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future ghost posted:I don't think you can remove it, but couldn't you simply hide the icon and notifications from the system tray icon settings in Windows? Yeah, I just do that with almost every systray icon so I didn't want the sub-menu where I put everything but volume/language/sensors to get any more crowded than it absolutely needs to be. Not a big deal either way.
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Jul 10, 2016 16:35
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Checked that BIOS was update, reinstalled drivers. Says I have internet but browsers, games, nothing works. E: disabled bitdefender firewall and it's working now. What should I look for in its rules to see what was blocking Internet? goodness fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jul 10, 2016 |
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Jul 10, 2016 21:30
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goodness posted:Checked that BIOS was update, reinstalled drivers. Says I have internet but browsers, games, nothing works.
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Jul 10, 2016 21:37
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I just tried installing a new 5TB Toshiba internal HDD and it is not showing up in disk manager for windows. My mobo is a few years old but drivers and bios are as up to date as possible. Any clue if my mobo just can't detect a HDD of such size? Mobo is ASUS p8z68-v pro gen3
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Jul 15, 2016 01:44
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Wang posted:I just tried installing a new 5TB Toshiba internal HDD and it is not showing up in disk manager for windows. My mobo is a few years old but drivers and bios are as up to date as possible. Any clue if my mobo just can't detect a HDD of such size?
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Jul 15, 2016 01:50
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Alereon posted:It should work, make sure you're using one of the four blue SATA300 ports, NOT the two navy blue SATA600 ports. A gray SATA600 port would also work if you have a spare. I made sure it was plugged into the blue ports as recommended, and even swapped out cables and ports to make sure it wasn't that. I noticed after the PC had been on for a while the HD wasn't warm or hot at all and when I turned on the computer while holding it there wasn't any noticeable vibration like a disk spinning up. I am thinking the drive was DOA and I need to RMA it.
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Jul 15, 2016 02:51
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Does it show up in diskpart or disk management at all? Dumb question but it has power going to it, right?
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Jul 15, 2016 03:07
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Hold the drive in your hand and rotate it, the torque will be VERY obvious if the drive is on. And yeah, make sure the power cable is tight at both ends, if so the drive is DOA.
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Jul 15, 2016 03:46
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I don't have a SSD for my 2500k, r290x desktop. Pretty bad?
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Jul 15, 2016 05:51
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goodness posted:I don't have a SSD for my 2500k, r290x desktop. Pretty bad? It will feel like a brand new machine with one because you won't be waiting around for the PC to do things.
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Jul 15, 2016 06:05
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goodness posted:I don't have a SSD for my 2500k, r290x desktop. Pretty bad? You should get an ssd.
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Jul 15, 2016 06:29
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goodness posted:I don't have a SSD for my 2500k, r290x desktop. Pretty bad? Yes, a SSD is the most important part of a computer.
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Jul 15, 2016 06:37
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Not sure if this is the best place to ask this, but does anybody have experience writing to specific pins on a DB-25 connector? More specifically, I'm using a USB->DB9->DB25 converter and I need to be able to toggle high/low on certain pins.
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Jul 18, 2016 01:17
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My CPU fan isn't kicking in a lot of the time. I can go in to the MSI utility and manually start it, but I only ever do this when I realize it hasn't kicked in all day. Today the whole system was especially hot. Once I get the fan on, it cools down in a couple minutes. Sometimes it does kick in on its own, any idea what could be going on? The sensor seems fine as it is reporting as hot in the MSI utility and speed fan.
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Jul 18, 2016 03:25
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Rusty posted:My CPU fan isn't kicking in a lot of the time. I can go in to the MSI utility and manually start it, but I only ever do this when I realize it hasn't kicked in all day. Today the whole system was especially hot. Once I get the fan on, it cools down in a couple minutes. Sometimes it does kick in on its own, any idea what could be going on? The sensor seems fine as it is reporting as hot in the MSI utility and speed fan. The fan is off, like, totally? You must have a crazy heat sink. Does your bios have fan speed settings that you can tinker with?
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Jul 18, 2016 03:53
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Yeah, the fan starts off, off. It's a brand new board,. so yeah, it has a bunch of fan settings, it is currently set to auto, maybe I just just manually keep it on. Basically, when I reboot, the fan is off for about 30 minutes than kicks in and stays on the whole day. Sometimes when I wake it from standby, or reboot, it just never comes on though and I forget and am dealing with an extremely hot machine. Edit: For now, I set it to be on all the time, we'll see if it stays that way. Rusty fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jul 18, 2016 |
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Jul 18, 2016 03:59
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Rusty posted:Yeah, the fan starts off, off. It's a brand new board,. so yeah, it has a bunch of fan settings, it is currently set to auto, maybe I just just manually keep it on. Basically, when I reboot, the fan is off for about 30 minutes than kicks in and stays on the whole day. Sometimes when I wake it from standby, or reboot, it just never comes on though and I forget and am dealing with an extremely hot machine. You should consider installing HWInfo, opening the sensors and putting core max on the system tray so you can keep an eye on your temps. Things being hot is too vague to tell if it's a problem or not.
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Jul 18, 2016 04:30
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Okay, so Funny thing. I didn't change any settings, I just looked at the bios and now it only boots to the bios. I wonder if something just got too hot, but now it just goes to the UEFI bios screen,. I can see the drives, but it won't boot Windows now : Has been running great for two months.  I obviously did all the standard, unplug everything, reset the bios, and tried booting USB and it won't do anything but let me change bios settings.
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Jul 18, 2016 04:58
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Longshot on it helping anything, but is there a BIOS update available?
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Jul 18, 2016 05:06
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Longshot on it helping anything, but is there a BIOS update available?
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Jul 18, 2016 05:18
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Silly question, you don't have anything else plugged into a USB port other than kb/m? E: I had a USB card reader with no cards plugged in, in a USB port and it wouldn't post.
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Jul 18, 2016 06:17
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Puddin posted:Silly question, you don't have anything else plugged into a USB port other than kb/m?
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Jul 18, 2016 06:19
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Rusty posted:I flashed it and it started, screen went blank and now it doesn't post. So clearly broken out of nowhere. Crazy. 
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Jul 18, 2016 06:19
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Is there a sensible way to install something like a vacuum bag as exhaust for my rear case fan? I've got my computer in a very dusty room, and I think that as silly as this idea is, it's the most effective way to deal with the issue. It's facing the wall anyway.
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Jul 19, 2016 16:31
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ufarn posted:Is there a sensible way to install something like a vacuum bag as exhaust for my rear case fan? I've got my computer in a very dusty room, and I think that as silly as this idea is, it's the most effective way to deal with the issue. It's facing the wall anyway. I solved my dusty house problem by duct-taping a 20" pleated furnace filter to the intake side of a 20" box fan. Leave it running on low and vacuum it off periodically, it makes an amazing difference. This can actually be vastly more effective than any commercial air purifier you buy depending on the filter you select, but the filters that block a lot (3M Filtrete or any MERV8+) will block a lot of airflow. Alereon fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jul 19, 2016 |
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Jul 19, 2016 20:32
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Subyng posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask this, but does anybody have experience writing to specific pins on a DB-25 connector? More specifically, I'm using a USB->DB9->DB25 converter and I need to be able to toggle high/low on certain pins. USB-to-DE9.... what? Serial? USB? Power?
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Jul 19, 2016 21:06
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Alereon posted:Put washable filters on the intake side of your case fans, so the dust never gets inside your computer in the first place. Ideally your case runs at positive pressure so you just filter one or two intake fans and don't need to worry about vents and gaps. There's aircondition in the place, but not in the room, so I don't know whether using a fan is for me. I don't live in a super warm place, so I only need a fan during peak summer.
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Jul 19, 2016 21:59
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ufarn posted:The front fans already have a washable filter, and they haven't caught overmuch, hence why I don't feel great about the current setup. But maybe that could be improved on. Box fan air purifiers kick rear end because they can clean a huge volume of air, and since the filter restricts airflow some its not actually like you're sitting in front of a fan, and you don't need to point it at you anyway. That said, I know a furnace filter duct taped to a box fan looks ghetto as hell so I can respect not wanting that in your home. The Honeywell 50250 for $150 is the best value home air purifier, though it moves a lot of air so it is not quiet even on low. The Honeywell HPA300 for $190 is top-rated by Consumer Reports, looks a little nicer, and is quiet at low speed. Neither will be as good at dust removal as a box fan air purifier, but they will remove odors and smoke much more effectively. I was in a similar boat recently where I got fed up with how drat dusty my house always was, but since I made the box fan air purifiers I basically don't get dust settling on surfaces anymore, it's amazing. My house doesn't have central AC though or the air filter in the house would be doing more of the work, so if you do check if the filter needs to be replaced.
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Jul 19, 2016 23:33
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This is super useful, thanks. Quiet is something I value pretty highly, although ghetto look is fine if it's placed in a corner of the place or below my desk - assuming the latter doesn't diminish the purification. I assume I have positive air flow (two front fans, one back fan, a GFX with turbine fans, a CPU heatsink (Noctua NH-D14), dual, and I think that's about it. But maybe I'm wrong? It was pretty crazy how much dust was in the case either way, and cleaning that heatsink is such a goddamn pain. (I live in Europe, so I'll have to go with something that ships from within - or the UK.  )
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Jul 20, 2016 00:23
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ufarn posted:I assume I have positive air flow (two front fans, one back fan, a GFX with turbine fans, a CPU heatsink (Noctua NH-D14), dual, and I think that's about it. But maybe I'm wrong? It was pretty crazy how much dust was in the case either way, and cleaning that heatsink is such a goddamn pain.
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Jul 20, 2016 01:04
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So I have an older Toshiba laptop that apparently won't charge now, I doubt the model makes much difference. I checked voltages with my multi meter and everything checks out, so I'm guessing the plug on the laptop is dead. The hard drive (which I'm assuming is fine) has some pretty important info on it that I need to get out the problem is is that all I have is a tablet. Could I buy a chrome book and swap the drives to get back at my info or do I actually need a windows machine? I actually need to access the program stored on it and not just the data, so what are my best options? Sorry if this isn't the right thread
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Jul 20, 2016 05:40
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You can get a replacement cord for like <$20.
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Jul 20, 2016 06:22
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Cords fine, it's supplying proper voltage and amperage, the charge port on the laptop is whats not working.
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Jul 20, 2016 06:27
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Oh, in that case if you absolutely need to you can tear apart an old 2.5" external and cannibalize the USB-SATA interface to access your files on any other computer. Unless you have poo poo encrypted your files are just sitting on there. Just take it to a library or something and use their computers if all else fails?
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Jul 20, 2016 06:51
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GopherFlats posted:So I have an older Toshiba laptop that apparently won't charge now, I doubt the model makes much difference. I checked voltages with my multi meter and everything checks out, so I'm guessing the plug on the laptop is dead. The hard drive (which I'm assuming is fine) has some pretty important info on it that I need to get out the problem is is that all I have is a tablet. Could I buy a chrome book and swap the drives to get back at my info or do I actually need a windows machine? I actually need to access the program stored on it and not just the data, so what are my best options? Sorry if this isn't the right thread The model does make a difference, on many of them replacing the charging port inside can be quite simple, especially if you know someone who can solder (although on some of them you don't even need that, because the power port assembly actually just plugs in). That aside, you're going to need something with real USB ports on it and an enclosure like one of these, if you won't go the route of fixing the laptop or don't have time for that: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool...drive+enclosure I also strongly recommend that you pick up an equally cheap real laptop rather than a Chromebook, because a Chromebook is going to make it a pain and a half to get stuff off your other laptop's hard drive.
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Jul 20, 2016 15:03
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Take the drive out and find out what type it is (2.5"? SATA?). Then buy an appropriate enclosure. If it's SATA you can just plug it into a spare SATA port on a desktop PC to get the important data off. Edit to add: make sure that the PC is turned off while you plug a hard drive into the motherboard's SATA connector. DeaconBlues fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jul 20, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 18:43
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Well, I asked this over in the overclocking thread but it looks like nobody's home there. I have a question about DDR4 and RAM speeds. I have two sticks of DDR4 2400 RAM at 8gb each for a total of 16gb. The problem is my new motherboard would only boot if I had one stick in; not both. The solution was to put one stick in, get into the So my question is this, does it sound like my motherboard was trying to do some automatic overclocking to get the RAM up to 2400 and just messing up?
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Jul 20, 2016 20:50
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McCracAttack posted:Well, I asked this over in the overclocking thread but it looks like nobody's home there. I have a question about DDR4 and RAM speeds.
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Jul 20, 2016 22:08
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Alereon posted:Running at 2400Mhz does technically require some slight overclocking of the CPU but should work out of the box if your RAM is DDR4-2400. Make sure you have the latest motherboard BIOS (after verifying Memtest86+ passes). Thanks for the reply. BIOS is up to date and I tried making a bootable Memtest86+ USB stick but got nowhere so I'll come back to that when I've got a bit more patience.
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Jul 21, 2016 01:35
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McCracAttack posted:I tried making a bootable Memtest86+ USB stick but got nowhere Ubuntu installer has Memtest86+ built in - http://www.pendrivelinux.com/universal-usb-installer-easy-as-1-2-3/ You'll need an Ubuntu ISO but that's probably the easiest way I can think of to get a bootable thumb drive with Memtest on it.
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Jul 21, 2016 01:56
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