|
wormil posted:Dewalt makes disposable blades and excellent woodworking blades. The latter are definitely worth sharpening. Either way if you have a spare toothbrush and some degreaser you can remove the pitch in a minute or two and it will probably cut almost like new. Rinse with water to remove any leftover degreaser. I cleaned off the teeth with turps like the manual I found online says to, we'll see how it cuts. There's like 2 chipped teeth though. There's like a $24 pack of 3 blades at bunnings, 20T 40T 60T. I'll probably get that. Next question is do I REALLY need an arc welder? I don't know how to weld but I'd love to learn.
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 02:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 07:01 |
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Good tip. I also learned about using oven cleaner to do that. The HQX citrus degreaser I use is really fast but eats paint and coatings if left on for more than a minute or two. Been a long time since I used oven cleaner but I remember strong fumes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 03:06
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:I cleaned off the teeth with turps like the manual I found online says to, we'll see how it cuts. There's like 2 chipped teeth though. Craftright is bunnings home brand crap that I try to steer clear of. I havent used their saw blades, so cant comment there, but i picked up a set of https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-32-piece-screwdriver-bit-set_p6320455 and have never had bits fail so quickly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 04:03
|
|
|
Raymn posted:I bought a house and I need some power tools. I like to think I'll do a bunch of poo poo around the house but its hard to say whether thats going to be the case so I'm kind of leery about investing too much. Right now I'm trying to decide if I should go with 12v or 18v. I would assume if I end up not doing as much as I'm thinking 12v will be better due to cheaper/smaller and 18v would be better if I do end up doing more plus it'll be better to have the beefier line if I end up investing in more tools from the system beyond a drill. Is that an accurate line of thinking? Next, are there certain 12v systems that are preferable that aren't necessarily better to look into if I go with 18v? Any opinions on http://thesweethome.com/reviews/the-best-drill-for-common-household-projects/ since they mostly look at 12v drills? I'm also not adverse to trolling the pawn shops looking for used older but still reliable drills even though I'd likely need to pick up a bettery/charger for it. Any suggestions would be great! I might be overthinking this since generally it seems like Milwaukee/DeWalt/Makita are probably fairly similar and come down to how much I want to spend. If you're interested, there's about 118 pages worth of cordless tool chat earlier in this thread  Nah, only thing I'd add is that 12v is probably adequate for most homeowner type stuff, but really, when's the last time you bought a tool that was just ~adequate~. Go 18v or go home. You've got a much bigger selection of tools, bigger and better batteries, and the size/weight difference ain't all that much, especially with the new brushless stuff. I'd spend a couple hundred and get a 5-6 tool set, with a cordless circular saw, sawzall, impact driver, drill, and build out from there. Makita has the biggest selection, though Milwaukee (which is now wholly Chinese owned) is catching up, and Dewalt is also pretty good, though they're less focused on random stuff like grass trimmers. Ryobi is adequate for most things, and the most affordable. Bosch has better selection and market share in Europe, it's not very competitive in the states. I will say, I've been nothing but impressed with all the Makita poo poo I've bought over the last couple of years. The impact wrench zips off axle nuts without a hiccup, the circular saw is freaking awesome for everything from sheet goods to old growth hardwood in my attic, the oscillating multi tool absolutely chews through plaster, lath, and studs no problem, I use the battery led workshop floodlight like every other day for instant portable daylight, the impact driver is hands down my favorite tool ever made. I use the drill with 4" hole saws and footlong 1" wood augers without even a slowdown, and I've abused the sawzall in ways that can only be described as criminal. I can't even tell you how many sawzall bits I've accidentally bent at 90° angles mid cut, and that thing just keeps on trucking like nobody's business. The angle grinder is my only disappointment, because I don't have any 5 amp hour batteries, so the grinder didn't last as long, but I've never run out on a project with twp 3 amp hour batteries in my arsenal. Good stuff, really good stuff
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 04:39
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:Next question is do I REALLY need an arc welder? I don't know how to weld but I'd love to learn. There are at least four different machines that qualify as an "arc welder", and several different techniques to learn depending on the material, the type of weld, and the machine you're using. What kind of stuff do you want to weld? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jul 28, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 04:45
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:There are at least four different machines that qualify as an "arc welder", and several different techniques to learn depending on the material, the type of weld, and the machine you're using. What kind of stuff do you want to weld? I think the kind of machine I was looking at is Shielded metal arc welding. I really don't know what I'm going to weld, probably steel? I was thinking about building a drying rack for my hockey gear.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 05:16
|
|
|
SMAW ("stick welding") will work for steel, yep. It's cheap and easy to learn, but can be sort of imprecise and messy. The most common places you'll see that technique used are heavy machinery (e.g. farm equipment repair) and structural things like girders and pipes. However, if you're trying to build a rack, you probably want to look for something with more precision and less mess than stick welding. Depending on your interest level, you can also look at Flux-core (FCAW) -- more precise than stick, still easy to use, cheap machines, steel only MIG welding (GMAW) -- cleaner than flux-core, requires gas and some training, moderately priced machines, can do aluminum as well with the proper accessories TIG welding (GTAW) -- the cleanest and most precise method available, can weld any metal with the right machine, requires gas and other supplies and a significant amount of training If you just want to fart around and make something without really being concerned with the outcome, a cheap stick buzzbox will do fine. If you want to learn to weld and build a nice-looking rack, I'd go to an inexpensive MIG instead.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 06:13
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:SMAW ("stick welding") will work for steel, yep. It's cheap and easy to learn, but can be sort of imprecise and messy. The most common places you'll see that technique used are heavy machinery (e.g. farm equipment repair) and structural things like girders and pipes. The cheapest MIG welders are "gasless", I'm assuming those are actually some sort of flux-core? They're also almost 4 times the cost of a simple SMAW welder. A proper MIG one appears to be another $50 on top of that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 09:30
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:The cheapest MIG welders are "gasless", I'm assuming those are actually some sort of flux-core? Yes, those are FCAW. A lot of the units can be upgraded to gas welding with a kit that consists of a few pieces (more or less depending on what the base welder already has). My go-to for sticking steel small bits of steel together is FCAW. It's cheap and it works, but it's a bit dirty. You would likely be fine starting out this way. GMAW/MIG is definitely a step up though when you're welding inside. Outside the gas is easily blown away with wind and FCAW really comes into its own. It's also nice to have a 120v totally portable box that you don't need to drag a tank around with, which is exactly what my old FCAW box is. It has come in handy so many times for "can you come over and help me weld <difficult to move object>".
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 15:46
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:I will say, I've been nothing but impressed with all the Makita poo poo I've bought over the last couple of years. The impact wrench zips off axle nuts without a hiccup, the circular saw is freaking awesome for everything from sheet goods to old growth hardwood in my attic, the oscillating multi tool absolutely chews through plaster, lath, and studs no problem, I use the battery led workshop floodlight like every other day for instant portable daylight, the impact driver is hands down my favorite tool ever made. I use the drill with 4" hole saws and footlong 1" wood augers without even a slowdown, and I've abused the sawzall in ways that can only be described as criminal. I can't even tell you how many sawzall bits I've accidentally bent at 90° angles mid cut, and that thing just keeps on trucking like nobody's business. The angle grinder is my only disappointment, because I don't have any 5 amp hour batteries, so the grinder didn't last as long, but I've never run out on a project with twp 3 amp hour batteries in my arsenal. Good stuff, really good stuff I don't have nearly as much experience with as wide a variety of tools, but I agree. I used to do summer work for my uncle (private contractor), and he had a mix of DeWalt and Milwaukee. My personal stuff is Makita and so far I prefer Makita, though to be fair when I worked for him it was like 10 years ago so it's not a fair comparison. The only downside (for me) is that Lowe's doesn't stock Makita, and both of the Lowe's near me are closer to my home AND office than the one Home Depot.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 17:33
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:If you're interested, there's about 118 pages worth of cordless tool chat earlier in this thread I swear I looked a few pages back! I realize that was probably the most generic tool suggestion request ever but really my biggest concern was 12v vs 18v even though I never really hear people suggesting 12v and its mostly brushless vs brushed chat elsewhere. Thanks for the suggestion to think about a larger set instead of just a drill/impact driver.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 19:28
|
|
|
It depends also on what you are planning to do, but for weekend warriorish stuff Milwaukee's 12V FUEL (brushless) stuff is pretty good on power and run time. I have the 12V FUEL impact and 1/2" FUEL drill, and they are pretty powerful and run for days. Ive done a couple full-day projects (like a playground with shitloads of screws for the planking and roof) on a couple battery charges each, if memory serves. I have some 18V stuff but it's the recip saw and soon-to-be circular saw. As I understand it, stuff like that really needs the high amp-hour batteries. Never used the 12V hackzall or whatever but it seemed like it would be a problem for any actual extended use, and so far it's been validated by how much I run the battery down with the 18V sawzall over some projects. This probably doesn't help too much, but I guess I'd sum it up as: It's really nice to pull out small, light tools and still have them be functional, which I've found the 12V brushless stuff to be, but for tools that are going to do a lot of work (high power, run time, or both), you will probably be better served with 18V. That being said, I will probably eventually get the 18V impact driver, but I won't have any buyers remorse about getting the 12V FUEL one. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Aug 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 21:36
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:The cheapest MIG welders are "gasless", I'm assuming those are actually some sort of flux-core? They're also almost 4 times the cost of a simple SMAW welder. A proper MIG one appears to be another $50 on top of that. Yeah, as Motronic said, a "gasless MIG" is a flux-core welder. The reason a SMAW welder is so cheap is that it's literally just a big transformer in a box. And you don't even need that to do stick welding -- two fully charged car batteries in series and an electrode holder will do a fine job. All of the magic is in the electrodes. With the right electrode, you can weld almost any metal, but it takes some practice to get right (starting and stopping the arc can be challenging), and it's a big mess. Lots of smoke, and the weld comes out covered in black crusty slag that you need to chip off with a hammer. Basically, stick welding is cheap and easy for structural things but not great for anything cosmetic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 05:59
|
|
|
I'm a huge fan of my M12 stuff. I wouldn't replace any of my M12 tools except to upgrade to a FUEL version. They are much lighter and smaller than 18v tools, which makes them a lot more convenient for random small tasks; they've had enough power for every project I've done (with one exception), and even with the absolute heaviest usage I could recharge the batteries as fast as I drained them. That one exception is the hackzall. Despite the apparent similarity, it is not a low powered sawzall alternative. The set of things it is useful for is significantly different than a sawzall; it's good for many things a sawzall is not and it is very bad at many things a sawzall does well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 17:14
|
|
|
What difference are the FUEL versions?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 17:20
|
|
|
I bought this since it seemed like a good deal http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-2-Piece-XT211/205602558 and a good place to start. If it immediately seems like its going to be overkill I'll just return it and look into 12v stuff. Thanks for the advice!
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 17:24
|
|
|
Raymn posted:I bought this since it seemed like a good deal http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-2-Piece-XT211/205602558 and a good place to start. If it immediately seems like its going to be overkill I'll just return it and look into 12v stuff. Thanks for the advice! That looks like the exact same kit I started with, and it's treated me well for over two years at this point.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 17:52
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:I'm a huge fan of my M12 stuff. I wouldn't replace any of my M12 tools except to upgrade to a FUEL version. They are much lighter and smaller than 18v tools, which makes them a lot more convenient for random small tasks; they've had enough power for every project I've done (with one exception), and even with the absolute heaviest usage I could recharge the batteries as fast as I drained them. Cakefool posted:What difference are the FUEL versions? Raymn posted:I bought this since it seemed like a good deal http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-2-Piece-XT211/205602558 and a good place to start. If it immediately seems like its going to be overkill I'll just return it and look into 12v stuff. Thanks for the advice! You've done well with that as a start. The 3Ah batteries are fine, and should power those tools for a long time. If you ever upgrade or find yourself needing to constantly swap/charge, then go 5Ah. Having a third battery is really useful because I almost always use both the drill and impact driver at the same time (drill hole, drive in fastener, repeat).
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 19:25
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:The Hackzall is definitely not a sawzall replacement, but man is it handy for cutting pipes under cabinets, or trimming stuff in tight locations. It certainly doesn't have the grunt or throw to handle demo, but that's what the big saws are for. Yeah, I like it well enough (although I have some trouble with it binding and just shaking what I'm trying to cut; I assume there's something off with my technique). But I tried to use it for a bit of light demo once and was not a happy camper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 23:10
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:I'm a huge fan of my M12 stuff. I wouldn't replace any of my M12 tools except to upgrade to a FUEL version. They are much lighter and smaller than 18v tools, which makes them a lot more convenient for random small tasks; they've had enough power for every project I've done (with one exception), and even with the absolute heaviest usage I could recharge the batteries as fast as I drained them. You'll be happy to hear there's new M12 3.0 and 6.0 Ah packs coming http://toolguyd.com/milwaukee-m12-3ah-6ah-battery-packs/
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 02:47
|
|
|
Raymn posted:I bought this since it seemed like a good deal http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-2-Piece-XT211/205602558 and a good place to start. If it immediately seems like its going to be overkill I'll just return it and look into 12v stuff. Thanks for the advice! I see that you have made an excellent life choice! Those three amp hour batteries are plenty, unless you're using an angle grinder for more than a few cuts. It seems redundant to have a drill and impact driver, but I seriously get about equal use from both, especially as you need the drill for stuff like hole saws and kreg jig stuff, and the impact driver is just tits to use anywhere else Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Jul 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 03:38
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:I see that you have made an excellent life choice! Those three amp hour batteries are plenty, unless you're using an angle grinder for more than a few cuts. It seems redundant to have a drill and impact driver, but I seriously get about equal use from both, especially as you need the drill for stuff like hole saws and kreg big stuff, and the impact driver is just tits to use anywhere else Plus there's no luxury like having the drill to do pilot holes and then grab the impact driver to buzz poo poo in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 04:10
|
|
|
Dust extraction! I have an old triton workbench with the bits to make it a tablesaw or router table, but they looooooong pre-date the advent of built-in dust collection/extraction, as do the powertools I have to go with them. Has anyone had any luck rigging up their own dust extraction mounts? I tried just clamping the hose to be next to the router bit and saw blade but that got maybe less than 20% of the dust generated. I was going to try using like a cut-up milk jug as some sort of shroud to catch most of the dust but I have a feeling it might end badly when wood chips start punching holes in the plastic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 04:37
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:Yeah, I like it well enough (although I have some trouble with it binding and just shaking what I'm trying to cut; I assume there's something off with my technique). But I tried to use it for a bit of light demo once and was not a happy camper. Keep the shoe actively pushed against whatever you're cutting. If what you're cutting has no resistance to being pushed, steadily pull it towards you with the other hand. For example: tree limb at the trunk vs. tree limb 20 feet out, or cutting plywood attached to a wall vs. someone holding it. The Hackzall is nice to keep in a bag with a pair of batteries and some gloves for downed trees blocking the (only) road home, we've had a lot the last few months. I keep a garbage bag too to wrap it up in case it's still raining. The rest of the time it's fantastic for everyday "man I wish this thing was two smaller things" moments during projects. It's not hard to cut a straight line with and it's so goddamned portable.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 19:08
|
|
|
A friend has a healthy Etsy shop and is looking into expanding their production into a laser cutter for wood, acrylic and maybe etching metal. Is there a go-to brand or model for this stuff that all the maker spaces use?
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2016 01:14
|
|
|
uwaeve posted:Plus there's no luxury like having the drill to do pilot holes and then grab the impact driver to buzz poo poo in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2016 01:22
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:A friend has a healthy Etsy shop and is looking into expanding their production into a laser cutter for wood, acrylic and maybe etching metal. Is there a go-to brand or model for this stuff that all the maker spaces use? Most maker spaces go for biggest they can afford. Epilog is the Cadillac of laser cutters. It's made in Colorado instead of China. I can attest their support is top notch. Etching metal requires a fibermark laser which is more expensive and a different animal than normal co2 lasers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2016 06:04
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:The Hackzall is nice to keep in a bag with a pair of batteries and some gloves for downed trees blocking the (only) road home, we've had a lot the last few months. I keep a garbage bag too to wrap it up in case it's still raining.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2016 07:48
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:A friend has a healthy Etsy shop and is looking into expanding their production into a laser cutter for wood, acrylic and maybe etching metal. Is there a go-to brand or model for this stuff that all the maker spaces use? If you're in the UK go to JustAddSharks.co.uk they rule.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2016 09:39
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:If there is space in my vehicle when packing for camping trips, I like to throw the cordless recip saw, a fresh pruning blade and 2 fat batteries in the car. I did this a couple weeks ago and arrived late at a state campground with no firewood for sale after 8pm. While everyone foraged the treeline for sticks, I walked into the forest and zipped up every felled dry tree under 5" in diameter and had enough firewood for 2 nights before my batteries died. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2016 14:47
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:If there is space in my vehicle when packing for camping trips, I like to throw the cordless recip saw, a fresh pruning blade and 2 fat batteries in the car. I did this a couple weeks ago and arrived late at a state campground with no firewood for sale after 8pm. While everyone foraged the treeline for sticks, I walked into the forest and zipped up every felled dry tree under 5" in diameter and had enough firewood for 2 nights before my batteries died. My smokin' diesel F-350 with bars and pan savers can push 12 year old bristlecone pines over, easy. They burn like black powder too! Oh wait: https://lnt.org/learn/principle-4
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 06:19
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:A friend has a healthy Etsy shop and is looking into expanding their production into a laser cutter for wood, acrylic and maybe etching metal. Is there a go-to brand or model for this stuff that all the maker spaces use? Epilog
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 09:41
|
|
|
Otteration posted:My smokin' diesel F-350 with bars and pan savers can push 12 year old bristlecone pines over, easy. Yeah, folks taking down standing trees in a public park is pretty obnoxious. On the overlap of camping and tools, if you tend to use totes to transport camping gear, check out the Craftsman (originally Waterloo and Klein) "Sit/Stand/Tote" line of toolboxes. Having shredded rubbermaid bins after a year of hard use, I stumbled on this line of durable jobsite toolboxes with the storage capacity of a tote. Most models have at least one layer of shelving trays, and some have some beefy wheels if your walk into your campsite is long. Fake edit: here is a crappy auction site pic of my model filled with non-camping gear. Nice and spacious and easy to organize. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2016 14:36
|
|
|
I'm about to buy my first circular saw, and need a quick sanity check. I've bought into the Milwaukee M18 line, so I'll be choosing between the 6.5" 2730 and 7.25" 2731. I understand the 6.5" has the blade on the left, whereas the 7.25" has the blade on the right, and that blade availability may be better with the 7.25". I'm not sure to what extent 6.5" availability has caught up, because a lot of forum posts citing that as a concern were 5-10 years old. I don't really have a pre-existing bias on blade side, and will probably be happy with either. The 6.5" one is 10% lighter (saw only) and $20 cheaper, with a slightly diminished depth of cut, as is expected. My questions are: 1. Is it really personal preference regarding blade side? I've seen arguments about visibility of the sight line, safety (can't remember exactly the argument here), etc. For someone who hasn't really used one before, I assume I'll pick what I pick and just use it, unless people tend to have a serious boner for left-handed blades and the visibility of the line. 2. Both have a slot and thumbscrew for a rip fence, but a quick search doesn't turn up official Milwaukee rip fences for these saws (other models are called out). I assumed there was some standard size and a third-party one could be used, but I see a lot of Amazon reviews about how they are either too loose or too tight in the slot of various saws. Given that I don't have (and am not planning to get) a table saw, are rip fences a useful thing to worry about, or are they flexy, stamped-steel pieces of poo poo that are more trouble than they're worth? I have seen a bunch of stuff about how to rip using your finger on the shoe, how to DIY your own fences, clamping straightedges, etc, so it seems like there are other options. I just don't know if it's one of those things that people use often or just kind of a joke accessory. Seems like something on a single rod is going to be flexing and binding and whatever. I guess this is somewhat off-topic, because it doesn't really help me decide between the two saws I'm looking at. 3. Is the depth of cut specified to the absolute bottom of the blade (tangent line parallel to the shoe), or is it the recommended workpiece thickness (allowing some of the blade to stick through to get some nominal angle of the blade at the bottom of the workpiece)? The only reason I ask is it looks like the cut depth at a 45 degree bevel is 1.625" vs 1.8125". I guess my concern is if this is to the bottom of the blade, and you do want some nominal angle on the bottom surface, does that mean the 6.5" one is unsuitable for a 45 degree bevel on 2x lumber? I guess I'm wondering if there's any reason not to get the 7.25", if there are any differences I'm missing. Upcoming projects are going to be french cleat storage for the garage (probably something like this) and resurfacing a deck and replacing railings and railing posts. I'll have access to a miter saw and probably a lovely table saw for both, so it's not like I'm expecting to have to use the circular for everything, but I'm thinking it's about time to add it to the toolbox. I also understand a corded one will be better for power and runtime, but I'm mostly going to be weekend warrioring it, and the cordless (especially with the runtime/power advertised with the brushless motor) is probably going to serve me well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 01:29
|
|
|
^^ Get the smaller 6.5" for using with the battery, and down the line a larger corded model. The kerf on the 6.5" blade is thinner, which is nice, and I've yet to run out of battery ripping down sheet goods with my Makita cordless saw. Pair it with the Kreg Jig Rip Cut track saw guide, and be amazed every time. Now stuff like cutting masonry/metal or even different tooth count blades are still largely the domain of the larger saws, but 75% of homeowner woodworking protects can be done with the 6.5". The other 21% I use my sliding miter saw, 3% table saw, and the last percent my larger corded saw, and my last use there was for cutting cement fiber siding with a masonry blade If you're bringing a Rubbermaid container, that ain't camping
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 12:23
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:and my last use there was for cutting cement fiber siding with a masonry blade Gonna have to recommend you use fiber cement shears for this job, not a masonry blade. Cleanup is just so much faster when you aren't coating everything within 5 meters with cement dust.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 15:26
|
|
|
Do yourself a favor and pickup a tracksaw, the big brands can be pricey but there are good inexpensive versions also (such as Scheppach). I've had one for maybe a 2-3 years and it's just kind of occurring to me how often i use that thing. From ripping plywood, to putting a bevel on a door, cutting wide widths that your sliding miter doesn't have enough bite for... seriously, it's worth every penny. I just hung 12 solid doors in my house, and used the tracksaw to make every cut (including putting the bevel on the strike and butt sides) so I've got a little tracksaw boner going right now. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 16:39
|
|
|
If you're in Europe, I suggest you do your tool shopping in the UK, while their currency is in the dumpster. Even with freight to mainland EU it is cheaper for me than buying in country. I have Makita's newer brushless recip saw incoming, which isn't even available locally yet! And also a 5amp battery. Oooh the tension of waiting. Planning to replace a complete window installation this coming weekend - it will be handy there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 23:00
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:Do yourself a favor and pickup a tracksaw, the big brands can be pricey but there are good inexpensive versions also (such as Scheppach). I've had one for maybe a 2-3 years and it's just kind of occurring to me how often i use that thing. From ripping plywood, to putting a bevel on a door, cutting wide widths that your sliding miter doesn't have enough bite for... seriously, it's worth every penny. Track saws seem awesome, I will do some more research. Are you implying that, as someone with zero saws, I should get a track saw before a circular? Not challenging you, just trying to understand. Seems like I could use it as a circular, but it needs to be plunged for every cut, and do I wind up loving up the shoe if I use it without the track regularly? edit: wait were you even responding to me?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2016 23:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 07:01 |
|
|
A track saw is a circular saw. If you're in the market for a corded circular saw, I would 100% recommend getting the Makita track saw and skipping the ordinary circular saw.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2016 01:04
|
|