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Alereon posted:Dual-channel isn't something you support or filter for, it's what the memory modules sold in pairs are. Notice how when you filter for "16GB" nearly everything that comes up is a 2x8GB kit? That's dual-channel. I can only go with PC3-12800 and 1600 MHz basically, right? Are any of these better than the others? The CL8s are not available in my country, and I don't want to buy Ballistix. The rest look like they have the exact same specs. Prob just gonna get the Corsair Vengeance (CL9, CML16GX3M2A1600C9). ufarn fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Aug 30, 2016 |
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Aug 30, 2016 22:45
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ufarn posted:For some reason, shops in my country list the modules as "Parity: none", but that's apparently something else. For´some reason, Amazon keeps filtering the 16 GB option.
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Aug 30, 2016 22:50
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Alereon posted:You want RAM that doesn't have tall heatspreaders that won't fit under an aftermarket heatsink, the G.Skill Ares line for example. Aside from that as long as it's 1.50V and no higher than CL9 it should work fine. So not Corsair Vengeance.
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Aug 30, 2016 22:56
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ufarn posted:I couldn't tell by the specs, but are you saying Ares instead of Vengeance because of a lower profile?
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Aug 30, 2016 23:53
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Alereon posted:Yes. I've also personally had poor luck with Corsair RAM over G.Skill, but I don't have any actual evidence Corsair is less good.
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Aug 31, 2016 09:03
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ufarn posted:Cool, cheers. Just got my RAM, and I see this in Windows  Any idea what gives? EDIT: Maybe the placement is wrong: Right now, it's [Black] [Blue] [Black] [Blue]  And I've placed the sticks in both the blue slots (as my previous sticks). Gonna try the two As and see if ti works this time around. [Black] [Blue] [Black] [Blue] EDIT: Nope, still doesn’t want to boot with that config. ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 2, 2016 |
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Sep 2, 2016 13:36
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Windows Home Basic?
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Sep 2, 2016 13:59
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MrMoo posted:Windows Home Basic? EDIT: After I put the RAM back, it suddenly works fine. I guess you just have to do it again and again until it works, but weird that it was detected and still didn’t work properly the first time. ufarn fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Sep 2, 2016 |
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Sep 2, 2016 14:10
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ufarn posted:10 Pro x64.
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Sep 2, 2016 16:37
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Alereon posted:You may have had a module not fully seated. Check using CPU-Z to make sure you didn't put the RAM in the wrong slots for dual-channel operation, as falling back to single channel will impact performance. The motherboard manual tells you which slots you should be using.
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Sep 2, 2016 17:13
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I think I've had a motherboard not boot before after rebuilding a PC. I checked the RAM and it was clicked in, but because I'd checked everything else that would've prevented booting I took it out and reseated it. It booted. I'm sure the above happened a couple of years ago, and my brain hasn't mis-remembered it. So, RAM can be a bit funny sometimes.
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Sep 2, 2016 23:46
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I have a quick question. I recently went from r9 290 to gtx 1070. I used DDU in safe mode to remove the AMD drivers, but since upgrading to the new card, all my games feel floaty/laggy. Playing online shooters feels as though I have a high ping (I don't). What can I try? edit. I disabled xbox recording. Seems as though you can't uninstall the xbox app. Battlefront seemed normal, but BF4 was still a bit funny. Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Sep 24, 2016 |
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Sep 24, 2016 11:53
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Not sure if this fits here... I have three headsets that I'm constantly switching between: - Wireless Headset for when I'm doing stuff on speakers - More heavyweight headset for when I'm doing stuff on headphones - Oculus Rift for VR race cars/spaceships. I'm constantly switching my default communication device based off what I'm playing, or even sometimes what the context is. Is there a application/driver that would combine the devices together into one device such that any audio output/input goes to/from all three simultaneously, or some other convenient way to not have to gently caress with my settings all the time?
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Sep 24, 2016 17:42
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MisterZimbu posted:Is there a application/driver that would combine the devices together into one device such that any audio output/input goes to/from all three simultaneously, or some other convenient way to not have to gently caress with my settings all the time? Some games/programs will let you select a specific audio device rather than just routing through the default. SteamVR also has an option for switching audio inputs/outputs when you start up a VR game. Dunno if Oculus supports that on its own, Luckey Palmer's been busy with more important stuff like drumming up donations for his pro-Trump SuperPAC on Reddit and might not have gotten around to it 
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Sep 24, 2016 21:07
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MisterZimbu posted:Not sure if this fits here... I use http://audioswit.ch/er to switch between speakers headphones and my TV output. Right click the app in system tray to change gears input and can set volume levels individually.
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Sep 24, 2016 23:26
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Yesterday I was playing a game (Stalker Clear Sky, nothing graphics heavy) when everything just froze. Had to restart, and upon restart a notification came up that windows recovered from a driver crash. Sat around a few hours more (no games) until visual artifacts started to show up on both my screens. Turned the computer off, let it cool for an hour then restarted. Glitches were present in the booting sequence, and when it booted up it was just a static image of my desktop with some glitches. I've been using a GTX 680 for the past few years (four I think?). Well cooled, never overclocked but I guess it's just time for a new one? I reconnected everything and still same issue. Then I just threw in my old Radeon 5970 and it works fine. But just to reassure, the card is fried right?
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Sep 26, 2016 09:57
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I'd probably look for a ready-to-order replacement just in case. Could be your cooling is busted with some dust that needs to be cleaned. The GFX is usually the one to take the main hit from obstructed cooling.
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Sep 26, 2016 10:15
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Yeah probably. MSI Afterburner is saying that current temps for the 5970 are around 60-65c when browsing / music. Not gonna try any intense games, this is high enough temperature as it is. I cleaned out the whole case when replacing the card.
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Sep 26, 2016 10:20
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If you're seeing corruption even in the BIOS or start-up screens like that then it has to be a bad card. I'd be surprised if the card could get hot enough that quickly to show problems as soon as it powers on.
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Sep 26, 2016 11:32
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Could be worth trying reapplying thermal compound - if the manufacturer used lovely compound or a pad it could be completely dried out and no longer transmitting heat to the heat sink.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:23
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Issue: Need to get a new hard drive/storage solution/gaming drive since my old HDD is beginning to fail. Question: I'm too poor for a high capacity SSD, so are Hybrid drives any good or should I just grab a 2tb 7200 or 10k rpm HDD? Will use it for: Media storage/Gaming OS boots on a 120gb SSD, which is full to the brim with regularly used games.
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Sep 26, 2016 20:20
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Hybrid drives aren't really any faster than normal spinning HDDs because they don't carry enough flash memory to make a difference. High-rpm drives were obsoleted by SSDs, if you plan to run games or apps from it get a decent 7200rpm drive, otherwise one of the cheaper 5400rpm Green drives would be fine for large file storage. Do not attempt to use one of the Seagate Archive drives for anything other than large files that aren't changed.
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Sep 26, 2016 20:26
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It will primarily be for gaming. I have an external 3tb for regular media and backups so I'll likely be using this drive for game loading and streaming / recording stuff. Is there any increase in read/write when using a 10k over a 7200? When I said I was poor I meant I was too poor for a 500gb+ SSD but most of the HDDs I've looked at don't seem to be too pricey.
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Sep 26, 2016 20:35
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Again, 10k/15krpm HDDs were made obsolete by SSDs. Any you see that are within your price range are very slow. For your needs just get a 7200rpm drive of the size you need. E: Bonus explanation on 10k/15krpm drives being slow: HDD performance is determined by two things, density and rotation speed. High-rpm drives spin faster, but have lower density. As a general rule performance increased faster from higher densities than it did from spindle speed. So in many cases using a larger 7200rpm drive was faster than a smaller 10krpm drive. The launch of SSDs basically split the market into fast storage and bulk storage, with fast storage using SSDs and bulk storage using HDDs. Archive drives use a new recording tech called "Shingled Magnetic Recording" and are written an entire track at a time. This makes them great for storing large files that never change, but almost unusable for things like BitTorrent and applications. Normal Green drives just spin at 5200rpm drives, which makes them suck for launching applications but not as god-awful as Archive drives. Alereon fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 20:42
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Okay, thanks for the info!
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Sep 26, 2016 20:44
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Dumb question: I have a 2tb external drive (WD Elements) which I've been using exclusively for backups, but I realised that even with versioned files I'm only using ~300 gb with said backups. Is there any downside to dumping a whole bunch of media in there to free up space in my other drives? (Leaving space so the backups can still version?) I'm planning on getting a 4tb drive for said media when I fly to the States on November, is there any difference in external and internal drives if I'm only going to use it for movies/series/pictures? I don't think I have any free connectors to put another drive in there so I'd have to phase out one of the smaller ones if I go for an internal one.
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Sep 27, 2016 04:07
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Edmond Dantes posted:Dumb question: I have a 2tb external drive (WD Elements) which I've been using exclusively for backups, but I realised that even with versioned files I'm only using ~300 gb with said backups. USB 2.0 is significantly slower than an internal drive at bulk transfers and especially at handling lots of little files. If you plan on intensively using that data (editing pictures, etc) then you will definitely be better off keeping it internal. With USB 3.0 or just for playing movies or whatever, then not really any major downsides. You will clutter up your work area a fair bit more with adapter plugs and cables. I am also a little bit leery of external drives because they are one way that HDD companies flog off refurbished drives and other lower-quality disks, and they typically have a shorter warranty. As always if you really care about some data you should really keep a second backup somewhere else. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 04:35
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No, the current external I have is USB 3.0 and I'm just gonna use it for movies/series for now; I'll probably go back to using it for backup only after I buy the new one. Yeah, I'll probably go for an internal one. My current drives are 640gb/1tb (and a 240 ssd I use for windows/games), so it's not that big a deal losing the 640 if I end up needing to phase one out. I need to start looking at online backup pricing, I keep putting it off.  Thanks!
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Sep 27, 2016 04:49
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bvckup is a really nice tool for backing up and scheduling backups, to make sure things go as smoothly as possible, too.
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Sep 27, 2016 15:26
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Maybe or maybe not the right place to ask. I've been asked to find some sort of remotely controlled display that can display minimal text (e.g. something like a long-clock-esque display) that can be controlled via USB or wifi. Any ideas? Google is coming up blank, but I also dont know what to search for
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Sep 27, 2016 17:46
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A lot of options depending upon latency requirements, for example digital picture frames can support network access similarly there are various RSS viewing devices. Probably more reliable to use a tablet or a Raspberry Pi in a box. Then there are just external monitors, there has been for a while USB based DisplayLink. Windows has built in things like Miracast and projection support but very limited support for the later and varied quality for the former. Even Arduino can be used for a basic RSS text feed:  Hardware tickers are quite expensive and should be avoided these days, I helped NYSE replace their hardware tickers with HDTV's and Ubuntu based Chromium web browser for example. MrMoo fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 18:00
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MrMoo posted:A lot of options depending upon latency requirements, for example digital picture frames can support network access similarly there are various RSS viewing devices. Probably more reliable to use a tablet or a Raspberry Pi in a box. Thanks; as I've been googling around a simple 4 character sement display would be sufficient; but I'm looking for the closest to "end user friendly" I can get and have it be controllable remotely. Thanks for those tips; googling on them now. Adruino would b emy top pick if it were a project for just myself 
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Sep 27, 2016 18:09
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So closer to the retail eink displays for pricing?  Or maybe just this:  https://www.microframecorp.com/d5120xxxk-2-digit-wireless-take-a-number-display In HK most of these have changed to PC's with LCD monitors as they're cheaper. Also just found this which looks quite project worthy:  https://davidgf.net/page/41/e-ink-wifi-display MrMoo fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 18:13
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ufarn posted:bvckup is a really nice tool for backing up and scheduling backups, to make sure things go as smoothly as possible, too. I've been using CrashPlan since a bunch of people recommended it when I first got the backup drive. I'm using the free version which does a good job for local backups, I may just end up getting their subscription (6 bucks a month or 50 a year) for online backups.
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Sep 27, 2016 18:16
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MrMoo posted:So closer to the retail eink displays for pricing? Yup; getting pretty close. The last one looks perfect; but contains a bit much hacking. The wireless number display isnt alphanumeric, but otherwise also pretty darn close to what's needed. I'm slowly starting to think Arduino or RasPi + custom case is going to be the easiest route, but hoping to avoid that.
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Sep 27, 2016 18:31
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Something like https://deepstream.io/ and two Android tablets should be functionality up to par and safe hardware wise. More cute gadgets:  https://getdisplio.com MrMoo fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 18:51
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MrMoo posted:Something like https://deepstream.io/ and two Android tablets should be functionality up to par and safe hardware wise. That... might actually work perfectly. Going to fire up some VMs; but this looks phenomenal. edit: The second one also looks awesome. You're the man. Thanks
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Sep 27, 2016 19:08
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I'm about to purchase a Cooltek C3 Case that comes with a 120mm fan. Does the fan have PWM (cabels/slots/whatever) or should I order an extra PWM fan from Cooltek as well?
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Sep 27, 2016 21:20
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lllllllllllllllllll posted:I'm about to purchase a Cooltek C3 Case that comes with a 120mm fan. Does the fan have PWM (cabels/slots/whatever) or should I order an extra PWM fan from Cooltek as well?
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Sep 27, 2016 22:17
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Didn't know that. Thanks Alereon!
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Sep 28, 2016 06:53
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