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I'm considering ditching my canon gear and getting an x-t2. I have an x100t which I love. However, I shoot a lot of extreme macro with an mp-e 65mm and I'm wondering how I can keep using that lens and keep automatic aperture control. It's a MF lens, so AF doesn't matter, but I need aperture control. I shoot a night with modeling lights, and nailing critical focus at 3:1 is hard enough with the lens wide open through a OVF. It looks like there is no way to get aperture control on a canon lens adapted to fuji. Is that correct? I may need to keep a canon body just for that lens.
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Aug 18, 2016 17:20
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You can't, afaik Fuji cameras only talk to Fuji lenses. [e]It's largely the market share isn't big enough for people to go to the bother of reverse engineering the mount/systems and Fuji are secretive about their stuff. Saros fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Aug 18, 2016 |
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Aug 18, 2016 17:59
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It's be weird if there wasn't. There are ef adaptors with electronic aperture control for most other mirrorless systems. Edit: ^^^^ well that sucks The poster asking about a7s vs a7r reminded me of something I've been thinking about. I've been eyeing a Panasonic gx85 or gh3, along with one of the not-panaleica lumix telephoto zooms, for some good quality wildlife video projects. This would complement the OM-D I use for stills. But I also have this much more expensive idea, of being able to potentially get good video in bright moonlight with an a7sii. Being able to capture wildlife action at night would be awesome. Too bad Sony makes nothing like e.g. the Nikon 200-500. The gmaster 70-200 w/ 2x TC is still too much of a compromise. Where this is all going is a question that'll probably fall into the void unless there's someone here with experience using both cameras, but does the a7rii basically match the sii in low-light video performance? I ask because I like the idea of having more resolution for cropping down to compensate in some way for lack of optical magnification, but is that as effective with video as it is with still photography, or does the image quality suffer too much?
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Aug 18, 2016 18:35
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SMERSH Mouth posted:does the a7rii basically match the sii in low-light video performance? No, my understanding is this is the main trade-off of the sensor on the a7r ii.
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Aug 18, 2016 18:38
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Graniteman posted:I'm considering ditching my canon gear and getting an x-t2. I have an x100t which I love. However, I shoot a lot of extreme macro with an mp-e 65mm and I'm wondering how I can keep using that lens and keep automatic aperture control. It's a MF lens, so AF doesn't matter, but I need aperture control. I shoot a night with modeling lights, and nailing critical focus at 3:1 is hard enough with the lens wide open through a OVF. It looks like there is no way to get aperture control on a canon lens adapted to fuji. Is that correct? I may need to keep a canon body just for that lens. I use a Kipon adapter that has an aperture blades inside to use my EOS macro lens on my XT1. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3348013
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Aug 19, 2016 03:52
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I've wondered about those. They're sold as a kind of cheaper option as an adapter for ef->e mount as well. Besides the fact that I guess you have to manually stop it down, are there any image quality consequences for having the aperture behind the rear element?
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Aug 19, 2016 17:00
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I've wondered about those. They're sold as a kind of cheaper option as an adapter for ef->e mount as well. Besides the fact that I guess you have to manually stop it down, are there any image quality consequences for having the aperture behind the rear element? Not that I've noticed, and I think there shouldn't be anyway, since it's not like it's another optical element for light to pass through. it's just shaping the light rays.
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Aug 20, 2016 00:44
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alkanphel posted:Not that I've noticed, and I think there shouldn't be anyway, since it's not like it's another optical element for light to pass through. it's just shaping the light rays. Yeah, depending on the # of blades you'll get different shaped ~*bOkEh*~ when you stop down, but 
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Aug 20, 2016 00:56
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C mount lenses usually have aperture blades at the rear. On small sensor cameras C mount lenses are also fun because they usually have tons of blades (making very spherical bokeh shapes) except they are usually pitched, not flat, and not level with the focal plane because they are cheaply constructed, so all the out of focus areas look swirly like a funhouse mirror.
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Aug 20, 2016 05:30
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I've wondered about those. They're sold as a kind of cheaper option as an adapter for ef->e mount as well. Besides the fact that I guess you have to manually stop it down, are there any image quality consequences for having the aperture behind the rear element? Changing the position of the aperture can have some really bizarre effects (like inverting perspective), although it's probably not an issue in cases like this. As windex mentioned, some lenses are designed to have the aperture after the rear element - I have a couple of old 300mm lenses that are set up that way. I found this forum post an interesting read about how aperture position can change things, if you're interested.
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Aug 20, 2016 08:48
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As most people know, Photokina is in a month or so. I have a question for everyone. I still shoot with a base A7 (love the thing), and I am wondering. IF the A9/A7 III is announced like the rumor mill suggests, will A7II prices fall? The IBIS for adapted lenses is attractive. Also, other rumors (like a G-Master 16-35), aside, what do you all think of the current round of rumors (A9/A7III) that are starting to leak.
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Aug 20, 2016 19:13
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Out of 790 photos shot at a wedding today, 190 of them were with the 90mm f/2. I am definitely buying one of these things. 
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Aug 21, 2016 08:46
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8th-snype posted:Out of 790 photos shot at a wedding today, 190 of them were with the 90mm f/2. I am definitely buying one of these things. im the guy rope going through the lady's head 
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Aug 21, 2016 08:58
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Pompous Rhombus posted:im the guy rope going through the lady's head You try shooting a wedding ceremony on a dock with a hundred people and a band on it. You run out of places to stand fast. At least i minimized the number of sailboat masts growing out of people's heads.
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Aug 21, 2016 09:04
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Pompous Rhombus posted:im the guy rope going through the lady's head Meh, shouldn't be that hard to get rid off with the fill tool.
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Aug 21, 2016 13:39
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Any OM-D users in here want to weigh in on their color output? I've shot a lot with my E-M10 and find that I thought the colors looked great SOOC most of the time, especially in broad daylight, but I'm finding things to seem a little odd lately. It's been overcast and rainy here. I've never calibrated my macbook's monitor with a colormunki or anything, but I'm finding the issue to be present both when looking at photos my computer and when reviewing them on the rear LCD or EVF of the camera itself. I think the output looks too pink, at the expense of yellow tones. Or to put it another way, yellows seem tinted with red/pink. I've tried all sorts of different combinations of Magenta/Green and Amber/Blue color balance adjustment in-camera, every kind of WB settings including custom settings, along with turning 'Keep Warm Color' on and off, and I just can't get yellows to look 'natural'. Kicking up Green at the expense of Magenta and/or Blue for Amber, I can remove the tint, but that cools the entire image and washes out the yellow. Here's an example.  This substrate is decomposed granite. The upper and lower shots are from the camera, with auto WB/default CB on the top (which is super pink/red) and as close as I can get to 'natural' color with in-camera settings (still a little warm and puts a yellow cast on everything) on the bottom. In between is how the substrate appeared to me in real life. My 35mm film camera has been in the shop, so I've been walking around with the OM-D for the past few cloudy days and just about every photo I've taken has looked unnaturally pink/red/magenta. I can use the Hue slider in ACR/Lightroom to reduce the effect, but that's a lot of work for snapshots going to my Instagram. Is it at all possible that there is a sensor calibration issue or maybe a problem with the sensor hardware itself? Or is this just how it is with Oly cameras?
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Aug 22, 2016 03:55
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8th-snype posted:You'll find mostly Fuji suggestions here because this thread is like 90% Fujichat. I don't know much about Sony's wireless connectivity but I can tell you that Fuji's is a little temperamental, sometimes it takes a couple of trys to get the android app to sync to my phone, yet the SP1 has zero issues so it's not a camera issue. If you are looking at Fuji I'd toss in the XE-2 as an option, with the firmware 4.00 I think it probably equals or beats the XT-10 performance wise. You can pick one up for six or seven hundred bucks on ebay which would give you enough left over in your budget to buy another lens or a flash or a bunch of booze. You may also want to expand your search into looking at Olympia's OMD series, they are super popular with a few posters around here. Thank you for the suggestion. I got a used xe-2 and a 35 f2. So far everything is working well. We're going to sequoia next week and I am thinking, trying to get pictures of big tree's in the background, we're going to be handcuffed without something wider. Should I get that "kit" lens? Or is there another option that would be good? What about that 18-135? Hdip fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 05:10
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There's a Samyang 12mm/f2 manual lens which is pretty good if you want superwide. The wide fuji primes are also good but very pricey, same for the wide angle zoom. The 18-55 is probably your best bet even if it duplicates the 35mm length. I dunno about the 18-135 but have heard its okay but like all zooms like that suffers a bit.
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Aug 22, 2016 09:56
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Anyone have experience with the metabones Canon EF -> Sony E on an A7R II?
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Aug 22, 2016 18:14
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Thoogsby posted:Anyone have experience with the metabones Canon EF -> Sony E on an A7R II? If you have Sigma EF lenses, consider the Sigma MC-11 adapter, it fixes otherwise slow AF with the metabones adapter. Otherwise, its just slow (compared to 5D3). I rented a a7r ii and borrowed the metabones adapter, and a buddy has the MC-11 on his a7r ii now and it's much better. Sigma lenses need firmware upgrades for the MC-11, but thats DIY with the USB dock.
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Aug 22, 2016 19:09
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No Sigma lenses, just looking to hold onto my 135 f/2L if possible.
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Aug 22, 2016 19:16
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Thoogsby posted:No Sigma lenses, just looking to hold onto my 135 f/2L if possible. I have one of those, due to the 1 meter minimum focus distance it's tolerable with the metabones even with contrast AF. But, not instant lock like it is on a DSLR.
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Aug 22, 2016 20:34
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Thoogsby posted:No Sigma lenses, just looking to hold onto my 135 f/2L if possible. I have the MkIII copy of the E-EF Metabones, and it works decently enough with my L series lenses. I was actually surprised how well my 70-200 played with it, focused fast enough for me except when something was charging at me wickedly fast. The metabones mostly lives on my A7II, I have mostly Canon glass after my switch from the DSLR body. Depending on what I'm shooting, I'm manually focusing a lot of the time, just because I like the control and it fits with how I shoot (coming from a cinema background). I believe the MkIV is even better for all around focusing and such, but I don't have any experience with it.
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Aug 22, 2016 22:37
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Like a few others, I'm planning on moving from a Canon 6D to some sort of mirrorless set up to hopefully encourage me to carry my camera around more often. Looking at the Fujis (thanks thread), and leaning towards either the XT1 (or xt2 i guess) or XT10, but curious about the size difference. Any features I'd miss with the cheaper XT10? Pretty much shoot exclusively in the 17-50 range on my Canon - assuming there's a comparable zoom lens w/ prime-ish qualities for the Fuji?
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Aug 24, 2016 04:39
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ScooterMcTiny posted:Pretty much shoot exclusively in the 17-50 range on my Canon - assuming there's a comparable zoom lens w/ prime-ish qualities for the Fuji? There is, it's the XF 16-55/2.8.
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Aug 24, 2016 09:00
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If you're worried about price the 16-55 may not be the lens for you however. It's also fairly bulky (still smaller than equivalent DSLR lenses).
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Aug 24, 2016 12:22
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Forget the 16-55, for multiple reasons: 1. Yes, it opens to f/2.8. So does the (less than $300, used) kit lens at 18mm. 2. No OIS. 3. 16-55 is $900+ used or new. Kit is $300 or less used. $600 buys you some NICE Fuji primes. And stellar primes are really what Fuji are known for. 4. The extra stop of light handling on the 16-55 might appear to be desirable for low light shooting, but in reality the X-Trans sensor has ridiculously low, almost non-existent color noise compared to crop body Canon sensors. As in, ISO 12800 has color noise like ISO 3200 on a Canon crop body. So instead of buying a faster lens, just increase your ISO.
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Aug 24, 2016 12:36
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Guys, he has a 6D, which is full frame. He'd have to look at the 10-24 (at f4) just to equiv a ∼16-35, and maybe into adapters if he wants one lens to cover that fov on Fuji.
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Aug 24, 2016 12:40
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Ah yes, you're right. I saw the 17-50 range and immediately thought crop because there aren't any great full-frame lenses that zoom that range. The only way to get that range without switching lenses all the time is going to be 2x XT-1 or X-T10 bodies, one with the 10-24 mounted and the other with the 16-55, 18-55, 35 f2 or f1.4.
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Aug 24, 2016 13:03
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To be honest, I spend most of my time at the 40-50mm range on full frame anyways, so looks like kit + a couple primes might be the way to go. Thanks guys!
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Aug 24, 2016 14:52
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The XF 18-55 f/2.8-4 is hardly a kit lens compared to what you mormally think of when you say kit lens. It's build and IQ are on par with Fuji's primes and the OIS is also very good. Basically its a stealthy premium lens, the XC 16-50 f/3.5-5 is the real 'kit' lens with the usual features you'd expect from them. Sharpness results for both. It's basically as good as the 16-55 (3x the price) except for wide open in the center. http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x/971-fuji1655f28?start=1 http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x/783-fuji1855f284?start=1 Anyway Fuji lower level lenses continue to impress me. The XC 50-230 I picked up for £100 will get a proper whirl as im off on holiday for a couple of weeks but initial impressions are remarkably good. It's a little weak in the corners from about 135mm-200mm but then oddly seems to sharpen up at max length?? Saros fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Aug 24, 2016 |
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Aug 24, 2016 15:00
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The only reason I sold my 18-55mm is that I own a prime in every focal length I'd use that is faster, it's scary good regarding IQ.
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Aug 24, 2016 15:02
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Thoogsby posted:No Sigma lenses, just looking to hold onto my 135 f/2L if possible. It works great with the latest firmware on Sony body and metabones iv adapter. If anything I'd say that it works better than native canon bodies due to the fact that it can recognize faces and keep them in focus better than some random points on the AF module. Same goes with using 35 1.4 ii and especially 85 1.2 ii on the Sony 
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Aug 24, 2016 18:11
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Fuji announced the 23mm f/2 WR. http://petapixel.com/2016/08/25/fuji-announces-new-entry-level-x-a3-camera-rugged-23mm-f2-lens/ So this is what a lot of y'all been waiting for, right?
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Aug 25, 2016 21:58
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Wow, I ordered one of those cheap $20 grips for my E-M10 and it really makes a huge difference. It's so nice to have something to wrap your fingers around again. When I switched from Canon DSLRs to Olympus the grip was really the only thing I missed.
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Aug 25, 2016 22:05
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hi liter posted:Fuji announced the 23mm f/2 WR. Pre-production review + samples: https://jonasraskphotography.com/2016/08/25/23-and-2-a-small-look-at-the-fujifilm-xf-23mm-f2-wr/
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Aug 25, 2016 22:45
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Definitely adding that 23mm f/2 to my pack. For some reason I thought they already announced that though.
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Aug 26, 2016 01:22
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Choicecut posted:Definitely adding that 23mm f/2 to my pack. For some reason I thought they already announced that though.
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Aug 26, 2016 01:50
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Sorry for such a basic question but I have spent a few nights trying to figure this out and even am failing in Google. How do I customize the info on the screen during image playback on an X-T1? Is that option actually not available? Just "information on" or information off" or "detail information"?
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Aug 26, 2016 04:45
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hi liter posted:Fuji announced the 23mm f/2 WR. Eh. I already have the 23mm f/1.4 which is one of my favorite lenses. Though the f/2 is appreciably smaller and lighter than the f/1.4, I would have liked it to have been more of a pancake like the 18mm. Maybe I need to get one in my hands to appreciate the difference but I see no reason to get it since I already have the f/1.4. I think I'll just save up for a used X100T instead.
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Aug 26, 2016 05:30
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