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Cage posted:This will be my only set, like I said I will be getting rid of the ones on there as they are undersized. Otherwise I wouldn't be asking about how well snow tires do in the summer. Sounds like you got it all figured out.
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Aug 19, 2016 18:34
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Safety Dance posted:Sounds like you got it all figured out.
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Aug 19, 2016 18:40
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More snow tire chat. Gonna get some winter tires for my 16 wrx, but wondering the best TPMS solution. Would prefer to be able to swap in the driveway, but it seems that with TPMS I will have to take them to a shop. My cars inspection is up in March, so having the light on will be an issue that the state will care about. Can they clone the new sensors so the car will not know the difference?
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Aug 19, 2016 18:53
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I dont have any cars with TPMS, but why not get an inspection now and then switch tires? If your inspection costs the same as NY ($21) then you'll only be losing out on $12.25 worth of inspection time.
Cage fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 19:03
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Cage posted:I dont have any cars with TPMS, but why not get an inspection now and then switch tires? If your inspection costs the same as NY ($21) then you'll only be losing out on $12.25 worth of inspection time. Excellent point, it's $16 here, so probably worth it if it saves me the $140 in TPMS nonsense. Edit: VA does not care after all. So no TPMS for me. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 19:13
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I want a very specific configuration of a 2017 Toyota Tacoma. The new model years are just rolling onto dealerships now. I've been searching via various search sites (cars.com, autotrader) and running the VINs through some Toyota vin decoder but generally I'm wondering... What is the best strategy for getting a very specific build of a car? Should I use the Toyota website and build and do a quote? Seems pretty useless, I'm just expecting to get more dickhole sales emails trying to get me to buy whatever bullshit they have. I tried approaching (in person) a dealership and giving them the specs I wanted but they only seemed interested in selling me whatever they randomly decide to order for their lot which undoubtedly will have tons of poo poo I don't want. Running VIN seems to be the closest to remotely useful but it doesn't say things like whether the truck has a long or short bed, options, etc. For example, some options make modifications to the body of the truck, which I do not want. The listings that end up on these inventory search sites suck, they never seem to take a loving picture of the window sticker which would tell me what I want to know. Another question I have is, if I do find one and contact dealer and it's perfect, is flying out to pick up a car insane? Seems like it might be the only way unless I can find a local dealer that is willing to place a factory order for me.
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Aug 19, 2016 20:04
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Air vents have been blowing out a stale smell. I ordered a new air filter, but in the meantime thought I could fix the smell by rinsing out my air filter. Now I'm reading that a wet air filter can cause serious damage to my engine. How should I proceed from here? (I have to drive somewhere in the morning.)
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Aug 20, 2016 04:51
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resting bort face posted:Air vents have been blowing out a stale smell. I ordered a new air filter, but in the meantime thought I could fix the smell by rinsing out my air filter. Cabin air filter has nothing to do with the engine air filter. That said, it's probably not great for the cabin air filter to be damp (maybe it'll get mildewy?) but it won't have any effect on the engine. If changing the cabin air filter doesn't fix your smell, you might look into the drains for the A/C evaporator, since water can pool up in there and get all gross if the drains are clogged.
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Aug 20, 2016 04:58
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Raluek posted:Cabin air filter has nothing to do with the engine air filter. Thanks for this info, appreciate it
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Aug 20, 2016 05:04
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resting bort face posted:Air vents have been blowing out a stale smell. I ordered a new air filter, but in the meantime thought I could fix the smell by rinsing out my air filter. do you have a local advaned pep-zone-napa store around? A new cabin air filter may cost you 5's of dollars.. possibly up to 3 of these 5's of dollars.
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Aug 20, 2016 05:23
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Looking for a recommendation on Spark Plug Wire Set & Spark Plugs for a 1998 Cadillac Deville 4.6L . I was about to fire away on ngk iridium and the most expensive AC DELCO wire set but then I looked at the other twelve wire sets available on rockauto that go from $15 up to the $87 I was about to blow.
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Aug 20, 2016 08:43
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Buy whatever metal it came with. If it came with iridiums, get iridiums. Platinum? Get plats. Don't get this dumb poo poo multi-electrode garbage unless it came with dual electrodes (I doubt it).
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Aug 20, 2016 08:59
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Noticed the fuel economy is getting noticeably worse in my 1992 Bluebird with the SR20DE. I was seeing 500 to 550km a tank previously, but I'm seeing more like 350-400 these days. I gave the airflow sensor a clean but I'm wondering if the injectors might be hosed. Any thoughts?
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Aug 20, 2016 09:22
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Two Finger posted:Noticed the fuel economy is getting noticeably worse in my 1992 Bluebird with the SR20DE. Could it be a bad O2 sensor?
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Aug 20, 2016 09:37
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How would one go about checking that?
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Aug 20, 2016 10:36
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Cage posted:This will be my only set, like I said I will be getting rid of the ones on there as they are undersized. Otherwise I wouldn't be asking about how well snow tires do in the summer. They wear faster and perform significantly worse than summer tires. So it's a waste of money and a bigger risk. I'd get a second set of rims and put the best you can afford of each type on each set. It's cheap insurance.
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Aug 20, 2016 21:50
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Junkyards and craigslist can net you steel wheels for like $25/pop, too.
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Aug 20, 2016 22:07
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Geirskogul posted:Junkyards and craigslist can net you steel wheels for like $25/pop, too. JYs are the best for cheap wheels. We just got a set for a buddy's winter wheels on a half off day and paid $46 for all four.
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Aug 20, 2016 23:02
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bolind posted:BMW E87LCI, so, rear wheel drive. Trying to get the driver's side axle out, didn't succeed. What should I try? How much do you care about your wheel bearing? Cause a blowtorch, penetrating fluid and a great deal of violence tend to work pretty well for that.
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Aug 21, 2016 04:58
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liquidfire posted:Looking for a recommendation on Spark Plug Wire Set & Spark Plugs for a 1998 Cadillac Deville 4.6L . I was about to fire away on ngk iridium and the most expensive AC DELCO wire set but then I looked at the other twelve wire sets available on rockauto that go from $15 up to the $87 I was about to blow. NGK makes a lot of the OEM plugs for GM. Like Godholio said, go for whatever type it originally came with - pretty sure that would be platinum for you. Go for NGK or AC Delco for the plugs, whichever is cheaper or has a mail in rebate (they'll probably be the same plug aside from the name on them). Were it my car, I'd probably go with Delphi or Denso wires out of all the ones listed on Rockauto. Delphi probably made the original wires.
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Aug 21, 2016 04:59
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I can check Monday what the OEM plug is. Overall for plugs, get NGK or Denso. Bosch if you have to but not champion and never ever anyone else. AC Delco, Motorcraft, etc are all rebranded OEM plugs. Iridium may not be necessary on such an old engine for performance and it may not last 100k miles for the durability to be worth it.
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Aug 21, 2016 06:14
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I went with Standard for the wire set per my cousins recommendation (bumper to bumper parts man) and the delco plat plugs which were recommended on "the" cadillac forum.
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Aug 21, 2016 07:14
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totalnewbie posted:Iridium may not be necessary on such an old engine for performance and it may not last 100k miles for the durability to be worth it. 4.6 Cadillac engine in a late 90s model? It's a Northstar. He/she is lucky it's survived this long. Fantastic engine, except for that tiny issue with the head studs.  Though the rear plugs are an absolute bitch to do on that engine.
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Aug 21, 2016 09:21
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How would I go about finding out who made the OEM pistons for my 88 Supra?
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Aug 21, 2016 13:45
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FYI basically nobody uses platinum anymore because iridium is cheaper and basically better (except for high temp oxidation but there are Ir alloys that are almost as good).
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Aug 21, 2016 14:22
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some texas redneck posted:4.6 Cadillac engine in a late 90s model? It's a Northstar. He/she is lucky it's survived this long. Meh a ratchet strap makes them not bad at all. I'm looking at a 5spd c1500 today and other then the cab corners and fenders where else might I look for more rust?
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Aug 21, 2016 16:17
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First of all, thank you to everyone that keeps answering my annoying questions. They're all helpful! Second, my rear view mirror mount is completely different than others I've seen. It looks like it's only attached at the outer ring. The entire middle portion doesn't have glue residue, and neither does the windshield where it was attached. I want to remove the outer ring and attach only that so I don't risk getting the entire thing covered in glue, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to disassemble this. I can't even find any good posts or videos. The best thing I've found is some guy with a Jag that has a similar looking attachment, and there's not much hope in that thread (http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/rearview-mirror-re-attachment-05-s-type-161533/). Is anyone familiar with this type of mount at all?  
The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 17:32
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The Wonder Weapon posted:First of all, thank you to everyone that keeps answering my annoying questions. They're all helpful! That's a fairly typical mount for things with sensors in the mirror mount. There is no reason to disassemble it, and it likely isn't intended to be disassembled. If you use enough gle to get it all over everything it's not going to stay up there more than a few weeks anyway. Less is more here. Prep well, use very little glue, have tape ready to hold it in place for a few hours.
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Aug 21, 2016 18:13
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Motronic posted:That's a fairly typical mount for things with sensors in the mirror mount. That's the rain sensor for the wipers, right? I've been thoroughly unimpressed with how poorly it scales wiper speed to the weather, so if it stops working, that's fine. Scraped, alcohol'd, and taped. Here's hoping. Back to the other project I'm trying to tackle - headliner repair. (I knocked the rear view mirror off while pulling the card out.) I've scraped off most of the foam, but the board is still quite sticky. I tried a few drops of isopropyl alcohol but that seems like it's going to dissolve the board entirely, so no more of that. Do you fully need to remove the old adhesive on something like this anyways? All of the articles/videos I watch about replacing a headliner talk about rubbing the foam off, but none seem to address getting it down to no-longer-sticky conditions. Here's where my card is at this point. You can see there's an orange film over the surface, and it's sticky to the touch, but there's not really much foam left (except in a few spots I need to touch up). Do I need to get this cleaner, and if so, what's the ideal chemical? I accomplished what I did with a plastic bristle carpet brush drill attachment (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).  
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Aug 21, 2016 22:05
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Back to the other project I'm trying to tackle - headliner repair. (I knocked the rear view mirror off while pulling the card out.) I've scraped off most of the foam, but the board is still quite sticky. I tried a few drops of isopropyl alcohol but that seems like it's going to dissolve the board entirely, so no more of that. Do you fully need to remove the old adhesive on something like this anyways? All of the articles/videos I watch about replacing a headliner talk about rubbing the foam off, but none seem to address getting it down to no-longer-sticky conditions. Being that I only have on under my belt.......from my limited experience it seems that having the adhesive on there is just fine, providing you are using a compatible adhesive. My biggest problem was probable using TOO MUCH spray adhesive when I was putting the material down (yet another less is more situation), because I had some spots that are dented.....i.e. picked up adhesive into the foam and sank. So it's a fine line between having it stick as well as how much pressure you use to roll it out. I went in the wrong direction with that it seems. Were I to do it again (and I probably will) I'd lightly-to medium dust the card and new foam with adhesive, let both flash dry and then apply with fairly minimal pressure. And probably go back in a few hours to re-roll.
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Aug 22, 2016 00:01
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totalnewbie posted:FYI basically nobody uses platinum anymore because iridium is cheaper and basically better (except for high temp oxidation but there are Ir alloys that are almost as good). I've heard you say this before, so here's my stupid question: if that's true, why are iridium plugs so much more expensive? For example, an NGK TR5GP ($2.49) is the platinum spark plug for an LS motor, and the NGK TR5IX ($6.45) is the iridium.
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Aug 22, 2016 00:26
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Motronic posted:Being that I only have on under my belt.......from my limited experience it seems that having the adhesive on there is just fine, providing you are using a compatible adhesive. My biggest problem was probable using TOO MUCH spray adhesive when I was putting the material down (yet another less is more situation), because I had some spots that are dented.....i.e. picked up adhesive into the foam and sank. So it's a fine line between having it stick as well as how much pressure you use to roll it out. I went in the wrong direction with that it seems. What do you mean, re-roll? Also, what's the purpose of the foam? I don't think the fabric I bought is foam backed, so I'm wondering if I should go to Jo-Ann and pick up a foam roll too.
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Aug 22, 2016 00:36
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The Wonder Weapon posted:What do you mean, re-roll? You use a foam roller (something like this as well as a larger one depending on size/bends) to put in on so that you (hopefully) don't crush it into the adhesive. When I say re-roll I mean lightly doing the same thing again with your foam roller a few hours later. The Wonder Weapon posted:Also, what's the purpose of the foam? I don't think the fabric I bought is foam backed, so I'm wondering if I should go to Jo-Ann and pick up a foam roll too. Then you bought the wrong stuff. I know for a fact the JoAnns around here has proper headliner material (limited colors, limited widths). "Proper" meaning whatever on the pretty side with foam bonded to the back. I know people have used straight fabric on headliners, but that's not the way any OEM does it as far as I've seen. It's all fabric+foam bonded. As I'm not an auto upholsterer I just go with what I see being used commonly. I'm sure you can get away with strait fabric, but good luck keeping the glue from, gushing through. You're also losing sound deadening.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:02
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Raluek posted:I've heard you say this before, so here's my stupid question: if that's true, why are iridium plugs so much more expensive? For example, an NGK TR5GP ($2.49) is the platinum spark plug for an LS motor, and the NGK TR5IX ($6.45) is the iridium. Because iridium is roughly 10x rarer than platinum, and most of what we can get from the planet's crust came from asteroids.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:26
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Motronic posted:You use a foam roller (something like this as well as a larger one depending on size/bends) to put in on so that you (hopefully) don't crush it into the adhesive. When I say re-roll I mean lightly doing the same thing again with your foam roller a few hours later. Gotcha on the roller. I'll pick one up. I saw there there was "headliner fabric," but I haven't noticed a difference in sounds levels pre and post-headliner in the car. Then I managed to find some end-of-roll ultrasuede for a great price so I grabbed that with the intention of using a separate layer of foam if necessary. That would help with the sound, though I guess it doesn't address the potential glue-gushing issue.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:30
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Godholio posted:Because iridium is roughly 10x rarer than platinum Yep Godholio posted:most of what we can get from the planet's crust came from asteroids. Nahh. It's mostly a by product of mining orthomagmatic nickel deposits which are mantle-derived. Iridium doesn't have any known mechanism of hydrothermal mobility, so impact-related Ir in the crust (most of which has only been around for 65 million years) has no real way of concentrating enough to form deposits. [ASK] me about the things I wrote my Master's dissertation on.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:34
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88h88 posted:How would I go about finding out who made the OEM pistons for my 88 Supra? Have they got any casting markings on them anywhere? Look carefully.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:47
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Godholio posted:Because iridium is roughly 10x rarer than platinum Okay, then how can it be that "iridium is cheaper and basically better"?
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Aug 22, 2016 03:05
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Re: headliners. Where do you find the stuff to actually match your original headliner? Joann's has like, black, white, and tan. My car has tan, but a visibly much darker shade than they have.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:37
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Javid posted:Re: headliners. Where do you find the stuff to actually match your original headliner? Joann's has like, black, white, and tan. My car has tan, but a visibly much darker shade than they have. Can you find a vinyl dye in a matching color? You could apply a white headliner and then spray the dye on, might end up with a better match.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:44
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