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The Iron Rose posted:a 1070 is unlikely to be powerful enough to run high/ultra @ 1440p @ 144Hz. A 1080 would be a better choice, and even then it may struggle. Thanks! Yeah, I didn't expect to get 144fps on anything, just that I was planning to get a monitor with those capabilities and be working towards that with upgrades over the years, as opposed to going to 4K. It looks like if I tweaked settings I could actually hit 144fps with games where that would have the most effect (Overwatch, Doom), but for most everything else I would be happy to stay above 60fps. I heard that GSync provided the most benefits when there is a gap between the monitor refresh rate and the FPS the card pushes out, which is why I was considering that. The performance boost/dollar for the GTX 1080 did not look that great to me. I picked that RAM because I heard Corsair was one of the top companies, and all the pictures of ram on PCPartPicker seemed to have similar heatsinks. I didn't really see any that was just the bare stick.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 00:46 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 15:44 |
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:Thanks! Yeah, I didn't expect to get 144fps on anything, just that I was planning to get a monitor with those capabilities and be working towards that with upgrades over the years, as opposed to going to 4K. It looks like if I tweaked settings I could actually hit 144fps with games where that would have the most effect (Overwatch, Doom), but for most everything else I would be happy to stay above 60fps. I heard that GSync provided the most benefits when there is a gap between the monitor refresh rate and the FPS the card pushes out, which is why I was considering that. The performance boost/dollar for the GTX 1080 did not look that great to me. RAM is RAM is RAM, get whatever's cheapest and whatever doesn't have giant heatsinks. It doesn't need to be just the bare stick, but it shouldn't stick out like the hilariously stupid Corsair Vengeance line does.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 00:51 |
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The Iron Rose posted:RAM is RAM is RAM, get whatever's cheapest and whatever doesn't have giant heatsinks. It doesn't need to be just the bare stick, but it shouldn't stick out like the hilariously stupid Corsair Vengeance line does. These are all the options on PC Part Picker for DDR4-3200 . I can't tell that any are smaller or larger than another. I mean, it actually looks like the Vengeance LPX is the shortest?
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 01:03 |
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:Thanks! Yeah, I didn't expect to get 144fps on anything, just that I was planning to get a monitor with those capabilities and be working towards that with upgrades over the years, as opposed to going to 4K. It looks like if I tweaked settings I could actually hit 144fps with games where that would have the most effect (Overwatch, Doom), but for most everything else I would be happy to stay above 60fps. I heard that GSync provided the most benefits when there is a gap between the monitor refresh rate and the FPS the card pushes out, which is why I was considering that. The performance boost/dollar for the GTX 1080 did not look that great to me. I think you could get 144fps on Overwatch at High and certainly at Medium. I have a 144hz G-Sync monitor (though with a 1080 STRIX) and hit 144 on Ultra. Frankly, trade looks for frames any time - it is such a huge difference, I would do 144 at Low over 60 at Epic. You can avoid the G-Sync tax by getting an ATI card and a FreeSync monitor. I have read good things about it and I think Nvidia will support it eventually, but regardless, it would save you a few hundred bucks now.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 01:06 |
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:These are all the options on PC Part Picker for DDR4-3200 . I can't tell that any are smaller or larger than another. I mean, it actually looks like the Vengeance LPX is the shortest? whoops, mea culpa. I guess I had the incredibly dumb DDR3 Corsair vengence RAM stuck in my head, you're fine, my bad becoming posted:I think you could get 144fps on Overwatch at High and certainly at Medium. I have a 144hz G-Sync monitor (though with a 1080 STRIX) and hit 144 on Ultra. Frankly, trade looks for frames any time - it is such a huge difference, I would do 144 at Low over 60 at Epic. I wouldn't really recommend this at the moment, AMD doesn't have anything that competes with a 1070 in terms of performance and longevity right now.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 01:07 |
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The Iron Rose posted:a 1070 is unlikely to be powerful enough to run high/ultra @ 1440p @ 144Hz. A 1080 would be a better choice, and even then it may struggle. You shouldn't feel the need to be at 144FPS at all times. Even without GSync you'll probably not notice being in the 100+ FPS and if you do that's what adaptive syncing is for. A 1070 is a great 1440p card for that. If you do plan on getting GSync the difference between 110 FPS and 144FPS is going to be ridiculously hard to tell. I got the the acer XB2710HU Monitor for $450 here: http://acerrecertified.com/UM.HB0AA.001 It comes in stock occasionally in the mornings, in April it only took me 3 or 4 days of checking when I woke up until I was able to snag it. I dunno if they have been coming back in stock lately. The Dell TN 1440p/144HZ Gsync monitor is frequently $450 new and that is a pretty great TN panel that is pretty close to the IPS.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 01:11 |
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The Iron Rose posted:whoops, mea culpa. I guess I had the incredibly dumb DDR3 Corsair vengence RAM stuck in my head, you're fine, my bad I'm cautiously optimistic about my strategy of picking up a firesaled fury. Looking at 4-500 bucks cheaper compared to a 1070 once the monitor is factored in. I know it's not the same performance but it's enough.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 01:31 |
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My case struggles continue. Is there a good, relatively cheap (less than ~£75) mATX case with good airflow, dust filters as standard, and that is actually small? My current Antec ATX case (an SLK-BQE; an ancient thing based on the Sonata, if anyone remembers that) is 220 x 470 x 460 (ish) and a a lot of supposedly small cases seem only a bit smaller (Bitfenix Prodigy: 250 x 404 x 359; Carbide Air 240: 260 x 387 x 320). The Antec ISK-600M (290 x 272.6 x 340) seems like it might fit the bill except that it doesn't have dust filters on the side vents and I'm not sure how great the cooling is. Anyone got any experience with it?
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 09:31 |
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Zephro posted:My case struggles continue. Is there a good, relatively cheap (less than ~£75) mATX case with good airflow, dust filters as standard, and that is actually small? My current Antec ATX case (an SLK-BQE; an ancient thing based on the Sonata, if anyone remembers that) is 220 x 470 x 460 (ish) and a a lot of supposedly small cases seem only a bit smaller (Bitfenix Prodigy: 250 x 404 x 359; Carbide Air 240: 260 x 387 x 320). My default mATX suggestion is the excellent Define Mini, quiet, dust filters, and so on. Fits in the price bracket. But as for being really small, well, not so much. We're not talking about mini-ITX here, after all.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 09:37 |
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Here's a few suggestions for mATX cases; (Edit) Corsair 88r Silverstone PS07/08/09/TJ-08e Nanoxia DS4 Jonsbo UMX/RM3 These are traditional tower shapes, and reasonably small. I personally have the TJ-08e, and can vouch for its quality, the PS07 is the same internal layout but with 2x120mm fans in the front instead of 1x180mm, and it's the cheaper of the two. Another reason I like the TJ-08e is it has clearance for 165mm of cooler, so you can put a pretty premium cooler in there (I have a Noctua NH-U14S in mine). Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Sep 1, 2016 |
# ? Sep 1, 2016 10:22 |
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HalloKitty posted:My default mATX suggestion is the excellent Define Mini, quiet, dust filters, and so on. Fits in the price bracket. But as for being really small, well, not so much. We're not talking about mini-ITX here, after all.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 11:10 |
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I'm not entirely sure if this or the backup thread is a better fit for this question, but since it's primarily about hardware and not software I figured I'll ask it here. I'm looking to get or build a (as) tiny (as possible) and quiet pc/nas/media server I can keep in the living room, which will work as both a Plex server that can transcode media, as well as a backup for my other pcs. If it could stream Steam games as well that'd be great, but that's more a bonus requirement. While I kinda know what I'm doing when building a regular pc, I've no idea what to go for when it comes to such a solution. My budget is preferably sub-1000, max 1500. I figure I need 1 x 3.5" hdd for the Plex media, and 1 or 2 x 3.5" for the backups. The Plex server will probably only do one stream at a time if it matters. Any suggestions for builds or pre-built solutions that would fit the bill? Shaking lemur butt fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Sep 1, 2016 |
# ? Sep 1, 2016 11:24 |
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Zephro posted:My case struggles continue. Is there a good, relatively cheap (less than ~£75) mATX case with good airflow, dust filters as standard, and that is actually small?
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 12:29 |
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So, I ended up biting the bullet and going with this build. http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/gjnqm8 I went the whole hog and just said gently caress the budget, this is what I want. I also decided to have a go at putting it all together myself. Well I've spent hours putting it all together and neatly managing the cables. However, when I went to boot it up there was no beep and no display. It said A9 on the mobo display which just means 'Start of Setup' according to the manual. So I googled it and read the suggestion of removing the mobo battery, shorting the contacts, removing all RAM but the single module in slot 3, and removing the graphics card. I did all that and it finally booted. Right now I'm in the middle of installing Windows 10 but I'd love to know what this indicates and how do I fix it? If I need to move this to another thread just let me know which.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 12:58 |
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Work is keen to buy me a 4k monitor, looking at the Samsung U28E590D. it's £328 on Amazon. PLS and 28" look good to me. Don't wanna break their budget, but is there a better deal in the UK? Mostly used for productivity, maybe watching movies and some gaming (dark souls, Overwatch maybe. Other console ports. Nothing twitchy basically.) (xpost from monitor thread)
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 13:34 |
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well why not posted:Work is keen to buy me a 4k monitor, looking at the Samsung U28E590D. it's £328 on Amazon. PLS and 28" look good to me. Don't wanna break their budget, but is there a better deal in the UK? It's not PLS, it's TN, so the usual caveats apply. Colours will look bad, and you will have colour shifting in the corners of the display due to it being 28" and TN. Really I've never understood the 4K TN monitors, because whatever image quality benefit 4K gives is negated by the shittiness of TN. Have you looked into the P2715Q? It's a nice 27" 4K IPS screen and typically not too much more expensive than the TN models.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 14:44 |
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BurritoJustice posted:It's not PLS, it's TN, so the usual caveats apply. Colours will look bad, and you will have colour shifting in the corners of the display due to it being 28" and TN. A quick look on amazon indicates it's about £200 more than the samsung.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 14:49 |
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well why not posted:Work is keen to buy me a 4k monitor, looking at the Samsung U28E590D. it's £328 on Amazon. PLS and 28" look good to me. Don't wanna break their budget, but is there a better deal in the UK?
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 15:01 |
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What's the recommended wireless adapter for desktop these days? (pcie or USB is fine). I have a TP-Link Archer C7 as the router. Currently I'm using a TP-Link T4UH v1 and it has all kinds of connectivity issues.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 17:34 |
Posted here a while back and took all recommendations and was SUPER HAPPY. Looking to build another PC for my mom in law. She doesn't need anything fancy, just using it for work/surfing/watch netflix. Was thinking: CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Video Card: Need help with this, she might do a bit of video editing, but NO gaming, lol but want to be covered for 4-5 years Case: Need help with this, she wants it to be very slim, so it can go on her desk next to the monitor Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Told her I could do it for around 600 bucks, but she is flexible.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 17:39 |
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When I was looking for slim cases the one I gravitated towards was the SilverStone ML08B: I ultimately decided against it because of case temperatures when overclocking, but for a lower-powered rig it should be fine Edit: It's a Mini ITX case, though I assume there must be similar ones for Micro CharlieFoxtrot fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Sep 1, 2016 |
# ? Sep 1, 2016 20:00 |
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That, the Raven line, and the Node 202 seem to be the most popular slim cases.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 20:31 |
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kingcobweb posted:Buying a discrete sound card because I'm a huge music nerd Khablam posted:The on-board sound almost certainly has better sound than the budget card, or is completely indistinguishable. (115 snr to 105) If you are a music nerd you'll connect the integrated soundcard to an external amplifier using an optical SP-DIF cable. That way you avoid the interference caused by the computer, since the soundcard is transmitting a digital signal and you also avoid interference between the computer and amplifier since there is no galvanic connection. A more modern option would a HDMI connection, but I have some misgiving about it after burning two HDMI ports from my TV when plugging the cable while both computer and TV were connected to power.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 20:41 |
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OK, I finally came up with this: I live in , this will be an upgrade to my current gaming / web browsing / light productivity PC. Budget is around £850. At the moment I run a boring 1080p non-Freesync monitor, but see below. quote:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Also a couple of questions: for a mini-ITX shoebox like the Core 500, will I see much difference in cooling between a blower-style GPU and an open-cooled one? I know in theory blowers are better because they can suck in cold air through the side vent and then exhaust it directly out the back, but they tend to be noisier than open-cooling systems and I would really like this PC to be quiet. Also, if I do go for the Radeon, is the price premium for the 8 gig version worth it? I'm unlikely to go much higher than 1080p (maaaaybe 2560 x 1080 if I push the boat out on a Freesync monitor upgrade). edit: one more question, actually - I have an Antec Truepower 550 non-modular PSU in my current PC. Saving £81 by hanging on to it is quite attractive, but am I dooming myself to a world of pain if I try to re-use it in the new case? Fractal says that case will take a non-modular PSU, but will it come at the price of bloodied knuckles and swearing? Zephro fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Sep 2, 2016 |
# ? Sep 1, 2016 21:15 |
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Can someone double check me here. I'm pretty sure this CPU (i7-4970K) fits this motherboard (ASUS Z97-K). Intel's site says the CPU supports the FCLGA1150, and the motherboard says it 's LGA1150, but google tells me that doesn't matter and the CPU is listed as compatible on the ASUS website. If I understand properly I just need a BIOS upgrade to support the CPU, but I feel like I'm missing something important. Smegmatron fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Sep 1, 2016 |
# ? Sep 1, 2016 22:27 |
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Smegmatron posted:Can someone double check me here. I'm pretty sure this CPU (i7-4970K) fits this motherboard (ASUS Z97-K). Yeah those are compatible.
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# ? Sep 1, 2016 22:49 |
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Possibly a dumb question, but is there a functional difference in gaming performance between my 2500k OC'd to 4.00GHz and say a 6600k OC'd to the same speed? I know the newer ones will be less hot and more energy efficient, but I wonder if I'm maybe missing something or if we've just been stuck in processor speed for a while now.
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 02:42 |
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Anyone know which ram slots to use on ASUS Z170-A motherboard if I only use 2 sticks of RAM? If I can use 2-4 I think I'll risk getting the larger H5 Ultimate cpu cooler otherwise I think I'll have to settle for the H5 universal cooler which is less likely to block RAM.Your Loyal Vizier posted:Thanks! I think the difference is in the cooler, I've read a lot of comments about the Cryorig being smaller than average. How is the cryorig cooler working for you? I built a PC with a Cryorig H7 for my wife last Christmas. It's basically touching the RAM stick but I haven't had any problems with it. LLSix fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Sep 2, 2016 |
# ? Sep 2, 2016 02:49 |
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Maxmaps posted:Possibly a dumb question, but is there a functional difference in gaming performance between my 2500k OC'd to 4.00GHz and say a 6600k OC'd to the same speed? Processor speed has been stuck for over a decade. Every CPU I've bought in the last 12 years has hovered around 4GHz on a single core. The CPU thread is having a spirited discussion about just how much the extra cache and improved hyperthreading matter right now. LLSix fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Sep 2, 2016 |
# ? Sep 2, 2016 03:31 |
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Any chance there will be significant Labor Day deals on hardware? I feel like I should wait a week just to make sure I'm not leaving money on the table
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 03:34 |
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Smegmatron posted:Can someone double check me here. I'm pretty sure this CPU (i7-4970K) fits this motherboard (ASUS Z97-K). FC stands for flip chip because originally the chips on these processor packages were on the same side as the pins - this is back when it was all PGAs instead of LGAs. Heatsinks are way more effective when they're directly on the die instead of insulated by the package body, so once chips started needing serious active cooling they were all flipped to the opposite side of the package from the pins. This happened a long time ago (with Pentium MMX for Intel, I think) so at this point the "flipped" configuration is the only one that many people know and the unnecessary "FC" is dropped by most. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Sep 2, 2016 |
# ? Sep 2, 2016 04:12 |
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Maxmaps posted:Possibly a dumb question, but is there a functional difference in gaming performance between my 2500k OC'd to 4.00GHz and say a 6600k OC'd to the same speed? Better IPC at the same clock speed, so it's faster yes.
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 05:41 |
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Maxmaps posted:Possibly a dumb question, but is there a functional difference in gaming performance between my 2500k OC'd to 4.00GHz and say a 6600k OC'd to the same speed?
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 09:24 |
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Maxmaps posted:Possibly a dumb question, but is there a functional difference in gaming performance between my 2500k OC'd to 4.00GHz and say a 6600k OC'd to the same speed? The 6600K does slightly more work per cycle, has better cache and enables DDR4 memory. You can of course push a 6600k further on an OC than you can a 2500k. For gaming specifically, OC'd or not, the above factors add together to the 2500k beginning to be a bottleneck if you're pushing 2016's games on a highend 2016 card. It's probably the slowest CPU worth replacing if you're somewhat budget restrained. Even if your budget is almost unlimited, it hasn't been worth re-buying into the new CPU generation for a while. This is a good thing in some regards, as the cost of keeping a gaming PC (year on year average) above console standards is now about console prices. Just stick a mid-range card in every 3 years and you're good.
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 11:01 |
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I think I hosed something up on my new PC. Possibly ruined the i5-6600k :/ Won't post, fans and mechanical hard drive start up, but as far as I can tell nothing else does. Which implies to me anyways the CPU is the problem. PCU and GTX 970 is a carry over from my other PC and I plugged those back into it and it works just fine, i'm typing back on my old PC again. Time to start sending stuff back to Newegg for replacement.
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 13:48 |
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Khablam posted:The 6600K does slightly more work per cycle, has better cache and enables DDR4 memory. You can of course push a 6600k further on an OC than you can a 2500k. Yeah, we had that infamous Digital Foundry article that showed the OC 2500k being outperformed by a stock 6500. There are a number of factors at play besides clock speed. It does raise an interesting question, why have clock speeds stagnated? Technical or physical limitations?
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 14:56 |
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LLSix posted:How is the cryorig cooler working for you? I built a PC with a Cryorig H7 for my wife last Christmas. It's basically touching the RAM stick but I haven't had any problems with it. We may never know! I ended up having to downgrade to a 212 EVO because the Cryorig was out of stock everywhere. But I think it would have been fine, by that point I had already swapped to ram without heat spreaders. This build has gone through many iterations, thanks to me being compulsive and the friend I'm assisting being a lazy rear end in a top hat who kept not pulling the trigger and leaving me with a then-defunct list of parts when stock availability or pricing changed. I finally yelled at him and got it done, though. Stuff should start arriving today!
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 15:37 |
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Thanks to the CPU advice. Hearing that my 2500k might be starting to get old, I think I'm best off doing some research into the 7xxx (since it coming out on week 09 of 2017 seems like not too huge of a wait) or maybe just pulling the trigger on a 6600k this month. You guys are awesome.
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 16:30 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 15:44 |
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Fair warning, you might not notice much of a difference in games unless you also have a good graphics card. Even an i5-2500k won't become a big bottleneck unless it's paired with a state-of-the-art graphics card and you have a >60Hz monitor.
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# ? Sep 2, 2016 16:44 |