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Yup- about time to switch to an open system. gently caress that closed system forever. All you really need is two lines to the radiator, two to the heater core and one to the overflow/res tank. Done.
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May 29, 2016 00:31
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kastein posted:Comanche status: was about to go to the yard in it today when it overheated to 280+ degrees while idling in the driveway. Shut it off, then I popped the cap to prevent hose explosions. It gave me its best Old Faithful:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp07HqHx9wA  Anything other than a Jeep I6 and it would never run again, drat. poo poo our stupid car hit 220 and never ran again
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May 29, 2016 00:34
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drat thing was just sitting there idling like nothing was wrong, except the angry hissing and steam coming from the pressure bottle's cap. I have all the poo poo to swap it to open system sitting on the other side of the yard in my 98 but probably going to just install the brand new radiator I have sitting on the porch for it. This drivetrain won't be in it next year anyways. E: pretty sure I could reuse the rad hoses from the closed system but still not bothering. As for how I didn't get burned - many years of practice at a quicklube. I didn't even use gloves or a rag (don't do this) just stayed as far back as possible and reached in for quick half-turn loosenings then pulled back fast every time till it finally let loose. A 70s F250 at the quicklube I worked at in 2005 was the previous recordholder for coolant altitude (underside of hood), this one coated the hood, splashed about 4ft above it, and even got the outside of both fenders and the grill. The tacobell radiatorshits lasted a lot longer, too. Most impressive. HG is probably fine, the 4.0L in my other MJ got overheated to this point and beyond (so badly it ruptured the upper rad hose) for several minutes and boiled at 240-260 in traffic on i84 for the entire drive to Pennsylvania once in 2012. Still fine to this day, after 4 hydrolocks and a few no-oil incidents, though it has a minor cold start bottom end tap. Not sure if it's a crushed bearing from the hydrolocks or a spun one from no oil 
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May 29, 2016 01:56
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Finally a use for one of those lovely RockAuto rad caps with the vent lever.
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May 29, 2016 02:54
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NitroSpazzz posted:
220F and it died? My Firebird used to regularly go over 210, probably about 220 anytime it was idleing sitting still before the electric fans would kick in. As soon as the car was moving (or the fans kicked in) it would cool off immediately. I spoke to several dealers, shops, and owners over the years and they all said that was just how the LT1 F-body cars ran. I drove it that way for years and it never overheated on me. As for the Jeep, I am more surprised Ken didn't just drive it to work with the geyser going down the highway. Fuel, spark, or O2, pick any
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May 29, 2016 02:56
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Crotch Fruit posted:220F and it died? My Firebird used to regularly go over 210, probably about 220 anytime it was idleing sitting still before the electric fans would kick in. As soon as the car was moving (or the fans kicked in) it would cool off immediately. I spoke to several dealers, shops, and owners over the years and they all said that was just how the LT1 F-body cars ran. I drove it that way for years and it never overheated on me. Pretty much same behavior as the LS1 in my C5.
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May 29, 2016 05:03
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Crotch Fruit posted:220F and it died? My Firebird used to regularly go over 210, probably about 220 anytime it was idleing sitting still before the electric fans would kick in. As soon as the car was moving (or the fans kicked in) it would cool off immediately. I spoke to several dealers, shops, and owners over the years and they all said that was just how the LT1 F-body cars ran. I drove it that way for years and it never overheated on me. That seems to be a GM Thing in general. Even my Saturd will get up to 210-215 before the fan kicks on, unless the a/c is running (in which case the fan runs nonstop). This is going by OBD2 data anyway, the gauge is a little above half when the fan kicks in. I remember family member owned GMs running on the warm side too. I know the 94 Cadillac my mom had when I was in high school would start bitching about engine temp around 250. It would go into limp home mode and run on 4 cylinders around... 270ish? From what I dug up on Google, the fans don't come on until 224F on the Northstar, and the overheating message doesn't pop up until 255. I had it hot enough to go into limp mode a handful of times. This was in 1995, so it's not like it was poorly maintained (yet). Those engines did have an appetite for head gaskets, but it was due to the head bolt threads being pulled out of the block.  Surprisingly, the engine never gave her any issue in that car. Went through 3 transmissions after I got my license though. 
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May 29, 2016 09:11
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NitroSpazzz posted:
My C70 doesn't even cut the radiator fan on until the ECT reaches 225, which scared the hell out of me the first time I saw it creeping above 223 on Torque and nothing was happening. New cars run hot as poo poo.
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May 29, 2016 15:51
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New radiator is in, haven't filled the cooling system yet. Pressure bottle appears to have some stress cracks, hopefully it holds water still.
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May 29, 2016 15:55
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Fixed: overheating problem on MJ New features: overcooling problem Brake warning lamp came on Brakes are unexpectedly mushy now Trans cooler quickconnect now leaks Trans now won't shift right again, suspect TPS got soaked by Old Faithful or fuse under dash blew (again) Engine now is back to its old trick of stalling at random if you stab the brakes  I just want to drive my goddamn truck
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May 29, 2016 18:01
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Forgot to mention, it was idling crazy high for no reason whatsoever right before I shut it off. Now it isn't Brake lamp mysteriously went off again, brakes still somewhat mushy Trans fuse isn't blown, testdriving shortly Everything else is still broken This truck is just loving with me for its own amusement now.
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May 29, 2016 18:46
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Trans still acting up, fluid level is fine and all connectors seem clean and tight. If I ever meet the halfwit that designed this electrical system I am going to beat them half to death twice.
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May 29, 2016 19:01
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When I got my TPS nice and wet once it did that idle at 2500rpm thing for a day or two at random but never did it again. I also recently bit the bullet and spent $32 on a MOPAR thermostat and it fixed my overcooling/slow warmup instantly. Before that I had mixed luck with both Standt and Motorad - the OEM is made by Motorad but in Israel instead of Mexico or China... seems like a lot of recent consensus points towards it being the only good one out there these days.
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May 29, 2016 19:27
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As long as it doesn't overheat anymore I'm not spending another cent on the cooling system, since it won't be staying this way for more than a year or so. 99% sure the shifting issue is the TPS. Especially since the throttle-drop stall issue went away when I installed the new TPS and came back at exactly the same time as the trans computer forgot when to shift, which just so happens to be right after a bath in hot coolant. gently caress this thing. HO jeeps have never given me poo poo after a bit of water exposure, because their TPS to throttle body setup isn't a hot wet garbage heap. If it will run and drive this way till I am ready to drivetrain swap it, I am not feeding it another TPS. I tested it just now by unplugging the trans solenoid harness connector and it manually shifts exactly how it should. I wonder if I can find a way to adapt an HO throttle body, IAC, and TPS easily, I only have ten million donors for those sitting around after all.
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May 29, 2016 20:09
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kastein posted:I wonder if I can find a way to adapt an HO throttle body, IAC, and TPS easily, I only have ten million donors for those sitting around after all. http://www.rockmodified.com/Tech/TB/tb_perf.htm Doesn't look that difficult thought that link reuses the renix tps.
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May 29, 2016 20:20
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That's most of the reason I want to swap to the HO unit, but that page did remind me that the HO TB has different throttle cables and linkages. drat. Also just slapped the junkyard motor, clutch assembly, etc all into the Forester wholesale with zero concerns for any wear parts and it runs again and is the quietest EJ251 I've had yet! Seems to have no rod knock, might be eating coolant but I'm about 80% sure it isn't.
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May 30, 2016 02:45
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OK, so, a few things. The MJ: - Definitely a dead TPS, symptoms agree 100% with what TRS said and showed up right after I fed it hot boiling buttmud coolant. - Radiator is great though. Too good. I think I will slap a new fan clutch on just because and replace the quickdisconnect at the lower trans cooler fitting with a hoseclamp and a barb adapter because it's leaking like a bitch still. Doesn't noticeably affect driving, but I don't like dripping ATF all over the dirt driveway. - Fortunately a shortbed MJ has just the right amount of space in the bed to comfortably seat two EJ engines on spare tires/wheels with room to stand around them hooking them to a chainfall. So I can drive the car under the chainfall, hoist the engine out, push the car back, back the truck under it, drop the old engine in the front of the bed on a tire, move forward 3', pick the new engine up, drive out from under, push the car back under and drop the engine in. I now have far too much practice doing this. Old and busted:  New hotness:  I decided to see just how bad the radiator was. The answer is really bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEYIXrRxF34 The Forester: Engine #1 had 3 sets of head gaskets done on it by the PPO, then it blew again so he sold it to Ozmiander. Who tore the motor out, went to do the HGs for the fourth time, the threads stripped out of the block so he scrapped the block and sold me the car, heads, and loaded intake manifold. Engine #2 was those heads, intake manifold, and an EJ22E bottom end from a high mileage white 1991 legacy or outback, I can't remember which. The valve stem seals began leaking shortly after building the motor and continued to for its whole existence. I ran it out of oil 5 or 6 times (I can't even remember, it might have been more) but normally would notice the angry clacking when I started it in the morning, pour 4 quarts of oil into it, and continue on with my life. It died almost exactly a month ago when I was parked on a level instead of a steep sidehill and I only got to hear the angry clacking during a fourth gear, 4000+ RPM wide open throttle middle-lane pass on i290. This one's entirely my fault. Engine #3 was the last one I put in, it came from a wrecked 2000 Legacy/Outback and appeared to be in good shape. It had a knock for sure though and I got my money back on the warranty. Engine #4 I finished installing Sunday. It's a beautiful flower and the car is strangely quiet now, quieter than I've ever heard. It came from a silver 2000 Forester and I honestly have absolutely no idea how many miles it has on it because while the donor had over 200k, the engine turned out to have an LKQ warranty badge stuck to the back of the passenger side so it's now in its third chassis. Friday the engine came out, then I discovered that I was missing a TOB hold down clip. The dealer was closed and I knew the donor for my engine hadn't been crushed yet so I went to the junkyard Saturday (after blowing up the MJ) and just got the whole clutch fork, TOB, and both clips for 10 bucks without actually using any tools. Sunday was engine swap time, so I glared at the car and refused to do anything except attempt to will the engine into it until well after noon. At that point I decided I should actually get it working again. A few lessons learned from last time. - unbolting the little torque rod that goes from the firewall to the bellhousing helps significantly when bolting a new engine in. So does jacking the trans up several inches so you don't have to fight BH+input shaft alignment and engine mount studs vs the crossmember all at the same time. - last time I definitely stripped the gently caress out of a few of the BH bolt holes in the block. There are 8 (including the two studs) and phase 1 cars only had 4, so since I had at least 4 total and at least one of them held the starter in, I just said gently caress it and ran with it. So this time, I scrounged around for my M10x1.25 tap and chased every BH bolt hole. As a result, the bolts threaded in by hand, easily, until they were almost tight, a huge improvement. - I also cleaned each BH bolt carefully before installing it, and discarded any BH bolt that had aluminum gummed up in the threads right at the tip where they corrode into the block because Subaru stole some ideas from Ford. - In the future I'll be buying brand new TOB retention clips from the dealer before any swap. They were both there when I put engine #3 in, and only one was there when I took it back out. The annoying squeaking at idle in neutral with no pressure on the clutch turned out to be either the fact that the TOB was only held down by one clip, or the new TOB disagreeing with the wear pattern on the pressure plate fingers. It didn't disagree with the wear pattern on the junkyard engine's pressure plate fingers, so I'm blaming the shagged out and missing retention clips. - I slammed that loving thing in with the junkyard flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate on it. They looked fine, and drive fine, and the pilot bearing felt perfect spinning it with my fingertip. Hopefully the clutch doesn't wear out in 5k miles or something retarded like that. I kept my originals from the old engine so if they do it'll just be a wasted weekend instead of actual expense. - I put it in with the previous owner's timing belt, timing belt pulleys, water pump, thermostat, and cam/crank seals in it, too. And didn't change the HGs. I did this on #3 too and am honestly glad I did, it saved me around 300 bucks worth of consumables on what turned out to be a POS engine. If I ever swap EJs in the future, I'll drop them in just like I did and test-fire for a few seconds before installing the cooling system just to make sure the block is worth using, THEN do the timing if necessary and install the cooling system. Or hopefully build a benchtest setup with SiF so the engine can be tested outside of the chassis and save several hours. Enough bullshit words about a POS Forester, time for the pictures and poo poo. ACEofsnett was kind/bored enough to help pulling the junkyard engine and haul it back.  We elected to not buy this EJ251.  Hi #1 rod bearing journal!  The donor, almost prepared for engine removal.  The donor at auto auction a few towns over a while back: http://tinyurl.com/gs63wth Fun fact, engine #3 apparently had blown HGs too because it was drinking coolant. It was reasonably close to full after one commute but apparently not after 3 weeks. gently caress that POS, I rather enjoyed throwing it into a scrap dumpster at the junkyard when I returned it.  Here is why I pulled it out. Pile of knocky poo poo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaIhFG6jHNQ Motor #3 coming out. gently caress YOU  Clockwise from top left: Motor #3 (gently caress YOU), Motor #2 (  ), Motor #4 ( ) Moment of truth:  IT SOUNDS GREAT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSEmmqHyvxc Oh yeah I did the rear struts on the thing a while ago too: This bumpstop got reused because I forgot to order new ones. Oh well, I haven't touched the bumpstops since then because it doesn't slam into them every time someone looks at it funny.  Old garbage strut apart  Getting the second strut bolt hole lined up with the knuckle  Old struts were turbofucked: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUY_1ANDXMY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhMUvTmiKGg fin e: gently caress you forums software stop bumloving my salvage auction URL
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May 31, 2016 22:22
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So I threw a replacement TPS in the MJ and it runs and drives again, as good as ever. Still overheats at low speeds (pretty sure it needs a fan clutch that's not a third-hand piece of poo poo with 250k miles on it) and still has a weird occasional stumble and stall during warmup period (even if it was already warmed up) so I'm pretty sure the ECU is mad about one of the sensors when it's in open loop still. If I had to guess it's the CTS but it could be the MAP or IAT I suppose. Since it stops doing it after a few minutes of operation (whether the engine's already warm or not) I can't bring myself to give a poo poo until it starts doing it constantly, which will also make diagnosing the wiring/sensor issue far easier. I hate chasing intermittents. I also did the swaybar bushings in the Forester, didn't really affect anything but it makes one less funny clunking noise over bumps now. And gave it its third rear wiper motor, which functions instead of not functioning. Then, last night: (shamelessly copy pasted from the "what you did to your ride today" thread) I started out intending to replace the steering intermediate shaft in the Forester and had to drop the steering column to do that, which meant I had to remove the horribly bodged dealer-installed alarm/remote start that has been arbitrarily locking all the doors and blinking the 4-ways every few weeks to every few months for my entire ownership period. I never had the remote fobs for it so this is absolutely no loss. A loving doorbell button tek-screwed to my coin drawer are you loving serious what in the utter metric gently caress  Again, this was dealer installed It's even official subaru authentic equipment, too bad it was installed by an incompetent baboon  At least it was an official subaru one so there was no wiring harness butchery, it just plugged in between two connectors for the ignition switch and attached to an otherwise unused connector for the lock/unlock/lamp signals. Also replaced the intermediate shaft I went in after in the first place, which had one dodgy ujoint and one entirely seized/notchy ujoint, so it should steer much nicer now. Front struts, balljoints, and the rear diff will have to wait for another day. e: steering shaft https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Avnh_HSLir4 Word of warning to anyone replacing a subaru steering intermediate shaft or box - the steering box end isn't keyed at all and will fit on any way, so scribe the shaft where it matches up with the pinch bolt split in the collar before removal and make sure you lock the steering column so it doesn't wreck the clockspring. The column end also isn't keyed, but the slot through the splines for the pinch bolt is only in one spot so the shaft will only bolt on one way at least. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jun 17, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 00:14
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Please tell me you're keeping the doorbell for the house 
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Jun 17, 2016 13:36
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Cakefool posted:Please tell me you're keeping the doorbell for the house Only if you wire up old Subaru horns for the doorbell so when you press the button it chirps like the doors are locked.
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Jun 17, 2016 13:44
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Cakefool posted:Please tell me you're keeping the doorbell for the house Hell no, it's a cheap shite doorbell button
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Jun 17, 2016 16:59
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Shampoo posted:Only if you wire up old Subaru horns for the doorbell so when you press the button it chirps like the doors are locked. As if any Subaru door piezo would survive a single New England winter.
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Jun 17, 2016 17:04
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Rescuscitated the white MJ just long enough to trundle it into the yard (it was parked nosedown in the woods off the driveway/private road), where it will next be used as a 4x4 hoist/wrecker to rip the red toilet jeep and half-justy apart to stash/use their parts. After that it goes into hibernation until it is time to build the next MJ and my semisecret project. Even with 3 completely flat tires it was perfectly happy to drive into the yard after being jumped, because the battery was 100% dead from sitting. Can't decide if I should fix/build the Justy, the blue MJ, or the 5 ton next. All parts for the 5 ton's resurrection are on hand so I may do that just so it runs and drives again for now. This weekend I am in NYC with the GF and her parents though, so no wrenching till Tuesday most likely.
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Jul 1, 2016 02:04
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Fixing the Justy involves loving with the oil pump bushing doesn't it? I say do that so we can get sick parts machined and save more cars. Also so that the parts are ready when I finally find a nice Justy of my own.
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Jul 1, 2016 02:05
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Fix the five ton Then we can call you in for backup when all the other truck projects go wrong.
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Jul 1, 2016 02:42
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kastein posted:Rescuscitated the white MJ just long enough to trundle it into the yard (it was parked nosedown in the woods off the driveway/private road), where it will next be used as a 4x4 hoist/wrecker to rip the red toilet jeep and half-justy apart to stash/use their parts. After that it goes into hibernation until it is time to build the next MJ and my semisecret project. How long before the 5 ton passes the 25 year mark so you can register it? If it's getting close I'd say get that beast up and running.
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Jul 1, 2016 04:32
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I believe it is past that mark
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Jul 1, 2016 04:35
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ExplodingSims posted:Fix the five ton At 4.5mpg and 52mph top speed I think other closer trucks might be a better plan, but yeah, that's probably what I'll do, since I have all the stuff on hand and would like to be able to at least move it around the yard. It's been 25 years old for a year and a half. I've just had much higher priorities than it.
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Jul 1, 2016 13:52
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Voting for the Justy. How did it break?! I must have missed that. 
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Jul 1, 2016 15:17
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Maybe this will help fix the Justy: pictures of a lifted one 
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Jul 1, 2016 15:30
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I'm not lifting it. It's quite capable enough for what I do with it at stock height:Beach Bum posted:Voting for the Justy. How did it break?! I must have missed that. All subaru engines have a fatal flaw. Every single one ever. The EF12 is no exception. On the EF12, the fatal flaw is that the oil pump is built into the $480 (and probably NLA by now) cast aluminum timing cover, driven by the balance shaft chain. This would be fine, but they didn't put a bushing or bearing in to support its shaft, and over time the side load from the chain and the pressurized oil causes the shaft of the oil pump inner rotor to eat into the bore in the cast aluminum that it rides in. This, in turn, makes the outer rotor tip sideways slightly and eat into the timing cover and the oil pump cover. Eventually they eat enough out that the pump seizes or simply leaks too much to build pressure properly... and there is no real oil pressure gauge in any factory-spec Justy, just a dummy light that comes on at like 3 or 5psi, so usually people find out their $500 worth of parts have failed when it finally runs dry on oil as they're driving and seizes the engine hard. No one's willing to put several thousand into a Justy to rebuild the motor at this point, so they go to the scrapyard that way. I knew this was an issue to expect when I bought the car, but not specifics on where to look or how to test it. It was making a timing chain rattling noise even when I bought it, but allegedly it'd been fixed (they didn't have specifics, the previous owner paid to have it done) and I didn't have a flight home so I crossed my fingers and we drove it home. About a thousand miles after I got it home, I was 3 blocks from home on my way to NEAI 2015 with Holdbrooks riding shotgun (iirc) and the oil pressure light came on at idle coming up to a stop sign. The timing chain rattle also became much more pronounced. The light went out at any engine speed above idle, so I drove it home gently and parked it. Haven't run it since, I don't want to do more damage than I already have. I've got 80% of an engine we got from that Colorado junkyard for spare parts, plus the front cut that Adiabatic and iForge helped me haul home, which allegedly has a perfectly good motor in it. Plus a brand new $100 timing chain guide (one of the last few in existence) and NOS oil pump covers and rotors. So my plan is to do the "bushing mod" on the already-worn cover from the CO junkyard motor, put my brand new rotors and pump cover on it, pull the motor out of the halfcut, completely tear it down, wash all the parts clean, inspect everything, rebuild anything that needs rebuilding, assemble it all and put it into the Justy, then use the rest of the parts motor plus whatever's recoverable from my original motor to build a known-good spare. I also want to tear down the transmission (or more likely, my spare transmission and the 2wd transmission I also got from the junkyard), clean it up, replace any bad seals and bearings/synchros, and put that in at the same time, since my original trans has a completely shot second gear synchro. Thus it's kinda a big project that I want to do in a shop not my backyard, since this is 100% NLA rare parts, I can't just laugh if it gets rain or mud or corrosion on it and slam it in because there are ten for $130 each at the local picknpull. I want to get the semisecret project, MJ, maybe other MJ, and 5 ton running before I dig into a project this complicated. e: and this has all taken back seat for now because I want the house done ASAP. We aren't putting up without heat and insulation for another winter, period. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jul 1, 2016 |
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Jul 1, 2016 15:46
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I was thinking the other day about how funny it would be if you put a 97-01 interior in the blue MJ. So many heads would explode.
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Jul 9, 2016 03:51
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My festering shitheap of a Forester is flirting with transmission failure, so I went to the junkyard last weekend and ripped one out of a 98 Forester. It's a phase 1 4 bolt bellhousing and has the wrong VSS, which is obnoxious, but it was the only hydro clutch 4.10 final ratio 5MT in any of the yards I frequent, so, welp. Parts on order for the swap. I'm going to basically ignore it (but carry all the parts to swap it out in the trunk) until it loses at least one gear, then toss it in after work.  Just to make sure I'm not forgetting anything... anyone think of stuff I'm missing? - good flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing (the junkyard clutch that came with motor #4 got rage-dumped into the car along with it, because I didn't care enough to remove it, and it's slipping a little now) - new trans mount maybe if I feel like it (or just a giant tube of windo-weld) - transmission of course - TOB is only a few thousand miles old so I'm reusing that bastard - new slave cylinder while I'm in there, since the old one has given me trouble every single time I've done a motor swap - exhaust manifold gaskets and maybe donut gasket bolt set? - M10x1.25 tap to chase BH bolt holes if they feel chunky - axleshaft rollpin driver tool so I don't hate life - new shifter bushing kit because the ones on the donor trans are trashed and I bet mine are too - new 1-2 shift return spring because subaru is retarded and puts it outside the transmission, and the one on the donor trans is literally rusted in half - new front struts, balljoints, and brake hydraulic line copper washers + retaining clips because if I'm gonna pull that poo poo apart to swap the trans, I'm sure as gently caress not skipping them since they need doing anyways.
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Jul 13, 2016 16:03
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You can change over the VSS pretty easy but the red loctite on the VSS really sucks. I'm not sure if the Turn In Concepts u-joint actually lets you get rid of the external return spring on this car. They're sort of evasive about year ranges so I never tried it on my '97 but I bet it would have worked. I would probably replace the clutch slave hose if the clutch slave is packing it in, and the dogbone mount since you're already in there. Check the return and neutral switches while both transmissions are out; if the new trans has broken neutral and reverse switches you want to know now before it's in the car. If you're already doing new front struts you should probably chuck new bumpstops on it... Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 20:24
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Kastein, I've got a dumb question to ask and I think you may be the best person to answer it. Ok here goes: If, for some god forsaken reason, you wanted to move the engine to the bed of the pickup truck and somehow still make it 4wd or awd, how would you do it? Porsche transaxle in the back? Corvette trans/rearend and try to stick a transfer case between them? Silly question but given your experience with 4wd stuff I'd be really curious what you came up with. This is what made me ask: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPPf674KgbI
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Jul 13, 2016 20:46
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Ahahaha. I saw that video and thought "now I want to build a rally MJ". Looks like that truck has a solid front axle. Instead of dicking with a transaxle, seems like the bigger hurdle you'd have to solve is where the driveshaft connects to on the front / rear axles, since most trucks have the rear axle centered with the drivetrain and the front offset to match the transfer case. You'd want the front axle to have the differential centered, and then you'd need a transfer case / rear axle combination that both offset to the same side. All of that seems 100% viable if you're the type of
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Jul 13, 2016 21:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You can change over the VSS pretty easy but the red loctite on the VSS really sucks. Thanks for the advise on the switches, I would have forgotten that. I'm used to them being easily accessible while installed. I think I have a new clutch slave hose but not sure. If I don't I'll just reuse it, I checked it and it's in pretty good condition. The slave, apparently not so much, it doesn't seem to leak but does get stuck fully compressed from trying to get an engine mated to the trans. I assume this is because the bore is rusty outside of its usual travel range. Since it's fully accessible from the top comfortably on the side of the road without ever crawling under the car, I'm not very motivated to replace it until it fails. New bumpstops, there's something I actually need to put on order. I forgot to order those for the rear and ended up reusing the absolutely destroyed ones from the old struts simply because I had to put the car back together and drive it home from work, so I wasn't waiting for new ones to arrive. That TiC shifter is cool but I have the return spring and I don't really feel like spending $85 on that when the car is such a piece of poo poo (and an A-B appliance) and I'm used to far sloppier shift linkages. I'll probably just slap replacement bushings in. The VSS is allegedly a bastard and with this being my DD, and the trans install probably happening 70 miles from home, I'm going to buy a new one as a spare and return it if I manage to extract my stock one intact. I really wish I could find a solid answer on whether the early VR style 2 wire VSS pickups had the same number of pulses per mile output as the later 3 wire digital/Hall effect VSS pickups. If they do, I'll just build a converter board and never even touch it, seeing as I design and build VR interface preamps regularly at work.
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Jul 13, 2016 21:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ahahaha. I saw that video and thought "now I want to build a rally MJ". Some redneck magicians used a v drive? I don't even know what that is. http://youtu.be/Ch3goxzxbWU
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Jul 14, 2016 04:09
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Coredump posted:Some redneck magicians used a v drive? I don't even know what that is. http://youtu.be/Ch3goxzxbWU It's the thing boats use to point the engine's output down to the propeller, and I suspect that's what's going into Stubby Bob as teased in the next Roadkill.
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Jul 14, 2016 04:12
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Raluek posted:It's the thing boats use to point the engine's output down to the propeller, and I suspect that's what's going into Stubby Bob as teased in the next Roadkill. Ayup. Us fancy motherfuckers that pay for MT On Demand got to watch that episode last month. Spoiler Alert: Stubby Bob is loving awesome and it's probably my favorite episode since the Crop Duster episode.
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Jul 14, 2016 04:27
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