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w00tmonger posted:You guys using an ultrasonic cleaner at all? Bought a fairly entry level one off Amazon and it's been working wonders with some diluted simple green I tried it, and while I thought it was a great thing at first, it really doesn't seem to make that much of a difference - and I was using Simple Green at full strength.
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Aug 8, 2016 18:04
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Lord Twisted posted:Cheers mate. I'll get some power spray and a toothbrush and give the big V a bath. I'm just unhappy now that I've got great results airbrushing - he's too much of an iconic model to have a second rate paint job! I believe that the Fairy recommendation is out of date, certainly the stuff I bought did nothing to paint a while ago, and I think someone said that the formula was changed. Brown Dettol is still the awful smelling answer.
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Aug 8, 2016 18:44
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Ultrasonic cleaners are best for airbrushes, right? I'm teetering towards getting one.
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Aug 8, 2016 19:27
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Lord Twisted posted:I'm UK based, any alternatives you'd recommend? Brown Dettol does the trick so long as you don't mind the smell of disinfectant:  The main thing to bear in mind is to not rinse the minis in water until they're well scrubbed and the paint is removed, as it will re-congeal the paint into a horrible mess. I've had success with it, I tend to put some in a jar with the minis, seal it and put it in the garage for a couple of days. Note it will weaken glue bonds too so some re-assembly will be required.
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Aug 8, 2016 21:43
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Quick question: what's the best glue to use for gluing cork to not-cork (plastic, resin, metal)? Maybe something like Gorilla Glue? Relatedly, does anyone have ideas for hardening the surface of the cork so that it's a bit more resilient? (Yes, I'm paranoid about my little guys.) Would the usual Glosscote/Dullcote at the end be enough?
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Aug 10, 2016 02:44
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I use cork a lot and gel super glue works well to grip it to plastic or resin. PVA is ok, but it takes longer to dry and often doesn't hold as well. I don't think you really need to reinforce the cork, but if you really wanted to, the easiest way is to mix some PVA with water (1:1) and soak your cork in it. It takes a day to dry, but will harden things up a bit. Are you worried about it crumbling away?
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Aug 10, 2016 02:49
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I've used both superglue and PVA to glue cork down, and it only ever comes off occasionally if I'm painting it and didn't use enough glue. Spray primer more or less seals it, but brushing it with watered down PVA couldn't hurt.
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Aug 10, 2016 03:32
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Cool, thanks for the advice! The watered-down PVA is a good idea. I'll probably end up using gel superglue on the smaller bits and Gorilla glue on the larger ones, just so things stay in place.
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Aug 10, 2016 04:09
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Avenging Dentist posted:Cool, thanks for the advice! The watered-down PVA is a good idea. I'll probably end up using gel superglue on the smaller bits and Gorilla glue on the larger ones, just so things stay in place. I've been using Gorilla super glue on some cork lately for KoW bases and it's tough as nails. Holds to MDF almost instantly, and I'd have to physically tear models off the cork for them to come off. Highly recommended.
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Aug 10, 2016 12:35
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Cat Face Joe posted:Which color(s) did you use to get just the iridescence? I used the green / purple / teal.
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Aug 10, 2016 17:48
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Avenging Dentist posted:Quick question: what's the best glue to use for gluing cork to not-cork (plastic, resin, metal)? Maybe something like Gorilla Glue? The Cyanoacrylate glue I use to assemble my WMH models does a good job at sticking cork to plastic. Watered down gorilla glue also works wonders in making it resilient. Typically when gluing ballast down, I put down some watered down gorilla, let it dry a bit, then put another coat on top of the ballast, that's when I coat the cork with it.
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Aug 10, 2016 17:53
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selnaric posted:I used the green / purple / teal. Great, that's the one I ordered. Did you do a full coat or just a light spray over the black?
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Aug 10, 2016 18:26
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Frobbe posted:badly lit picture of my crew progress: Crossposting from the malifaux thread. the plastic malifaux models are goddamn amazing.
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Aug 10, 2016 19:37
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My Praetor finally has a couple dudes to hang out with, in the form of a squad of Invictus Suzerains. These guys were fun to paint but looking at the photos I feel like I was a little sloppy with em. They look good on the tabletop though!       I also think the lighting might be blowing up too much on all the metallics. These guys redefine "bling"
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Aug 11, 2016 06:10
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  First chance to paint in five months! Got 6 dudes basecoated, and got the pilot base coated. I already had the armored suit that far.
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Aug 11, 2016 06:39
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That hannah is loving amazing.
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Aug 11, 2016 07:41
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Yeah this is dope as hell.
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Aug 11, 2016 15:37
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Ahhhhh! Thanks for the nice words! Coming from my miniature painting goonbros it means a lot.
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Aug 11, 2016 15:41
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That's some real nice weathering
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Aug 11, 2016 18:44
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Yours is probably the first non-limited Hannah I've liked.
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Aug 11, 2016 20:08
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ka-chunk ka-chunk. Man, Vallejo reds are nice to work with. Had a coming to christ moment using Flat Red and Ferrari red for the first time.    
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Aug 12, 2016 09:24
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A question for goons who make molds and casts stuff. How would I go about making a mold for something like this? I've read Z the IV's post on casting but I'm still fuzzy on the details. I'd like it to work in as few attempts as possible so any advice is appreciated. The figure is not quite done yet, but the basic shape is there except for the base which will just be a flat disc.    Stuff I have or am getting soon: 2 part 1:1 resin. RTV Silicone. Lots of talcum. Legos. Clay.
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Aug 12, 2016 10:31
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Electric Hobo posted:A question for goons who make molds and casts stuff. Even though it's not specifically terrain the terrain thread will probably be able to help you. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3570772
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Aug 12, 2016 14:08
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Cat Face Joe posted:Great, that's the one I ordered. Did you do a full coat or just a light spray over the black? I did a couple of coats. Being lacquer based the coats dry quickly. I air brushed outside cause that poo poo will melt your brain, and not in a good way.
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Aug 12, 2016 14:52
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Electric Hobo posted:A question for goons who make molds and casts stuff. Is the thingy going to be on that white disc?
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Aug 12, 2016 14:58
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dexefiend posted:
Nice work! What is that from?
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Aug 12, 2016 14:59
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Nice work! What is that from? Malifaux.
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Aug 12, 2016 15:08
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berzerkmonkey posted:Is the thingy going to be on that white disc? No, that's just to have a flat surface while I'm sculpting it so things get more symmetrical. I'll attach the thingy to a much smaller disc before trying to make a mold. Also, it's a 3D token for the ram clan in Blood Rage.
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Aug 12, 2016 15:16
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selnaric posted:I did a couple of coats. Being lacquer based the coats dry quickly. I air brushed outside cause that poo poo will melt your brain, and not in a good way. Awesome, thanks.
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Aug 12, 2016 15:17
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So I actually painted these guys a couple weeks ago, but only got around to taking pictures the other day. Here's the second half of my Mk IV Tactical Squad, with their Nuncio Vox I made from a Bastion bit:      
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Aug 12, 2016 18:27
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Cool and good blue mandollies.
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Aug 12, 2016 18:32
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How is that kinda gloss but not gloss color popping achieved? Is that by going over with a gloss varnish and following with a matte? EDIT: Your blue mans look fantastic.
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Aug 12, 2016 18:40
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Fyrbrand posted:Cool and good blue mandollies.  Shadin posted:How is that kinda gloss but not gloss color popping achieved? Is that by going over with a gloss varnish and following with a matte? GW's paints have a slightly satiny sheen to them without going full gloss. These guys are just hit with one coat of matte, the only gloss is under the transfers. I think some of the gloss effect might be because my lights are kinda harsh.
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Aug 12, 2016 18:44
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Yeast posted:ka-chunk ka-chunk. rad
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Aug 12, 2016 18:48
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I just dropped $215 on art supplies at an art store sale. Maybe I'll get another space marine painted on panel in class instead of painting the actual models.
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Aug 12, 2016 20:42
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Electric Hobo posted:A question for goons who make molds and casts stuff. Easy. Get a plastic cup a bit larger than your bit. Next, put some clay on the other side of this (the side with that little dent in the 3rd picture): Next, stick your bit into the cup with the clay side glued/secured to the bottom of the cup. Your bit will basically be floating at this point. Coat your bit with talcum, mix some silicone, and slowly pour it in from one side. Stick it on a vibrating washer/drier and let it set. When its dry take out the silicone from the cup (you can cut the cup if you need) and remove the clay. You should be able to wiggle out the bit through the hole. If not, use an xacto knife to cut a little line into the top of the mold to make it release easier. Once it's out you have your mold. This is called a 'sleeve' mold btw. Pretty easy and works for 90% of bits.
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Aug 12, 2016 22:37
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I'm about to start painting a whole bunch of plastic tanks (Battlefront Comets) for Flames of War purposes, but I'm not really a very good painter. I was thinking of just following this guide, but I'm not really one for being able to faff around with thinning paints and stuff for the undercoat. Are there good primer paints that can be applied by regular brushes, or is it only spraypaint/airbrush only? I think I've gotten most of the other necessities (assorted brushes both flat ones and for detail work, necessary paints for the colour scheme, etc.). I'm hoping to stop by a hobby shop tomorrow, is there anything a neophyte tank painter should keep an eye out for?
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Aug 13, 2016 00:42
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Yvonmukluk posted:I'm about to start painting a whole bunch of plastic tanks (Battlefront Comets) for Flames of War purposes, but I'm not really a very good painter. I was thinking of just following this guide, but I'm not really one for being able to faff around with thinning paints and stuff for the undercoat. Are there good primer paints that can be applied by regular brushes, or is it only spraypaint/airbrush only? Vallejo makes a very wide assortment of airbrush paints that are perfectly fine applied with a brush, but in my opinion airbrush is the better option. When I don't feel like cleaning my airbrush or I have just one mini to prime though, I will use Vallejo Surface Primer on just a regular synthetic brush.
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Aug 13, 2016 00:52
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SRM posted:
Cool, thanks. I just started painting with GW paints but haven't tried any varnish yet. Grabbed some Vallejo matte and 'ardcoat to test out.
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Aug 13, 2016 01:03
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Yvonmukluk posted:I'm about to start painting a whole bunch of plastic tanks (Battlefront Comets) for Flames of War purposes, but I'm not really a very good painter. I was thinking of just following this guide, but I'm not really one for being able to faff around with thinning paints and stuff for the undercoat. Are there good primer paints that can be applied by regular brushes, or is it only spraypaint/airbrush only? The weather where I live sucks for spraying and I don't have an airbrush, so I grabbed the mentioned Vallejo Surface Primer this past weekend and it works awesome going on by brush. I did two thin coats and it seems smooth, durable, and black as the ace of spades.
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Aug 13, 2016 01:06
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