|
Bumper stickers on paint: What's the best way to get them off? Careful peeling and Goo Gone? Plastic razor? Heat gun and plastic razor? Something else?
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 23:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:12 |
|
|
A warm day and a plastic razor with goo gone for the leftover adhesive
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 23:51
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:
Hey meat, can you link me to the kit you got?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 07:01
|
|
|
always be closing posted:Hey meat, can you link me to the kit you got? Yeah, I saw you ask about it before... I'm in the process of cleaning out my garage and it's buried in the side. I'm almost there. I'll get a pic soon(tm), I promise!
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 11:24
|
|
|
That's megs leather cleaner worked a treat. Thanks guys. Anyone got any recommendations for polishing head lights? It's not worth replacing them on a track car but it is worth a couple of hours in an evening to make them look nicer 
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 12:07
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Yeah, I saw you ask about it before... I'm in the process of cleaning out my garage and it's buried in the side. I'm almost there. I'll get a pic soon(tm), I promise! Alright, here it is. Mostly complete, except for the out of date line board. I'm waiting to get a good light source, hopefully then I can make something happen with it. I bought this kit off of a guy that was getting out of the business. It's pretty rare to find such a big set complete and for sale. If you add up the cost of the tools, there's an easy couple grand here. Now I just need to stop being lazy and learn how to use them. No pictured is a glue puller set, but you get the idea.  Edit: Just got off my rear end and ordered a lighted line board. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jul 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 16:07
|
|
|
Wow you ain't kidding, that is a badass set up. What brands are the tools?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 16:55
|
|
|
Bape Culture posted:That's megs leather cleaner worked a treat. Thanks guys.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 17:06
|
|
|
always be closing posted:Wow you ain't kidding, that is a badass set up. What brands are the tools? The bulk of it is from http://www.inventureinc.com/pdr_tools.cfm It's easy to learn the theory. It's more difficult for me to find the force necessary. I'm used to paint stuff, where force is very important to regulate... and the dent stuff takes more force than I'm comfortable with. So... I just need to spend more time with it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 17:37
|
|
|
 Paintless dent removal is a complete mystery to me. LOOKIT all that stuff! I'da thought y'all'd robbed a dentist with all those picks and pokes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 17:49
|
|
|
My wife's mom backed into her car door. I tried the whole heat gun/canned air trick, but that only works on a very specific kind of dent. It did improve the dent, but did not fix it completely.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 17:52
|
|
|
scuz posted:
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 20:38
|
|
|
Went back a few pages and didn't see this mentioned, but what's the best way to clean the inside of wheel well? IE: A fender liner? I've got years of wheel spray that I would love to remove and see some black if possible. SImple green and a brush?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 05:27
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Went back a few pages and didn't see this mentioned, but what's the best way to clean the inside of wheel well? IE: A fender liner? I've got years of wheel spray that I would love to remove and see some black if possible. SImple green and a brush? Yep, Simple Green and a stiff brush is best case. If that doesn't get it off, switch to a bug and tar remover and stiff brush. After it's clean, a quick spray with a tire spray (any type really, it's just the fender liners). Makes a big difference, especially on cars where there's enough gap to see them. Plus, the tire spray makes it easy to keep clean, because poo poo doesn't usually stick then.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 12:30
|
|
|
Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 14:11
|
|
|
The Rag Company is having a killer deal right now if anybody needs some MF. I added another 5 dry me a river waffles to my collection.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 18:16
|
|
|
I want to buy a polisher and have read that the Porter Cable DA is the way to go - however, in my part of Europe they don't sell it. Is buying one with the same specs sufficient or is it good because of some other reasons? Alternatively, can any fellow euros recommend me one?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 09:20
|
|
|
Grakkus posted:I want to buy a polisher and have read that the Porter Cable DA is the way to go - however, in my part of Europe they don't sell it. Is buying one with the same specs sufficient or is it good because of some other reasons? http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/machine-polishers-and-accessories.html I'm pretty sure this is just a different label on the same thing as a Griot's Garage 6" (2nd gen) and it's very common on the UK boards. http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/kestrel-das6-power-plus-dual-action-machine-polisher-cat10.html There is/was a Chinese made Rupes style long throw DA out there too that the European retailers were selling before they became more widespread in the US.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 09:46
|
|
|
Scott808 posted:
This might be the one you are talking about? It has the same 21mm throw as the rupes Bigfoot 21 http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Cocraft-HPV-720-Angle-Polisher/18-3597 I have it, and while it has a lot of correction power, it is also pretty tiring to use due to vibrations. I also would prefer a hoop grip over the Rupes style front knob. Pretty good for the price though
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2016 12:29
|
|
|
Scott808 posted:http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/machine-polishers-and-accessories.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher/das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher/prod_673.html Seems to work just fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2016 19:02
|
|
|
Apologies if this has been covered before: My recently acquired 01 BMW had quite the mold infestation due to it sitting here in the lovely forests of the PNW over the corse of two years. I did my normal treatment of a isopropyl rub down and orange/citrus cleaner scrub, but it still smells rather moldy and there are stains on the door cards from the larger colonies. Before I slather the interior with 303, is there anything that will remove the stains? I'm planning on wiping everything down one more time to remove any cleaner residue and I'll test the 303 in a inconspicuous place first. *For clarity, the mold was not due to a water leak and only appears to have grown on contact surfaces (IE seats, arm rest, steering wheel- no carpet spots I can tell.) Before:   After:   the spyder fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jul 26, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2016 19:17
|
|
|
See previous discussions in this thread about ozone machine. It'll smack the poo poo out of the odor for a surprisingly little amount of money and time. Edit: Here's a previous bit: meatpimp posted:Sorry for the double post, but this is important -- ozone generators kick rear end. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jul 26, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2016 19:27
|
|
|
Thanks! I ordered one. I've got a few cars I can try it on. As far as stains go, I'm going to try another scrub down with simple green. Hopefully it's a bit more aggressive. Otherwise is there a recommended leather/vinyl cleaner?
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2016 23:24
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Thanks! I ordered one. I've got a few cars I can try it on. Not a lot of time to go into the cleaning stuff right now, but remember to have the car fully closed with the A/C on full fan and recirculating when you use the ozone generator. That gets everything circulated and all the nasties gone. Look through the last couple weeks of this thread, I think we just had some vinyl/leather cleaning discussions.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2016 01:15
|
|
|
Does the ac itself have to be on or just the fan on recirculate?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2016 01:59
|
|
|
I gave some purple simple green a try on the steering wheel and it worked great. So well that I decided to try the drivers door card... Two. Two loving towels turned 80% BLACK as it removed what ever the hell coated the leather inserts on the door cards. I almost gagged. There's a receipt for "leather treatment" and I can only imagine someone either 1) Used a dye based conditioner or 2) Never cleaned it properly before application. I can't wait to clean the rest of the car. Bleh.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 07:08
|
|
|
Also not mentioned but important to note: 1) Ozone is dangerous in high concentrations, so make sure to air the car out really well before getting into it after you Ozone it. 2) Ozone kills mold, which is a really REALLY good idea for your car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 17:37
|
|
|
Not so much worried about cleaning, but is there a recommended conditioner or something for older leather? The seats in my 911 are 17 years old and is pretty good shape, but I want to do what I can to keep them that way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 17:45
|
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:Does the ac itself have to be on or just the fan on recirculate? Just on recirculate. ratbert90 posted:Also not mentioned but important to note: Good points. Also, while it is really good for a mold killer, don't leave it running in the car for extended periods, because it can be bad on inferior adhesives, German or otherwise. 15-30 minutes will work wonders.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 17:45
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Just on recirculate. Also a good point. Not just adhesives, but it will start to melt plastic as well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 17:48
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Not so much worried about cleaning, but is there a recommended conditioner or something for older leather? The seats in my 911 are 17 years old and is pretty good shape, but I want to do what I can to keep them that way. Have also used Meguiar's Gold Class and been happy with it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 20:41
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Not so much worried about cleaning, but is there a recommended conditioner or something for older leather? The seats in my 911 are 17 years old and is pretty good shape, but I want to do what I can to keep them that way. I am a fan of lexol, its two bottles, a cleaner and a conditioner. https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA or comes in spray bottles too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 20:51
|
|
|
blindjoe posted:I am a fan of lexol, its two bottles, a cleaner and a conditioner. I use these for good cleanings every couple of months and Griot's Leather Care Spray for more regular cleaning when doing my interior.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 21:02
|
|
|
Thanks guys
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 21:05
|
|
|
So, maybe someone more informed than myself can educate me. I've been reading about 303 Aerospace cleaner, which lead me down the rabbit hole of leather conditioning. As I've come to discover, this is a highly debated topic on a variety of detailing/exotic car foums. The general concensus (and manufacture notes) is that most modern leather is treated/coated and will not absorb standard leather cleaners/conditioners. I have found that it's generally recommended to do a quick test of the leather with water. If it absorbs in and leaves a spot after being wiped off, it's natural leather and should be treated as such with Lexol/ect. If it beads, it's been coated/treated and can be treated with 303 safely. This explains why the last time I tried Lexol, it just left a greasy surface I had to wipe off and appeared to do nothing to the surface. (Minus the cleaning). With this is mind- what is the general concensus? I'm planning on using 303 Aerospace on my 325XI's interor due to it's treated finish and not worry about it. My FD on the other hand uses natural leather and will be treated with Lexol.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 07:13
|
|
|
You're going to go even further down the rabbit hole. In e46's there were a couple different options for the seats, so knowing the year/model won't necessarily tell you what you've got. There are several ways to tell the difference, and you'll need to do some googling and find out the method you feel comfortable with. Whether it's testing it with water, or by pressing your fingers into it, by scent, lifting up the shift boot to look at the underside of the surface, etc. I think your plan of going with the 303 is probably your best bet if you don't want to give yourself an aneurysm.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 15:31
|
|
|
Not the greatest photo, but what you guys suggested really did the trick! The dash looks good as new now, I need to order some sort of sealer to make sure it stays that way. Even though the car never leaves my garage.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 20:05
|
|
|
Meatpimp, this is the sketchiest piece of equipment i have ever purposely ordered off Amazon. I'll be amazed if it doesn't randomly burst into flames and performs as advertised. Otherwise, I consider this thing a grade-A death trap. Wish me luck! Giving it a 20min shock tonight just to see what happens. No AC/ect- it's like 12pm.        
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 07:49
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Meatpimp, this is the sketchiest piece of equipment i have ever purposely ordered off Amazon. I'll be amazed if it doesn't randomly burst into flames and performs as advertised. Otherwise, I consider this thing a grade-A death trap. Wish me luck! Giving it a 20min shock tonight just to see what happens. No AC/ect- it's like 12pm. Ahem. I think I had that covered in the op: meatpimp posted:It's straight ghetto in its build quality, but god drat, it works magic. Waiting for a trip report.  And ooooooh, you got the fancy double. Look at Mr. Moneypants. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jul 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 12:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:12 |
|
|
E- Replying to the wrong thread like a boss.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 14:12
|
|
