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w00tmonger posted:Any advice on how you would go about doing something like whats done in the purple grooves here?
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Aug 17, 2016 00:59
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So I got a new can of Testor's clear coat and sprayed a couple light layers on a mini I used quick shade on, and the shine/gloss finish didn't get flattened like it normally does. What might be the issue and what should I do about it?
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Aug 17, 2016 01:00
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SRM posted:Does anyone have a really good tutorial for painting faces? I wanna step up my game before I get to Guilliman. One thing I remember reading somewhere is that in general, men's faces have deeper shadows and sharper transitions between shade and highlight colors, whereas womens' faces tend to require much smoother color blends. There are scads of different methods (base + wash + highlight, dark base + mid-tone + highlight, mid-tone + pick out shadowed areas + highlight, etc), and all have their merits. A lot depends on the skin tone you're going for. Lately, I've taken to using dark-base + mid-tone + highlight, but doing it in very thin glazes to allow me to get more precise color transitions (especially on female faces). Here's a dude I did just today, working on this month's Oath:  As you can see, the color transitions in the musculature are pretty sharp, and that's because I wanted him to have a chiseled, ripped, craggy, bat-poo poo-psychotic-motherfucker look. Here, you can better see the extra step I took of shading his cheeks and head ever-so-slightly gray to indicate razor stubble on the side of his head. Note that the color transition in the muscularture of his arms is strong, but not overly cartoony (I hope).  Here he is from head-on, where you can better see his goatee and his eyebrows:  Eyebrows are important! Do not forget the eyebrows! Miniature faces without eyebrows look SUPER weird and not right. All told, this guy was based with VMC US Field Drab, mid-toned with VMC Medium Fleshtone, and highlighted with VMC Flat Flesh. Ther was a little bit of blending going on between those, obviously, and I try to work with very thin layers. The razor stubble was my highlight color mixed with a little medium gray, and the tattoos are a mix of black and gray. Next time I do tattoos, I'll mix in a little bit of flesh tone to give them a more faded look - this dude looks like he stepped out of the tattoo parlor this morning. It's not exactly the look I was going for, but from table-top distance, it actually pops really nicely. I hope that helps! Good luck with Guilliman, I know how nerve-wracking it can be to get those centerpiece models just right. EDIT: And for all you jokers who carp about how cheesecakey CB's minis are (and don't get me wrong, there's definitely room for improvement there), I'd just like to point out that I painted nipples on a shirtless dude. So there. 
Ilor fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 01:39
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Unzip and Attack posted:So I got a new can of Testor's clear coat and sprayed a couple light layers on a mini I used quick shade on, and the shine/gloss finish didn't get flattened like it normally does. What might be the issue and what should I do about it? Another dose of Testors Dullcoat should do the trick, regardless.
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Aug 17, 2016 01:41
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Another quick question - is Testor's clear coat in the gray and blue can the same thing as testor's dullcoat?
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Aug 17, 2016 01:47
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SRM posted:Does anyone have a really good tutorial for painting faces? I wanna step up my game before I get to Guilliman. I'd ask serious gaylord how he did his Guilliman's man-face.
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Aug 17, 2016 01:48
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random stuff Skaven Warlord   Grey Seer   man with drank   Mantic Bulldog  Two-handed weapon guy 
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Aug 17, 2016 01:50
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Mine's in a tiny blue-and white can and says "dullcote" on the tag. But I think that might be the store tag.
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Aug 17, 2016 01:53
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 Feeling waaay better about the head now (I have no idea why this phone makes it look so muddy and gross though). I could have done a better job on removing seamlines, I know. If anyone has any obvious critiques like "those colors are horrendous" or "those arms look less filthy and more 'i had no idea what to use' " i'd appreciate them. Otherwise I'm finished interrupting posts of nice clean models with my ugly stuff 
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Aug 17, 2016 03:04
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WIP on the Fallen Frontiers Ares miniatures from the boxed game I got via Kickstarter. Also WIP on the Riff for the same game. 
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Aug 17, 2016 03:09
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I bought a wet pallet at Guiry's today while I was picking up some stuff for my upcoming painting class. How much better is my life about to get?
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Aug 17, 2016 03:34
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Do you airbrush? If so, not a whole lot. Do you blend with brushes? If so, your life is about to get a whooole lot better
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Aug 17, 2016 03:39
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Neurolimal posted:
I think either a darker/redder? wash on the arms or going back and picking out the spikes would go a long way. The arms are huge and look kind of same-y.
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Aug 17, 2016 03:49
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BULBASAUR posted:Do you airbrush? If so, not a whole lot. I don't airbrush because I have no means of ventilation and my housemate would murder me. I'm just a slow rear end painter (for both model painting and fine arts) and saw a wet pallet at Guiry's for $11, so why not?
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Aug 17, 2016 03:50
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These guys really really need some more depth - they are uniformly dull with only the highest of highlights on their armor popping even remotely. I would really really appreciate advice on how to spruce them up: I'm thinking of keeping the armor dark, but using a couple of layers of highlighting on the skin and non-armor. In the past though, this has ended up chalky rather than brilliant. Again, please help!
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Aug 17, 2016 11:28
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Does anyone have a good guide to weathering vehicles, specifically with paint only and not using weathering powders? I have a boatload of post apocalyptic cars to paint painting things that are not shiny and new is not something I usually do for vehicles.
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Aug 17, 2016 15:40
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Nebalebadingdong posted:random stuff
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Aug 17, 2016 15:44
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berzerkmonkey posted:Is that a converted Dark Emissary from the Storm of Chaos campaign? From the Albion campaign even! Good times, those.
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Aug 17, 2016 15:50
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berzerkmonkey posted:Is that a converted Dark Emissary from the Storm of Chaos campaign? Indeed. One of my favorite models
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Aug 17, 2016 16:24
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If I use the Umber Paint + White Spirits technique on my Iron Warriors, what do I seal them with afterward?
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Aug 17, 2016 21:21
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Give them time for the solvent to evaporate (a day or two), then varnish as normal.
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Aug 17, 2016 21:28
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PantsOptional posted:If I use the Umber Paint + White Spirits technique on my Iron Warriors, what do I seal them with afterward? I usually give it about a day, then hit it with matte varnish so I can continue painting as normal.
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Aug 17, 2016 23:22
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I use brush-on varnishes and while I like the gloss from Liquitex the matte seems way too thick and goopy, and it leaves behind an almost milky layer, dulls colors too much etc. Is there a better matte or am I doing something horribly wrong? I'm not thinning it with water (label says not to) and I'm brushing for any excess with a second dry brush. And I have a follow-up: I use cheapo brushes for varnishing of course but after a batch of models they get stiff from the varnish and rinsing them out thoroughly after using doesn't make it better. Only thing I've found that really works is a soak in simple green which I know is terrible for the brushes but they're poo poo anyway. Again: what am I doing that's stupid and bad?
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Aug 17, 2016 23:45
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FireSight posted:From the Albion campaign even! Good times, those. Derp, yeah. Nebalebadingdong posted:Indeed. One of my favorite models
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Aug 18, 2016 01:12
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head58 posted:I use brush-on varnishes and while I like the gloss from Liquitex the matte seems way too thick and goopy, and it leaves behind an almost milky layer, dulls colors too much etc. Is there a better matte or am I doing something horribly wrong? I'm not thinning it with water (label says not to) and I'm brushing for any excess with a second dry brush. I use the Liquitex Matte and I dilute it with water, so far I haven't ruined any models by doing that. I use a 50/50 mix and only very rarely do I feel the need to add a second coat. Have you tried Pink Soap? Might be cheaper alternatives but I have a bottle and it seems to work fine for me.
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Aug 18, 2016 01:22
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GoodBee posted:I think either a darker/redder? wash on the arms or going back and picking out the spikes would go a long way. The arms are huge and look kind of same-y. I'm glad I listened to your post; I did both, and I'm really liking the result:  The wash I settled on a darkish red (applied a bit too heavily, but I like the transition from orange of the arms to the red claws), and when that dryed I liberally drybrushed some yellowish white over the spikes and raised edges; I feel like the end result does a solid job of imitating that look of aquatic exoskeletons that have been dried out. Also, a half-decent pic of the head's colors! Hooray!
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Aug 18, 2016 01:47
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I sort of slowed down on painting recently, so I figured I'd make myself paint more by doing some random Reaper Bones minis I had lying around. Painted up three spooky skeletons, they are 2 spooky 4 me. The other two (blurry in the background) look basically the same with some different color choices.  Painted this random lady. I don't know her name. I mostly use these minis with the Iron Kingdoms RPG that I sometimes play with friends, but I have no current plans to actually USE these guys for anything. Still, wanted to get 'em painted anyway. Fairly pleased with the results. Glad that I'm not completely incompetent at painting little dudes. I'm still pretty slow, though.
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Aug 18, 2016 12:43
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head58 posted:I use brush-on varnishes and while I like the gloss from Liquitex the matte seems way too thick and goopy, and it leaves behind an almost milky layer, dulls colors too much etc. Is there a better matte or am I doing something horribly wrong? I'm not thinning it with water (label says not to) and I'm brushing for any excess with a second dry brush. Like the other goon said, dilute them. Better yet, buy them in a can. I've always found varnishing much more effective when delivered via airbrush or aerosol can. I've brushed on matte before, but it's a lot of effort because you have to be super careful it doesn't pool (even diluted) since that will give you the milkiness. That's the stuff added to give the 'matte' appearance when dry. Brushed on gloss is fine, since it doesn't have any additives that cause problems when it goes on thick.
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Aug 18, 2016 13:38
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Just in case there's any other Irish goons, Prince August is doing 20% off all their paints, including the 1 euro ones.
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Aug 18, 2016 21:30
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So I'm trying to make an ink wash to match this video, but it's in german and I don't know what the gently caress. When it says Ink + White Spirits, is that basically Future, or do I need to buy more stupid art supplies that I'll use once a year? Video is linked to the proper time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo3M1U0Nwl0&t=166s Edit: Also, is airbrush advice now basically the same as in the OP? Painting this tank made me want to kill myself, and now I want an airbrush. Dimo ArKacho fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 21:05
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Dimo ArKacho posted:So I'm trying to make an ink wash to match this video, but it's in german and I don't know what the gently caress. When it says Ink + White Spirits, is that basically Future, or do I need to buy more stupid art supplies that I'll use once a year? That looks like an oil wash and not ink. I think Lukas Studio black is an oil paint, and white spirits is the same as odorless mineral spirits in the US. Oil washes are awesome and cheap as gently caress. You should do them.
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Aug 19, 2016 21:21
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dexefiend posted:That looks like an oil wash and not ink. I think Lukas Studio black is an oil paint, and white spirits is the same as odorless mineral spirits in the US. Welp. Maybe if I'd googled that poo poo I'd know that. Cool. That seems easy enough.
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Aug 19, 2016 21:25
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Dimo ArKacho posted:So I'm trying to make an ink wash to match this video, but it's in german and I don't know what the gently caress. When it says Ink + White Spirits, is that basically Future, or do I need to buy more stupid art supplies that I'll use once a year? White spirits is mineral turpentine. I assume he's using an oil based ink, so it's basically an oil wash. It's good stuff for things like tanks and such. I bought a set of cheap oil colors in tubes and a bottle of turpentine, so now I'm pretty much set for life. Edit: Efb.
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Aug 19, 2016 21:25
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Electric Hobo posted:White spirits is mineral turpentine. I assume he's using an oil based ink, so it's basically an oil wash. It's good stuff for things like tanks and such. Yeah, I'm actually painting that exact tank and I'm really loving that dirty look he's getting, so I figured I'd try to replicate it.
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Aug 19, 2016 23:09
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WIP on the Scale 75, Fallen Frontiers, Riff hero, Sihlas Fenn.
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Aug 20, 2016 02:46
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dr_ether posted:WIP on the Scale 75, Fallen Frontiers, Riff hero, Sihlas Fenn. Holy balls that is pretty. I have the Riffs and Sayx and they have some of the best designed-for-painting models I have seen.
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Aug 20, 2016 04:51
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dr_ether posted:WIP on the Scale 75, Fallen Frontiers, Riff hero, Sihlas Fenn. God drat. This is really great. How did you do the base and pants? I really like that rich reddish brown color you've got going.
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Aug 20, 2016 05:01
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BULBASAUR posted:God drat. This is really great. How did you do the base and pants? I really like that rich reddish brown color you've got going. The base was done using the Vallejo Brown Earth texture paint. Then a base coat of P3 Bloodstone, and a dry brush of Scale 75 Mars Orange. The trousers were airbrushed, with zenithal priming, a base colour of Vallejo Model Air Mahagony, and highlighted using Vallejo Game Color Leather Brown. There will be some final highlights and shades just to push the contrast. I want a good tan colour. I have finished the Ares and will have photos up later, and I have today done the base colours for the Sayx.
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Aug 20, 2016 18:38
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I trying out 15mm stuff. I find it's good for learning new techniques. My first NMM  
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Aug 20, 2016 20:23
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Finished Fallen Frontiers, Ares starter faction.
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Aug 21, 2016 00:27
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