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Got the Tomei LSD into the NC MX-5 race car yesterday and tested it. Awwwww yeah, bombing around backroads with Hoosier DOT-Rs. And awwwwww yeah, laying down two black stripes instead of one.
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Aug 15, 2016 15:59
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Did an oil change on the girlfriend's Scion XD. I'd just like to tell Toyota to go gently caress themselves for their stupid cartridge filter caps that require a slotted filter wrench to remove.
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Aug 16, 2016 00:29
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Was actually Saturday but I bought an engine for it. Spent some time over the last few days attempting to figure out how I'm going to make it fit... 2002 AP1 Honda S2000 complete swap with 31k miles for the race car
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Aug 16, 2016 12:56
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NitroSpazzz posted:Was actually Saturday but I bought an engine for it. Spent some time over the last few days attempting to figure out how I'm going to make it fit... Once you get everything together make sure you stay aware of the oil levels. AP1's are known to use oil when in VTEC, especially Mobil 1. Check the VIN to see if yours is after the banjo bolts were upgraded(mid year '02). If not, do some research to figure out if you'll want to replace them. It looks like tracking the engine is one of the cases where you'll generally want to do it.
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Aug 16, 2016 14:51
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fknlo posted:Once you get everything together make sure you stay aware of the oil levels. AP1's are known to use oil when in VTEC, especially Mobil 1. Check the VIN to see if yours is after the banjo bolts were upgraded(mid year '02). If not, do some research to figure out if you'll want to replace them. It looks like tracking the engine is one of the cases where you'll generally want to do it. Valve seals are an issue on AP1's too, right? My buddies ate oil like crazy.
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Aug 16, 2016 14:57
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The valve retainers can crack if it was ever mechanically over revved. If that is a track car you should put an oil baffle in the pan while the engines out
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Aug 16, 2016 15:28
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Had the GTV6 on scales to day: 1190 kg / 2620 lbs with ~30 liters of fuel. 327 324 278 261 In not so good news it seems that the fourth gear in the new close ratio gearbox is slipping and the clutch hydraulic system somehow randomly gets air into the system. The plan is to replace clutch master and slave cylinders and to try to fix the gearbox over the weekend with the guy who built the box. 
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Aug 16, 2016 17:31
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fknlo posted:Once you get everything together make sure you stay aware of the oil levels. AP1's are known to use oil when in VTEC, especially Mobil 1. Check the VIN to see if yours is after the banjo bolts were upgraded(mid year '02). If not, do some research to figure out if you'll want to replace them. It looks like tracking the engine is one of the cases where you'll generally want to do it. Nodoze posted:The valve retainers can crack if it was ever mechanically over revved. If that is a track car you should put an oil baffle in the pan while the engines out
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Aug 16, 2016 18:05
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NitroSpazzz posted:Hadn't heard about this before, thanks for the heads up. I'll be doing every optional reliability upgrade/fix I can find. Good stuff. Also check the timing chain tensioner for any noise as well. If it's rattling you can fix it yourself instead of buying a new one
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Aug 16, 2016 19:34
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My EG died on Sunday at the mall and I thought it was the main relay, so I ordered a new main relay. It wasn't the main relay. Hopefully it's just the ECU grounds on the thermostat housing but it could be the ECU itself.
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Aug 17, 2016 04:53
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Registered the EK civic I've been trying to sell for a couple of months, since there have been no real bites on it; only low baller bullshit. Not an hour later I get a bona fide offer of exactly my asking price by someone who actually speaks English and has money. In fact he offered me more than my asking price to throw in another set of wheels that he saw in the ad. Never fails. I'm not counting my chickens before they hatch though...
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 12:21
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My sweet Taurus station wagon developed a miss this morning and then threw a CEL. Go to find my code reader and it's not there, remember I let someone borrow it and texted them and they claim no knowledge of this event. gently caress you and your fat wife dude. Got the code read at Advance was cyl 3 misfire. Well that is all the way in the back and it is like 100 degrees. Decide to go back to the office and use a 40 off 100 coupon and get 6 plugs and a new coil for $60. Threw the new coil on there and it is fixed. Ordered a new code reader.
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Aug 17, 2016 22:00
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NitroSpazzz posted:Hadn't heard about this before, thanks for the heads up. I'll be doing every optional reliability upgrade/fix I can find. Have you looked at the arcasylum subframes? It's meant for an S54, but his setup adds a lot of clearance. Might be worth asking about depending on where the sump sits in the chassis. fknlo posted:Once you get everything together make sure you stay aware of the oil levels. AP1's are known to use oil when in VTEC, especially Mobil 1. Check the VIN to see if yours is after the banjo bolts were upgraded(mid year '02). If not, do some research to figure out if you'll want to replace them. It looks like tracking the engine is one of the cases where you'll generally want to do it. Oil? You mean VTEC Juice? Crustashio fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 23:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Hopefully it's just the ECU grounds on the thermostat housing but it could be the ECU itself. Nope it's the ECU  Probably needs new caps.
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Aug 18, 2016 04:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Nope it's the ECU Should've got a Mk 1/2 VW 
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Aug 18, 2016 05:01
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1500quidporsche posted:Should've got a Mk 1/2 VW Then I'd need a new DME relay and an ECU with new caps. And also probably a new wallet. e: replace DME relay, ECU for Mk1 with "sense of self-worth"
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Aug 18, 2016 05:05
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Hey man, At least the ECU is conveniently located under the razor thin rain tray for quick and easy replacement.
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Aug 18, 2016 05:17
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1500quidporsche posted:Should've got a Mk 1/2 VW In that case, budget for new taillight bulbs every six months?
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Aug 18, 2016 23:46
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I'm got a problem with my front driver's side control arm, 2007 CTS-V. I hit a curb and knocked the wheel backward in the wheel well. Happened several months ago when someone turned onto the road in front of me, and I went onto the median to avoid nailing her door. It's left such a bad taste in my mouth I just kept putting it off. drivers side and then passenger side, control arm rear bolts   I loosened the control arm-to-cradle bolt and found that the bolt sits in a slot. The repair manual calls for 100-lb ft on the bolt, but is that all I need to do? Center the wheel, tighten the bolt, and get an alignment? What keeps that bolt from sliding in the slot? It seems too simple. Anagram of GINGER fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 00:27
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double quotedammnit
Anagram of GINGER fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 04:32
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Are you sure you didn't bend or damage your control arm?
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Aug 19, 2016 04:40
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Lightbulb Out posted:Are you sure you didn't bend or damage your control arm? Pretty sure, yeah. Control arm is aluminum and there was a scrape at the front bolt and that's it. I'll check it again, but I'm pretty sure it lived.
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Aug 19, 2016 10:42
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Elsa posted:Pretty sure, yeah. Control arm is aluminum and there was a scrape at the front bolt and that's it. I'll check it again, but I'm pretty sure it lived. I do alignments for a body shop that half assrs all the time. Just looking at it won't tell you it it's bent. Aluminum control arms bend like playdoh in an accident. Have an alignment shop check it out.
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Aug 19, 2016 13:30
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I did my first 2 stage cut and polish this past sunday. My hands were incredibly sore the next day but it's absolutely worth the effort and energy required. Used a ton of Adam's Polishes products and the car came out great - the depth of the paint now is insane. lovely potato phone pic:  (yes, i need to find new center caps and lower it)
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Aug 19, 2016 13:52
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Elsa posted:It seems too simple. Definitely get it checked at shop.
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Aug 19, 2016 13:58
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GramCracker posted:I did my first 2 stage cut and polish this past sunday. My hands were incredibly sore the next day but it's absolutely worth the effort and energy required. Used a ton of Adam's Polishes products and the car came out great - the depth of the paint now is insane. I question the chrome (?) mirrors on both cars, however. Cage fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 14:16
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Cage posted:I question the chrome (?) mirrors on both cars, however. OEM yo
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Aug 19, 2016 14:30
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I figured that was the case. If the entire arm was chrome I think I would be okay with it, but its the black/chrome combo that looks funny to me. Are your turn signal bulbs the chrome looking ones that flash amber when they're lit? I love those things, I have them in my clear headlights too.
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Aug 19, 2016 14:35
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SouthsideSaint posted:I do alignments for a body shop that half assrs all the time. Just looking at it won't tell you it it's bent. Aluminum control arms bend like playdoh in an accident. Have an alignment shop check it out. Larrymer posted:Definitely get it checked at shop. Alright. I have a lifetime alignment deal with Firestone. Is that enough of a check, or am I looking for a place that can pull the frame too.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:00
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Depends on what's bent. Hopefully the arm is bent, if anything.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:01
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kastein posted:Depends on what's bent. Hopefully the arm is bent, if anything. True. I found it new with ball joint for $122. I'm curious if that includes bushings installed like in the picture.  Is there a big benefit to upgrading from cast aluminum?
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Aug 19, 2016 15:07
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sorry. emptyquote button misclick.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:08
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I'd rather have an aluminum control arm mechanical fuse than tear out a strut tower or transmission mount.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:13
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Elsa posted:True. I found it new with ball joint for $122. I'm curious if that includes bushings installed like in the picture. New arms come with bushings usually. Do you do any sort of track driving or anything that would really justify upgraded control arms? Even then I put them pretty low on the list of upgrades.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:13
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Larrymer posted:New arms come with bushings usually. no track, but I would like to tighten up the suspension better than stock and lower it just an inch or so. There are a few coil-over kits for the car now, at good prices. I was just thinking there might be control arms that take bigger bushings or have a revised geometry for lowered suspension.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:27
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Cage posted:The cactus is nice but is the blue one yours too? That looks sharp. The blue one is my best friend's. He bought it back in 2013 (I think) and has just been modifying it very slowly. Neither car is a true sports interior car though, so your eyeballs are right. The guy I sold my car to, and bought it back from, swapped the matte silver mirror caps I made for legit aluminum ones. The nogaro car had the mirrors swapped off a nogaro/nogaro automatic avant that he picked up for waaaay cheap. I'm trying to convince him to swap the full sport interior into the car in the image but he's not budging. There is a bonus 3rd avant in the photo...and it's also a 6sp Cactus.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:35
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Geirskogul posted:I'd rather have an aluminum control arm mechanical fuse than tear out a strut tower or transmission mount. Same here. Way easier and cheaper to replace.
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Aug 19, 2016 17:13
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Elsa posted:no track, but I would like to tighten up the suspension better than stock and lower it just an inch or so. There are a few coil-over kits for the car now, at good prices. I was just thinking there might be control arms that take bigger bushings or have a revised geometry for lowered suspension. Coilovers and sway bars would be about as far as you'd want to go then. Shocks and lowering springs are another (cheaper) option but I'd leave the arms alone. I had an 04 and I don't really remember what the options are for coils. KW3s maybe?
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Aug 19, 2016 20:00
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Larrymer posted:Coilovers and sway bars would be about as far as you'd want to go then. Shocks and lowering springs are another (cheaper) option but I'd leave the arms alone. There are several options now, all around $1k. It's a pretty good deal considering the rear shocks on CTS and Vees are hard to find, and for a while you could only get suspension kits that required their re-use. If it's time for a replacement, it's a bad idea not to spring for coil-overs. lol spring. I reset the control arm bolts and the wheel still isn't centered. There's less than a quarter inch difference between the two sides, and you can definitely tell when you measure the gap with a couple fingers. Hah I fingered my V The cradle-to-frame bolt next to the control arm seems to explain it. You can see where it shifted. The other cradle-to-frame bolts are normal, so the cradle is bent I guess.   I'm not too upset by it. I think I can get it streetable with an alignment in the meantime, and the engine is due for an overhaul anyway. I've wanted to put in a 6.6L stroker kit for two years now. The most upsetting thing for now is the bulge in the tire. The fronts have way more tread than the rears and I basically got caught needing a rotation. I basically need a full set of tires now. loving $800 or something.   The good news is the motor mounts still have about half their rubber left.  
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Aug 19, 2016 21:33
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Elsa posted:The good news is the motor mounts still have about half their rubber left. I don't think that's how it works dude. 
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Aug 20, 2016 07:39
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