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"Hey you gotta turn around, car show only" "I'm here for the car show" "Car show only I said!!!" "I am here for the car show" "What?" "I am here for the car show" "You wanna enter the car show?" "Yes" "That thing" "Yes" *rolls eyes* "20 bucks"  Hopefully I'll beat the golf cart at least
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Jul 31, 2016 19:31
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gently caress that guy. Your MJ is 100 times as cool as that run of the mill compensater corvette. In jeep news I need new seats. My wife is tired of getting stuck to the leather. Its a 99 WJ we want cloth. I know zj seats swap into the xj but would anyone know if they swap into newer cars? In having a hard time googling a definitive answer.
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Jul 31, 2016 20:20
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Yesterday I was headed to a lot to finish my winch install (pre-tension the synthetic rope), backed out of driveway and heard some noise... pulled up, back down again... something is wrong! Sigh. Looks like the center bolt of the leaf pack broke and the smallest helper spring is gone. I think I heard the sudden departure of those items the other day. Luckily I havn't driven between then and yesterday. Rubicon Express 4" springs and new bushings ordered for both sides of the rear end. Should be a lot better than the pro comp BS that were on there anyway. And I was going to run a trail today 
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Jul 31, 2016 20:27
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blk posted:Do I have any hope at all of finding a 4wd Commanche without rust for a reasonable price? Really striking out on craigslist & co You'll probably have to travel for one. Here's one near San Diego that appears rust free, is 4x4, and manual for $3,500. Clean title too. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5675023995.html  Super clean RWD one: http://slo.craigslist.org/cto/5640936738.html 
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Aug 1, 2016 10:30
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Since every Jeep forum I check has as many opinions as assholes, I'm asking here for lift suggestions. I'm starting to budget for a jk lift to put 35s under. I'm figuring on regearing to 4.88(?) and lifting 3.5" Any thread preferences between Rock Krawler and Metal cloak?
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Aug 1, 2016 18:30
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DonkeyHotay posted:Since every Jeep forum I check has as many opinions as assholes, I'm asking here for lift suggestions. I'm starting to budget for a jk lift to put 35s under. I'm figuring on regearing to 4.88(?) and lifting 3.5" Any thread preferences between Rock Krawler and Metal cloak? Evo is what I run on mine. Their 3" Enforcer with Bilstein 5100 shocks is pretty awesome.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:34
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DonkeyHotay posted:Since every Jeep forum I check has as many opinions as assholes, I'm asking here for lift suggestions. I'm starting to budget for a jk lift to put 35s under. I'm figuring on regearing to 4.88(?) and lifting 3.5" Any thread preferences between Rock Krawler and Metal cloak? i went with the rock krawler 3.5 x factor to go with my 35s cause i found a crazy discount on it. no regrets here, although both of those options are going to be good considering the cost (and well outside the 'budget' category). going from the stock control arms to the adjustable uppers and lowers was eye-opening. the stock pieces look hilarious anemic in comparison. as a suggestion, though- unless you plan on actually crawling and needing that extra articulation, go with a 2.5 or a 3". it'll save you a lot of cash and the JK will still fit 35s no problem, doubly so if you trim or replace your fenders. at 3.5" i could easily fit a 37 or 38.
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Aug 1, 2016 22:57
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Do boomerang shackles actually do anything to affect ride quality and/or articulation? Are they "worth it" for the rear end of a YJ? I'm replacing the rear spring packs as I mentioned a few posts up and this would be a "while I'm in there...." Edit: ordered the rubicon express boomerang shackles for the rear. When I get everything installed I will try to remember to say whether I notice a difference over procomp springs and stock shackles with old bushings. Which is what I will still have up front. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Aug 3, 2016 |
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Aug 2, 2016 23:41
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Well, my install has not as well as I hoped. I was hoping I wouldn't need an SYE, but had planned to purchase it anyway. Everything is installed and I need it. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend, measure for a drive shaft and order one. I also have some 15x8 4" back spaced wheels on order as well. I sure hope this rides nice.
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Aug 3, 2016 02:08
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Do boomerang shackles actually do anything to affect ride quality and/or articulation? Are they "worth it" for the rear end of a YJ? I'm replacing the rear spring packs as I mentioned a few posts up and this would be a "while I'm in there...." No, they just provide clearance from body mounts or whatever where a straight shackle may run into some interference on certain vehicles. The new bushings will probably provide a nice improvement if your old ones are ragged. If your front bushings are old and beat, I'd suggest replacing them as well, as that will affect steering and handling as well. Also beware pinion angle changes with longer than stock shackles...may not be significant enough to cause any issues, but if they are like 1.5" lift (3" longer than stock) they may.
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Aug 3, 2016 16:42
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Paulie posted:No, they just provide clearance from body mounts or whatever where a straight shackle may run into some interference on certain vehicles. The new bushings will probably provide a nice improvement if your old ones are ragged. If your front bushings are old and beat, I'd suggest replacing them as well, as that will affect steering and handling as well. Also beware pinion angle changes with longer than stock shackles...may not be significant enough to cause any issues, but if they are like 1.5" lift (3" longer than stock) they may. Thanks for the info. The ones I bought say 1" longer than stock. Eventually I need to get fronts as well but wanted to spread it out a bit. I'll probably wait until winter to do front springs and shackles with matching rubicon express stuff.
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Aug 3, 2016 17:58
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A set of HD shackles is a good idea especially on the YJ due to how thin and weak the stock shackles can be. I snapped 1 and almost snapped another and it didn't even happen off road.
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Aug 4, 2016 21:26
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I smelled gas this morning and popped the hood. There's a puddle of gas under the damper on my fuel rail, and it's dripping at a steady pace. I soaked it up and put the jeep back in the garage until I can fix it. I understand from the dealership that the damper is not a serviceable part, but people online say they've gotten away with replacing the o-ring rather than buying a whole new fuel rail. I'm planning on swapping the fuel damper o-ring for a new one tonight - has anyone ever messed with this thing before? 2002 TJ with 4.0. 
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Aug 8, 2016 22:09
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There is a special place in hell for the person at Chrysler that decided that the bolts that connect the rear shackles to the frame should go in with the bolt head closest to the gas tank, instead of putting the nut on that side.
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Aug 9, 2016 04:55
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Astonishing Wang posted:I smelled gas this morning and popped the hood. There's a puddle of gas under the damper on my fuel rail, and it's dripping at a steady pace. I soaked it up and put the jeep back in the garage until I can fix it. I understand from the dealership that the damper is not a serviceable part, but people online say they've gotten away with replacing the o-ring rather than buying a whole new fuel rail. Never replaced it, but I can tell you that there's a 99% chance that any 96-99 4.0L fuel rail will fit right in place of yours. I don't think they have the damper, not sure, maybe hit the boneyard and compare the fuel feed line position and diameter to yours and swap one on? Pretty easy as long as you have a set of the good quickconnect tools (the anodized aluminum ones at autozone are great) and IIRC all you need is a 10mm and a 12pack of injector O-rings.
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Aug 9, 2016 15:21
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kastein posted:Never replaced it, but I can tell you that there's a 99% chance that any 96-99 4.0L fuel rail will fit right in place of yours. I don't think they have the damper, not sure, maybe hit the boneyard and compare the fuel feed line position and diameter to yours and swap one on? Pretty easy as long as you have a set of the good quickconnect tools (the anodized aluminum ones at autozone are great) and IIRC all you need is a 10mm and a 12pack of injector O-rings. I took the damper off and replaced the o-ring with one from a viton assortment pack. It fixed the leak to the point that it's not puddling, but there's still a slight wetness on the bottom of the part when the jeep is running. Not enough gas is leaking to accrue and be witnessed, but I feel there may still be a slight leak, unless the damper is meant to allow vapor through, which seems reckless. I had to press the clips back on this thing to release it from the rail, and after swapping the o-rings I had to pull them back out so that they'd grab on again. I bent them out and then used my bench vice to press the damper back onto the rail. There was a series of reassuring click sounds when I hit the right depth and it was on. Here's the original seal - looks fine to me?  Here's the new viton o-ring, this fit a lot tighter and was not as pliable as the original.  I should spend a few minutes de-gunking but I probably won't :/  I'm going to buy a new rail for peace of mind - a buddy is selling one from the same time period XJ that has the damper, but I don't think I want to buy one and wonder when it's going to give out. I can get the new rail WITHOUT damper for ~$130, or the OEM with damper for about $220. I feel like the damper should be there if only because it's part of the design, do you think running a rail without one would cause problems?
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Aug 9, 2016 16:17
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I've got no idea TBH. Since they ran fine from 96-98 or 96-99 without it, I feel like it will probably do fine without, but it's up to you. Maybe there was some dirt on the O-ring seat surface or a burr or something and it nicked the new one?
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Aug 9, 2016 16:24
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A mechanic once told me that a fuel rail damper was (in so many words) auto engineer 'sperging, and never the cause of any running/driving issues until they fail and leak. YMMV, literally.
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Aug 9, 2016 23:05
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I'm pretty sure the a/c clutch bearing in my '99 XJ just went tits up. It's grinding like hell regardless of whether or not the a/c is turned on so it's probably not the compressor itself. Clutch engages fine, just grinds. I'm getting mixed results when searching on whether or not the bearing can be replaced without yanking the whole compressor out. I'd rather not have to discharge the whole system since I'm poor. I'm still looking for a halfway decent writeup but if someone can point me in the right direction I'd be forever grateful.
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Aug 12, 2016 02:45
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I've never heard of a compressor that you couldn't pull the clutch while leaving the system charged, if that's your concern. Room to work could be a different issue.
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Aug 12, 2016 03:44
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Its just a bolt and a few snap rings and everything should come off the front of the compressor. No need to discharge the system.
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Aug 12, 2016 03:50
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DAT RAM posted:I'm pretty sure the a/c clutch bearing in my '99 XJ just went tits up. It's grinding like hell regardless of whether or not the a/c is turned on so it's probably not the compressor itself. Clutch engages fine, just grinds. When my A/C clutch poo poo its pants the most common advice I was given was that A/C clutches/bearings usually don't fail on their own without the compressor driving them to suicide. Plus I had a look through my service manual and it looks like the biggest pain in the rear end to replace either, assuming you can even find a replacement. Looks like you're probably going to have to replace the whole compressor which requires the accumulator and fixed orifice tube (the orifice itself is not replaceable, regardless of what RockAuto sells you) to also be replaced then the system vacuumed and refilled. Goondolances. By any chance, have you recently topped off with refrigerant containing stop leak? Because that killed my first compressor and my friend's, even though I told him about my experience in advance. Edit: I just looked through the service manual again and it doesn't look too bad. First time around my eyes glazed over at all the "use special tool #..." in that section, but they're mostly pullers and a holding tool (and then I found a compressor on Amazon with a misplaced decimal point and hit "Buy It Now" as fast as I could). It still looks easier to replace the whole suspect compressor than to source the correct clutch/bearing and then replace them, but it is definitely the cheaper option and if you screw it up you always have a complete compressor replacement as a backup option (assuming you have another way to get to work). Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 12, 2016 |
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Aug 12, 2016 03:50
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My '99 compressor went last month. I think it was just the clutch, but I went ahead and replaced the whole thing anyway. It spent the first half of its life on the hot side of the state, so it was probably used and abused regularly. New condenser, accumulator, and refrig tube as well. Had a shop purge it, replaced everything at home, then took it back for a vacuum and charge. Swapped out my generic e-fans with Spal pullers while I was in there and now I can have the A/C on full blast in 90+ degree weather and still sit around 207 degrees on the coolant. Even with my big trans cooler up front. Haven't hit 210 yet, even after revving up some long hills in 3rd gear. Broke the god damned tensioner nut thingy (dealership part, it looked cheaply cast) when I was tightening the belt. Broke the original about 6 months before that. Maybe that's why the compressor died in the first place, who knows. Got a replacement off amazon (which looks machined and much nicer) and a Krikit II gauge to avoid that poo poo from happening again.
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Aug 12, 2016 05:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've never heard of a compressor that you couldn't pull the clutch while leaving the system charged, if that's your concern. Room to work could be a different issue. Veeb0rg posted:Its just a bolt and a few snap rings and everything should come off the front of the compressor. No need to discharge the system. Like I said, it's a mixed bag  I might just pony up and get a new compressor. I know I'll have to pay a shop to capture the existing freon, but is it realistic to just use auto zone's loaner tools to get a vacuum pump and flush kit and then charge the system myself? Also to top things off, I had a U bolt on the rear end snap yesterday too. Hell of a jeep day.
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Aug 12, 2016 12:45
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I didn't think auto zone still had a loaner vacuum pump, but if you replace the compressor make sure you keep the receipts for the accumulator, orifice tube, and flush kit so you have some chance of them honoring the warranty if it goes out again.
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Aug 12, 2016 13:26
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Cat Hatter posted:I didn't think auto zone still had a loaner vacuum pump, but if you replace the compressor make sure you keep the receipts for the accumulator, orifice tube, and flush kit so you have some chance of them honoring the warranty if it goes out again. I just called my local auto zone and mine does still have a loaner. Cheapest compressor I can find is off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/UAC-CO-4691C-C-Compressor/dp/B00CFQQA7O Not sure if it's worth a drat or not.
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Aug 12, 2016 14:04
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Philip J Fry posted:My '99 compressor went last month. I think it was just the clutch, but I went ahead and replaced the whole thing anyway. It spent the first half of its life on the hot side of the state, so it was probably used and abused regularly. New condenser, accumulator, and refrig tube as well. Had a shop purge it, replaced everything at home, then took it back for a vacuum and charge. Swapped out my generic e-fans with Spal pullers while I was in there and now I can have the A/C on full blast in 90+ degree weather and still sit around 207 degrees on the coolant. Even with my big trans cooler up front. Haven't hit 210 yet, even after revving up some long hills in 3rd gear. those goddamned tensioner bolts are the bane of my existence, I think I've snapped 5 or 6 so far. They're bad enough that I keep one on hand as a spare before even thinking about touching one I've not dealt with previously. M8x1.25 thread, and they're so long and fully threaded that no store has them on the shelf except crown automotive and the dealer plus a few online bolt sellers. Standard practice for me on a new XJ/MJ/YJ/ZJ now is to make sure I know where my spare is (95- vs 96+ they are different, too) and then disassemble it, pull the whole tensioner assembly out intact without turning it any more than I have to, wirewheel the threads downhill from where the bolt goes through the pinch block, propane torch the pinchblock and add some penetrating oil, then spin it out, wirewheel the rest of the bolt, run an M8x1.25 tap through the block and slather the whole mess with antiseize. Then reinstall. Haven't lost one since I started doing this. I really wish they just used a proper spring tensioner like the WJ and I think some TJs use.
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Aug 12, 2016 16:13
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I might be a bonehead about the drat a/c. I put a new belt on a couple weeks before (probably should have mentioned that) and I think I over tightened it. I loosened it up and the sound pretty much went away, albeit a slight whine that may or may not be from the compressor is still there. I don't daily drive it since I work from home and my wife doesn't work, which is probably why it didn't crop up in the first place. Debating on just rolling the dice. A/C still blows cold as hell and there's no apparent clutch issues.
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Aug 12, 2016 18:52
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Go get a Krikit (phone posting or I'd link it) so you can properly tension your belt and use your compressor until it falls apart.
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Aug 12, 2016 19:26
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I installed the new fuel rail and all is well with my TJ again - no fiery explosions, not even a gas smell. While I was working on pulling the rail I replaced the injector o-rings too, so it's good to know that's done. I noticed that the throttle return spring broke and came off of the bracket so I ordered a new one of those. I had noticed that the jeep was pretty 'jumpy' lately, and it seems like the springs main purpose is to smooth out the throttle, so that'll be cool to have fixed. Right now I have it hooked on with two opposite-facing paperclips that I looped through the spring. Office-guy fixes throttle problem.
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Aug 12, 2016 20:56
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I believe those are mostly to simulate the tension of the throttle valve cable on an automatic, since if they size the throttle body return spring, throttle valve cable tension, throttle levers, and pedal all for auto and then add a 50 cent spring to add the missing tension it is cheaper than having auto and manual versions of some or all of those parts. My MJ did fine without one for some time before I saw one at the junkyard and realized mine was missing (since I never put it on when swapping from 2wd auto to 4wd manual.)
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Aug 15, 2016 03:35
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kastein posted:I believe those are mostly to simulate the tension of the throttle valve cable on an automatic, since if they size the throttle body return spring, throttle valve cable tension, throttle levers, and pedal all for auto and then add a 50 cent spring to add the missing tension it is cheaper than having auto and manual versions of some or all of those parts. My MJ did fine without one for some time before I saw one at the junkyard and realized mine was missing (since I never put it on when swapping from 2wd auto to 4wd manual.) How does the auto throttle cable differ from the manual throttle cable? The TJ doesn't still use a kickdown or TV cable, does it?
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Aug 15, 2016 04:16
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Raluek posted:How does the auto throttle cable differ from the manual throttle cable? The TJ doesn't still use a kickdown or TV cable, does it? I meant the throttle valve cable, yeah. I dunno about TJs, but any xxRH series transmission is going to have one while I don't believe xxRE transmissions (same thing for the same model number, just with electronic governor control and sense instead of hydraulic w/ line pressure controlled by the TV cable) have one, not sure. 4.0L XJs with the AW4 used a TV cable all the way up till 2001, with the transmission being essentially the same (aside from some minor changes and sensor additions over the years) since 1987.
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Aug 15, 2016 15:36
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kastein posted:I meant the throttle valve cable, yeah. I dunno about TJs, but any xxRH series transmission is going to have one while I don't believe xxRE transmissions (same thing for the same model number, just with electronic governor control and sense instead of hydraulic w/ line pressure controlled by the TV cable) have one, not sure. 4.0L XJs with the AW4 used a TV cable all the way up till 2001, with the transmission being essentially the same (aside from some minor changes and sensor additions over the years) since 1987. That reminds me....I broke the TV cable (or is it the kickdown cable?) on my 94 ZJ (V8) by merely touching the plastic at the throttle body. I haven't replaced it yet. It drives fine, but I cannot recall if kickdown happens or not. I should probably replace it but drat, it looks like such a bitch to get to and Mopar wants a lot of money for that cable.
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Aug 16, 2016 02:20
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kastein posted:I meant the throttle valve cable, yeah. I dunno about TJs, but any xxRH series transmission is going to have one while I don't believe xxRE transmissions (same thing for the same model number, just with electronic governor control and sense instead of hydraulic w/ line pressure controlled by the TV cable) have one, not sure. 4.0L XJs with the AW4 used a TV cable all the way up till 2001, with the transmission being essentially the same (aside from some minor changes and sensor additions over the years) since 1987. Huh, I figured by then they'd be on an electronic transmission. I think GM switched from the 4L60 to the 4L60E sometime in the early 90s. I'm surprised they still were using non-electronic transmissions into the 2000s. TotalLossBrain posted:That reminds me....I broke the TV cable (or is it the kickdown cable?) on my 94 ZJ (V8) by merely touching the plastic at the throttle body. I haven't replaced it yet. It drives fine, but I cannot recall if kickdown happens or not. If it's just a kickdown, you can run without it. But if it's a TV cable, get on that fast. At least, if it's anything like GM TV cables. IIRC, it controls the line pressure in the trans, so if it doesn't have the correct tension on it you can cause issues in the trans. But that's all I know about that! You might want to do more reading on the subject.
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Aug 16, 2016 02:28
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Thanks for that info. I'll look into it some more. I don't really need the whole new cable, only the plastic end piece. I bought some of those before but they are too short.
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Aug 16, 2016 02:57
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I once snapped part of the end off the TV cable on my coworker's 4.0L ZJ. I epoxied it back together (it was a "don't let the important part slide off" section of plastic, not a load bearing section) but he drove home with it disconnected so it could cure properly. He told me his car drove like a teenager learning how to drive stick, so I'd imagine if your Jeep doesn't drive differently then it uses a kickdown cable. *not an expert*
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Aug 16, 2016 05:34
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http://www.shapeways.com/product/V9TBTUKN2/jeep-4-0l-auto-transmission-throttle-valve-clip broke mine a year ago slapped one of these on plus epoxy so it won't slide off been going strong since . Also I know it says it's for a 2002 but it works for my 98 . Probably would work for yours
Torn Quad Jones fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Aug 16, 2016 |
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Aug 16, 2016 14:39
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They put multiple autos behind the 4.0L in various vehicles depending on what model and year it was. No guarantee that'll fit, but you can hope. Also, 3D printed parts have always seemed pretty brittle and fragile to me, at least the ones I've worked with. A hot engine compartment seems like a mistake.
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Aug 16, 2016 17:58
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Torn Quad Jones posted:http://www.shapeways.com/product/V9TBTUKN2/jeep-4-0l-auto-transmission-throttle-valve-clip broke mine a year ago slapped one of these on plus epoxy so it won't slide off been going strong since . Also I know it says it's for a 2002 but it works for my 98 . Probably would work for yours It looks to be the right length. Thanks for the link.
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Aug 16, 2016 20:37
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