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RillAkBea posted:I don't think that's how it works dude. 
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Aug 20, 2016 11:45
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Elsa posted:Alright. I have a lifetime alignment deal with Firestone. Is that enough of a check, or am I looking for a place that can pull the frame too. Manager always tries to sell me on air filters and poo poo (oh yeah I'm sure the tech told you it needed a cabin filter. I'm sure he opened the glovebox and saw the extra from the 2-pack in there from where I just replaced it too), and added a tire warranty without asking one time, but that's how shithead managers are I guess.
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Aug 20, 2016 16:22
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Thanks. I'm waiting on my tire install right now and haven't been to Firestone yet. I'll be happy with a basic alignment for now. Here's hoping that's not too much to expect as a walk-in. I got four Yokohamas and their out-the-door price was $830. They were the only tires in stock with curb protectors. I didn't want to hit $800 but I can't stand the balloon look of tires without that lip. edit: got the alignment and I'm on the way to pick up a new set of bulbs for the tail lights. One of them is out. I wasn't sure I'd be able to get the car streetable this weekend, and I'm pleasantly surprised. I start school on Monday full-time and I will be commuting with the Caddy. A shot of the tire look that I like, with the lip of the rim protector. I remember the Goodyear Eagle GTs looking even more square, but I'm okay with these too.   Sometime during the week I will find a new cradle and put it in over the weekend, starting bright and early Friday. The alignment has a very slight pull to it and four new tires are just extra fire under my rear end to get this 100%. My interest in the car is renewed and I suppose I will pick up the fight against automotive entropy, and begin replacing parts I know need to be updated, starting with the motor mounts and then the suspension overall. I'll and then I gave it a wash. I need to go over it again tomorrow.  
Anagram of GINGER fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 20, 2016 17:30
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I've either made the best or worst decision for my pickup. It was still squealing, because of course it was, so I decided to pull the radiator, fan etc and see if it was the pump like I thought. Pulled the pump and started it up briefly and it still sings. Even if I start it with the clutch in and keep it there, still sings. Even with no accessories mounted, still sings. The stethoscope reveals nothing, somehow it seems louder under the truck near the transmission. So I sat there and looked at it. It's already drained of coolant with a bunch of poo poo out of the way. I decided I'm pulling the motor. Unhooked every wire, every hose, removed the bolts on the exhaust which was a real bitch since they weren't studs, and mounted the lift plate. Tomorrow I hit up HF for a crane and a stand, and by noon we'll get started. My best guess is a camshaft bearing right now, since it's constant and changes with RPM, and nothing knocks, but who knows. I hope I get far enough tomorrow to decide if this is worth dealing with, so I can get all the parts ordered.
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Aug 21, 2016 03:29
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Could be a trashed throwout bearing maybe?
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Aug 21, 2016 04:26
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Washed them
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Aug 21, 2016 04:33
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kastein posted:Could be a trashed throwout bearing maybe? Wouldn't that change depending on clutch pedal position? It was making a noise anyway so it needed replaced anyway.
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Aug 21, 2016 05:27
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Biggest job I've ever done, but only because this poor car of mine has lived its entire life on the salty roads of a northern state. Replacing both sway bar things. I feel like this job should have been "unbolt old parts, bolt in new ones" but it turned into cutoff wheel danger. I am not convinced that these Dremel cutoff wheels aren't going to just explode in my face if I load them incorrectly. I tried to keep the 'active' area at the edge, but I definitely skimmed the middle of the disk as evidenced by visibly hot areas. Am I correct to have mortal fear of spiny glowing red hot wheels? Unbolting old parts  old vs new 
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Aug 21, 2016 07:25
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New battery, new clamps, grease smeared on everything
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Aug 21, 2016 23:16
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I just looked at it in annoyance. Head's at an engineering place getting skimmed ready for a nice metal head gasket. Need to strip the bottom and see what's what.
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Aug 21, 2016 23:44
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Engine out. Throwout bearing is chooched for sure, I still don't think that's what would make the squealing noise. I'll take it off proper and see if I can recreate it with a drill though, maybe a grinder. And I knew this motor was greasy but jay-sus it was bad. I spent recovery time just scraping huge hunks of grease off of everything. EVERYTHING. I scooped up 1/8" thick sections off of the frame rails. Any great tips for degreasing something this bad? I also bought the wrong engine stand and the mounting arms are too short, I would have gotten the bigger one but it didn't have any tickets and HF was a poo poo-show. Also I'm cheap and stupid. 
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Aug 22, 2016 01:42
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StormDrain posted:Engine out. Throwout bearing is chooched for sure, I still don't think that's what would make the squealing noise. I'll take it off proper and see if I can recreate it with a drill though, maybe a grinder. see if the arms will reach with the plate rotated the other way. My Harbor Freight engine stand only fits with the horizontal slots on bottom. Or was it the top. I forget. The slots on mine look like this and it makes a difference ___ / \ It was really confusing until I figured this out, because the arms suddenly wouldn't reach.
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Aug 22, 2016 02:56
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Elsa posted:see if the arms will reach with the plate rotated the other way. My Harbor Freight engine stand only fits with the horizontal slots on bottom. Or was it the top. I forget. The slots on mine look like this and it makes a difference Thanks, we actually spent an embarrassing amount of time trying every configuration like it was a drat puzzle and couldn't find an orientation that worked. I was going to take pics and I know slots on top don't work, but couldn't remember why not on bottom. Turns out we have up on it too quick. It's now on the stand.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:28
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StormDrain posted:Thanks, we actually spent an embarrassing amount of time trying every configuration like it was a drat puzzle and couldn't find an orientation that worked. I was going to take pics and I know slots on top don't work, but couldn't remember why not on bottom. Turns out we have up on it too quick. It's now on the stand.  thanks man, made my night.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:48
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 Gonna get some new tires put on today. Gravity bleeding the brakes while the wheels are off. I still can't believe how good all the tires look for being 12 years old. I might keep them in my basement or something. I feel bad throwing them out.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:15
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SperginMcBadposter posted:New battery, new clamps, grease smeared on everything Those are the crap battery terminals (well, at least they're brass, but still, the crappiest termination method), if you have starting/weird electrical issues in the future, try wiggling the cables under the sheetmetal "clamps" that hold them in.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:27
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I use this style, with crimp on terminals. But I understand there may be clearance issues with hoods.
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Aug 23, 2016 16:36
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fknlo posted:
Do the axle nut TSB. I had to do mine yesterday after spending a few weeks trying to figure out what the hell was making noise. I thought I had an axle on it's way out until I remembered about the bulletin. I thought the PO took care of it since I never had any issues with it for three years, but nope. I did it yesterday at work cause you have to crank the hell out it
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Aug 23, 2016 16:53
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Nodoze posted:Do the axle nut TSB. I had to do mine yesterday after spending a few weeks trying to figure out what the hell was making noise. I thought I had an axle on it's way out until I remembered about the bulletin. I thought the PO took care of it since I never had any issues with it for three years, but nope. I did it yesterday at work cause you have to crank the hell out it I will get that done, but probably not today. There's a clicking from the passenger rear and I'm pretty sure it's the axle nut. e: Album of the old tires For anyone that doesn't know how to read the date on the tires, the first two digits are the week of the year the tires were made and the second two digits are the year they were made. I think the previous owners garage was a time capsule of some sort. fknlo fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Aug 23, 2016 |
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Aug 23, 2016 17:10
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fknlo posted:I will get that done, but probably not today. There's a clicking from the passenger rear and I'm pretty sure it's the axle nut. Yeah it's definitely that. Mine was on the driver side but I did both just to be sure. I tightened the poo poo out of them, hopefully it keeps em happy
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Aug 23, 2016 21:20
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kastein posted:Those are the crap battery terminals (well, at least they're brass, but still, the crappiest termination method), if you have starting/weird electrical issues in the future, try wiggling the cables under the sheetmetal "clamps" that hold them in. What kind do you use? I saw the big post you made a while back about terminals but the link to the type you use was dead.
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Aug 24, 2016 19:56
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Slight issue with the new close ratio gearbox: Fourth gear was slipping. So out with the box again. The issue is quite clearly visible when the box is open. The interference fitted gear on the out-axle has been slipping and the angled teeth have pushed it toward the front and into the steel support.   We filed down the edges, pressed the gear back in place and added welds to the 3rd and 4th gears.  The gearbox is back in place and appears to work quite well. No slipping anymore.  
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Aug 24, 2016 20:44
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Geirskogul posted:I use this style, with crimp on terminals. Looks good to me. I'm a brass nazi but those are beefy enough to not stretch out like stock ones do... and honestly, stock ones last 10 to 20 years on most vehicles, replacing a set of marine terminal adapters every 10 to 20 years is no big deal so lead is going to be Just Fine unless you're an autist about it like me. SperginMcBadposter posted:What kind do you use? I saw the big post you made a while back about terminals but the link to the type you use was dead. Yeah, sorry, AZ stopped carrying them  basically exactly what Geirskogul used, but made out of brass. Lead ones like he used are Good Enough.AI poo poo I did over the last few weeks and forgot to post: Rebuilt the pain in the rear end diaphragm carb on a piece of poo poo tiny engine that I hate:   It even has an air governor. I hate this thing but hopefully it makes the rototiller work. Replaced the master and slave cylinders on my newly purchased 01 Forester shitmobile, bled them repeatedly, swore and yelled and threw tools and swore some more, finally got it to bleed properly:  Then I had to replace the CMC again 5 days later because the brand new one failed. Pretty sure it was returned by some idiot goober who filled it with oil or DOT5 or something because it was an open package and had gummy little giblets stuck inside the reservoir when I bought it. The only reason I was willing to take that was because it was the only one on the shelf within 50 miles and I needed it RFN. Lesson learned. Also, I have way too much experience doing subaru master/slave cylinders now and could probably do both of them in under 20 minutes at this point, since I think I had the drat thing apart and back together again at least ten times in a week, including rebleeding it every 30-50 miles all the way home the night it failed just so I didn't have to call a towtruck. "Fixed" the rear bumper cover flapping around on the same newly purchased 01 Forester shitmobile. Speed tape!  Made it into a spaceship. Way cooler than the storage binnacle full of gross PO detritus and residue that was there before.  Prepared to do an R12->R152a conversion on my fiancee's Roadmaster. It was still holding 90psi of R12 vapor when I started, after 23 years, so I'm pretty sure none of the components are leaky. Discovered I didn't have an O-ring kit I needed just before tearing the system open to flush all the mineral oil out, so that went on hold, but at least I know it's a tight system...  VAC DOWN ALL THE WAY drat IT (the O-rings on my HF gauge set were giving me fits. It held 30"Hg for 2.5 hours once I finally got them to stop leaking.)  Stole the exhaust off the old 00 Forester to put it on the 01 Forester for safety inspection, since the exhaust it came with had 3 nasty leaks in it in the usual spots (2 by the hangars, one at the donut gasket.)   Brake job on the same 01 Forester because the old rotors were horrible and the pads not much better. Bought 4 new caliper bracket bolts before even touching it, it rewarded me by not breaking any of them. Replaced anyways, since the heads were nearly unrecognizable.  BEAUTIFUL ROTORS  Shits fookin groovy m8! (I did the worlds most egregious pad-slap because this one wore down to metal on metal 90 miles from home and 16 dollar pads sure beat a 90 mile tow I have to wait an hour for.)  Garbage that went in the recycling dumpster. Dust shields don't do well in the northeast.  You know your brake pads and rotors are grooved to gently caress when they belong in the railroad thread. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbAIOoLMt4Y kastein fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Aug 24, 2016 |
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Aug 24, 2016 22:50
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Yeah, brass is the way to go. Even beefy lead ones can bend and stretch if you're like me and are always loving with poo poo. But  . The ones I used for the solar battery are brass.Those rotors, bro. Dang.
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Aug 24, 2016 23:08
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Changed the oil filter for the first time in 12k miles. This is significant because it burns enough oil to have gone through ~12qts in that amount of time. Also did some light detailing of the cabin area, but it really needed it since there had been makeup all over the place. And those rotors look almost as bad as the ones I took off my S10 a year or so back. Holy poo poo, looked like Mars.
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Aug 25, 2016 04:22
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scuz posted:Changed the oil filter for the first time in 12k miles. This is significant because it burns enough oil to have gone through ~12qts in that amount of time. I just changed the oil and filter on my car. 9200 miles, and it was about a quart and a half low (measured by pouring the used oil into a 5 qt Mobil 1 bottle - car holds 5 qts). I'm going to place that squarely in the "not bad" category, especially given the mileage. I might be sold on Mobil 1. 11 year old car with 150k, still doesn't leak, and burns less than most brand new cars, despite being driven like it's stolen every day
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Aug 25, 2016 06:53
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Not today, but over that last weeks: Bought it (2009 Alfa Romeo Mi.To - really good looking and fun car. Girlfriend fell in love and I couldn't say no), changed all the fluids since I don't trust random dealers to know poo poo about Alfas. Did some preventive mods / retrofits and fixed the rear washer. It's an imported car that some Greek doctor took with him when he moved to Sweden, and it's only been here for 1 winter which means absolutely no rust at all. Not too many miles and a 155hp turbo petrol engine in a car that weighs < 1200kg makes it pretty spirited. The rear washer hose had disconnected and some lazy dealer / garage probably gave up instantly and plugged it with a screw. The other end was loose above the pedals. It was a squeeze, but easy fix. I suspected aftermarket dampers (since they were yellow) and I finally went through all the receipts and other papers again and found instructions for adjusting the dampers, so that's the next project. Would like a bit softer ride for city driving. Might get FSBs in the future. Hello moneypit.
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Aug 25, 2016 08:11
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Disconnected the rear sway, checked all the pads / rotors / tires fluids in preparation for track time this afternoon / evening. Hoping to shave a couple of seconds off of my best lap at the Ridge. The car has those seconds in it if I can avoid loving it up. Aero next. 
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Aug 25, 2016 16:32
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Changed the gearbox oil to flush out possible metal residue left by the gear issue in my previous post. This is what the magnet looked like. Installed a new Walbro fuel pump, new filter and re-routed the fuel line.  The ECU controlled cooling fan has been unreliable for a long time. This week it stopped working altogether and in any case the threshold temperatures of the 166 ECU have been a bit high for my taste. I installed a direct feed for the fan with a relay and a switch in the dashboard.  Tomorrow I will have a 300 mile test drive to a track day and on Sunday about 8 hours at the track and another 300 miles back home.
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Aug 26, 2016 20:41
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gapped and installed new spark plugs. the ones I had were fairly new iridium Denso plugs in the correct heat range but they keep fouling or otherwise loving up. NGK coppers installed and its running significantly better, boosting harder and not farting smoke/fuel everywhere. put in a new filter box too because the old one was lovely. the new one is lovely too, but marginally less lovely.
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Aug 27, 2016 10:29
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 Scrub scrub scrub, wash wash wash. Oh gently caress old dried up polish whyyyyy  Looks good now. Spent half the day cleaning it.
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Aug 27, 2016 19:40
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Spent about 4 hours pissing about with the IAC valve on my landrover trying to make it work properly. Really uncomfortable to get at. Got quite pissed off with it. Started by overextending it while testing it out of the throttle body and and popped the pintle and spring out onto my gravel drive. Found a cat turd while crawling under the truck searching for it. Then found the IAC parts but had no success making it work. Seems totally random how it behaves and I have concluded that it is hosed. New one is £18 on eBay, or £60 if i buy it from a local shop. Ordered it off eBay. some texas redneck posted:I might be sold on Mobil 1. 11 year old car with 150k, still doesn't leak, and burns less than most brand new cars, despite being driven like it's stolen every day I'm using Asda (Walmart UK) own brand synthetic, coupled with whatever filter I can get at the time for under £5 off ebay in my car at 10k intervals. Doesn't leak or burn much at 130k  I'm not convinced that the brand of oil matters that much on a generic daily driver, more that you keep with the intervals.
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Aug 27, 2016 23:48
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Post application of stripe, pre-cleanup on the bottom edge of the door. Wheels and vents were a couple weeks ago. Next step is to add a thin red line on top of the black, then do the bottom panel on the rear, and finally tackling an off-center racing stripe. Getting those lines straight and level was unpleasant and time consuming. It would have been easier just to paint the whole drat car.  e: cleaned!  Stock for reference: 
The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Aug 28, 2016 |
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Aug 28, 2016 00:16
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Tomarse posted:I'm using Asda (Walmart UK) own brand synthetic, coupled with whatever filter I can get at the time for under £5 off ebay in my car at 10k intervals. Doesn't leak or burn much at 130k My only filter options at Walmart are AC Delco (OEM, complete with a GM stamp on the filter itself) and Fram. I tried a Fram filter - it's a cartridge instead of a canister, so I figured even Fram would get it right - and when I pulled it at the next oil change it looked like it had imploded on itself. Filter media was collapsed and twisted. It's a $1 difference between the two. By the time you add shipping, the off brand filters aren't much cheaper either. Even with all the driving I do, I'm only having to change the oil 2-3x a year, and I don't expect to have the car more than another year - so buying a case of filters doesn't make any sense despite the discount.
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Aug 28, 2016 04:35
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I changed the front pads, lh brake cylinder and flushed the fluid. Then I got overenthusiastic shortened the shifter by 60mm, solid mounted it and lifted the back by about an inch using custom rubber spacers (trolley wheels from bunnings).still on the stands this morning I've got to take it for a test drive and bed in the new pads as yet.
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Aug 28, 2016 20:42
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I opened the aircon system on the fiancee's Roadmaster and discovered black death. Bolted the compressor back in so she can still drive... time to hit the yard for an "everything except the evap", dammit. Then put the new fan clutch on the MJ and drove it to buy a deathmobile for the next NEAI. what have I done  The seller is a friend so we readjusted the toe on the MJ while I was there. It doesn't deathwobble till 50+ now instead of 40-45 being the danger zone! End result of the fan clutch was that it no longer overheats while driving slowly, and only gets to nearly the bottom of the red zone if allowed to idle for 20 or 30 minutes. Previously even with a new radiator it would overheat below 20mph or idling - gauge pegged, coolant burbling and hissing, etc. I think at this point all it needs is a fan shroud (has none) and a new e-fan (has none.) Maybe a new thermostat too since it overcools to about 170 when moving quickly even on a 90 degree day.
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Aug 29, 2016 04:11
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Took the kart to the old abandoned highway about half an hour away to test some higher speeds than the driveway can afford. Let my son have some practice on it too, but not at full tilt; he'd roll it for sure. Ended up losing then finding the air filter, and losing the cotter pin for the brake pedal on the final run of the day, which mandated a manual stop. All in all a very good time.     Some short videos: https://youtu.be/LQSVlY2MGYg https://youtu.be/pmc4jOusFMQ Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 12:41
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DoLittle posted:Tomorrow I will have a 300 mile test drive to a track day and on Sunday about 8 hours at the track and another 300 miles back home. Well, the "fixed" 4th gear held for about 3 laps. Got back home without it though. Time to get some new gears...
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Aug 29, 2016 15:08
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Wrapped up the front suspension install (wheel bearings, lower control arm bushings, ball joints, end links) on the wife's car, now it just needs aligned. It used to shake a lot at 70 mph, and it was butter smooth up to 60 on my test drive yesterday. I didn't want to go too fast before getting it aligned (especially on city streets...) but hopefully this fixes it so I don't have to work on it again before selling it/trading it in.
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Aug 29, 2016 19:12
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I woke up too early today but the weather was nice enough that I decided to get outside and do the spark plugs on my Miata that I meant to do at the weekend when it was too hot. (1-4 left to right) I don't think they're too terrible, right?
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Aug 29, 2016 22:59
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