|
Hello thread, I have a question about the electrical service coming into my house. I bought a house in the Chicago suburbs about 8 months ago, and after we bought it, we had the electrical box replaced from a Stab-Lok to a Square D and relocated from inside the downstairs bathroom to a much more sane wall in our basement. As part of this, we had to replace our feed with 200 amp service. New wires were ran inside, new riser was installed, wires were ran up the riser, just waiting for ComEd (the power provider) to hook me up to 200 amp service. Somewhere, the ball was dropped, papers weren't sent over, and we were on 100 amp service. Not a big deal for the 8 months, but we are running enough appliances inside, computers, the air conditioner, and power tools in my garage that I'd rather be on the 200 amp service. When our AC kicks on, all the lights flicker. I know the AC pulls a lot of power to start up, it's on its own 30 amp breaker. Eventually I'd like to have 60 amp ran directly to the garage for the miter saw, table saw, air compressor, etc. ComEd came out last Friday evening, did something (not sure, I was gone at work and came home to no power in my house until I powered off and on the outside breaker) and said that I'm on 200 amp service already, but the wires that are ran to my house are way too small and look to be the thickness of my pinkie finger (a regular 180lb 6' male so not sausage fingers or anything). My parents have 200 amp service at their house in Central IL and their wires are thicker than my thumb. I had someone from ComEd come out and tell me that I've got 4 ott aluminum wire ran to my house, but again, this stuff looks way too thin to be pulling 200 amp service. My uncle, an electrician, stopped by over the 4th of July to help with another project and didn't have all his electrician tools with him but he said it looks like I'm at 100 amp service. I'm also 250 feet from the transformer, so I think I'd lose some power over that distance anyway. Is there any way that I can A - tell how heavy the wire ran to my house is and B - measure how much power is being provided to my house? I really don't think I'm at 200 amp service based on what I see, and what other experienced people see, but ComEd tells me I'm at 200 (personally, I think it's because they will have to run new wires and didn't want to do that on a Friday at 4:30 PM).
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 02:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 10:36 |
|
|
I am not an electrician, but a quick Google shows an NEC table which has 4/0 aluminum rated for 200 amp service max.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 02:52
|
|
|
The size of your service wire is dictated by your power company and not any code. They can run whatever they want as long as it works, and every company has different standards for when they'll upgrade the service wire Saying you have a 200 amp service refers to the new stuff you paid to have installed, the new meterbase, mast, 4/0 wire, etc. That means that the electrical equipment you own and are responsible for maintaining is good for 200 amps continuous and you can have a 200 amp main breaker. Everything that happens before the weatherhead is magic, don't worry about it, don't even look at it. As far as whether your service wire is big enough...turn everything on and measure the voltage at the main breaker under load. Generally on our system I see 122-124v or so, but we consider 118v to be acceptable at the end of the line (I never see it that low though). You're gonna get some dimming when the ac kicks on pretty much no matter what. At my old house I had a 25kva all to myself with 4/0 service wire (underground) and my little 2 ton unit would still dim the lights. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jul 16, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 03:06
|
|
|
Hard start caps - do they affect how much lights dim? I'm asking because angryrobots mentioned in the post above that their 2 ton ac makes their lights dim. I have a 2.5 ton unit (somewhat newer Goodman unit) and an early 80s firetrap (FPE Stab-Lok) panel without a main breaker. I'd guess the feeder is whatever was the minimum allowed was in 1983 (probably sized for 100A?). My lights don't dim at all when my ac kicks on, but I do get an audible ~1/2 second buzz from the panel when it starts up. Maintenance threw a hard start cap at it when I moved in; no idea why, I noticed it hanging out by the wires the other day. I get a very slight flicker when it kicks on, but I doubt i'd notice anything if I hadn't switched everything to LED lighting. And I wouldn't notice it if I hadn't been looking in the direction of a light fixture while adjusting the thermostat one day. Turning on my stove seems to do more to the lights than the ac turning on.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 11:57
|
|
|
Let me say that the flicker or dimming I'm saying is normal, is very slight. Actually I don't notice it with my LED bulbs, they seem to buffer the voltage dip just fine. I have a "starburst" style fixture in the living room with 16 Edison filament bulbs...that's the one I notice a slight dimming with. If anyone has an issue like any appliance causing serious dimming, or especially making electronics like the tv turn off, that Is definitely a problem. And it's not necessarily an undersized service or transformer, could be a bad connection somewhere adding resistance.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 13:35
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Adding onto an existing circuit. And yup, was gonna get GFCI outlets. The existing outlet is mounted to the rafters for the garage door opener. Was gonna extend off that in either direction and put one on the two opposite walls. That original ceiling outlet may be a problem. All garage outlets are required to be GFCI protected. Well, GFCIs are required to be accessible, so you can't put a GFCI outlet on the ceiling if that box truly is the first (or only) outlet on that branch. Is there a lower wall outlet in there? Half inch should be fine. If your walls in there are finished, then you might want to pick up a flanged outdoor extension ring too for the first box. That will give you a nice looking box to cover the drywall gap around the original sunken box while having lots of knockouts to build conduit off of.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 20:27
|
|
|
Aren't garage door / other ceiling outlets allowed to be non gfci, since they are intended for a specific purpose and not general equipment use?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 00:31
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Aren't garage door / other ceiling outlets allowed to be non gfci, since they are intended for a specific purpose and not general equipment use? The NEC says "210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel." How your particular jurisdiction may interpret that can vary, but in my area it's outlets that are used for temporary purposes, i.e. not outlets on the ceiling (although that can get sketchy if there is a cord reel attached to it)m garage door openers or largely fixed equipment plugged into it. It's one of those gray areas where you'll find out if your code enforcement guy is a dick or not.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 01:06
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Hard start caps - do they affect how much lights dim? They affect how long they dim, not how much - at least, for incandescents. Other lighting tends to be less sensitive to voltage dips and don't show dimming as easily.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 07:21
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Aren't garage door / other ceiling outlets allowed to be non gfci, since they are intended for a specific purpose and not general equipment use? I'm almost positive this depends on which revision of the NEC is being used. I'm pretty sure they got rid of the dedicated outlet exemption in the 2008 revision. Of the states that follow NEC, I don't think any are using anything older than 2008 by now, but anything built before the 2008 version was adopted wouldn't require a garage door opener to have GFCI protection.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 09:45
|
|
|
Motronic posted:(although that can get sketchy if there is a cord reel attached to it)  What's the proper solution here, then? GFCI breaker?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 15:10
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:
That's what I do for my barn. It was just easier to throw three expensive GFCI breakers at the problem for the outlet circuits and be done with it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 15:19
|
|
|
Motronic posted:That's what I do for my barn. It was just easier to throw three expensive GFCI breakers at the problem for the outlet circuits and be done with it. The building department mandated that when I get the sub-panel installed on my workshop, all the circuits be GFCI protected.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 15:27
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:The building department mandated that when I get the sub-panel installed on my workshop, all the circuits be GFCI protected. That doesn't necessarily mean GFCI breakers, especially if the wiring hasn't been installed yet. Plan ahead for GFCI outlets, they cost 3-4 times less. Or did they specify GFCI breakers?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 17:05
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:That doesn't necessarily mean GFCI breakers, especially if the wiring hasn't been installed yet. Plan ahead for GFCI outlets, they cost 3-4 times less. Or did they specify GFCI breakers? Yeah, if I were trying to save cash on the job I would have put a GFCI outlet next to the panel or somewhere else accessible and connected the ceiling outlets on the load side of it. I got so much of the stuff I used for free from one of my electrician friends that I was at the point of "screw it, I'll just buy the breakers" because I hadn't used them before and they looked like the right things to do in this situation. I don't think I'd want GFCI breakers in my house for things like bathroom and kitchen circuits. Too much of a pain in the rear end to verify what happened/reset since the panel is in the basement. Much more user friendly to use GFCI outlets.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 17:27
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:That doesn't necessarily mean GFCI breakers, especially if the wiring hasn't been installed yet. Plan ahead for GFCI outlets, they cost 3-4 times less. Or did they specify GFCI breakers? I admit I don't recall 100%, but I'm pretty sure they just said "GFCI protected". Is there a functional difference between GFCI breakers vs. GFCI outlets in terms of protection afforded? It seems weird that the breakers would have more of a price premium than the outlets would. One of my circuits is going to be just for lights, and another is to be 240V; I expect I'll just get GFCI breakers for those. Well, I guess I could install a ceiling outlet on the lights circuit... At least there's no convenience issue, since the panel will be right there on the wall.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 19:26
|
|
|
Part of it is supply and demand. GFCI outlets are much more common than breakers, and don't have to have a different form factor for each type. Like Motronic said, there's also the user aspect as well. Going out to the breaker panel if a GFCI trips is a pain, and may leave the user thinking they overloaded the circuit instead of having a ground fault issue. Functionally, they're the same. Also, a lot of newer GFCI outlets have a visual indicator showing that they've tripped - the ones in my apartment flash a red LED when tripped. You can also get GFCIs that have an audible alert, so if you have one powering, say, a freezer that you don't check often, you'll know it's tripped by the beeping. Barely related, I know when I was growing up, when you saw GFCIs they were almost always in the breaker panel. These days the ones I see are usually outlet-based.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 22:53
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Part of it is supply and demand. GFCI outlets are much more common than breakers, and don't have to have a different form factor for each type. That's actually the best argument I've seen for a GFCI (or AFCI?) Inline as opposed to on the breaker - knowing why it tripped seems super useful. Is the cost issue also a form-factor one? I imagine it's much easier to fit the necessary components into an outlet sized space than a breaker slot.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 03:41
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Is the cost issue also a form-factor one? I imagine it's much easier to fit the necessary components into an outlet sized space than a breaker slot. I imagine that's part of it. Some breakers are really narrow, like CH ones.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 05:51
|
|
|
All this GFI and garage discussion piqued my interest for obvious reasons; since I am going to Lowe's today anyway to buy some stuff to solve this electrical situation in my garage, should I buy 3 GFI outlets? 2? 1? None? The ceiling has one 20 amp outlet for the garage door. Nothing else is connected to that breaker. I have 1 outlet in front of the garage, and I'd like 1 in the back when I get this wiring situated. Should they all be GFI too? I have been reading the Black and Decker electrical book (fantastic book, only $11 on Kindle) and it says all outlets should be GFI in the garage, so I want to make sure. Also I am guessing this regulation is because garages are more likely to get water into it than other parts of the home? Is that the reason? Is that also the reason my flood light should not be receiving its power from the garage? I'm not selling the house or anything but also would like to avoid anything hazardous as well. edit: this is the book if anyone is interested: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/159186612X It is a great resource for the layman such as myself. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Jul 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 13:38
|
|
|
Uncle at Nintendo posted:All this GFI and garage discussion piqued my interest for obvious reasons; since I am going to Lowe's today anyway to buy some stuff to solve this electrical situation in my garage, should I buy 3 GFI outlets? 2? 1? None? You only need one GFCI outlet per circuit; it protects the entire circuit. I haven't been paying super-close attention to your saga in this thread, but do you know how many circuits are in play here? Then get at most that many outlets.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 14:57
|
|
|
Uncle at Nintendo posted:All this GFI and garage discussion piqued my interest for obvious reasons; since I am going to Lowe's today anyway to buy some stuff to solve this electrical situation in my garage, should I buy 3 GFI outlets? 2? 1? None? Yes, by the book they should all be GFCI. However, you can't put one on the ceiling since they need to be accessible. There used to be an exception that dedicated circuits didn't need GFCIs, like the single outlet circuit for your garage door opener, but that exception was removed fairly recently. As long as you don't add anything to that circuit, it should be grandfathered in. If you really want that one GFCI protected too, then you'd need to get a GFCI breaker. As for the lower outlets, they need to be GFCI protected as well. You'll need at least one and maybe two. GFCI outlets can protect other devices further down the branch. Depending on how this circuit ends up being wired, your outlets may end up on the branch tips, without any wiring further out to protect. Get your circuit diagram and wire labeling done and we'll tell you how many you need. You got it, people like to hose out their garages. As for the flood light, it's perfectly fine to be on the same circuit. Now it is best practice to put lights and outlets on different circuits. That's because plugged in devices are the most common cause for breaker trips, so if you plug in something on a outlet-and-light circuit and you pop the breaker, now you got to walk in the dark to turn it back on. If the lights were on their own circuit, they will still stay on if your device pops the outlet breaker. If you can stomach it, the codebook is linked in the OP. The problem is that it's written like a law book: no diagrams, keeps referring to other sections so reading any one sentence can mean flipping all over the book, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 16:32
|
|
|
Ah thanks as usual for all the info! I might have misspoke. The book said any outside electric has to be on its own circuit. So I guess any outside outlets can't be "tapped" from the garage. For whatever reason I figured that included an outdoor light as well. And then I realized how ridiculous it would be to have the porch light having its own dedicated run instead of just coming off the outlet literally 3' behind it in the living room. Unless that's actually what they want now! We did actually have a friend who had a house fire and it came from their porch light so I don't know what to think.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 17:22
|
|
|
Uncle at Nintendo posted:Ah thanks as usual for all the info! There is no code requirement that exterior lights and outlets have to be on their own circuits, however there are some outlet-only circuits that aren't allowed to be shared at all: kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, etc. Still, it is a good suggestion to have outdoor outlets separate. That way your Christmas lights won't trip the breaker and kill the lights inside. edit: for your new outlets, garage outlets are required to be tamper resistant. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jul 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 17:58
|
|
|
Interestingly enough we power the Christmas lights from the garage outlet  Thanks again!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:03
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:There is no code requirement that exterior lights and outlets have to be on their own circuits, however there are some outlet-only circuits that aren't allowed to be shared at all: kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, etc. Still, it is a good suggestion to have outdoor outlets separate. That way your Christmas lights won't trip the breaker and kill the lights inside. That reminds me: is a kitchen allowed to share circuits with a bathroom, or vice versa? In other words, is the rule "this room must have its own dedicated outlet circuit", or is it "this class of rooms may not share outlet circuits with generic rooms"? I'm guessing the answer is the former (i.e. kitchens can't share with bathrooms), but I figured I'd check.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:10
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me: is a kitchen allowed to share circuits with a bathroom, or vice versa? In other words, is the rule "this room must have its own dedicated outlet circuit", or is it "this class of rooms may not share outlet circuits with generic rooms"? I'm guessing the answer is the former (i.e. kitchens can't share with bathrooms), but I figured I'd check. Nope, they're dedicated circuits, but they actually have exceptions where they can be shared. Laundry is for laundry outlets only. The bathroom circuit can be shared with other bathrooms for their outlets only, but there is an exception where a bathroom can have its own circuit that also powers that single bathroom's lights, fan, etc. The kitchen outlet circuits are allowed to be shared with adjoining pantry and dining room outlets. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jul 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:24
|
|
|
Bah, oh well. Thanks for the clarification. For context (pretty sure I've discussed this in the past), I have a switched outlet under my kitchen sink that powers the garbage disposal. I added a dishwasher, and the sensible place to plug it in would be to get it into that same outlet. But that means that every time I want to use the dishwasher, I have to go under the sink, unplug the disposal, plug in the dishwasher, and then flip the switch. Fixing that would require rewiring the switch (the entire outlet is switched, not just one of the receptacles). The only other circuit in the area I can plausibly hook into to add another outlet is the bathroom, on the other side of the wall. Otherwise we're talking trying to fish cable through the wall horizontally without tearing out cabinets and countertops.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 18:35
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Bah, oh well. Thanks for the clarification. First off, which circuit is your disposal on? Have you peeked at that disposal outlet yet? Turn off the power and pull that outlet out of its box. How many wires are in there? What colors?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 19:27
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:First off, which circuit is your disposal on? Have you peeked at that disposal outlet yet? Turn off the power and pull that outlet out of its box. How many wires are in there? What colors? The outlet's a mess (just generally dirty, with old wires), but I've looked at it in the past and am confident that it's a fully-switched outlet. I haven't checked what circuit it's on yet, but I assume it's on the same circuit as the rest of the kitchen outlets.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 19:30
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:The outlet's a mess (just generally dirty, with old wires), but I've looked at it in the past and am confident that it's a fully-switched outlet. I haven't checked what circuit it's on yet, but I assume it's on the same circuit as the rest of the kitchen outlets. Define "fully switched outlet". Again, how many wires?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 20:32
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Define "fully switched outlet". Again, how many wires? I'll get a photo for you this evening, but what I meant was that both receptacles on the outlet are controlled by the switch. If I wanted to have a half-switched outlet with one receptacle always-on, AIUI I'd have to run more wires from somewhere, ideally the switch. Too bad the switch is a couple of stud bays over.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:44
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'll get a photo for you this evening, but what I meant was that both receptacles on the outlet are controlled by the switch. If I wanted to have a half-switched outlet with one receptacle always-on, AIUI I'd have to run more wires from somewhere, ideally the switch. Too bad the switch is a couple of stud bays over. That doesn't necessarily mean that you'd have to run more wires. I can think of 2 situations where you wouldn't need to run more wire: 1. you have one run of /3 into that box or 2. 2 runs of /2 into it. You'd have to pull that receptacle out and peek inside to verify. There are other ways to run cable... Is the disposal outlet is directly underneath a window? Do you have an attic above or basement below?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 21:56
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:That doesn't necessarily mean that you'd have to run more wires. I can think of 2 situations where you wouldn't need to run more wire: 1. you have one run of /3 into that box or 2. 2 runs of /2 into it. You'd have to pull that receptacle out and peek inside to verify. Not under a window, there's no basement (not even a crawlspace -- the floor is directly on concrete), and there's a second floor above; the kitchen is directly below the upstairs bathroom. And if I did want to rip open the wall of that bathroom, I'd also have to tear out the shower stall. Plus this house almost certainly doesn't use balloon framing so I'd have to drill through the plate between floors. Realistically, the house needs to be rewired at some point, but that's going to be so goddamn expensive and disruptive that I really don't want to deal with it. I haven't really mapped out all of the circuits but at least some of them are screwy (in the "someone tapped circuit A to add thing in room B that is otherwise on circuit C" sense), there's only 8 circuit breakers, and there's still knob-and-tube wiring in at least some parts of the house.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2016 22:16
|
|
|
Here's the switched outlet. For an added bonus, it's on the circuit labeled (at the panel) as "Master Bedroom / 2nd Floor Outlet".   
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 01:59
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Here's the switched outlet. For an added bonus, it's on the circuit labeled (at the panel) as "Master Bedroom / 2nd Floor Outlet". Why is there a white wire on the ground screw? What is it attached to? How many studs over is the switch from the outlet? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jul 19, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 02:45
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Why is there a white wire on the ground screw? What is it attached to? quote:How many studs over is the switch from the outlet? I have to eyeball this a bit, but it looks like the switch is a little over 16" over from the outlet. I suppose if the studs were on 24" centers then they could be in the same bay, but it's most likely that there's one stud separating them. My usual technique for detecting studs, of running a rare earth magnet along the walls, doesn't work very well here because the wall is covered with tiles. Trying to detect stud spaces from the other side of the wall is tricky because the switch is located opposite a closet, while the other side of the wall the outlet is on (same wall on the kitchen side) is in a bathroom. I hadn't realized that before. On the plus side, I guess that means that if I need to take out any drywall in the closet area, the patch job doesn't need to be super good. On the minus side, the closet's kind of in the way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 03:24
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Not having installed it myself, I can't answer the why. All three wires disappear out the back of the box, though, so to my inexperienced eyes at least it doesn't look like a cheating ground (unless they decided to connect the wire to the outside of the box?). Could easily be connected to a metal pipe though; it's the kitchen, right next to the sink, so it's not like we're short on pipes. In the old days, electricians used to ground boxes on the outside. Typically, they would run the ground wires back out their respective entrances, twist them together outside the box, then attach them to one of the gang screws on the outside. Do you have a circuit tester or multimeter? You could buy a half inch flexibit, cut a hole in the wall a few studs over directly underneath the switch box, drill horizontally over to where the existing box is, then thread the wore through and patch the hole. It sounds like a lot, but that is the best solution I can think of for you.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 05:00
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:In the old days, electricians used to ground boxes on the outside. Typically, they would run the ground wires back out their respective entrances, twist them together outside the box, then attach them to one of the gang screws on the outside. Do you have a circuit tester or multimeter? Re: grounding: oh, great. I would hope that they grounded to a pipe, since again the pipes are right there. I do have a multimeter, somewhere around here. I had a circuit tester but some mice decided to cohabit with it (it was stored in a small box on the floor of my garage). Maybe I can clean that up to the point I'm willing to try to use it. quote:You could buy a half inch flexibit, cut a hole in the wall a few studs over directly underneath the switch box, drill horizontally over to where the existing box is, then thread the wore through and patch the hole. It sounds like a lot, but that is the best solution I can think of for you. Noted. The horizontal distance is shorter than I'd thought it was, which makes the project seem a bit less intimidating. At least, I can conceive of horizontally fishing wire through one stud a lot easier than I can fishing it through, say, three.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2016 14:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 10:36 |
|
|
Alright so yesterday took me a bit longer than I expected. I completely ripped out the ceiling light fixture because the ballast looked like it was from the 70s and I remember when I worked at a pharmacy as a kid, a ballast exploded into flames and caused a decent fire. So anyway I hung up a new 8' ceiling light fixture and wired it up. So there is no longer two 4' lights; it's just one long 8' one. And I unhooked EVERYTHING after doing that, and here is what I have: I am guessing the most obvious thing is I should hook 10 to 3, 11 to 2, and 12 to 1 in the junction box, and 3 to 5 in front of the garage (via pigtail), but again, I wanted to leave everything completely disconnected for this. Also you might notice a slight change. There is no longer 2 sets of wires going to the flood light box. I managed to pull one of them out. One of them was going to the junction box and I think it was acting as a lazy way for the electrician to get power to the ceiling light fixture. I really did not want two wires in there. So I simply took one set of wires out. I am ready to buy any length run of electrical cable that I need, so if I need to buy any, just say so! So long story short, there is my diagram, and all I need to know is what needs to be wired to what and I will be all set! Bonus thanks if you can explain how I can use the 3rd empty gang in the back of the garage as an outlet, but it is not the end of the world if it's too complex. Again, I can easily run new wire down to that 3 gang box from any of the fixtures (except from the 2 gang box in the front of the garage) so whatever needs to be done, I am all ears. Thank you all so much as always for any help you can provide! Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Jul 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 13:53
|
|