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Read the manual, most don't list synthetic but an ase or gf standard requirement.
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Aug 28, 2016 06:27
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Yeah, but STR is right - 0w20 conventional oil doesn't exist. It's apparently quite hard to get an oil that thin to work as a motor oil without doing enough work to just call it synthetic anyway. Also, if you're DIYing your oil changes, synthetic is loving cheap these days anyway.
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Aug 28, 2016 06:46
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So I've been on vacation in Australia... question for the Aussies: Snorkles. Mainly a fashion accessory, or do you really find yourself fording many rivers in your otherwise stock utes and SUVs? I'm not talking about the bogan 4x4s out in the sticks, more the suburban Brisbane and around abouts kind of places.
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Aug 28, 2016 09:45
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Fashion accessory. Lots of them aren't actually snorkels, just an alternate air intake that isn't water tight. If it has a forward facing intake, especially on a Land Cruiser, it's to look pretty and nothing more.
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Aug 28, 2016 09:50
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Memento posted:Fashion accessory. Lots of them aren't actually snorkels, just an alternate air intake that isn't water tight. If it has a forward facing intake, especially on a Land Cruiser, it's to look pretty and nothing more. Thanks, that's what I thought. Seems like a good place for something stingy/bitey to build a nest in.
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Aug 28, 2016 10:26
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Linedance posted:So I've been on vacation in Australia... question for the Aussies: FYI, after throwing a snorkel on mine I find that it's fantastic for dust management. I haven't had to stop and beat out my air filter when running behind other people on dusty trails since. It looks like Aus has a lot of dust, so I'd imagine it could help. How many people with them vs. how many need them is likely a different story, but don't think of a snorkel as a water only thing. Elevated intake works well, and you'll see it for the same reason on construction equipment.
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Aug 28, 2016 15:37
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Hoping this is the best place to post this question; I currently drive a 2013 F150 with a 3.5L Ecoboost 4x4, SuperCab. It's a leased company vehicle, and I've been told by my company that unless I want to buy it out myself, I'll need to roll it into a new lease in the next few weeks. I'm looking at another 2016 F150. I've got the okay to slightly step up the trim package (current=basic XLT, 2016=XLT w/Sports Package). What I'm undecided on is the engine (2.7L Eco, vs V8) and cab size (extended vs crew). After doing some anecdotal research on various forums, it seems like the V8 has a slightly higher tow rating (non-factor for my situation), and that the combined city/hghwy fuel consumption between the two is almost identical in real world settings (I'll be doing 90% city driving so the 2.7L might come out ahead. But I only drive the truck for personal use 10-15% of the time, and that is the only time I need to pay for gas...) BUT, depending on my career and life situation, as well as the condition of the truck itself, I might be wanting to buy out this new truck out at the end of the lease. So my biggest concern is engine reliability and maintenance cost. Would I be shooting myself in the foot long term taking the Turbo over the V8?
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Aug 28, 2016 16:05
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Dumb automotive question: I have a 2010 Kia Soul Exclaim which I have damaged one on the rims on years ago when I swerved into a curb to avoid hitting someone that ran a stop sign. It's been fine but I just bought new tires and they said it looked pretty severe when they installed them. So I'm looking into replacing the rear rim, but I'm having a hard time finding a replacement. There are a lot that are listed as "remanufactured" on ebay and various wheel selling websites, but I don't want to get some welded up piece of poo poo that was on a totaled car previously, and may or may not match the color of my other 3 rims. At the same time, I can't really find any actual "new" rims, or anything that seems to have the manufacturers approval as a refurb. The parts number for the rim is: 52910-2k550 and 52910-2k450 They're apparently the same wheel, but with two different parts numbers. I'm not sure how that works but both are printed on the current wheel I have installed. Any help in finding, or figuring out how to find the proper rim would be appreciated. Is remanufactured okay? Are there any sites to avoid? I haven't had a chance to call my dealership yet and see what they can offer me, but that's going to be done tomorrow.
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Aug 29, 2016 01:09
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SpartanIV posted:Dumb automotive question: Just get an eBay wheel if it balances awesome if not leave bad feedback and tear into them for a refund. There are wheel repair places online but that would be a little dumb to do that expense for a Kia Soul
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Aug 29, 2016 01:31
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I'd hit up the local wrecker and see if they have any spares in stock or can order one from a nearby place.
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Aug 29, 2016 01:36
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Also, check out a kia soul forum. I'm sure there are highschool kids upgrading and will sell you one rim for $50 or something plus shipping.
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Aug 29, 2016 02:39
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Really fuckin' stupid question When I bought my Challenger several months ago, the dealership had filled the tires with nitrogen. I didn't pay for it and didn't care much. Now one of the tires is reading 10psi low. I'm hoping it isn't a puncture, but to top it off, can I just use regular air (which yes I know has nitrogen in it)?
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Aug 29, 2016 14:25
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No, you have to use nitrogen. Using air in one tire only will result in severe reductions in handling. Of course it's fine
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Aug 29, 2016 14:50
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CornHolio posted:Really fuckin' stupid question The air your'e breathing, is somewhere between 70 and 80% nitrogen already. There's a fraction of the air that's o2, then some CO2, then some argon, and then a bunch of other gasses. And then there's some water, and other things too. Compressing the air, usually makes water drop out of suspension. The big rigs at tire shops that they charge you extra money for, just dry the air, and use some membranes to get most of the other big molucules out of the air, before dumping it in your tire. If you don't do that, your tire behaves as that membrane. CO2 is soluable in rubber, so will migrate through the tire, causing a loss in pressure. Some of the other gasses will as well. But the N2 and Argon will stay in the tire. If you regularly top off, you end up with mostly N2 in your tires anyway.
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Aug 29, 2016 15:00
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You will never notice the difference, except for the money you're not going to waste on nitrogen.
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Aug 29, 2016 15:47
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Godholio posted:You will never notice the difference, except for the money you're not going to waste on nitrogen. Costco refills your tires with Nitrogen for free.
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Aug 29, 2016 15:56
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My tires are filled with Taco Bell farts
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Aug 29, 2016 16:20
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Xpost from the detailing thread: Some rear end in a top hat opened their car door into mine and put a nice ding and left some paint on mine. It's a BRZ with really thin paint. I have a touch-up pen ready to use to cover up the paint that they removed, but what's the best way to remove the paint transfer that their door left? I don't have a buffer but I have a pretty nice electric drill.
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Aug 29, 2016 16:41
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Rhyno posted:Costco refills your tires with Nitrogen for free. Still not worth the drive IMO (if you're even a member). I can fill up my own tires for free, or pay a quarter at most gas stations.
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Aug 29, 2016 16:57
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two_beer_bishes posted:Xpost from the detailing thread: T-Cut, damp cloth and lots of elbow grease.
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Aug 29, 2016 17:36
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I'd try some claybar before using rubbing compound/abrasive polish on it. Less work, and I'd wager any scratches left by a door ding are going to be too deep to be removed by a single stage polish.
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Aug 29, 2016 18:06
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Found a guy on craigslist selling the rim I need for $50! As long as it appears to be in good physical condition and balances I should be good, right? From the picture it looks in good shape and lightly used. If that one doesn't work out I'll just go with whatever is on ebay. My dealership quoted me $270 for a rim and it would take them at least several days to receive it. So gently caress that. Thanks for the help thread!
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Aug 29, 2016 19:46
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I'll give the claybar a shot this weekend and go from there if I need to. Thanks for the input!
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Aug 29, 2016 19:47
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Bovril Delight posted:
That's what I figured, just wanted to be sure.
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Aug 29, 2016 20:08
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I need to scrub some small rust spots off, put some OEM touchup paint on there, and apply clear coat. What should I use to make the touchup look the least bad possible without getting a spray setup? A sponge?
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Aug 29, 2016 21:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I need to scrub some small rust spots off, put some OEM touchup paint on there, and apply clear coat. What should I use to make the touchup look the least bad possible without getting a spray setup? A sponge? It's a trite old adage that 90% of a good paint job is prep but it really is. To make it not look terrible you're gonna need to put in the time sanding and polishing before, in between and after. That said though, depending on the size of the job, for cost effectiveness your best bet is probably regular spray cans.
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Aug 29, 2016 23:07
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Also, the biggest issue with touchups is color matching; no matter how good the finish on your touchup job, the paint currently on your car has probably faded at least to some extent, so even the factory-code paint won't match exactly. That alone is a good chunk of what you pay a good paint shop for, even for small repairs.
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Aug 29, 2016 23:40
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Is there an issue with notching the tension rods (strut rods) on an fb rx7? As long as the overall length remains the same and the welds etc are decent quality I can't come up with a reason why it would matter, assuming they are able to be constructed well enough to not flex of course.
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Aug 30, 2016 01:42
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I want to install my mobile 2m radio in my "new" 2005 Ford Ranger. What's the best way to get the power wires from inside the cab up to the battery? Any useful grommets? I've seen recommendations to just drill/cut a hole in the plastic bit where the loom goes through the firewall, but if there's a better place for it I'd appreciate the info. (I intend to ground the negative wire to the body, not connect it to the battery, but I still need to get the positive lead in there and besides, there's plenty of good grounds in the engine bay) Edit: The truck is tan/brown.
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Aug 30, 2016 03:33
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Pham Nuwen posted:I want to install my mobile 2m radio in my "new" 2005 Ford Ranger. What's the best way to get the power wires from inside the cab up to the battery? Any useful grommets? I've seen recommendations to just drill/cut a hole in the plastic bit where the loom goes through the firewall, but if there's a better place for it I'd appreciate the info. If your ranger has an automatic transmission, you might be able to find a hole in the firewall with a blockoff plate where the clutch master cylinder would have been mounted on the manual transmission version of the truck. I'm not sure if the Ranger specifically has this - but if it does - It will be above and to the left of the brake pedal.
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Aug 30, 2016 03:40
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Absolute best practice would be to drill a hole in the metal and run the wire through its own grommet, but anecdotally, hacking a hole through the existing harness grommet worked fine on my Protege, and I ran wires and a vacuum line through it. Whatever you do, fuse the lead.
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Aug 30, 2016 03:43
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0toShifty posted:If your ranger has an automatic transmission, you might be able to find a hole in the firewall with a blockoff plate where the clutch master cylinder would have been mounted on the manual transmission version of the truck. I'm not sure if the Ranger specifically has this - but if it does - It will be above and to the left of the brake pedal. poo poo, I included the color but not the transmission type; it's a manual.
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Aug 30, 2016 03:59
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Ok, so what's up with 14-18 psi radiator caps? Why the range rather than a dedicated number? Is this thing going to pop at 14 or 18 psi? OE cap (2012 Wrangler 3.6 Pentasand) is 18 psi. Everything on the shelves is either 16, or 14-18.
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Aug 30, 2016 08:47
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Because manufacturing is difficult, and rubbers/waxes/metal discs may have different strengths at different temps. Including temps outside the system. One car the cap fits may bury the cap in a hot zone, while another puts it in the airstream. Guarantee that OE cap isn't spot on, either. The only perfect radiator pressure releases are computerized, and I don't have v$1.2m for a Veyron.
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Aug 30, 2016 09:18
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Why does the CEL on Subarus disable the traction control no matter what? Yes, a "small evap leak" will have serious impact on how the traction control works!
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Aug 30, 2016 14:01
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Godholio posted:Ok, so what's up with 14-18 psi radiator caps? Why the range rather than a dedicated number? Is this thing going to pop at 14 or 18 psi? With something like that it won't be much more to get it oem from the stealership.
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Aug 30, 2016 14:18
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Uthor posted:Why does the CEL on Subarus disable the traction control no matter what? Yes, a "small evap leak" will have serious impact on how the traction control works! Subaru is doing its best to change its image by sending people who don't maintain Subarus sideways into posts.
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Aug 30, 2016 14:49
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Uthor posted:Why does the CEL on Subarus disable the traction control no matter what? Yes, a "small evap leak" will have serious impact on how the traction control works! Has this happened to you or is it just from reading the manual? My SAAB manual (totally different, of course) claims that any CEL will put it into limp home mode (no traction control or abs, direct link throttle, auto trans limited to gears 2 and 3), but in practice that is not true.
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Aug 30, 2016 15:07
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It's happening to my mother's car. I don't know if stability control is really off, but the light that says it's off has turned on and I can't enable cruise control. For a previous CEL when the transmission had a freak out once, it made sense. For this case, it doesn't.
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Aug 30, 2016 15:15
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Uthor posted:It's happening to my mother's car. I don't know if stability control is really off, but the light that says it's off has turned on and I can't enable cruise control. That sucks. Its probably a stupid ploy to keep it in the dealer repair network or something.
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Aug 30, 2016 15:20
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