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Paul MaudDib posted:The 1070 Turbo is the crappy plastic blower cooler. It's loud and hot relative to open coolers, but it's fine in terms of GPU performance. Thanks
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 15:50 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 01:51 |
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Requesting final goon signoff on this build before I bite any bullets. Coming from this setup. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: MSI Z170A Tomahawk AC ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.95 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $552.81 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-26 11:59 EDT-0400
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 17:03 |
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I've ordered my new build but I read the ratings on the fans included with the Define R5 and their airflow is pretty dinky for a filtered / silent case. All of my exhaust will be done through radiators (MSI Sea Hawk + Nepton 240M) so I want the highest airflow possible. I can move the second included fan to the front of the case but I feel like I should get a pair of Noctua industrials or something equally powerful. The R5 is really good at blocking noise but I'll have the top open for the radiator. I totaled up my net CFM / m3ph and if the Nepton ever spins its fans up I'm going to go negative in a hurry. The Fractal fans are also not PWM yet the case includes that useless fan controller from the 90's. Any opinions? spider wisdom posted:Requesting final goon signoff on this build before I bite any bullets. Shumagorath fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jul 26, 2016 |
# ? Jul 26, 2016 17:09 |
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spider wisdom posted:Requesting final goon signoff on this build before I bite any bullets. Based on the Z board, 2400 memory and cooler, it looks like you want to overclock, but that's a locked CPU. You want the 6600K if you want to overclock the CPU too.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 17:52 |
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Trujillo posted:I don't know much about graphics card. Does it make a big difference what GTX 1070 I get? Looking at a ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 TURBO-GTX1070-8G 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card for around $410 seems to be the cheapest one I can find. Is there a reason I should get one that costs slightly more? Get an open cooler if you have a case that has good airflow. If you have a small form factor case with no airflow, get a blower.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 17:56 |
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The current PSU I have only has a 6-pin PCI-e plug, and the GTX 1070 has an 8-pin slot. From what I've read this won't be a problem, but wanted to see if anyone has tried using the 6-pin in the 8-pin slot.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 18:10 |
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/\ Thanks for the notes, goons. I was going to keep my current card, the 280X, in an effort to shave some bucks for the time being. I don't need the absolute cutting edge, and it's done well in Elite, Wolfenstein TNO and Doom so far (the most graphically intense stuff I've played lately). I also don't overclock at all, so it's not a pressing concern, but the extra $20 or whatever for K is probably worth it in the long run.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 18:12 |
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lessthankyle posted:The current PSU I have only has a 6-pin PCI-e plug, and the GTX 1070 has an 8-pin slot. From what I've read this won't be a problem, but wanted to see if anyone has tried using the 6-pin in the 8-pin slot. Err, you need an 8pin to go into that, the card might not even boot without it (hopefully) 6pin means that it's rated for 75w, 8pin is 150w so even if it boots you might be severely overdrawing from that line
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 18:16 |
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spider wisdom posted:I also don't overclock at all, so it's not a pressing concern, but the extra $20 or whatever for K is probably worth it in the long run.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 18:52 |
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spider wisdom posted:/\ Thanks for the notes, goons. You're already paying a premium for the motherboard and (possibly, sometimes 2400 is less expensive than 2133) RAM to be able to overclock. I'll defer to those more knowledgeable, but my advice is to either go all in and get a K chip or else go with a B or H board and 2133 RAM (again, price depending).
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:09 |
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Looking for some feedback before pulling the trigger. Primary use will be heavy gaming at 1080p+ I'd like stuff to run at 60FPS on ultra. I have a budget of $2000 so I have some breathing room, wondering if there's anything I missed. The only thing off the top of my head is it would be nice to have a mobo with integrated wifi and bluetooth so if anyone has a suggestion that would have that and not add much money I'd be up for it. Any thing jump out? Also, I live near a Microcenter so if that has cheaper options I'm open to it. Thanks, goons. Biodome fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jul 26, 2016 |
# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:15 |
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spider wisdom posted:I also don't overclock at all, so it's not a pressing concern, but the extra $20 or whatever for K is probably worth it in the long run. I'll quote myself from last page here: Eletriarnation posted:For [overclocking], you get usually around a 30-40% improvement in performance with the i5 and slightly less with the i7 (higher stock speed) versus the corresponding non-K processors. That's a really good deal in my book, but beyond being a good ratio there is simply no other way to get single-threaded performance as high as you can with overclocking and no cheaper way to improve multithreaded performance. If you're going to spend on a Z170 and an aftermarket cooler anyway but not get a 6600K, you're leaving that on the table for the sake of saving $25 and you'll be kicking yourself in a few years when people talk about how overclocked Skylake can still keep up with Ice Lake or whatever the new hotness is. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jul 26, 2016 |
# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:16 |
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How loving scared should I be if I was stumbling around Best Buy (don't ask) and talked myself into buying one of these power supplies because it was 80+ rated, modular when mine's not, and heavily on sale?
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:23 |
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JonnyGuru reviewed one of those (the 430W, I think) and it was unexceptional in every way but nothing wrong with it. I wouldn't be scared, I haven't heard of EVGA cheaping out on any PSU models too badly. It just won't be as efficient or cool-running as a more expensive model like the Supernova line. That is a drat good price. I'd buy one myself for a spare machine I'm tinkering with if I hadn't ordered a Corsair off Newegg earlier this week.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:26 |
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Badfinger posted:How loving scared should I be if I was stumbling around Best Buy (don't ask) and talked myself into buying one of these power supplies because it was 80+ rated, modular when mine's not, and heavily on sale? Worth noting that 80+ with no metal is the basest version of the rating, and worse than 80+ Bronze. At this point, most reputable PSUs are picking up higher 80+ ratings and that's a good general indicator of quality. If you can't find a specific review of PSUs, better 80+ ratings and longer warranties are a good indicator.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:31 |
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Warranties are a good, if rough indicator of expected lifetime but not necessarily how the unit will perform at full load. I like to look for reviews because the 80+ process is very heavily dependent on companies acting in good faith and there's really nothing stopping them from stocking the shelves with something completely different and giving it the same label as the unit that they sent to the 80+ labs to get certified. It's easy to sell something that meets Silver spec and call it Gold because most consumers have no way to tell even if they wanted. I am not aware of any truly egregious offenses here, but only by reading a review of a retail sample that includes a teardown and testing with a real PSU tester can you get the full truth.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:34 |
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Biodome posted:Looking for some feedback before pulling the trigger. Primary use will be heavy gaming at 1080p+ I'd like stuff to run at 60FPS on ultra. I could be wrong but I don't think you can overclock with that motherboard. Z = overclock, B or M = no overclock. If you're using pcpartpicker you can go to your system build and copy/paste the BB code, which is how everyone makes those nicely formatted and linked lists. Makes it easier to get feedback if people can click to review the parts.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:41 |
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Biodome posted:Looking for some feedback before pulling the trigger. Primary use will be heavy gaming at 1080p+ I'd like stuff to run at 60FPS on ultra. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.79 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: GeIL SUPER LUCE 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card ($269.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($72.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1055.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-26 14:45 EDT-0400 3 main things I changed: 1. You had an overclocking CPU and DDR4-3000 memory, but your motherboard didn't support either of those. I switched it out for a z170 motherboard that can. 2. A 1080 is waaaaaaaay overkill for 1080p@60FPS gaming, so I dropped you down the much cheaper RX 480. It'll be more than enough for any modern game at that resolution. 3. Full tower cases are generally more trouble than their worth, so gave you a very good mid-tower. The Define S is very solidly built, quiet, and fit whatever you want in it unless you have a shitton of harddrives.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:52 |
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Neo_Crimson posted:2. A 1080 is waaaaaaaay overkill for 1080p@60FPS gaming, so I dropped you down the much cheaper RX 480. It'll be more than enough for any modern game at that resolution. I agree with not getting the 1080 unless you want to do 1440p+, but I would say that if you're going to pay $270 for an RX 480 you might as well get a slightly faster 1060 without a lovely blower cooler instead. Newegg has an EVGA model in stock for $260 right now. Unless you have a Freesync monitor or plan to get one (or really care about AotS/Hitman a lot) I don't think there's a downside.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 19:56 |
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Eletriarnation posted:I agree with not getting the 1080 unless you want to do 1440p+, but I would say that if you're going to pay $270 for an RX 480 you might as well get a slightly faster 1060 without a lovely blower cooler instead. Newegg has an EVGA model in stock for $260 right now. Unless you have a Freesync monitor or plan to get one (or really care about AotS/Hitman a lot) I don't think there's a downside. I'm going to second this. Between power consumption and driver fuckery, I can't recommend AMD when there's a comparably priced NVidia available.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:02 |
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Neo_Crimson posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant This is great stuff! Thank you, good to know about the overkill. I have a 1440p monitor so I might run it at that instead but it would probably keep up, right? Also, thanks for the nvidia suggestion. I'll get to ordering.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:03 |
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I would say that freesync is enough to recommend a 480 over a 1060, but it's a nonfactor if you're not in the market for a monitor.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:05 |
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1080 is never overkill since you can supersample. If you have the money a better GPU never hurts.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:09 |
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Eletriarnation posted:JonnyGuru reviewed one of those (the 430W, I think) and it was unexceptional in every way but nothing wrong with it. I wouldn't be scared, I haven't heard of EVGA cheaping out on any PSU models too badly. It just won't be as efficient or cool-running as a more expensive model like the Supernova line. This makes me less concerned. It does appear that while one blurb said it was modular, it isn't modular. That alone might cause it to take a trip back to Best Buy, even though it seems like it's actually OK overall. I have an Antec Earthwatts 500B, and it's been great for a long time, but it's been a long time. I don't think it'll struggle with my new parts, it's just getting old. Badfinger fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jul 26, 2016 |
# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:16 |
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My current rig is an i5 3570K with 8GB RAM with a Samsung 850 EVO SSD. I was thinking of building a new machine when Kay Lake is available. Would I see much of a performance increase?
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:33 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:My current rig is an i5 3570K with 8GB RAM with a Samsung 850 EVO SSD. I was thinking of building a new machine when Kay Lake is available. Would I see much of a performance increase?
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 20:51 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:My current rig is an i5 3570K with 8GB RAM with a Samsung 850 EVO SSD. I was thinking of building a new machine when Kay Lake is available. Would I see much of a performance increase? Are you running at stock speed? If so, why? If not, how fast are you running it? Because Kaby Lake is neither a die shrink nor a new architecture and Intel hasn't said anything about it improving performance in a general sense, I would expect it to be effectively Skylake with some newer side features. No one should wait around for it unless they really care about integrated graphics, better H.265 en/decoding, or Thunderbolt 3. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jul 26, 2016 |
# ? Jul 26, 2016 21:08 |
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Shumagorath posted:I've ordered my new build but I read the ratings on the fans included with the Define R5 and their airflow is pretty dinky for a filtered / silent case. All of my exhaust will be done through radiators (MSI Sea Hawk + Nepton 240M) so I want the highest airflow possible. I can move the second included fan to the front of the case but I feel like I should get a pair of Noctua industrials or something equally powerful. The R5 is really good at blocking noise but I'll have the top open for the radiator. I totaled up my net CFM / m3ph and if the Nepton ever spins its fans up I'm going to go negative in a hurry. The Fractal fans are also not PWM yet the case includes that useless fan controller from the 90's. Sorry to quote on same page but this thread moves so fast. Any Define R5 owners able to comment on the stock fans and whether both on intake can feed a 120mm and 240mm radiator on exhaust? I'll have to mount both at the front as my PSU doesn't leave enough room for a 140mm fan in the bottom. I want enough pressure to be pushing air out of the other perforations near the motherboard. I have a pair of these in my Amazon cart for next-day: http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-industrial/nf-a14-industrialppc-2000-pwm Norns posted:1080 is never overkill since you can supersample. Shumagorath fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jul 26, 2016 |
# ? Jul 26, 2016 21:13 |
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Yeah I have a 1070 on triples myself. If I had a couple hundred extra I would have grabbed a 1080. It wasn't a planned upgrade though so I had to go with the "cheaper" option.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 21:20 |
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I see your point but $300 was like an extra 11% of my total build price on a list already dominated by the graphics card. I'm already due to spend close to $1000 on storage in the next quarter.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 21:23 |
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So I am in the market for a new PSU. I have had a Corsair HX620w for quite awhile now and even though I haven't had a problem with it I want to replace it with something newer before something would/could happen. I am looking at something around the same in quality with a higher wattage around 1000w although higher is always better, fully modular. with good cooling and I'd like to stick under $200 bucks. I have tended to stick with Seasonic units in the past as the Corsair was but with the current marketplace it is next to impossible to tell who is the actual OEM of things anymore. I appreciate the assistance.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 21:55 |
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Biodome posted:This is great stuff! Thank you, good to know about the overkill. I have a 1440p monitor so I might run it at that instead but it would probably keep up, right? The 480 runs better than a 970 at resolutions higher than 1080p (where it's otherwise around the same), but if you have the budget and a 1440p monitor, I'd suggest a GTX 1070.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 22:20 |
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Badfinger posted:This makes me less concerned. It does appear that while one blurb said it was modular, it isn't modular. That alone might cause it to take a trip back to Best Buy, even though it seems like it's actually OK overall. I have an Antec Earthwatts 500B, and it's been great for a long time, but it's been a long time. I don't think it'll struggle with my new parts, it's just getting old. holy poo poo I actually bought this PSU in 2009 with the case it came in. Maybe I should hang on to this other one just as an insurance policy.
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 22:36 |
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Biodome posted:This is great stuff! Thank you, good to know about the overkill. I have a 1440p monitor so I might run it at that instead but it would probably keep up, right? If you have a 1440p monitor neither the 1070 or the 1080 are strictly overkill. Definitely don't go lower than a 1070 if it's in budget, it sits on similar price to performance but the added performance will be very, very appreciated. Hell, even the 1080 would help you out in a lot of triple A games at 1440p, though it is less optimal for price/performance (the 1070 is 75% as fast and 60% of the cost)>
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# ? Jul 26, 2016 23:41 |
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Eletriarnation posted:Are you running at stock speed? If so, why? If not, how fast are you running it? It's running at 4.2GHz. I was thinking that half a decade of CPU iteration would provide a reasonable performance bump. I know Intel has been focusing on efficiency, power consumption and heat and so on but to think that 5 years on I'll not be much better off is a bit disappointing. I know in one sense it's good that Intel's processors perform so well anyway that we're seeing diminishing returns, but it's a bit... boring. Next time round I was thinking of going for an i7 K CPU, mainly for the increase stock clock speed, allowing me to maybe hit 4.5GHz OC. Still little point? WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jul 27, 2016 |
# ? Jul 27, 2016 00:00 |
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BurritoJustice posted:If you have a 1440p monitor neither the 1070 or the 1080 are strictly overkill. Definitely don't go lower than a 1070 if it's in budget, it sits on similar price to performance but the added performance will be very, very appreciated. Hell, even the 1080 would help you out in a lot of triple A games at 1440p, though it is less optimal for price/performance (the 1070 is 75% as fast and 60% of the cost)> It's in budget for sure and that's good to know about the 1080. I think I'll spring for the 1080 so I can get the most at 1440p for a bit longer. Everything else according to the revised build, thanks, y'all. Now to figure out overclocking.
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# ? Jul 27, 2016 00:03 |
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Gotta play video games. Old computer has been given away in parts and was years old anyway. What country are you in? Germany, but I can also buy parts in USA and bring them back. That would be a terrible idea for like a motherboard, but prices are so different that for RAM and storage as examples I imagine it could be good. What are you using the system for? >60 FPS clicking on dudes in first person shooters. High end GameCube, PS2, and Wii emulation with upscaled internal resolution and fancy effects. It might be cool to play Minecraft pimped out w/ mods or dwarf fortress without it running like poo poo, but even friends with good hardware can't manage that. I don't care about resolutions beyond 1080p and settings below ultra are acceptable, but I HATE vertical tearing as well as lag related to vsync. I really appreciated high FPS with quake 3 and team fortress 2 in my younger days. Fast Sync in these new nvidia Pascal cards really appeals to me. A high FPS monitor is already expensive enough without G-sync compatibility on top of it. I hear there is an argument to be made for AMD cards here and I'd like to hear it, but nvidia's lower power consumption and fast sync interest me. Honestly I would gladly take 720p good settings at 120hz over 1080p ultra settings at 60hz for popular shooters. I would not dream of asking for more than ultra settings 1080p@120hz. Absolutely no screen tearing or vsync. The computer will be used for both desktop gaming and couch-tv-controller gaming. Noise levels, a small case, and overclockability are secondary concerns. What's your budget? Around 1000 before the monitor. I also need a recommendation for a keyboard with cherry micro switches. Maybe a GTX 1060 is enough? I am probably misinformed about some of this. Hopefully a patient goon is willing to lecture me on GPUs.
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# ? Jul 27, 2016 00:39 |
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Badfinger posted:This makes me less concerned. It does appear that while one blurb said it was modular, it isn't modular. That alone might cause it to take a trip back to Best Buy, even though it seems like it's actually OK overall. I have an Antec Earthwatts 500B, and it's been great for a long time, but it's been a long time. I don't think it'll struggle with my new parts, it's just getting old. My suggestion would just be to buy an appropriate EVGA G2 and be done with it. The EVGA G2/P2 have pretty insane build quality and a 10-year warranty to back it up, it's vastly better than their entry-level units. Something like the G2 750W, newegg has them for $90 AR right now and if you order other parts you can do $25-off-$200 with coupon PP2016BTS if you pay through Paypal. PSUs are worth it, the rest of the components' safety/stability depends on them and they can have unpredictable/destructive failure modes so it's a bad idea to run them to failure.
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# ? Jul 27, 2016 01:45 |
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I'm looking to get a smaller case but I have a non-modular PSU, is it worth spending some of my upgrade cash on a modular PSU to help alleviate problems with space?
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# ? Jul 27, 2016 02:51 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 01:51 |
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Heran Bago posted:Maybe a GTX 1060 is enough? I am probably misinformed about some of this. Hopefully a patient goon is willing to lecture me on GPUs. edit: I'm a dumb dumb head. LogicalFallacy fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Jul 27, 2016 |
# ? Jul 27, 2016 02:52 |