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Im having a horrible problem with my air compressor and Im really hoping someone can help. It only builds pressure when the system is closed. The moment I pull back the needle in the airbrush and air can flow, pressure drops ad doesnt build up again until the needle is replaced and air flow is stopped. The pressure regulator on the compressor is having no affect on anything anymore. There's so few pieces in the system and none of them look or seem any different and nothing has happened to it that could have damaged anything.  Edit: fixed it be disassembling it and... slightly moving everything before putting it back together. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jul 20, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 22:07
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Fyrbrand posted:Finished my Mk3 Trollbloods Battlebox: Dude, these are amazing.
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Jul 20, 2016 22:23
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WIP on my Rackham Wolfen  
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Jul 20, 2016 22:34
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Lethemonster, do you use any masking tape in particular? I tried this on my knight to much, much less success using regular blue painters tape and it pulled some of the paint off my trim. Also it seemed almost impossible to match up to the curves of the trim pieces.
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Jul 21, 2016 03:00
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This dude right here is loving choice.
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Jul 21, 2016 06:12
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Zhent posted:Lethemonster, do you use any masking tape in particular? I tried this on my knight to much, much less success using regular blue painters tape and it pulled some of the paint off my trim. Also it seemed almost impossible to match up to the curves of the trim pieces. I use the papery white masking tape. And I stick it to my table and pull it off a few times to remove a lot of the tack. When I put it on the model it just about sticks. Matching curves is about cutting it into small pieces and sticking it on a bit at a time Im afraid. I had to go in and touch up the blue where it met the gold on all the little detailed cut out bits. Touch up afterwards takes far less time than perfectly covering with tape, for me. I tried completely masking the cutaways on the shoulder pads and nearly threw the model off the balcony. I use a flexible paint shaper to push the masking tape right up to the edges and into little corners.
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Jul 21, 2016 10:45
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I've picked up this dwarf golem, I want to paint it more or less like the below studio model: moss and grass in the crevices, glowing eyes  but I want to have it with stylised paint that has come off over time, like so:   I figure the easiest way to do this will be to undercoat in my stone colour, then glaze a few times with pale versions of those colours, and finally stipple with foam my original foam colour on top - and then shade, wash and add moss/etc. like how the mud is overlaid onto the painted track, it would be stone 'under' the painted statue:  Does that work or make sense?
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Jul 21, 2016 20:16
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Southern Heel posted:I've picked up this dwarf golem, I want to paint it more or less like the below studio model: moss and grass in the crevices, glowing eyes This looks like a prime candidate for Bulbasaur's weathering tutorial http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=1103&perpage=40#post428029688 Basically you paint it as a stone statue, cover it in chipping medium and paint it in whatever colors you want. Then you beat the poo poo out of the outer paint layer. Probably not the easiest way, but I imagine it could give a very good result. Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 21, 2016 21:22
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Seconding the chipping/scratching fluid. Here's a good overview of it.
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Jul 21, 2016 21:27
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 Besides painting details, what should I do to make these look more interesting? A simple drybrush highlighting good enough? Or should I attempt weathering. Maybe attempt camo or is it too late since I washed it?
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Jul 22, 2016 19:22
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I would go MUCH lighter to be honest - something approaching tan or khaki. edit: colour scale theory: big things look lighter Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 22:11
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Southern Heel posted:I would go MUCH lighter to be honest - something approaching tan or khaki. For a drybrush layer/highlight or to redo the basecoat in something lighter?
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Jul 22, 2016 22:39
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I would be inclined to redo the basecoat lighter - of course it's up to you and my painting efforts are pretty ho hum. Generally, I've found that people err towards black undercoats and 'grimdark' and it makes miniatures seem almost silhouettes. It's really commonly used with model railways, because people think 'tarmac is black' or whatever, but actually it's really quite light.
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Jul 22, 2016 22:45
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YeahI think I should have primed them gray rather than black. The lighting IS off though theyre significantly lighter IRL. Almost look like I gave a tan army men plastic tank a black wash. I bet some highlights will do good. Ill try weathering with a dusty color
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Jul 23, 2016 03:12
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Something tells me batch painting 20 models in a scheme I've never tested before was a bad idea, but I just can't put my finger on it. Oh, the scheme is quartered red and white 
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Jul 23, 2016 17:16
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SRM posted:Something tells me batch painting 20 models in a scheme I've never tested before was a bad idea, but I just can't put my finger on it. My condolences.
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Jul 23, 2016 18:20
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Well after two years, being a bit lazy with regards painting, a broken hand, and broken relationship I'm done with painting blue things. The Ultramarines 2nd Company with some help from the 1st, Chapter Master, and a Primarch because why not.                  
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Jul 23, 2016 20:09
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While that's a paler blue than I go for on my Ultras, that's an absolutely lovely force and it looks great all together. Is that banner freehand or a transfer? If it's freehand then  Also any plans to do Guilliman's base? He looks awesome, but his base isn't doing his great paintjob any favors.
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Jul 23, 2016 20:57
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Banner was freehand, lot of very simple shapes and mistakes went into it! The base? Erm.....yeah I'm going to get round to it, I want to go crazy on some Harlequins first. All those different colours and stuff, can't wait!
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Jul 23, 2016 21:07
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Anyone have tips for painting camo on vehicles?
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Jul 23, 2016 21:29
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Phi230 posted:Anyone have tips for painting camo on vehicles? Bluetac or silly putty can make for an excellent masking material for blotches of colours. It's easiest to do with an airbrush, but rattle cans can also be used as well.
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Jul 23, 2016 22:14
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Phi230 posted:Anyone have tips for painting camo on vehicles? be like me and do it with a loving brush you pussy
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Jul 24, 2016 04:07
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The Sex Cannon posted:be like me and do it with a loving brush you pussy I did that with real vehicles in the army and I'm never ever doing that again, even on tiny army mans vehicles. (gently caress SISUs)
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Jul 24, 2016 04:21
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Fearless posted:Bluetac or silly putty can make for an excellent masking material for blotches of colours. It's easiest to do with an airbrush, but rattle cans can also be used as well. That is a great idea!
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Jul 24, 2016 06:20
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I have tried lacquer paints and also alcohol-based acrylics in the past week for metallics, and gently caress those. Without using anything but water-based acrylics, what paint poo poo is your suggestion for getting vibrant colored metallics? Like, reds and blues etc with a metallic grain but highly saturated with color? Using metallic medium + paint dulls it, and I'm finding difficulty getting a good self-leveling ink or whatever through an airbrush and it gets splotchier than I'd like.
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Jul 24, 2016 07:14
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Have you looked at Scale75? They have lots of metallic and pearlescent colors, although the colors separate pretty easily.
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Jul 24, 2016 07:20
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Avenging Dentist posted:Have you looked at Scale75? They have lots of metallic and pearlescent colors, although the colors separate pretty easily. Having looked at finished paint jobs for them, I don't think it's what I'm looking for because it's kind of muted, though a high quality of the color it is. I'd love to work with it, but uhhhh here's a few pictures to show what I'm doing lately.  This is Tamiya clear blue over Alclad chrome. It's the effect I want in terms of color, but it's hell to clean. It also takes days to do because of the drying times. So that's out.  Here on the left and middle, I'm using some alcohol inked sprayed over VMA chrome. It works great but again I don't like the cleanup. And honestly I really, really need to stop using non-traditional paint stuff. On the right, I sprayed Ghost Tint yellow over the VMA chrome and it separated. Might be able to make it work with a varnish between the layers, but again I just want it to work.
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Jul 24, 2016 07:32
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You could try some of Reaper's clear paints? No idea how they compare to Tamiya.
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Jul 24, 2016 07:48
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signalnoise posted:I have tried lacquer paints and also alcohol-based acrylics in the past week for metallics, and gently caress those. Without using anything but water-based acrylics, what paint poo poo is your suggestion for getting vibrant colored metallics? Like, reds and blues etc with a metallic grain but highly saturated with color? Using metallic medium + paint dulls it, and I'm finding difficulty getting a good self-leveling ink or whatever through an airbrush and it gets splotchier than I'd like. Try mixing silver paint with GW glaze paint? Admittedly there are only four of them but they are really highly saturated and very transparent. They're also brighter than the tamiya clear paints. Alternatively they glaze very well over silver. Google Forgeworld's pre-heresy thousand sons metallic scheme for an example of it.
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Jul 24, 2016 08:46
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Z the IVth posted:Try mixing silver paint with GW glaze paint? Admittedly there are only four of them but they are really highly saturated and very transparent. They're also brighter than the tamiya clear paints. Gonna definitely try this out, because I own those glazes already!
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Jul 24, 2016 08:51
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Plastic Scouser posted:Well after two years, being a bit lazy with regards painting, a broken hand, and broken relationship I'm done with painting blue things. The Ultramarines 2nd Company with some help from the 1st, Chapter Master, and a Primarch because why not. There really is a joy to me in just seeing a massed army, painted so consistently.
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Jul 24, 2016 14:04
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More survivors completed for Kingdom Death. Rawhide Armour, Skull Helm, Scrap Sword and Leather Shield   Dung Beetle Armour and Dragon Slayer Sword  
dr_ether fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jul 24, 2016 |
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Jul 24, 2016 22:03
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dr_ether posted:Some gorgeous minis
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Jul 25, 2016 04:51
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X-post from the 30K thread, until transfers arrive my Death Guard Praetor is done:
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Jul 25, 2016 05:22
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Dead. Sexy.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:01
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He cool. I especially like the texture of the chipping, it's just the right size for the mini. Did you sponge it?
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Jul 25, 2016 15:37
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I'm reading this thread from the beginning (holy poo poo, that OP is immense! So's the talent in this thread) and just feel like proffering my meager offerings. Note, most of this is over three years old and not all completed...  Necron Lord   Eldar Farseer   Beast Lord with Two Hand Weapons    Eldar War Walker   Eldar Wraithguard     Kabalite Warriors     
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Jul 25, 2016 18:08
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Cross post from the oath thread. I'm really getting to work on my metals with this game, and I tried out some trompe l'œil for the floor. Not a complete success, but it looks alright on the table.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Jul 25, 2016 18:08
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Irate Tree posted:I'm reading this thread from the beginning (holy poo poo, that OP is immense! So's the talent in this thread) and just feel like proffering my meager offerings. Your detail work is pretty good, but you need to start working on shading. The Eldar Farseer, for example, really needs his orange robes to go from darker to lighter. Maybe use a Seraphim Sepia wash? Actually, it looks like you haven't done much in the way of washing anything. Washes are an easy way to pick out details and make everything pop. And I mean EASY, it's the fastest step I do when painting.
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Jul 25, 2016 18:31
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Ilor posted:Dude, you're killing me. These minis are absolutely beautifully painted. But pleasepleaseplease trim your friggin' mold lines first. I do as best as I can, but the size of many of the pieces makes it very hard in places.
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Jul 25, 2016 19:15
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