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Who makes the better acrylic paints: Liquitex or Golden?
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Jul 19, 2016 01:39
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Depends on what your preference is. I find golden to have a more buttery consistency, and the vibrancy extends well with paste or gel. The biggest differences you'll find depends on the level or grade of the liquitex. Student paints won't extend as well cause they'll have more filler and less pigment. Ideally get a small set of golden and liquitex and compare how they feel with what your brushes or knives. Personally I use golden but extend it with liquitex modeling paste or super gloss gel to make it heavier. Winsor and Newton are too soft and watery imo. You can't really tell what you will dislike or not until you've run into the obstacle a medium presents you. (For me, Windsor requires a lot more medium to get heavy and dry versus how silky golden is).
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Jul 20, 2016 23:49
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I'm taking a painting class this semester to finish off my studio art minor. Most of my painting before has been with oil or watercolor. I gave away my oil paints to someone a few years ago before I returned to school, so I need to buy a new set of paints. I figured that I'd rather go with acrylic paints this time around because I don't want to have to deal with the chemicals that come with oil painting. Outside of model painting, I haven't used acrylics in almost ten years and it was only because I was in a studio where oils weren't allowed because they didn't have the ventilation for it and because the department chair had allergies to some of the chemicals used in oil paints. I've avoided acrylic paints in the past because I've lived in either somewhere in Wyoming or in Denver where the air is bone dry and acrylics dry very quickly in the environment. Classes that I've had to use acrylics in never made it aware to me about mediums like retarders or flow extender or how to use them because they reserved those things for advanced classes so the beginning students wouldn't get confused (in my instructors' opinion). Most people I've asked seem to prefer Golden over Liquitex, but Liquitex heavy body paint seems to be cheaper than Golden.
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Jul 21, 2016 00:40
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Just came back from 2+ weeks of travel to a new Photoshop update wherein if you try to drag text with the text tool (while editing text move the cursor away from the text and you get the move tool) it now commits the text. How do I go back to the old way?
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Jul 21, 2016 01:37
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Star Man posted:I'm taking a painting class this semester to finish off my studio art minor. Most of my painting before has been with oil or watercolor. I gave away my oil paints to someone a few years ago before I returned to school, so I need to buy a new set of paints. I figured that I'd rather go with acrylic paints this time around because I don't want to have to deal with the chemicals that come with oil painting. Outside of model painting, I haven't used acrylics in almost ten years and it was only because I was in a studio where oils weren't allowed because they didn't have the ventilation for it and because the department chair had allergies to some of the chemicals used in oil paints. I use golden but extend all my paint with liquitex heavy body matte (modeling paste) or heavy body gloss (gloss gel) to attain the dry and thickness I desire. You'll likely benefit in the similar way. Cheap too, ultimately. ziasquinn fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 21, 2016 05:13
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I was wondering about everyone's experience with wacom cintiq alternatives. I've been looking at Monoprice. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Battery-Display-Tablet-Pressure/dp/B019FN632Q/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1469116662&sr=8-7&keywords=monoprice I've also noticed Ugee as well. I'm about to go pro and would like to get some more digital experience with screen tablets.
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Jul 21, 2016 17:41
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SoulTaco posted:I was wondering about everyone's experience with wacom cintiq alternatives. I've been looking at Monoprice. If you are checking for cintiq alternatives look at Yiynova as well. I bought their 19U model a few years back and it's pretty decent and responsive for the money. Huion also makes inexpensive display tablets. I haven't used their products though so I can't tell you how they'd compare to the others. There should be some reviews somewhere though.
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Jul 21, 2016 18:29
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JuniperCake posted:If you are checking for cintiq alternatives look at Yiynova as well. I bought their 19U model a few years back and it's pretty decent and responsive for the money. Thank you, I'll look it up.
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Jul 23, 2016 00:16
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I have been shopping around thrift stores and garage sales for hand made mugs, bowls, and other dishes. Things with engraved stuff like "for mom" or signatures on the bottom made with a toothpick before the item was put through a kiln. I would like to eventually break these and repair them in a similar way to kintsugi, and use them as my main set of dishware. Does anyone have any advice on good looking binding agents? It doesn't have to be gold, but must work on ceramic and clay.
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Jul 27, 2016 23:56
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William Stoner posted:I have been shopping around thrift stores and garage sales for hand made mugs, bowls, and other dishes. Things with engraved stuff like "for mom" or signatures on the bottom made with a toothpick before the item was put through a kiln. As per my response in the other thread this is a bad idea for dishware due to toxicity concerns and the ware being largely non functional.
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Jul 29, 2016 00:40
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I've been designing and playtesting a board game I've made, and though word-of-mouth spreading among my friends to their friends etc, I've got a contact with a publisher who might be interested. Might. Before I contact them formally, I would like to make sure my prototype is in optimal, most impressive form. Currently, however, everything is placeholder text-n-such glued onto index cards. My question is, I would like to have some artwork done to make my work stand out a bit, buuuut I don't have an enormous budget. I have somewhere on the order of 200 cards, 30 board pieces, player status trackers etc etc etc that need artwork, and even at dirt-cheap :5bux: a card that adds up to quite a bit more than my budget (~$300-$500 is what I'm comfortable gambling on this venture). I am fortunate to have a 3D printer and a print shop who will do the prototype's actual production for free/peanuts so at least that's out of the way. What sort of options do I have for getting that volume of work on that budget? I'd prefer something better than "public domain clipart" but I think that's what I'm looking at... I don't want to stiff an artist by any means, and I would love to get, like $20/card of art on there, something great, but I'm trying to be realistic. Evilreaver fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 20:51
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Hiring an artist seems like a job a publisher should help you manage if they're truly interested in your design and game concept. At least helping you bridge the gap. Or am I being naive? Hiring an artist out of your own pocket for the concept part of the design seems dangerously close to going full vanity publishing. A publisher will have certain expectations and you'd want their hand in the formation anyway so they are more invested in it paying off. Right? It'll be outrageously expensive to hire someone, too. While a game publisher should had either contracts or agencies and logistical channels you won't.
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Jul 29, 2016 22:25
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:Hiring an artist seems like a job a publisher should help you manage if they're truly interested in your design and game concept. At least helping you bridge the gap. Or am I being naive? Hiring an artist out of your own pocket for the concept part of the design seems dangerously close to going full vanity publishing. A publisher will have certain expectations and you'd want their hand in the formation anyway so they are more invested in it paying off. Right? My understanding is he wants an attractive looking mock up to show the potential of the project in order to better attract publishers. It's not intended to be the final art. But unfortunately there is no way in hell you will be able to get 200+ illustrations, 30 3d Models and whatever else you need for 300-500$. Like if you offered any artist that, they'd be really insulted.(I know you aren't doing that, I'm just stressing that what you want is utterly impossible with that budget. Like not even close to feasible.). Though if it helps, instead of trying to assets for the entire game you could instead just hire someone to make a few sample assets. So you'd get like a handful of designs for cards, a few models for pieces, etc. If you had a particular aesthetic in mind, then having a few samples could be enough to show what you are going for. How much you'll get for 300-500 won't be a lot and will depend on how complicated the assets will need to be and the time it takes for the artist to come up with the design, create the art, do revisions, etc. Either way though you'll have to come up with something else for the majority of your assets, unfortunately.
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Jul 29, 2016 23:22
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:It'll be outrageously expensive to hire someone, too. While a game publisher should had either contracts or agencies and logistical channels you won't. Agreed. Use some free, CC-BY (or whatever) art as placeholder, and if you really want to spend your $300-500 on something you could hire someone to mockup one or two example cards so you have something to point to in terms of art direction. e:fb
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Jul 29, 2016 23:25
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Evilreaver posted:I've been designing and playtesting a board game I've made, and though word-of-mouth spreading among my friends to their friends etc, I've got a contact with a publisher who might be interested. Might. Before I contact them formally, I would like to make sure my prototype is in optimal, most impressive form. Currently, however, everything is placeholder text-n-such glued onto index cards. http://opengameart.org/ All licensed under some variation of CC-BY. Quality varies a bit for the non-pixel-art, but you can at least get started with stuff like this bug (from this set), or whatever else. If you're willing to spend the additional effort and have a sufficiently powerful computer you can also run public domain images through stylenet to get relatively cool-looking art for free. (this isn't PD obviously but even my crappy old laptop can make this). I think there were a couple Photoshop Phridays, so there's probably a tutorial on the forums somewhere. Tunicate fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 05:18
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Tunicate posted:http://opengameart.org/ Ah, that's the poo poo. Thanks for this! Between this and ~5 commissioned pieces for show, that oughta do it 
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Jul 30, 2016 07:49
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How would I take a ring portion of a circular image, edit it, and then rotate it without effecting any other part of the image? What I mean by that is how could I remove the "Vice" part of this seal, so that it just reads "President of the United States," and then rotate it so it's properly centered?  I'm doing this in Gimp, in particular. Sorry for the simple question, but I don't even know what I'd need to search to find what I'm looking for. Thanks!
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Aug 1, 2016 02:23
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I don't know how gimp works, but could you basically duplicate the image onto another layer, and mask out / delete the center content on the top layer so you just rotate the ring above the layer of the original image?
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Aug 1, 2016 03:02
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I bought some Loctite Uktragel because it listed both metals and plastics. I have a metal door hinge I needed affixed to some polycarbonate lexan. (It's for a kids craft project.) I squirted some, pressed it on, it held, I let it sit for 20 min, seemed solid, my toddler tried to lift the hinge (properly) and it came unglued. Now the adhesive won't even stick in the same spot (maybe I have to clean it somehow??) Thoughts?
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Aug 1, 2016 04:43
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literally this big posted:How would I take a ring portion of a circular image, edit it, and then rotate it without effecting any other part of the image?  Duplicated the layer, deleted the innermost circle and the portion of the ring from the duplicate that contained VICE and the decorative little dot things, rotated said layer -21.11-ish, and then eyedropped and painted with a brush over VICE and the tail end of STATES so as to hide those parts of the base layer. It feels like it would look nicer if you figured out what the font and font size of the text was and used a path, so as to evenly space that out instead, though. ElTipejoLoco fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 16:19
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Feenix posted:I bought some Loctite Uktragel because it listed both metals and plastics. I have a metal door hinge I needed affixed to some polycarbonate lexan. (It's for a kids craft project.) http://www.thistothat.com/
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Aug 2, 2016 21:13
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I'm looking for a font that is: - Fixed width. - Completely serif. - Really "stuck-up" looking. Typewriter fonts are a good fit, but nowadays most fonts that mimic typewriters focus on the imperfections of typewriters, and I want a very clean look. The best candidate so far is this: http://www.myfontfree.com/king-myfontfreecom54f11113.htm The problem is that I need to use it commercially, and the licensing situation for that one is unclear. Any other fonts like this one or can someone identify what this font's license is? EDIT: If unfree, the font must be a one-off payment kind of a deal. I'm gonna be using it all over the place and "per-issue" fees are going to murder me. No Gravitas fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Aug 3, 2016 |
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Aug 3, 2016 21:25
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No Gravitas posted:I'm looking for a font that is: Search for monospace slab-serif fonts. That's designer-speak for "typewriter fonts that don't have a lot of dumb imperfections." Here are some, for example. If you buy a font from somewhere like fonts.com they will explicitly state what kind of license it comes with. Most licenses these days allow you to use the font more or less however you want unless you're duplicating and distributing the actual font file (eg. you're serving the font on a website). If you're just printing it or putting it on images or whatever you can get a desktop license for a one time fee.
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Aug 3, 2016 22:32
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Grammar question. If I had something like the following pieces of information to convey: - I'm the muscle. - Well, that's what they pay me to be, anyway - A bodyguard How would I properly connect the last two, with the third piece of information clarifying the first? Period, semicolon, or colon? I know it's weird sentence structure, but it's meant to be conversational.
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Aug 3, 2016 22:52
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kedo posted:Search for monospace slab-serif fonts. That's designer-speak for "typewriter fonts that don't have a lot of dumb imperfections." Here are some, for example. I'd be creating lecture slides with them, which would be distributed online. Is this covered by a desktop license?
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Aug 3, 2016 23:52
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No Gravitas posted:I'm looking for a font that is: This is a pretty nice fixed width font: http://practicaltypography.com/triplicate.html. Comes with all sorts of funky swashes and alternates.
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Aug 4, 2016 00:02
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No Gravitas posted:I'd be creating lecture slides with them, which would be distributed online. Is this covered by a desktop license? As long as fonts are embedded into a tool in a way that prevents people from reusing them it's usually fine. With PDFs (for example), the character set needed for the content in the document is embedded straight into the file itself. Thus end users can see the correct font, but they aren't given a font file they could install and use on their computer. I think PowerPoint works the same way. As long as the thing you're distributing doesn't require you to give actual .ttf (or whatever) files out with your slides you should be fine. ninjaedit: But seriously, most font licenses are pretty straightforward.
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Aug 4, 2016 16:50
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Typefaces are explicitly impossible to copyright. The supreme court had its head up its rear end and concluded that fonts are technically 'software for creating a typeface' and hence copyrightable.
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Aug 4, 2016 17:50
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 Why is my background eraser tool doing this poo poo? It's like it's not a continuous flow when holding the mouse.
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Aug 6, 2016 01:58
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If I'm looking to learn to draw what are some good resources for super beginners? Like I've never drawn anything since kindergarten and now I've bought a sketchbook. Super, super beginners stuff here please.
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Aug 9, 2016 23:12
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feedmyleg posted:Grammar question. If I had something like the following pieces of information to convey: This seems like a stylistic choice but I'd say it comes down to how you want the words to flow. You said it's conversational which kind of rules out semicolons since you can't "hear" a semicolon like you might a period or comma. Off the cuff I'd write it as: I'm the muscle. Well, that's what they pay me to be, anyway. A bodyguard. Which is pretty simple and straightforward I guess but it works? No need to overthink it imo.
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Aug 10, 2016 10:45
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Reason posted:If I'm looking to learn to draw what are some good resources for super beginners? Like I've never drawn anything since kindergarten and now I've bought a sketchbook. Super, super beginners stuff here please. We have a thread for that which should help a bit: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442391 A key thing to keep in mind, there are a lot of ways to learn to draw and a lot of different skills to practice. A major thing to focus on is developing your observational skills, learning to see instead of relying on symbols. That you can really only develop drawing from life so make sure that whatever you do, you at least do some of that. Household objects are fine, your hand, whatever is easy. Fill your sketchbook, buy craptons of cheap paper and just keep on drawing. A tiny bit every day is better than drawing a lot one day then nothing for two weeks. Some folks really like Drawing from the Right Side of the Brain as a starter book so you could give it a try. A community college or art center drawing or life drawing class can also be really helpful and usually not terribly expensive. Atelier programs are fantastic for building up fundamentals but are usually pretty pricey and not every city has them. But I'd just browse through the self taught thread and try out the stuff mentioned in there. What works for one person may not be the best method for another, so experiment. The important thing is to stick with it. It takes a long time to build these kinds of skills but it's definitely worth it. Good luck!
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Aug 10, 2016 11:20
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I'm trying to find the Pantone colors for the current Coors "Banquet" label -- gold, red & blue. Google has failed me. Anyone?
Lincoln fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Aug 11, 2016 |
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Aug 10, 2016 23:56
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I posted in the freelance thread and got no replies (bummer but whatever). Are there any other places I can look/post out there to find reliable local artists to create a piece for me (obviously going to pay for it)? I don't think I want anything outrageous but quality is very important to me (want a memento for something I may be selling soon).
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Aug 11, 2016 03:18
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Hi thread, 2 questions: 1. Is there an easy way for me to replicate the effects of prisma? (I'm assuming they just run the image through an order of photoshop filters, and I'd love to get a manual or step-by-step instruction list on how to create the desired effects) I have photoshop and indesign, so just a basic idea of the order of operations and stuff would be great. 2. With InDesign: I want to make all the text align in a box at the edges. The problem is "justify all lines" is both (a) ugly and (b) doesn't truly align the characters at the edges correctly: (a) Ugly  (b) Not truly aligned  Is there a quick and easy way to make the text in a box fill the dimensions so that the text optimally fills out a text box? Or will I just have to do it manually?
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Aug 11, 2016 23:08
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Prisma is actually using a neural network to redraw the photos and I would think that recreating how it works would be complicated to put into a photoshop add on.
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Aug 12, 2016 02:42
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Hi thread, 2 questions: It's not photoshop, but yes, provided you've got something that can run linux, has a lot of processing power, and you're willing to put in the time to get it running and then run it. https://github.com/jcjohnson/neural-style https://github.com/machrisaa/stylenet Neural networks take a lot of horsepower, though recent academic research has been able to speed things up by at least a factor of 10 for this application. Tunicate fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Aug 12, 2016 |
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Aug 12, 2016 02:47
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A vector art question. What is this art-style is used in the Rocknrolla trailer? Screenshot below if it helps. I wanted to learn how to do it, but wasn't sure what I should be searching up. Looks kind of like cel shading, maybe? 
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Aug 17, 2016 03:12
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I'm going to be painting a trashcan, like one of those large black plastic bins people have outside their house. I have no illusions that my art will last forever on there since it's exposed to the elements and also a trashcan so it'll be abused, but that's part of the appeal to me, an ephemeral piece of semi public art. What's my best bet for longevity here? My current plan is to wash the trashcan thoroughly, sand the surface once dry, clean it again, apply some variety of primer, use a layer of exterior latex paint for a base color, do relatively simple (for me) stencils with spray paint, and finish it off with a paint marker. The difficult part is that the plastic is reasonably soft and flexible, and paint will likely have a tendency to start flaking off.
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Aug 17, 2016 17:33
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What is your trash can design? How many colors? A latex paint is going to be torn off by the machine that picks up the bins. You need to rough the surface then bond the color to it with a spray. It will wear in places but be visible for a couple years depending on climate and if the bin is stored inside during the week or out. Your biggest enemy is sun fading, and second wear away from the pick up.
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Aug 17, 2016 18:05
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