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Last weekend I set a new record for highway mileage: 26.9 mpg!  And that's with A/C!
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Jul 29, 2016 17:34
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Mr. Powers posted:So, it sounds like the dealership is screwing you. If you live in the Pacific North West, contact Joe Spitz of cars101.com and see what price he can give you. Also check truecar.com and at least see what that price comes up at. You shouldn't pay more than list price. I think it's a "This car sells itself, go pound salt" attitude. Not quite as apparent as my Volkswagen experience (the dealer literally said "If you don't buy this car, someone else will" to me), but I could definitely feel it. First off they listed the '17 and not the '16. I told them that I said over and over again I wanted a '16. Then they list the MSRP way above the MSRP, then they gave me a "sales price" again a chunk above MSRP. My impression was there was going to be zero negotiation on the bottom line price. I understand that they're not a non-profit, but come on.
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Jul 29, 2016 18:29
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Shouldn't be that hard to find a dealer that will go invoice or lower. It's worth emailing or calling around to different dealers and see what they offer. It's well worth driving an hour or two if it means you'll save a couple thousand dollars.
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Jul 29, 2016 18:36
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The best I've gotten in my 17 WRX has been 32 mpg average on the highway and I was excited seeing that.
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Jul 29, 2016 20:40
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Best my '11 WRX has managed on a long highway trip is 24.7. Exact same trip in my BRZ at the same speeds was 34.8. Best strategy I've used for buying a car is email a bunch of dealers exactly what you want. State that the MSRP of that car as configured is X and the invoice is Y. Then ask them what they will do. Eventually one will crack and give a blanket statement of "$100 over invoice on anything" or something like that. If they refuse to give a price over email, I thank them for their time and say I have enough interested parties that will do that and stop dealing with them. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 21:23
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bull3964 posted:Best my '11 WRX has managed on a long highway trip is 24.7. 
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Jul 29, 2016 21:29
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net work error posted:The best I've gotten in my 17 WRX has been 32 mpg average on the highway and I was excited seeing that. 22 is the best I've gotten. 
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Jul 29, 2016 21:56
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mariooncrack posted:Shouldn't be that hard to find a dealer that will go invoice or lower. Yeah, I still have some other options. I'll call around.
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Jul 29, 2016 21:58
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Shrapnig posted:22 is the best I've gotten. ...18 
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Jul 29, 2016 22:10
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02 WRX Wagon and I got 28.2 as my best.
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Jul 29, 2016 22:32
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I got 28ish in my tuned, modded 07 WRX driving from PA to upstate NY last weekend. My best before then was about 21. 
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Jul 29, 2016 22:33
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16 WRX. I have a non-highway commute and average 25. I get about 32-34 on the highway. I average about 19-20 city if I don't drive like a grandma, however.
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Jul 29, 2016 23:32
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Dear lord guys. I get 22 when I'm lead footing everywhere. I manage about 35mpg after a few hours. This is with mudflaps and 265mm tires. Oh I guess a 93 octane Cobb tune helps, too.
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Jul 30, 2016 05:44
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I have NFI what those moon units are, but 8.7l per 100 km is the best I did in the MY06 WRX. 99 Forester is 7ish per 100. Incoming post on what I bought today. I'm soooooooo dead when they get dragged home tomorrow.
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Jul 30, 2016 08:44
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I bought A Thing today
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Jul 30, 2016 13:29
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um excuse me posted:Dear lord guys. I get 22 when I'm lead footing everywhere. I manage about 35mpg after a few hours. This is with mudflaps and 265mm tires. Oh I guess a 93 octane Cobb tune helps, too. My commute is 5 miles of interstate and 2 miles of surface/city streets and I get 16.1, so yeah.
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Jul 30, 2016 13:40
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'04 WRX, 30 highway before mods, 26-28 now after turboback, headers and tune with ac on and car full of camping gear+friend. 16 around town because 2 mile commute. Fuelly is pretty cool for tracking mileage. http://www.fuelly.com/driver/boogalo
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Jul 30, 2016 14:17
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I bought A Thing today S/tb?
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Jul 30, 2016 15:56
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:16 WRX. I have a non-highway commute and average 25. I get about 32-34 on the highway. That's some poo poo, my basic 2012 Impreza got 34 once on a trip of 4 hours of flat 50 mph country roads. I've been averaging 21-24 puttering around town all city. If only the WRX didn't abandon the hatch.
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Jul 30, 2016 16:42
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I bought A Thing today Yesss, I just tore apart my 99 to put a bunch of work into it. Much Foz love.
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Jul 31, 2016 05:25
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Hmmm, that's a cool model, I'll look at the panels It's in fact a Forester GT - same motor, same gearbox etc, but smaller turbo (TF035) and only a few very minor trim differences between it and the Limited. So basically a detuned WRX motor and a WRX driveline in a 1 Gen Forester. 500 bucks in amazing condition, other than the blown motor. We'll get thr motor fixed, out on a WRX turbo and ECU so it really gets going Another Subaru bought incoming!
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Jul 31, 2016 09:25
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Speaking of blown motors, my 98 Outback has started to make a pretty awful metal on metal noise under high load when it's hot. It's got a lot of sentimental value, no rust, and everything works (including A/C) so I'd like to fix/improve it. What are my engine options without doing massive modifications other than wiring? I don't mind sitting there with a harness and a soldering iron for a couple days but would rather not have to replace the rest of the drivetrain. Just for sanity's sake too what would be the cheapest option? Made it to 200k at least  
Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jul 31, 2016 |
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Jul 31, 2016 10:09
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Jul 31, 2016 10:57
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I am considering buying a 2016 Outback. Does someone know what the height of the trunk door is when opened? My wife is pretty short and I don't know if she'll be able to reach the top. I know if we go for the powered rear door option I can customize the height but we'll probably just get the vanilla one. I also saw some discussion earlier in this thread about negotiating for a Forrester (blown head gaskets?). Are there any tips like that for Outback negotiation? I plan on doing my research on Truecar and coming with notes on the MSRP and its relationship to what they're offering, etc. but anything else would be appreciated.
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Jul 31, 2016 23:26
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Go to cars101.com for your Subaru research needs.
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Jul 31, 2016 23:50
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Just email all the dealers in your area (100 miles or however far you're willing to drive to save a thousand dollars) and ask for their best price on the exact car you want, out the door. Do not walk in and use true car numbers to attempt to negotiate. Test drive first with the intention to not buy that day if you aren't set on a trim level.
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Aug 1, 2016 01:49
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I haven't had a problem with truecar's purchasing service, albeit through USAA; if you can find a high volume dealer through the service, it shouldn't be hard to get near or below invoice, this process was pretty effortless for me as of ~4 weeks ago when purchasing another vehicle -- just use a google voice number and an alternate email address, or get ready for the high volume of pestering.
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Aug 1, 2016 04:28
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All I'm saying is that when I purchased a 2016 Outback the best Truecar price was over $2000 higher than the price I paid. YMMV
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Aug 1, 2016 04:51
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2004 WRX wagon: with sudden acceleration or deceleration, the car starts bucking repeatedly. Not just the standard engine brake decel, but dropping the throttle causes the car to buck 3-4 times rather than the one time I'm used to from all my other manual cars. Engine/tranny mount issue, or likely something else?
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Aug 2, 2016 18:39
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Probably the engine/trans mounts. If you're on the originals they are beyond trashed anyway. I replaced mine with group N parts and it fixed that same issue.
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Aug 2, 2016 19:17
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Nur_Neerg posted:2004 WRX wagon: with sudden acceleration or deceleration, the car starts bucking repeatedly. Not just the standard engine brake decel, but dropping the throttle causes the car to buck 3-4 times rather than the one time I'm used to from all my other manual cars. Engine/tranny mount issue, or likely something else? It's the dogbone mount. Even if they look alright the bushing can be hogged out. Mine spun freely inside the mount. If the dogbone mount is that bad the lower mounts will also be bad.
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Aug 2, 2016 19:33
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Not sure what the problem is but I'll recommend the group N mounts anyways. Motor+trans+crossmember bushings did a lot to tighten up the drivetrain with negligible NVH increase.
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Aug 2, 2016 19:34
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It's a slow speed thing that seems drivetrain related, not like the engine is missing/stumbling, right? If the mounts are original, then yeah you might as well replace them. The motor mounts are a bit of a hassle but everything else is easy enough. The group n parts aren't much more than stock, and then there are a few other little aftermarket things you could put in while you're at it like shifter bushing if you wanted.
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Aug 2, 2016 19:44
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jamal posted:It's a slow speed thing that seems drivetrain related, not like the engine is missing/stumbling, right? Yeah, sounds like mounts to me. I've got a linkage and shifter bushings sitting around I need to install still, figured I'd probably add the group-n engine and tranny mounts to the pile in hopes of clearing it all out at once. Definitely not an engine issue, just feels like the drivetrain has too much play in it. Dogbone=pitch stop? Also could you price out the engine+tranny mounts+pitch stop for me if so? Doubt I'll be able to order it immediately, but I want to get it taken care of when I have the time.
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Aug 2, 2016 21:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's the dogbone mount. Even if they look alright the bushing can be hogged out. Also check the control arm bushings. I replaced my engine/trans mounts to try to fix this on a Legacy and got nowhere. After replacing strut mounts along with a strut job, I'm down to the suspension bushings as the only likely place where that much slop could be happening.
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Aug 2, 2016 21:25
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Hi folks! Long time reader and flannel fan, also Ausgoon here. I'm looking at getting a cheapish second hand car to see out the remaining 4 years of a Bad Life Choices personal loan. I'll need this car to survive for that long without costing me an engine, and I've narrowed it down to a GD - either: - 05-06 Impreza 2.0R or RS with sub-180,000km or - 04ish WRX with 200,000+ on the clock. Given that WRX KMs are probably a lot harder on the car, I think i'd be better off waiting until I can afford a mint one, so I believe I'm going to go with the NA. The 2.0R with variable cam timing seems to make decent power (118kw, vs the 92kw GX). So my question to you all is, what should I look out for in one of these? I assume most of you drive turbo boxers, so knowledge of the NA motors might be sparse, but is there anything I should avoid?
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Aug 3, 2016 08:35
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Most dudes here have actually owned NA cars and many consider them just as much fun, if not more. I wouldn't be buying a wrx with that much mileage on the clock if you don't want to pay for things. Even my 05 wrx that was owned by a middle aged lady for 9 years before me, still has had issues. Like nothing requiring new parts (apart from the clutch), just stuff that breaks when these cars get this old with that many kms. At that km range, you are going to be in need of a timing belt too. The 2.0 NA engines are OK provided they have been looked after. You wouldn't praise them, they are just perfectly fine engines that do exactly what they need to. Check for oil around the heads, check for signs of leaking coolant. If you look at a 2.5L then make sure its had the head gaskets replaced.
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Aug 3, 2016 09:01
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cool, thanks! Yeah I read the thing about the MLS head gaskets in the OP. I guess the big question is whether to shoot for an 04-05 2.5RS (all seem to be SOHC, 112kw@5600 and 228nm@3600) or the later model 2.0R (DOHC, VVT, 118kw@6500 AND 185nm@3200). The latter seems to have more power and would be better on fuel I assume, and I really don't mind revving the tits off an engine to make it go - but the 2.5 looks like it'd pull harder. I'm probably just splitting hairs at this point, but I don't really know much about these cars other than that I like em'.
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Aug 3, 2016 11:57
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So am I right in thinking the enigne, driveline and subframes of a 05 Forester XT will go into a 99 Forester? I seem to recall that a GC8 can get converted to 06 STI, so ....... Yeah this might turn into a bad good idea if the frames drop in.
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Aug 3, 2016 12:33
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Don Dongington posted:cool, thanks! Avoid the 2.0R, the SOHC was a much, much better engine. DOCH non turbo engines are stuck with air pump and valves which are likely to expensively fail and they also have an untunable ECU which you'll have to get reset every few months to get rid of the flat spot they develop.
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Aug 3, 2016 14:19
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