "The master browser has received a server announcement from the computer DESKTOP-RAMF37M that believes that it is the master browser for the domain on transport NetBT_Tcpip_{C48046E8-BB6F-4580-AE55-890F78342B56}. The master browser is stopping or an election is being forced." is referring to - it's an error I got at 3:18 AM and I have no loving clue what DESKTOP-RAMF37M is supposed to be.

There are a ton of errors around 2:33 AM for "The IO operation at logical block address 0x0 for Disk 4 (PDO name: \Device\00000068) failed due to a hardware error." but I have no idea what that device is.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 20:36

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

I ran chkdsk /f and I updated my bios to its latest version, which has windows 10 support. Still have the 22 minute wait in boot up

Server log here http://slangdesign.com/serverlog2.rar

I left my computer on overnight but I have no idea what "The master browser has received a server announcement from the computer DESKTOP-RAMF37M that believes that it is the master browser for the domain on transport NetBT_Tcpip_{C48046E8-BB6F-4580-AE55-890F78342B56}. The master browser is stopping or an election is being forced." is referring to - it's an error I got at 3:18 AM and I have no loving clue what DESKTOP-RAMF37M is supposed to be.

There are a ton of errors around 2:33 AM for "The IO operation at logical block address 0x0 for Disk 4 (PDO name: \Device\00000068) failed due to a hardware error." but I have no idea what that device is.

DESKTOP-RAMF37M looks like the automatic computer name that Windows 10 gives out. Do you have other Win10 devices on your network?

That sounds like a hard disk failure. Under Computer Management, go to Disk Management and look at Disk 4. Disconnect that from where ever it is connected to (USB or SATA or w/e) and then try to reboot. If you don't recognize the volume labels, right click on the part that says "Disk 4" and select "Properties" The title of the window that pops up will give you the model that you can use to identify it.

If you don't know where this particular drive is plugged in, go to the "Driver" tab and click "Disable". Note that if this is your system drive and it doesn't stop you from doing the disable for some reason, it will halt your system to a complete stop and it won't be bootable. (Sorry!)

# ? Jul 14, 2016 20:45

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Arsten posted:

DESKTOP-RAMF37M looks like the automatic computer name that Windows 10 gives out. Do you have other Win10 devices on your network?

That sounds like a hard disk failure. Under Computer Management, go to Disk Management and look at Disk 4. Disconnect that from where ever it is connected to (USB or SATA or w/e) and then try to reboot. If you don't recognize the volume labels, right click on the part that says "Disk 4" and select "Properties" The title of the window that pops up will give you the model that you can use to identify it.

If you don't know where this particular drive is plugged in, go to the "Driver" tab and click "Disable". Note that if this is your system drive and it doesn't stop you from doing the disable for some reason, it will halt your system to a complete stop and it won't be bootable. (Sorry!)

I have a surface 3 and a windows 10 laptop. The laptop was off so it must be the surface. Should I shut it off as well?

Disk 4 is the external drive (K:). I thought I had disconnected last night but I am not 100% sure. When I plugged it in its usual USB 3.0 port, it was uninitialized and I could not see it in windows explorer. I tried a USB 2.0 plug and it did work. I've ejected it but disk management shows 2 of the K: drive in the list at the top.

Crystaldisk shows the K drive was in good health though.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 21:21

Arsten: Feb 18, 2003

clockworkjoe posted:

I have a surface 3 and a windows 10 laptop. The laptop was off so it must be the surface. Should I shut it off as well?

Disk 4 is the external drive (K:). I thought I had disconnected last night but I am not 100% sure. When I plugged it in its usual USB 3.0 port, it was uninitialized and I could not see it in windows explorer. I tried a USB 2.0 plug and it did work. I've ejected it but disk management shows 2 of the K: drive in the list at the top.

Crystaldisk shows the K drive was in good health though.

No, those errors are fairly mundane. They wouldn't have any bearing on the boot ability of your system.

If it was uninitialized in one port but fine in another, you either have a USB bus issue or the controller on that USB drive is about to fail. Since you booted the system without the K drive at some point (I think) I'll start down the USB bus issue first:

Do those same USB3 ports work for other devices (e.g. keyboard/mouse, ideally other hard drives)? If you don't have another known-good drive or devices to test, try disabling the USB3 root hub via Device Manager. If you don't know which one is the USB3 hub, plug in a flash drive or something in that port, and then in Device Manager go to View -> Devices by Connection. You'll have to expand your trees, again, but you should be able to find the device you just plugged in under "ACPI x64-based PC" -> Microsoft ACPI Compliant System -> PCI Bus -> <Multiple USB Controllers here>. You'll have to scout through them to find what you plugged in. Once you know which one it's plugged into, disable the device that says controller.

It'll usually go something like "Standard USB Controller -> USB Root Hub -> Connected Device Type (E.g. Mass Storage Controller) -> Device Name/Model" You want to disable the Standard USB Controller at the top.

NOTE: If you have your keyboard and mouse on the same controller, they will cease to function. Make sure you have them plugged into another USB controller before disabling one.

# ? Jul 14, 2016 21:34

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ? May 12, 2024 14:37

clockworkjoe: May 31, 2000; Rolled a 1 on the random encounter table, didn't you?

Arsten posted:

No, those errors are fairly mundane. They wouldn't have any bearing on the boot ability of your system.

If it was uninitialized in one port but fine in another, you either have a USB bus issue or the controller on that USB drive is about to fail. Since you booted the system without the K drive at some point (I think) I'll start down the USB bus issue first:

Do those same USB3 ports work for other devices (e.g. keyboard/mouse, ideally other hard drives)? If you don't have another known-good drive or devices to test, try disabling the USB3 root hub via Device Manager. If you don't know which one is the USB3 hub, plug in a flash drive or something in that port, and then in Device Manager go to View -> Devices by Connection. You'll have to expand your trees, again, but you should be able to find the device you just plugged in under "ACPI x64-based PC" -> Microsoft ACPI Compliant System -> PCI Bus -> <Multiple USB Controllers here>. You'll have to scout through them to find what you plugged in. Once you know which one it's plugged into, disable the device that says controller.

It'll usually go something like "Standard USB Controller -> USB Root Hub -> Connected Device Type (E.g. Mass Storage Controller) -> Device Name/Model" You want to disable the Standard USB Controller at the top.

NOTE: If you have your keyboard and mouse on the same controller, they will cease to function. Make sure you have them plugged into another USB controller before disabling one.

Uh it seems like I only have 1 USB controller so if I disable that I will be unable to hook anything up to my PC -

It says the driver is up to date.

edit: my motherboard is an ASRock H97M Pro4 if that helps. I just updated bios to 2.00.

edit the K drive/external drive is unplugged and I rebooted with it unplugged. No difference. Is there any other way to diagnose the usb controller other than disabling it?

clockworkjoe fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jul 15, 2016

# ? Jul 14, 2016 22:00

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > Windows 10: I know what I'm doing

«‹›500 »