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Need advice. Trackbike has huge aftermarket rotors, makes it very difficult to slide the caliper back on with new pads installed (and pushed back pretty drat far). It also chewed up the old pads when removed, because the outside is wavy. Any tricks for this kinda thing?
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Jul 18, 2016 16:18
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| # ? May 16, 2024 12:27 |
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Chamfer the edges of the pads.
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Jul 18, 2016 16:25
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Is there a position between the spokes so that if you rotate the wheel to the right spot you get more room? Or is that just a Buell thing  Can you slide the pads out with the caliper still in place? I usually do that unless I need to get the caliper off for some reason.
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Jul 18, 2016 16:28
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Install calipers, drop pads in from the back. But usually it just requires getting the right angle and such.
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Jul 18, 2016 16:33
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BlackMK4 posted:Chamfer the edges of the pads. Yoooo.  won't affect braking or anything right?clutchpuck posted:Is there a position between the spokes so that if you rotate the wheel to the right spot you get more room? Or is that just a Buell thing Nah, it's all the same distance around the wheel. Don't think removing them like that would work, since with new pads you gotta press the pots apart anyway (i use the old pads and lever a screwdriver in there with a bleeder open). Z3n posted:Install calipers, drop pads in from the back. But usually it just requires getting the right angle and such. Will try this if chamfering doesn't work. Although getting the angle wrong is what prevents me from normally installing them too, lol
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Jul 18, 2016 16:34
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M42 posted:Yoooo.
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Jul 18, 2016 16:40
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8-4Iof5rlQ Magnets inside of the pistons for calipers with removed spring clips
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Jul 18, 2016 19:31
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That is loving genius.
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Jul 19, 2016 14:32
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:That is loving genius. I'll say. Wouldn't that also eliminate brake squeal? :dadsay:
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Jul 19, 2016 16:25
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'll say. It should help keep the pad from dragging on the rotor, but I think brake squeal can be caused by a million other different factors, like whether or not you're wearing boxers or briefs that day.
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Jul 19, 2016 18:41
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'll say. Re-bed your pads. 80-10mph hard on the brakes a few times in succession. This will also show you what a brake pad feels like when it's actually up to temp. (It's a lot different)
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Jul 19, 2016 22:47
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BlackMK4 posted:Re-bed your pads. 80-10mph hard on the brakes a few times in succession. This will also show you what a brake pad feels like when it's actually up to temp. (It's a lot different) First time I experienced this was when I left my first bike outside on a really hot day for about five hours and it took like a cm out of the lever travel.
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Jul 20, 2016 01:04
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I need to remove the front tire of my Honda CB300F to get it replaced. It's a bad idea to lift the bike from the exhaust pipe, though, right? I borrowed a hydraulic lift from a neighbor but there's no engine frame for me to jack the bike up. The exhaust pipe protrudes far enough down that I can't even adjust the lift to rest on the rear suspension. I guess I'll have to look into buying a front, and a rear spool stand (the exhaust gets in the way of swingarm stands).
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Jul 21, 2016 17:43
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IAmKale posted:I need to remove the front tire of my Honda CB300F to get it replaced. It's a bad idea to lift the bike from the exhaust pipe, though, right? I borrowed a hydraulic lift from a neighbor but there's no engine frame for me to jack the bike up. The exhaust pipe protrudes far enough down that I can't even adjust the lift to rest on the rear suspension. I guess I'll have to look into buying a front, and a rear spool stand (the exhaust gets in the way of swingarm stands). 
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Jul 21, 2016 17:55
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Genius. Although part of me wonders why you couldn't just pop it on the centre stand and tie down/load up the back.
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Jul 21, 2016 18:10
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Renaissance Robot posted:Genius. Well the RC51 doesn't have a centerstand. But I've done that to plenty of bikes up on the lift. Centerstand > Ratchet straps from lift to bike tail (frame, pegs, whatever) > pull forks.
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Jul 21, 2016 18:17
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If the Uly had a center stand it would be a lot easier to live with.
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Jul 21, 2016 18:24
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I just do center stands and weights one the back/in the trunk on my FZ6.
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Jul 21, 2016 18:51
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Anyone have any tips for having a smooth craigslist transaction? I'm selling the 'ol Bonnie tonight and am just wondering if anyone has any tips. I probably should have asked this a week ago.
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Jul 21, 2016 21:14
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Have a bill of sale mad lib ready to go. Take cash only. Hold the cash if they want to demo it, you break it you bought it. Use some caution and judgement. Some folks like to meet in a neutral location, some folks are OK doing it at their house.
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Jul 21, 2016 21:21
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This is a diagram of my crankcase. Where the crankshaft runs, there's a hole at each side: the left connects to the starter and alternator, the right goes to the pickup coil. These are covered with bolt on caps that as far as I can tell don't take any kind of gasket around the edges. What I want to know is, what stops those cavities getting flooded with oil? Is it just that the shaft is really snug in the crankcase? What kind of bearing goes in there, just a beefy rifle type?
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Jul 21, 2016 21:25
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Renaissance Robot posted:This is a diagram of my crankcase. Where the crankshaft runs, there's a hole at each side: the left connects to the starter and alternator, the right goes to the pickup coil. These are covered with bolt on caps that as far as I can tell don't take any kind of gasket around the edges. I haven't looked at your diagram, but motorcycle stators are often bathed in oil.
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Jul 21, 2016 21:50
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Renaissance Robot posted:This is a diagram of my crankcase. Where the crankshaft runs, there's a hole at each side: the left connects to the starter and alternator, the right goes to the pickup coil. These are covered with bolt on caps that as far as I can tell don't take any kind of gasket around the edges. The oil pools low down in the engine sump, well below the bottom of the bearings. If it were high enough to "flood" the end sections, the crankshaft counterweights would be whipping it up into foam. However, the crankshaft bearings should be fed with oil under pressure, and there's no attempt to keep it on the "inside" of the bearing. Some usually does get into the end pieces you're referring to, and it won't hurt anything. There should be a gasket between the case and the side cover if only to account for any unflatness in the mating surfaces. When I take off the side covers on my bikes to get at the stator, a few ounces of oil usually drips out. Crankshaft bearings come in a bunch of varieties. It's common to see a plain old machined bearing surface, or a journal bearing -- i.e. the crankshaft just rides in a matching machined semicircular cutout. This is acceptable because you have high pressure lubrication that forces oil into the interface, so if everything's going right the crank actually runs on the oil film and doesn't touch the bearing surface at all. If you didn't have the oil you would blow out the journals in no time. Ball bearings and roller bearings are also common in smaller engines with one or two cylinders in a line, where you only need one bearing at each end and you can just slide/press them onto the crankshaft. If you have four pistons, you ideally want five bearing surfaces, and to put ball bearings in there you'd need to use the split type, and it's just not worth the effort and complexity when you can guarantee a high load capacity and good reliability on a plain bearing by just ensuring you have good oil flow. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 00:23
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Ball/roller bearing mains are only really useful in twins and singles because you can only really stick them on the end of the crankshaft. Fours and such have multiple main journals so it makes sense to use shell bearings everywhere. E: you edited you sonovabitch!!
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Jul 22, 2016 00:30
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Yeah, I thought about it a little more and realized that was probably a major reason 
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Jul 22, 2016 00:36
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As far as I know, the pre-80s Suzuki GS model line had roller bearing cranks.
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Jul 22, 2016 01:02
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Fishvilla posted:Anyone have any tips for having a smooth craigslist transaction? I'm selling the 'ol Bonnie tonight and am just wondering if anyone has any tips. Edit: I read this entirely wrong but spent a good five minutes typing this response so here it is. Imagine yourself as a retarded raccoon. You want the bike but also can't read, deduce things from context, etc. Answer any and all possible questions in the ad. I do mean all. Have a picture of the bike? Doesn't matter. List the color. Put the mileage in the box? List it in the ad too. Literally everything you can think of said in multiple ways. Otherwise you will be swamped with texts asking questions you've answered in the ad. The two most important bits in your ad should be "no trades" and "if the ad is up, the bike is still available." Also, the vast majority of responses you will receive will be bullshit. 9/10 if not more. Typically, if they ask a lot of questions via text or whatever instead of asking to see it you can be positive the guy will eventually stop responding. Within the first message or two, I generally just put the kibosh on nonsense by saying "I am available to show the bike M-F after 4 PM." Also, if someone asks "what's your bottom dollar" just state the asking price because they're not coming unless you low ball yourself. Or just say "I'd rather negotiate once you can see how great the bike is in person." Alternatively, place your balls in a hydraulic press and apply pressure.
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Jul 22, 2016 02:00
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How do you torque something to spec if you don't have much space for tools? The kickstand bolts require 110nm and I can barely fit a wrench in there, but I can fit a shorty 19mm in there but there's no leverage to get it that right. I can probably remove the pipes and the right peg etc to get one bolt but I think the other is blocked by a frame piece.
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Jul 22, 2016 04:59
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Schroeder91 posted:How do you torque something to spec if you don't have much space for tools? The kickstand bolts require 110nm and I can barely fit a wrench in there, but I can fit a shorty 19mm in there but there's no leverage to get it that right. I can probably remove the pipes and the right peg etc to get one bolt but I think the other is blocked by a frame piece. you take your time and remove layer by layer until you can fit the tools and fix things correctly
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Jul 22, 2016 05:25
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EX250 Type R posted:you take your time and remove layer by layer until you can fit the tools and fix things correctly A really good rule of thumb taught to me by a mechanic I worked with: "Keep taking poo poo off until the part you want falls the gently caress out." Same concept as quoted. Take the interfering bits off and do it right. Alternately grow some muscles and pull like hell on the wrench. "Good-n-tite" combined with Loctite can get the job done, if you're lucky and we're not talking engine internals and other delicate bits.
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Jul 22, 2016 06:03
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Sagebrush posted:However, the crankshaft bearings should be fed with oil under pressure, and there's no attempt to keep it on the "inside" of the bearing. Some usually does get into the end pieces you're referring to, and it won't hurt anything. There should be a gasket between the case and the side cover if only to account for any unflatness in the mating surfaces. When I take off the side covers on my bikes to get at the stator, a few ounces of oil usually drips out. I'm not sure my coil cover has a gasket, will I be okay using that instant silicone stuff so long as it's heat rated? Thanks for the bearing explanation, that all makes sense.
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Jul 22, 2016 06:47
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Schroeder91 posted:How do you torque something to spec if you don't have much space for tools? The kickstand bolts require 110nm and I can barely fit a wrench in there, but I can fit a shorty 19mm in there but there's no leverage to get it that right. I can probably remove the pipes and the right peg etc to get one bolt but I think the other is blocked by a frame piece. Only severe levels of autism require you to torque the kickstand bolts, just do them up loving tight with some loctite and you'll be ok. A shorty wrench is not tight enough though.
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Jul 22, 2016 09:01
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Schroeder91 posted:How do you torque something to spec if you don't have much space for tools? The kickstand bolts require 110nm and I can barely fit a wrench in there, but I can fit a shorty 19mm in there but there's no leverage to get it that right. I can probably remove the pipes and the right peg etc to get one bolt but I think the other is blocked by a frame piece. can you get a socket on an extension on it so you've got space to turn the torque wrench? If you get it mostly tight, you'll only need maybe a quarter turn with the torque wrench.
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Jul 22, 2016 14:04
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Thanks for the craigslist advice. The deal went down smoothly. Now onto shopping for a new biek. 
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Jul 22, 2016 15:37
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astrollinthepork posted:Alternatively, place your balls in a hydraulic press and apply pressure. I sold the Buell Blast last weekend. I think I'd rather have the hydraulic press experience next time.
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Jul 22, 2016 16:05
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I picked up stands yesterday, and removed and reinstalled the front tire on my own. Man, it'd been forever since I turned a wrench, I forgot how satisfying it can be! On that note, when I put the front caliper back on I noticed there's now a slight scuffing sound from a section of the brake disc that now rubs against the brake pad. Is this anything to worry about? Everything's on as tight as it was when I removed it, so I'm not sure how I might adjust the caliper to silence this.
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Jul 22, 2016 17:41
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Fishvilla posted:Thanks for the craigslist advice. The deal went down smoothly. Now onto shopping for a new biek. What are you looking for? I'm sort of in your area and might be able to help. IAmKale posted:I picked up stands yesterday, and removed and reinstalled the front tire on my own. Man, it'd been forever since I turned a wrench, I forgot how satisfying it can be! What bike and year? Are the brake pads new? When you removed the wheel did you leave the caliper in place or unbolt it? If you spin the front wheel, does it spin freely, and is the noise constant as the wheel spins? A little bit of dragging noise from the pads is normal. It sounds like the pads may need to be re-bedded.
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Jul 22, 2016 17:56
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Gorson posted:What bike and year? Are the brake pads new? When you removed the wheel did you leave the caliper in place or unbolt it? If you spin the front wheel, does it spin freely, and is the noise constant as the wheel spins? A little bit of dragging noise from the pads is normal. It sounds like the pads may need to be re-bedded.
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Jul 22, 2016 18:30
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Linedance posted:can you get a socket on an extension on it so you've got space to turn the torque wrench? If you get it mostly tight, you'll only need maybe a quarter turn with the torque wrench. I can't even get a socket on, let alone an extension and ratchet, without removing the exhaust. And that's for only one bolt, the other I'm 93% sure is blocked by the frame and/or the suspension. I really don't know why these bolts are in such a lovely spot, they should've put them on the outside. I guess they didn't expect them to come off, but here we are. I'm considering somehow getting my bike higher off the ground so I can fit a longer wrench in there, that'd probably do it.
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Jul 22, 2016 18:37
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Gorson posted:What are you looking for? I'm sort of in your area and might be able to help. I'm basically looking at ninjettes and cbr250r. I'd do a 300 if I could find a used one at a reasonable price -- unfortunately, the 300s don't seem to have trickled down into the used market as well as the 250s have.
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Jul 22, 2016 19:06
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