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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

IOwnCalculus posted:

I don't think the full warranty length transfers beyond the initial owner, though.

Only if its a CPO.

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puberty worked me over
May 20, 2013

by Cyrano4747
.

puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jan 4, 2020

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Wonder Weapon posted:

Is it possible to reuse the existing fabric that came with the car after removing the crummy foam,

Kastein nailed this but I just want to add on: the foam is part of your headliner. The "fabric" is whatever fabric you think you want plus the foam backing. You need to scrape that poo poo off the card that it's attached to and prep it well, then buy new purpose built headliner material (which has a foam backing attached to it) and apply it properly as he said.

If you aren't sure you can do that: %75 of the money is in removal and replacement of that card. So if you're handy but not confident of your "quilting" skill just pull it out and find someone who will recover it for you and then put it back in on your own.

I've tried this once (the whole deal). It's.........probably gonna be better the next time I try?

Seriously.....for something you want to keep nice just bring the card to a shop. Do the poo poo work yourself and save a ton.

CharlieWhiskey
Aug 18, 2005

everything, all the time

this is the world

Extra posted:

Don't buy a car from that dealership.

Bought my newest commuter car at an independent dealership because it was the cheapest one in 200 miles with the lowest mileage and they didn't care at all if I brought it to a friend's to put it up on a lift and look at everything.
+1. My sister was car shopping and she found something she liked and wanted it inspected. The dealer said if it was gone longer than 30 minutes it would have to be reported stolen. :rolleyes:

She walked out, found the next best car at another dealer and they said she could take it all afternoon. She brought it to my place and I put it up on jackstands and let her crawl around underneath it.

If a salesman doesn't want you to take a closer look, you probably shouldn't, and you should run away.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Motronic posted:

Kastein nailed this but I just want to add on: the foam is part of your headliner. The "fabric" is whatever fabric you think you want plus the foam backing. You need to scrape that poo poo off the card that it's attached to and prep it well, then buy new purpose built headliner material (which has a foam backing attached to it) and apply it properly as he said.

If you aren't sure you can do that: %75 of the money is in removal and replacement of that card. So if you're handy but not confident of your "quilting" skill just pull it out and find someone who will recover it for you and then put it back in on your own.

I've tried this once (the whole deal). It's.........probably gonna be better the next time I try?

Seriously.....for something you want to keep nice just bring the card to a shop. Do the poo poo work yourself and save a ton.

This sounds like it's probably a great happy medium. Real quick though, when you say card, do you mean the fiberglass (or whatever it's made of) panel that the foam/fabric is attached to?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Any recommendations on a good way to find a good traffic lawyer? Especially in the San Fernando valley area in California.

Someone I know is going to need one. No, it's not me.

0toShifty
Aug 21, 2005
0 to Stiffy?

A cool drat horse posted:

Great, thanks guys. Side note: I read that there might be an issue with batteries with the electric drivetrains with older Honda Civic hybrids if they've never been replaced. I did notice the car was pretty slow to accelerate, but that might be standard for the model. Do I have anything to worry about with that?

Civic Hybrid batteries tend to be less reliable than the Prius batteries in service. I believe that both Toyota and Honda have a target design life of 150,000 miles for their battery packs. The Prius one has turned out to be far more reliable in practice.

There are actually now aftermarket rebuilt batteries available for these cars though. Dorman of course. Costs about $2100 bucks.

The car accelerates slowly because of the way the CVT transmission is programmed to save gas. Remember that everything about a hybrid is to be efficient, including MAKING you drive efficiently. You'll learn how and when to kick that pedal to go fast when you need to.

heat
Sep 4, 2003

The Mad Monk
2001 Acura Integra, B18B1 engine, 215k miles

I was replacing the spark plugs but one wouldn't move more than 90 - 180 degrees. After soaking it in Kroil all day and night I got it out, but a bunch of aluminum from the head came out with it and the threads are stripped to hell, must have been cross threaded. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with HeliCoil thread inserts for spark plugs. I have an appointment for an inspection tomorrow, so I could either give this a shot myself or see if the shop will install a HeliCoil or Time-sert or whatever if I can drift/push the car down there.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
I paid a shop to do it on my Focus...never done it before and was about to sell the car, so I didn't want to take any chances. It was less than $100.

life is killing me
Oct 28, 2007

Edit: posted question in wrong forum

life is killing me fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Aug 14, 2016

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

The Nautical Insanity thread is probably what you're looking for.

life is killing me
Oct 28, 2007

Enourmo posted:

The Nautical Insanity thread is probably what you're looking for.

Thanks. I didn't look hard enough :(

clam ache
Sep 6, 2009

heat posted:

2001 Acura Integra, B18B1 engine, 215k miles

I was replacing the spark plugs but one wouldn't move more than 90 - 180 degrees. After soaking it in Kroil all day and night I got it out, but a bunch of aluminum from the head came out with it and the threads are stripped to hell, must have been cross threaded. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with HeliCoil thread inserts for spark plugs. I have an appointment for an inspection tomorrow, so I could either give this a shot myself or see if the shop will install a HeliCoil or Time-sert or whatever if I can drift/push the car down there.

That's a common problem on certain acuras of that vintage and older. A shop will be able to do it very easily. Not the hardest diy job but can be messed up very easily.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

SouthsideSaint posted:

That's a common problem on certain acuras of that vintage and older. A shop will be able to do it very easily. Not the hardest diy job but can be messed up very easily.

Yes if it just one have a shop do it

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Wonder Weapon posted:

This sounds like it's probably a great happy medium. Real quick though, when you say card, do you mean the fiberglass (or whatever it's made of) panel that the foam/fabric is attached to?

Yep, that's the one. It's usually just some kind of cardboard/fiber board.

ChewedFood
Jul 22, 2012
At what pressure does a 195 degree thermostat open? Does it work like that, is there an associated pressure with 195 degrees that it will open at?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

ChewedFood posted:

At what pressure does a 195 degree thermostat open? Does it work like that, is there an associated pressure with 195 degrees that it will open at?

Thermostats are typically driven by a wax bulb, or a metal bimetalic strip. Pressure doesn't drive them, temperature does. A 195 deg thermostat, should be fully open at 195 deg.

What is pressure driven, is your radiator cap. That has a pressure above which that it will vent. Those come in different values too.

Out of curiosity, why does "pressure" come to mind when you're thinking about thermostats?

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Nerobro posted:

Out of curiosity, why does "pressure" come to mind when you're thinking about thermostats?

I'm going to say maybe because it has a spring? It's not obvious it's controlled by wax melting and I myself can't quite grasp how wax manages to make it open...

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






88h88 posted:

I'm going to say maybe because it has a spring? It's not obvious it's controlled by wax melting and I myself can't quite grasp how wax manages to make it open...

The wax expands when it melts and actuates a plunger

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

The wax melts and expands with heat, which squeezes a rubber sleeve that then squeezes out the pin attached to the thermostat frame. That eventually overcomes the spring tension and opens the valve.



The pressure difference across a thermostat isn't gonna be enough to make a difference, it's a pretty stiff, pre-loaded spring.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
This is also the reason the side with the wax pellet capsule must be toward the supply of hot coolant from the cylinder head, or in some cases sticks into the cylinder head (jeep 4.0L) or intake manifold (Chevy SBC, Vortec afaik) itself. If it's on the side away from the heated coolant, the thermostat has to open to let coolant out to the wax pellet... so it can open, AKA a catch-22.

epic bird guy
Dec 9, 2014

If I want to replace tie rod ends on a 15 year old rust belt car, what are the odds that I'll need to use extreme measures to get them removed?

Also is it worth replacing CV axle boots myself or is it enough of a pain where I should just have a shop do it?

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Just replace the axles.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
That's usually what Slash suggests.

Dr. Derek
Jan 1, 2010

Faster than a dead horse falling through orbit

2000 Dodge Neon 2.0 L 4-cylinder

Does anyone know where the ECU is located in this car? I can't get any reliable results on google for that one piece of information.

epic bird guy
Dec 9, 2014

Dr. Derek posted:

2000 Dodge Neon 2.0 L 4-cylinder

Does anyone know where the ECU is located in this car? I can't get any reliable results on google for that one piece of information.

In the engine bay, left side, near the battery and washer fluid reservoir. The Chrysler term is PCM (powertrain control module) so unless you're searching with that term it might be hard to find.

epic bird guy
Dec 9, 2014

Geirskogul posted:

Just replace the axles.

Is that the go to even for preventative replacement? The boots aren't cracked through, and its only on the side that until recently had oil spraying all over it from the front oil seal.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Wait, if they're not cracked, why are you replacing them?

That said, if you're replacing boots, it's almost always a very similar price to do the axles themselves. Axles as a whole are less a pain in the rear end, too. Boot jobs are obsolete in all but rare parts cars.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
So a family member offered me their 2008 X3 for its Carmax trade in value, but it's the Si with staggered 19" wheels and it needs new tires.

Front: 235/45-19
Rear: 255/40-19

The only thing with matching tread pattern I can find in that size are expensive Pirelli P-Zero Rosso summers at $1000-1200/set.

I'm looking at 3 options:

1) Buy another set of Pirellis. We get a lot of rain where I live so I'm concerned about their performance in the rain. I don't want to keep buying expensive tires for the car but we would likely only have it until we are comfortable buying a newer CX5 or Outback or something. My wife only drives 5-7k miles/year so it is possible we'd only buy tires for this car once before selling it again.

2) I've read online that you can run a 235/40 on the front wheel, which would open up a lot of options besides the Pirellis, but I'm taking that with huge a grain of salt. Wouldn't there be a sacrifice in safety and performance?

3) Sell the OEM 19s and buy 18s with decent all seasons for around the same total price as the Pirellis ($1000-$1200). Not sure if anyone would want to buy the OEM 19s and the car looks funny on the smaller wheels, but it would get us into better rubber and it would make tire shopping easier in the long run if we keep the car longer than expected.

Can someone check my thinking on this?

blk fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Aug 16, 2016

epic bird guy
Dec 9, 2014

Geirskogul posted:

Wait, if they're not cracked, why are you replacing them?

That said, if you're replacing boots, it's almost always a very similar price to do the axles themselves. Axles as a whole are less a pain in the rear end, too. Boot jobs are obsolete in all but rare parts cars.

They are cracked, but the cracks are just starting to show, and aren't completely through the rubber. I only noticed when I had them off when taking the engine out a couple months ago, after clearing away all the grime from the aforementioned oil leak.

Its a Saab so some parts are getting harder to find.

I could get the axle assembly for close to $90, or aftermarket boots for much less money. I'm not opposed to replacing the whole axle at all, but if I don't have to $90 is $90, and with that axle assembly I'd still need to be packing and assembling the inner joint.

Christobevii3
Jul 3, 2006

blk posted:

So a family member offered me their 2008 X3 for its Carmax trade in value, but it's the Si with staggered 19" wheels and it needs new tires.

Front: 235/45-19
Rear: 255/40-19

The only thing with matching tread pattern I can find in that size are expensive Pirelli P-Zero Rosso summers at $1000-1200/set.

I'm looking at 3 options:

1) Buy another set of Pirellis. We get a lot of rain where I live so I'm concerned about their performance in the rain. I don't want to keep buying expensive tires for the car but we would likely only have it until we are comfortable buying a newer CX5 or Outback or something. My wife only drives 5-7k miles/year so it is possible we'd only buy tires for this car once before selling it again.

2) I've read online that you can run a 235/40 on the front wheel, which would open up a lot of options besides the Pirellis, but I'm taking that with huge a grain of salt. Wouldn't there be a sacrifice in safety and performance?

3) Sell the OEM 19s and buy 18s with decent all seasons for around the same total price as the Pirellis ($1000-$1200). Not sure if anyone would want to buy the OEM 19s and the car looks funny on the smaller wheels, but it would get us into better rubber and it would make tire shopping easier in the long run if we keep the car longer than expected.

Can someone check my thinking on this?

235/40 and 235/45 is very small amount of change, there are comparison things online. For $1200 just go buy a set of 18" wheels and tire package of tirerack and then you don't have to deal with this next time. What was the stock rim and tire size on those cars from the factory?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






Summer tires are made especially to deal with rain no?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





spankmeister posted:

Summer tires are made especially to deal with rain no?

Not necessarily, and in some cases barely at all. They aren't as deadly in rain as they are on snow, sleet, or even just a sub-freezing dry road, but a lot of true summer tires are really designed around dry warm roads first and foremost.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

blk posted:

So a family member offered me their 2008 X3 for its Carmax trade in value, but it's the Si with staggered 19" wheels and it needs new tires.

Front: 235/45-19
Rear: 255/40-19

The only thing with matching tread pattern I can find in that size are expensive Pirelli P-Zero Rosso summers at $1000-1200/set.

I'm looking at 3 options:

1) Buy another set of Pirellis. We get a lot of rain where I live so I'm concerned about their performance in the rain. I don't want to keep buying expensive tires for the car but we would likely only have it until we are comfortable buying a newer CX5 or Outback or something. My wife only drives 5-7k miles/year so it is possible we'd only buy tires for this car once before selling it again.

2) I've read online that you can run a 235/40 on the front wheel, which would open up a lot of options besides the Pirellis, but I'm taking that with huge a grain of salt. Wouldn't there be a sacrifice in safety and performance?

3) Sell the OEM 19s and buy 18s with decent all seasons for around the same total price as the Pirellis ($1000-$1200). Not sure if anyone would want to buy the OEM 19s and the car looks funny on the smaller wheels, but it would get us into better rubber and it would make tire shopping easier in the long run if we keep the car longer than expected.

Can someone check my thinking on this?

I don't know the offsets with regards to changing the front or the back, but my 335 has staggered wheels, and I bought a set of square all seasons because I'm not running high end summers in January, and gently caress staggered tire pricing. Find something square that works (if you're keeping it longer, I guess), people on the bmw specific forums buy and sell wheels with and without tires all the time. I'd also gauge if 19s have enough rubber for the roads in your area, notably because it's a bad idea in/near Philly.

It's an SUV with 265hp. Buy nice/good all seasons regardless of square/staggered. Don't drop $1k+ on high performance summers that last for 10k miles. I've done that on 3 series sedans, it's annoying, and good all seasons work unless you're going to be finding all of the apexes.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

IOwnCalculus posted:

Not necessarily, and in some cases barely at all. They aren't as deadly in rain as they are on snow, sleet, or even just a sub-freezing dry road, but a lot of true summer tires are really designed around dry warm roads first and foremost.

Anything Khumo that says "summer" on it will kill you in the rain.

Christobevii3
Jul 3, 2006
The kumho escta le sport isn't that bad in the rain. The solus cheap all seasons that came on my car with terrifying within 1000 miles of getting the car I just gave them away.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006






Anyone ever reattach a rear view mirror of this type? Is it just clean it and glue it with this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-841...mirror+adhesive (specifically an 18 month review for rear view mirror in there)

The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Aug 16, 2016

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I think I used that when my first Jeep's rear view went walkabout, and it held for as long as I owned the thing.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
1996 Subaru Legacy
I burned through an alternator in like 4 years. The guy at the parts store said it appeared quite worn. The crank pully has a visible wobble. Tried replacing it a year ago (the harmonic balancer) but it didn't change. Did I bend the crank shaft or keyway when I re installed it twice, without the right tools (when I did the timing belt a couple years ago)? Is that wobble why the alternator died young?

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Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Google is confusing me. Does a 2005 Cavalier have a post-cat 02 sensor? One of my friends started her car to discover her cat had been sawed off and she's not doing so well financially right now so I was thinking she could just get a straight pipe welded in. Possible?

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