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88h88 posted:China. And there are a lot of aluminium ones about because of this, mainly sold by these little 'fashion' car brands that sell tees and stickers. Dudes selling them never check materials because why would they? All they see is they can buy in stock from China for little cash and sell them on for a fair whack more in their own country. That's crazy. nuts, even 
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Jul 25, 2016 09:38
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spankmeister posted:It could be any number of things like lambda sensor, temperature switch, gas pressure sensor, relay, the actual switch on the dashboard itself. Reading the code will help. Ta. Have you come across bad gas before? Software for this system is a bit of a headache: half of it is English, translated from Bulgarian, Russian and Czech, the other half is English from Italian: quote:Thanks to the high integration of the system, SEQUENT can assure higher performances without compromising the simplicity of the installation.Indeed inside the ECU there are several functions which allow, in most cases, avoiding fastidious and cumbersome devices that, by this time, each installer is used to assemble, as Modular, electronic timing advance processor, crankshaft sensor adapter, Memory, etc
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Jul 25, 2016 09:38
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88h88 posted:China. And there are a lot of aluminium ones about because of this, mainly sold by these little 'fashion' car brands that sell tees and stickers. Dudes selling them never check materials because why would they? All they see is they can buy in stock from China for little cash and sell them on for a fair whack more in their own country. I've seen a shitload of JDM imports with alloy nuts fitted.
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Jul 25, 2016 09:52
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spog posted:Ta. quote:Software for this system is a bit of a headache: half of it is English, translated from Bulgarian, Russian and Czech, the other half is English from Italian: lol
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Jul 25, 2016 10:03
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Lug nut chat has me wondering: Is there a difference, engineering wise, between lug nuts and lug bolts? I remember someone saying (in this thread, maybe?) That engineers usually choose one or the other based on clearance and whether or not they can help hang something, but otherwise there isn't much difference. I guess my inclination would be that bolts are more sensitive to over torqueing, but I don't know if that's true.
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Jul 25, 2016 14:34
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I'm lead to believe that nuts are better than bolts because you can get a proper/more accurate torque reading on them. With a bolt you're twisting the bolt itself and also threading it inside something which leads to slightly off readings.
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Jul 25, 2016 14:39
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88h88 posted:I'm lead to believe that nuts are better than bolts because you can get a proper/more accurate torque reading on them. With a bolt you're twisting the bolt itself and also threading it inside something which leads to slightly off readings. Unless something is very strange, the threads on the bolt shouldn't be making contact with the wheel, so I don't see how there different "contact surfaces" involved in the two cases. Nuts own because it's so much easier to mount a wheel when you can hang it on the studs while you thread on a nut or two.
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Jul 25, 2016 14:52
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ionn posted:Unless something is very strange, the threads on the bolt shouldn't be making contact with the wheel, so I don't see how there different "contact surfaces" involved in the two cases. I mean into the actual thread itself. And that's something I've read recently regarding head studs/bolts from ARP themselves.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:02
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spankmeister posted:Only in Eastern Europe That'll be the pork dishes.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:10
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I really prefer lug nuts just for ease of wheel installation without the rotor sliding around and none of the holes lining up unless I use the rotor screws. I doubt there is much of a strength difference. Lug bolts probably costs less since there's one less part (lug bolt threads directly into hub flange, rather than hub flange plus stud plus nut) for each fastener, but if you strip the hole you're well and truly pooched until you replace the hub flange and possibly bearings with it, while if you strip a lug stud, you can just press it out, press a new one in for $2, buy a new lug nut and be on your way.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:29
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88h88 posted:I mean into the actual thread itself. And that's something I've read recently regarding head studs/bolts from ARP themselves. It's the same amount of thread, just "inverted". Don't get how that can make a difference. 
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Jul 25, 2016 15:39
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ionn posted:It's the same amount of thread, just "inverted". Don't get how that can make a difference. It's probably a tiny difference and I ain't a science whizz so I can't say for certain, just suggesting what I've read from a company that makes stuff to keep the tops on engines might have an element of truth in it.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:44
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kastein posted:Um... aluminum lug nuts? The gently caress? Raluek posted:But who would make aluminum lug nuts? Welcome to Porsche. Because racecar. They are the correct OE lug nuts for Fuchs, the classic 70/80s wheels:  Yes, I've broken a few, especially the "locking" ones where the wrench flats barely overlap the threaded section. There is a keyed sleeve that goes over the nut that locked into the hole on the end. It's a really loving stupid and easily defeated design which likes to weld itself to the lug nut over time.  This is a particularly crusty one that came off the last '84 that followed me home. SOP is to pull those 4 fuckers off as soon as possible and replace them with the regular non-locking OE ones for street cars and proper open lug nuts for anything that doesn't need to look street. Why yes, there is a special tool for them.....a nylon coated socket so you don't scratch the poo poo out of them. And the sockets are basically disposable as one would expect when using nylon coating for torquing to 96 ft/lbs. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jul 25, 2016 |
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Jul 25, 2016 16:22
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Jesus. That's loving scary. I can't imagine the threads last very many uses given how thin the wall is and how much torque you put on lugnuts.ionn posted:It's the same amount of thread, just "inverted". Don't get how that can make a difference. As I understand it, it's because if you use head bolts, you are applying torsion, tension, and thus friction and galling to the threads in the cylinder block. If you use a head stud, you just spin it in 99% of the way and the threads only see any actual forces like that when you bottom it out (if so instructed by the install kit) and then the threads see pure tension when you torque the nuts onto them. Given the fact that this means you're tightening hardened smooth steel on hardened smooth steel versus a hardened smooth steel bolt into a hole in either cast iron or aluminum, I can see how it would matter.
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Jul 25, 2016 16:38
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Pretty simple question, apologies if it's been addressed. For some hosed up reason I trust goons over other internet sources. 2000 Ford Focus ZX3. Great car, but getting on in years, and the air conditioning is shot. Is it worthwhile to buy the coolant recharge kit and sealant kit, or am I flushing my money down the toilet? Thanks guys, I love you.
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Jul 26, 2016 10:19
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Which V6 in older Toyota trucks is the one with head gasket issues? Any other things to look for on the above?
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Jul 26, 2016 12:28
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Extensive Vamping posted:Pretty simple question, apologies if it's been addressed. For some hosed up reason I trust goons over other internet sources. Do you mean refrigerant? And no. No sealers. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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Jul 26, 2016 13:19
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Is there anything I can do short of retapping a thread to make a 1/8 NPS temp sensor fit in a 1/8 NPT thread?
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Jul 26, 2016 14:53
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blk posted:Which V6 in older Toyota trucks is the one with head gasket issues? Any other things to look for on the above? 3.0L 3VZ-E V6. Unsure of other issues.
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Jul 26, 2016 16:12
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Laserface posted:Is there anything I can do short of retapping a thread to make a 1/8 NPS temp sensor fit in a 1/8 NPT thread?
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Jul 26, 2016 18:37
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kastein posted:3.0L 3VZ-E V6. So the 2.7s are hunky dory?
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Jul 26, 2016 19:29
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I'm fairly sure the 2.7 is a 4 cylinder. You won't run into a 3VZ-E in anything newer than a 1995 model year Toyota. There's the 3VZ-FE that's supposedly fine (it shares very little in design and parts with the problematic 3VZ-E), but you'll only see that in 92-93 Camrys and 92-93 Lexus ES300s, assuming you're in the US.
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Jul 26, 2016 19:39
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Yeah, IIRC 2.7s are fine. 22REs and 5VZFEs (3.4L V6, replaced the 3.0) are also fine.
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Jul 26, 2016 19:44
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Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones.
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Jul 26, 2016 21:56
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scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. I mean there's nothing wrong with it but unless they're already on rims or significantly cheaper than new its not worth the risk of finding out one of them is hosed. If you really take your time to look over every inch of every tire and still understand the risk that they could be hosed then its fine.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:04
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kastein posted:Yeah, IIRC 2.7s are fine. 22REs and 5VZFEs (3.4L V6, replaced the 3.0) are also fine. I've got a 2.7 4 cyl Tacoma. It's happily about to pass 245k with no issues. Friend has one at 370k.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:34
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1500quidporsche posted:I mean there's nothing wrong with it but unless they're already on rims or significantly cheaper than new its not worth the risk of finding out one of them is hosed. If you really take your time to look over every inch of every tire and still understand the risk that they could be hosed then its fine. Slight counterpoint to this: do you replace the tires the second you buy a used car? If not, you've bought used tires and probably spent less time worrying about them then, than you would if you bought them on their own transaction. With that said, yes, absolutely inspect them closely, and you should be getting a damned decent deal on them.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:41
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scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. I have no issue with it, I've bought second hand tyres plenty of times before, admittedly usually already mounted on wheels. I don't see it as much different to buying a second hand car and not immediately buying new tyres. I've found it usually cheaper buying a set of second hand wheels with decent tyres already on them as opposed to buying second hand tyres and paying to mount them. And then you can maybe sell your old wheels to recoup some cost. BMW e36/46 16" wheels are cheap as chips here because people like to fit rimz, a set of four with half (or less) worn brand name tyres usually goes for £150ish here if you don't mind picking them up. The only downside to this is that after three BMW's I've gone through 10 sets of wheels, three of which I still have
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Jul 26, 2016 22:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:Slight counterpoint to this: do you replace the tires the second you buy a used car? If not, you've bought used tires and probably spent less time worrying about them then, than you would if you bought them on their own transaction. The problem for me is that the list of reasons people are selling tires without rims and there's no issue with them is pretty small. If scuz is buying them as a set of tire and rim I'd be less concerned. Having said that I've spent zero dollars on tires for karting and just pick up ones other people throw away, so I don't really inherently object to the concept of used tires.
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Jul 26, 2016 23:06
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I'm thinking of getting a set of used winter tires because it's the middle of summer so I can probably get them for cheap.
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Jul 26, 2016 23:14
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scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. IOwnCalculus posted:Slight counterpoint to this: do you replace the tires the second you buy a used car? If not, you've bought used tires and probably spent less time worrying about them then, than you would if you bought them on their own transaction. stump posted:I have no issue with it, I've bought second hand tyres plenty of times before, admittedly usually already mounted on wheels. I don't see it as much different to buying a second hand car and not immediately buying new tyres.  bollocks about how dangerous they are.It's fine. You buy a used car, you now have a full set of pre-worn tyres. You borrow a car or hire a car, you are in the same boat, you don't know how they tyres have been treated. You let your own car, having had new tyres fitted, be driven by anyone else at all without you being there, and you don't know if they've clipped a pothole etc and damaged the inner wall or something. And in all those situations, you generally don't pull the tyres off and give them a full inspection. When you buy used tyres, you go over them with a fine-tooth comb to check for any damage or defects (you do, don't you?).
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Jul 26, 2016 23:54
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You can still buy used tires?
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Jul 27, 2016 01:17
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InitialDave posted:Is there enough standoff room to fit some kind of adaptor? Kind of defeats the purpose of the adapter I am using (neat install) to ham it up with another adapter.
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Jul 27, 2016 01:41
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Laserface posted:Kind of defeats the purpose of the adapter I am using (neat install) to ham it up with another adapter. Since they're the same thread pitch, can you put an o-ring in there or something to seal it up? 'Cause NPS doesn't seal at the threads like NPT does. The NPS end would also need to be short enough to not run into the taper in the NPT end. I'm pretty sure they'll go together, so there's not enough room to use an adapter bushing or something.
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Jul 27, 2016 02:31
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kastein posted:Yeah, IIRC 2.7s are fine. 22REs and 5VZFEs (3.4L V6, replaced the 3.0) are also fine. There's 5 versions of the 22R: Pre-1985 22R: Carb Post-1985 22R: Carb, significant changes, many parts not interchangeable with <85 Pre-1985 22R-E: Fuel injected, essentially same engine otherwise as the pre-85 22R Post-1985 22R-E: See above, except same changes as the post-85 carb version 22R-TE: rarer than a flying pig, I remember a goon had one awhile back and had a hell of a time finding parts for it. I have no idea what's different about it vs the 22RE, beyond it having a smoking ~135 hp (vs the 95-115 ish of the other 22R variants) 1983 and newer 22R series engines are prone to timing chain guide issues (and yes, they continued to sell the 22R alongside the 22RE for several years, the carb version was sold up until the end of the 1990 model year). Starts off as a loud but brief rattle at startup, eventually the chain chews through the timing cover. I would assume the 22RET has the same issue, but they never made many of those to begin with. Despite the name, the 22R is a 2.4L. Also, aside from the timing chain issue, they're up there with Jeep 4.0 durability.  scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. I've done it. Just make sure they don't have any signs or anything saying "not responsible for damage to wheels", I had a shop gently caress 2 of my wheels then point to the sign and shrug (this was a very well known shop here too). Call around and ask if they have 2 matching ones in the size you need (if you're getting all 4, then 2 sets of 2 matching or a set of 4 matching), so at least you have predictable handling. If your car takes a size that's popular on brand new cars that are popular with tunerzzzz, then you can usually find some nearly new takeoffs. Geirskogul posted:You can still buy used tires? In some states, yes. Hell, even Discount Tire sells them here, they just don't advertise it unless you specifically ask about them. The more common sizes car seem to run $20-30/ea at most places here, with light truck tires around $50-75. In the part of town I live in, there's tire shops seemingly on every other corner, all piled to the rafters with used tires and a handful of new tires. One of them (the one that hosed my wheels) is even 24/7. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 07:21
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scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. Aye, I've got part worns on all 4 corners of my car. They're certainly a lot safer than the cracked ones that were on there when I picked it up!
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Jul 27, 2016 08:59
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some texas redneck posted:There's 5 versions of the 22R:  It's called a 22R because it's the 22'nd major revision of that engine family.* That's longevity yo.*:modifications may or may not be totally ad-hoc with no relation to model year or even common sense because toyota
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Jul 27, 2016 09:47
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I'm planning on getting a matching set of 4, and yeah, used tire places are a dime a dozen in my neighborhood. I've shopped around a bit and found a matching Goodyear set (all 4 tires) at 80% wear for $160 including mounting. Pretty darn broke and winter is coming so unless they're unsafe I'll just be slappin those bad boys on thur  Apart from cracking, sidewall damage, and glaring obvious things, what else would be a deal breaker?
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Jul 27, 2016 15:05
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scuz posted:winter is coming While I appreciate your proactivity, where do you live where it isn't sustained 75°F+ right now? Or do you mean the metaphorical and nuclear winters triggered by a Trump Presidency Brb buying 100 quarts of 5w20 to get my family through a few years of oil changes
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Jul 27, 2016 15:15
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CharlieWhiskey posted:While I appreciate your proactivity, where do you live where it isn't sustained 75°F+ right now? Or do you mean the metaphorical and nuclear winters triggered by a Trump Presidency
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Jul 27, 2016 15:26
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