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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
more funds isnt better and your ERs are pretty tolerable even with your admin fees

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Tyro
Nov 10, 2009
Yeah those fees are a lot better than my 457b was. Even with the 8 bps a quarter, a few of those options are decently priced.

Leon Trotsky 2012
Aug 27, 2009

YOU CAN TRUST ME!*


*Israeli Government-affiliated poster

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

more funds isnt better and your ERs are pretty tolerable even with your admin fees

Yeah, I know that more funds isn't necessarily better, but I currently have access to the same Vanguard Large Cap fund, a Fidelity Mid Cap fund that is slightly cheaper, and a small cap fund that is 2/3 the ER of the one being offered. Also, no admin fees.

Feels like a small downgrade for no benefit to the employees, even though the entire transition is supposedly to save employees money on fees.

Should I just be doing some combo of Large / Mid / Intl? 60/25/15 or something like that? I have a Vanguard Target fund for 100% of my Roth IRA.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:

Yeah, I know that more funds isn't necessarily better, but I currently have access to the same Vanguard Large Cap fund, a Fidelity Mid Cap fund that is slightly cheaper, and a small cap fund that is 2/3 the ER of the one being offered. Also, no admin fees.

Feels like a small downgrade for no benefit to the employees, even though the entire transition is supposedly to save employees money on fees.

Should I just be doing some combo of Large / Mid / Intl? 60/25/15 or something like that? I have a Vanguard Target fund for 100% of my Roth IRA.

"Extended Market" is all the funds that ARE in the Total Stock Market fund and NOT in the S&P 500 Index fund. It's not technically a midcap fund. Currently, an 80/20 ratio of SP500/Extended Market is about the same as holding Total Stock Market. Whatever you've allocated to domestic stocks, I recommend that 80/20 ratio.

You've got a great bond fund available to you. Whatever your personal bond allocation is, the Vanguard Intermediate Fund is a good choice. Anyone who tells you that ~Now is a bad time to hold bonds~ has a crystal ball that you should ask to borrow.

I personally hold 15% bonds because it's smack dab in the middle of two Common Knowledge pieces of advice - Hold 0% bonds, and hold your age in bonds (30% in my case).

For international stocks, that's as personal an issue as stock vs bond. Many experts claim that your stocks should be NO MORE than 20% international. Other experts say you should have AT LEAST 20% international. I decided to go with 20% international for exactly that reason!

Oh and "even though the entire transition is supposedly to save employees money on fees" - This is your employer saying "if we didn't do this, we would have started charging you a big fee. You're welcome".

Xguard86
Nov 22, 2004

"You don't understand his pain. Everywhere he goes he sees women working, wearing pants, speaking in gatherings, voting. Surely they will burn in the white hot flames of Hell"
I have a Roth and standard 401k ira Question. This might be a "consult a professional" question but I want to see if it's more simple than I realize.

My workplace just started offering a Roth 401k to go with our standard 401k. How should I be allocating my contribution between the two?

I also have a rollover IRA with vanguard from previous jobs and my Roth IRA. I understand i can do a conversion from traditional to Roth with a tax hit as it's considered income. What is the smart play here?

I'm early 30s late twenties working white collar so I'm more likely to be in a hire tax bracket when i retire if life goes to plan.

I can provide % and dollar details if it makes a difference.

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.
Some people go with 50/50 Traditional/Roth just to have a balance in retirement, but I'll just be going with 100% Roth unless I become ineligible. If this is the least you will ever make, now is the time to convert those old Traditional IRAs to Roth.

In your situation, I would:

- First contribute to the Roth 401k up to the maximum company match, if any. (their match by law has to be Traditional though)
- Then max your Roth IRA
- Max HSA contributions, if eligible
- Rest in Roth 401k until you max that space.

If you somehow manage to put all that away, start a taxable account, but that is 18,500 for 401k, 5500 for IRA, and 3350 for HSA. $27,350 is a lot

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!
The 401k limit is $18,000 in 2016.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
turbohumblebrag: I've moved out of the Roth eligible income bracket and really can't be bothered to backdoor so that may also be a consideration for you if you plan to make more money at your white collar job. I wish I pushed a bit more money in to the Roth when I was eligible.

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

turbohumblebrag: I've moved out of the Roth eligible income bracket and really can't be bothered to backdoor so that may also be a consideration for you if you plan to make more money at your white collar job. I wish I pushed a bit more money in to the Roth when I was eligible.

- :wotwot:



Jealous, is all

asur
Dec 28, 2012

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

turbohumblebrag: I've moved out of the Roth eligible income bracket and really can't be bothered to backdoor so that may also be a consideration for you if you plan to make more money at your white collar job. I wish I pushed a bit more money in to the Roth when I was eligible.

You can't be bothered to take 10 minutes a year to save 5k in a tax sheltered account?

Leon: I would just approximate the Vangaurd target fund that you are holding in your Roth in your 401k as that's the simplest option. The other option is to look the funds in your Roth versus your 401k and see if you can get a lower overall expense ratio.

Rurutia
Jun 11, 2009
Backdoor is a huge pain in the rear end to set up if you have actual trad ira savings.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Xguard86 posted:

I'm early 30s late twenties working white collar so I'm more likely to be in a hire tax bracket when i retire if life goes to plan.

Can someone explain the reasoning here to me? I've never understood it. I get the expectation that you'd be in a higher tax bracket *immediately before* retiring. But after retiring? Don't follow. While you're working and saving for retirement, your taxable income should be roughly equal to your expenses plus your taxable savings. After retirement, it should be roughly equal to your expenses minus your tax free savings disbursements, right? Why the confidence that the latter would be higher than the former?

In my mind, if you're a highish earner now, the reason to go Roth is not a matter of future tax bracket, but simply that if you would max out traditional, then Roth has an effectively higher limit.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

If you're a highish earner now then you don't even qualify for the tax deduction for a Trad IRA since the phaseout starts at like only 65k (individual). The choice of Roth IRA is already effectively made for you.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
But Roth 401k is an option no matter what your income.

I'm with you Steve French, I go trad as I expect to make less in retirement following the same logic you outlined.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Guinness posted:

If you're a highish earner now then you don't even qualify for the tax deduction for a Trad IRA since the phaseout starts at like only 65k (individual). The choice of Roth IRA is already effectively made for you.

Not necessarily. Yes, if you are not eligible for a tax deduction on your traditional IRA contributions, the choice is obvious, but there are plenty of circumstances where Roth vs traditional *is* a non trivial decision.

For one, the trad IRA limit is only as low as ~65k if you have a retirement plan provided by your employer.

For two, the question also applies to traditional vs Roth 401k, where that income limit does not exist. And, in fact, was the specific case that I was responding to.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
Traditional 401k/Roth IRA does a good job of hedging the tax question, anyway.

It's too hard to predict your tax bracket in 30 years. The definition of taxable income could change, brackets and rates will probably change, and of course who knows what kind of passive income you'll even have!

monster on a stick
Apr 29, 2013

Rurutia posted:

Backdoor is a huge pain in the rear end to set up if you have actual trad ira savings.

Not if your 401k plan accepts rollovers (and you have a good 401k plan.)

ShadowHawk
Jun 25, 2000

CERTIFIED PRE OWNED TESLA OWNER

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Traditional 401k/Roth IRA does a good job of hedging the tax question, anyway.
Note that if you have a Roth 401k the employer matching part will still be traditional so you get a bit of this implicitly.

Xguard86
Nov 22, 2004

"You don't understand his pain. Everywhere he goes he sees women working, wearing pants, speaking in gatherings, voting. Surely they will burn in the white hot flames of Hell"
I am getting my full company match in the 401k with half in traditional and half in Roth. I'm also maxing my personal Roth IRA contribution.

It sounds like I'm ok with this setup? And maybe I should split my 5500 between Roth and traditional next year?

Xguard86 fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Aug 12, 2016

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Rurutia posted:

Backdoor is a huge pain in the rear end to set up if you have actual trad ira savings.

exactly

Nail Rat
Dec 29, 2000

You maniacs! You blew it up! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!!
Traditional for 401k and Roth for IRA here. I look at it as another form of diversification based on the uncertainty of future tax code.

Bhodi
Dec 9, 2007

Oh, it's just a cat.
Pillbug

Rurutia posted:

Backdoor is a huge pain in the rear end to set up if you have actual trad ira savings.
Seriously, if anyone has a way around this without job hopping to a place that allows post tax 401k i'd really like to hear it!

So annoying this issue isn't brought up in the forefront of issues when comparing trad vs ira, and i didn't read deep enough until it was too late.

Rurutia
Jun 11, 2009

monster on a stick posted:

Not if your 401k plan accepts rollovers (and you have a good 401k plan.)

I personally considered that a huge pain in the rear end to do. If your 401k doesn't accept rollovers and and isn't good, the backdoor is largely impractical. Rather than not doing it, just because you're lazy af.

pig slut lisa
Mar 5, 2012

irl is good


Nail Rat posted:

Traditional for 401k and Roth for IRA here. I look at it as another form of diversification based on the uncertainty of future tax code.

Same here

Hufflepuff or bust!
Jan 28, 2005

I should have known better.

Bhodi posted:

Seriously, if anyone has a way around this without job hopping to a place that allows post tax 401k i'd really like to hear it!

So annoying this issue isn't brought up in the forefront of issues when comparing trad vs ira, and i didn't read deep enough until it was too late.

You can check to see if your work's traditional 401k accepts "incoming" rollovers. Then you can roll your traditional IRA into your work 401k, and voila, no Traditional IRA balance. Although I think you have to do this one tax year in advance of any Roth conversions? Maybe I'm wrong about that latter part?

Prince Turveydrop
May 12, 2001

He was a veray parfit gentil knight.

kaishek posted:

You can check to see if your work's traditional 401k accepts "incoming" rollovers. Then you can roll your traditional IRA into your work 401k, and voila, no Traditional IRA balance. Although I think you have to do this one tax year in advance of any Roth conversions? Maybe I'm wrong about that latter part?

You can do it same year. I did this exact thing last year and had no problems in turbotax. Processing the incoming rollover was no big deal compared to the tax savings I will get for the next few decades provided the backside loophole is never closed.

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug
So, I opted into my company’s stock purchase program last year, and the stocks were purchased relatively recently, at a discount since I’m an employee. I was contributing 5% of my income towards the program, and then 10% towards my 401k (Vanguard Target 2045). I’m tempted to sell the stocks and then invest the money straight into my 401k, but would it be smarter of me to keep the stocks as they are? The company is a gambling establishment that’s been around for over 130 years, so I don’t necessarily think they’re going anywhere anytime soon, but I guess anything’s possible. Is it mostly just how willing I am to risk the stock value? Is it even possible to send money straight from my bank account into a 401k?

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

CodfishCartographer posted:

Is it even possible to send money straight from my bank account into a 401k?

No, contributions must be payroll deductions.

Blinky2099
May 27, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

CodfishCartographer posted:

Is it mostly just how willing I am to risk the stock value?
It's mostly how much you care about selling today at the short-term gains tax, vs holding for a year and selling at the lower tax rate. You take on added risk by holding onto the stocks for the year, but gain an expected return (because you're paying less taxes; not because you expect the stock to go up.) This is for your own personal account; I don't know the tax implications of selling in a 401k.

CodfishCartographer posted:

Is it even possible to send money straight from my bank account into a 401k?
I don't believe so. Just up your 401k contribution rate via work compensation, and then supplement your income with those ESPP shares in the mean time. That's kinda like transferring cash into your 401k.

Blinky2099 fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Aug 12, 2016

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug
^^^ That makes sense! and yeah I suppose I could mess around with contributions like that in order to balance it out, but I think I'll keep them in stocks anyways. At the very least for a year, so I get to pay less taxes on the money.

Guinness posted:

No, contributions must be payroll deductions.

Well, guess that makes my decision for me! I'll just sit on it, for a rainy day / down payment, then.

CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Aug 12, 2016

monster on a stick
Apr 29, 2013

CodfishCartographer posted:

So, I opted into my company’s stock purchase program last year, and the stocks were purchased relatively recently, at a discount since I’m an employee. I was contributing 5% of my income towards the program, and then 10% towards my 401k (Vanguard Target 2045). I’m tempted to sell the stocks and then invest the money straight into my 401k, but would it be smarter of me to keep the stocks as they are? The company is a gambling establishment that’s been around for over 130 years, so I don’t necessarily think they’re going anywhere anytime soon, but I guess anything’s possible. Is it mostly just how willing I am to risk the stock value? Is it even possible to send money straight from my bank account into a 401k?

Are you getting stock at a discount? You can always sell it as soon as it vests.

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug

monster on a stick posted:

Are you getting stock at a discount? You can always sell it as soon as it vests.

I am getting the stock at a discount (85%), which is why I was considering selling it now since it just got purchased and thus would be the most immediate profit. And pardon my ignorance but when is a cost qualified as being vested?

Blinky2099
May 27, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

monster on a stick posted:

Are you getting stock at a discount? You can always sell it as soon as it vests.
That's what he's asking. "Should I sell, or should I hold." He can sell it immediately for variance reduction, but at the expense of higher taxes. Or he can wait and sell it after a year for expected return increase, but at the expense of higher variance.

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug
I wouldn't have thought of the tax difference as being that significant, but granted I don't know how waiting the year effects the taxes all that much. I currently have 15 shares, I'd be more worried about the stock dropping 10-20 dollars (it recently raised $15 over the past month or so due to some good press) losing me money than the tax reductions losing me money.

But then again, I don't really know a whole lot about stock stuff.

monster on a stick
Apr 29, 2013

CodfishCartographer posted:

I am getting the stock at a discount (85%), which is why I was considering selling it now since it just got purchased and thus would be the most immediate profit. And pardon my ignorance but when is a cost qualified as being vested?

This is a decent article that should help you calculate your true rate of return (it's probably more than 15%, since some of your money is kept only for a few days before buying stock): http://thefinancebuff.com/employee-stock-purchase-plan-espp-is.html

I think that also answers your question about qualified - you're talking about turning them into long-term gains?

monster on a stick fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Aug 12, 2016

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Short term capital gains are taxed as ordinary income, so the effective tax rate is between 10-39.6% (depends on how much money you make, etc). Long term capital gains are taxed at varying rates, but yours are likely 0% or 15%.

If you make up to $37,000, your tax rate for holding a year goes from 15% to 0% on sale of stock. If you make between $37,000 and $91,000, your effective tax rate goes from 25% to 15% on sale of stock.

Dollar changes in value are pointless without knowing percentage changes. Is dropping $10 25%? Is it 5%?

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Short term capital gains are taxed as ordinary income, so the effective tax rate is between 10-39.6% (depends on how much money you make, etc). Long term capital gains are taxed at varying rates, but yours are likely 0% or 15%.

If you make up to $37,000, your tax rate for holding a year goes from 15% to 0% on sale of stock. If you make between $37,000 and $91,000, your effective tax rate goes from 25% to 15% on sale of stock.

Dollar changes in value are pointless without knowing percentage changes. Is dropping $10 25%? Is it 5%?

Fair, I should have considered it as a percentage! The stock is at 145ish now, this time last year it was at around 130 and hovered around there until recently when it's gone up- the lowest it's gone in the past year has been 118, but it wasn't around there long. It sounds like holding onto it for the year is gunna be the best bet, as looking at the stock history it rarely has gone under 123, but then the link that monster on a stick posted seems to suggest the opposite, so WHO KNOWS.

monster on a stick posted:

This is a decent article that should help you calculate your true "discount" (it's probably more than 15%, since some of your money is kept only for a few days before buying stock): http://thefinancebuff.com/employee-stock-purchase-plan-espp-is.html

I think that also answers your question about qualified - you're talking about turning them into long-term gains?

I think I'm a little confused as to how he reaches the true value there.

quote:

On average your money is only tied up for 3 months. So, earning 17.65% risk free for tying up your money for 3 months is equivalent to earning (1 + 17.65%) ^ 4 – 1 = 91.6% a year.

How exactly does this formula apply to finding the "true" discount?

CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Aug 12, 2016

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
If you hold for a year your gains are:

Initial discount + tax discount +/- gains or losses from initial purchase price

If you sell immediately / in the short term your gains are:

Initial discount +/- gains or losses from initial purchase price + gains from alternative investments in which you place your money (opportunity cost)

If you strongly believe that the stock will lose more than your tax discount minus the opportunity cost over the year you will hold the stock, you should sell it immediately. Otherwise, with a fairly stable stock, I'd be inclined to hold. Does the stock pay dividends?

Blinky2099
May 27, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

CodfishCartographer posted:

I think I'm a little confused as to how he reaches the true value there.
He's calculating "annual return" based on when you deposit. It's kinda silly because it doesn't really apply to your question about taxes and whether you should hold or sell, but it's important to understand.

Basically, since your money is held for 6 months, but you're depositing into it during those 6 months, the total average of [length of which your money is locked up] = 3 months (since some is 6 months and some is 0 months).

Then, your return on these "average 3 months" can be multiplied by 4 to get a total annual return, i.e. 15% return over 3 months = 15*4=60% true return (before tax), which basically means ESPPs kick rear end super hard.

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CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug
^^^Ahh, okay, that does make sense. Thanks for helping spell it out for me! Since my ESPP is over a year period, instead of a 6 month one, wouldn't logically that mean that the average return is in 6 month increments instead of 3 month ones, so then it'd only be 15%*2 = 30%? still kick-rear end, but doesn't seem like the COULD BE OVER 180% like it claimed - but I guess that's why it's important for me to do my own math :v:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

If you hold for a year your gains are:

Initial discount + tax discount +/- gains or losses from initial purchase price

If you sell immediately / in the short term your gains are:

Initial discount +/- gains or losses from initial purchase price + gains from alternative investments in which you place your money (opportunity cost)

If you strongly believe that the stock will lose more than your tax discount minus the opportunity cost over the year you will hold the stock, you should sell it immediately. Otherwise, with a fairly stable stock, I'd be inclined to hold. Does the stock pay dividends?

Alright, thanks for making it clear. Sounds like the best thing for me to do is hold onto it until at least next year, then. Mostly the link above threw me for a loop, since it sounded like selling ASAP is the way to go, even if I couldn't exactly follow that logic.

CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Aug 12, 2016

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