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meatpimp posted:I just don't see Magic Erasers as harsh. They are my first go-to with marks or mars on cars or bikes... it's all in how you use it. Don't push like a monkey and take your time. I mean, yeah; it's less harsh than wetsanding, but it's more harsh than clay. Remember the golden rule when detailing: Always go with the least abrasive first.
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Aug 29, 2016 19:39
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Thanks for the input, I think I'll grab a claybar this weekend since I've been meaning to get one anyway. If I need anything more harsh then I might go to my wife's friend who runs a detailing shop on the other side of town.
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Aug 29, 2016 19:46
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ratbert90 posted:I mean, yeah; it's less harsh than wetsanding, but it's more harsh than clay. Remember the golden rule when detailing: Always go with the least abrasive first. I know, I know. Maybe I'm getting old, or lazy. Either way, I find that clay hardly works at all on paint transfer... so I skip straight to the magic eraser.
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Aug 29, 2016 20:52
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EVERYWHERE 
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Any suggestions on a 'small'/portable powerwasher setup that I can run off a standard hose attachment? Wife wants to be able to clean the rubberized/textured floor of the balcony outside our kitchen that accumulates with general california grime/bird poo poo since she keeps a bunch of feeders up there, and I'd use it occasionally for cleaning wheels/cars, but the general need is to be strong enough to blast the surface clean without having to scrub. And small enough to keep in the bottom of a coat closet.
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Aug 30, 2016 20:00
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Ether Frenzy posted:Any suggestions on a 'small'/portable powerwasher setup that I can run off a standard hose attachment? Dad had this one for 25 years ish http://www.generalpump.com/PDFs/PU1021-BOXJET-Pressure%20Washer.pdf Its easily as powerful as the Karcher K7 that replaced it, and is only a little larger than a car battery. Not sure where you would buy it in California though. It might also be slightly overkill for your uses. [EDIT] Found a seller http://www.pressurewashersdirect.com/General-Pump-PU1021B-Pressure-Washer/p6029.html Humbug fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 30, 2016 |
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Aug 30, 2016 20:20
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Thanks for the rec, I'll take a look at that one.
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Sep 1, 2016 00:00
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The leather seats in my new project car have some fairly hefty cracks in them that I am thinking about trying to fill/repair myself. Has anyone here done this before? Anything I should watch out for?
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Sep 2, 2016 15:09
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Grakkus posted:The leather seats in my new project car have some fairly hefty cracks in them that I am thinking about trying to fill/repair myself. Has anyone here done this before? Anything I should watch out for? Sweet baby jesus, that's rough. I haven't done anything like that, but I look forward to your trip report!
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Sep 2, 2016 17:24
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Yeah, the best you're going to do with that is to clean and soften. Anything beyond that won't be worth the time/effort/cost.
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Sep 2, 2016 17:34
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Grakkus posted:The leather seats in my new project car have some fairly hefty cracks in them that I am thinking about trying to fill/repair myself. Has anyone here done this before? Anything I should watch out for? If it's cracked the best you can do is reupholster. Autogeek recommends Leatherique to restore what can be done: http://www.autogeek.net/leleca.html But if it's cracked you need to reupholster.
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Sep 2, 2016 17:34
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ratbert90 posted:If it's cracked the best you can do is reupholster. He said fill, so I thought he was looking at one of the more intensive repair treatments, like one of the full Leatherique kits?
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Sep 2, 2016 18:19
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meatpimp posted:He said fill, so I thought he was looking at one of the more intensive repair treatments, like one of the full Leatherique kits? Filling never works well and ends up always looking like rear end.
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Sep 2, 2016 19:02
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ratbert90 posted:Filling never works well and ends up always looking like rear end. This has been my experience as well. Any money/time spent outside of reupholstering is throwing money away in his scenario.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:30
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Less detailing and more straight up painting but here we go: Tell me about surface prep. I have two mismatched fenders on my car that I want to paint to match the rest of the car. One is on it, one isn't yet. I have an uncle who paints his own cars who's gonna help me paint - I haven't seen one of his paint jobs in person yet and if they look like dogshit I'm aborting the entire thing. However, before any of that, I have to do whatever I need to do to these existing fenders to make them paintable. Both fenders are decent - some clearcoat peeling but the paint is intact. The paint shop tells me I just need to sand the paint smooth and get all the clear off rather than stripping it entirely and primering the bare metal. I have a random orbital sander I use on wood - can I just get some 1000(?) grit discs for it or is there a specific kind of sander this requires? If I burn through the paint on a corner is that millimeter of bare steel gonna gently caress up the painting process? What all am i not even mentioning that needs to be done?
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Sep 3, 2016 00:04
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You can go with a lower grit than 1k, you'll be there forever. The sander will probably be fine till you get to any type of contour, then it will slow down considerably or totally, so you gotta figure that out as you use it. Just spray primer on where you sand through.
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Sep 3, 2016 04:12
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So a mixture of sanded paint and freshly sprayed primer is workable? I was pretty well resigned to hand sanding inside of body lines and such so that's fine. If not 100 then what? 800? 600? I only have up to 100 on hand so I gotta go buy it no matter what it is.
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Sep 3, 2016 04:55
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Javid posted:So a mixture of sanded paint and freshly sprayed primer is workable? I was pretty well resigned to hand sanding inside of body lines and such so that's fine. This guy seems to know his poo poo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGEmPMBV3ng
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Sep 3, 2016 13:43
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I recently sprayed in a bedliner on my truck, and I noticed yesterday that somehow I managed to leave a gap in my masking and there is a half-dollar sized triangle of bedliner on the paint just below the taillight, where the bedside meets up with the tailgate. The liner is U-Pol Raptor Liner. I guess my question is, how hosed am I and does anyone here have any experience removing it without destroying the paint underneath it? The truck is black so it doesn't stand out much but it is going to irritate the absolute poo poo out of me every time I see it from now on
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Sep 3, 2016 16:51
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MrOnBicycle posted:This guy seems to know his poo poo: That video deals largely with putting filler in a dent which is not a factor here. The closest he came to actually addressing my questions was mentioning using 1500 on the entire panel after he got done with 120-320-600 on the dent/filler/primered spot.
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Sep 3, 2016 20:06
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I would use 600 grit on your DA to get down thru the clear and level out where it has peeled. You can shoot right over primer and scuffed base coat no problem. The areas where the paint is in good condition, you only need to remove the shine.
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Sep 4, 2016 11:53
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Javid posted:That video deals largely with putting filler in a dent which is not a factor here. The closest he came to actually addressing my questions was mentioning using 1500 on the entire panel after he got done with 120-320-600 on the dent/filler/primered spot. Oops, meant to link to his channel and not a specific video.
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Sep 4, 2016 12:38
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Sorry if this question has been asked a number of times in this thread, but what's the best way of removing brake dust from alloy wheels?
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Sep 7, 2016 00:19
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You Am I posted:Sorry if this question has been asked a number of times in this thread, but what's the best way of removing brake dust from alloy wheels? Use one of the cleaners that reacts chemically with the brake dust. They turn purple on the wheel. Sonax Full Effect is a thread favorite, but is on the expensive side. Agitate with a brush and hose/powerwash off.
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Sep 7, 2016 13:07
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Humbug posted:Use one of the cleaners that reacts chemically with the brake dust. They turn purple on the wheel. Sonax Full Effect is a thread favorite, but is on the expensive side. Agitate with a brush and hose/powerwash off. I used the Sonax Full Effect and this Meguiar's stuff and they both did the job at the same level. Use was on BMW wheels with their notorious brake dust buildup. You can buy 3 bottles of the Meg's for the price of 1 bottle of Sonax, and you can get it at Wal-Mart or any of your local part stores. I had to order the Sonax off Amazon.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:24
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Chiming in to say I use Diablo Wheel Cleaner and it works amazingly.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:48
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If I'm going to be painting my steel wheels, what's the best way to prep them with the tires still on? Obviously I'll be masking all the non-wheel parts, just curious whether anyone has any prep or product recommendations.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:59
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scuz posted:If I'm going to be painting my steel wheels, what's the best way to prep them with the tires still on? Obviously I'll be masking all the non-wheel parts, just curious whether anyone has any prep or product recommendations. When I did my Forester steelies, I used a red Scotchbrite pad and did:
I was spending about an hour and a half on prep per wheel and about an hour of actually laying colour (including drying times - if you have a moist climate you probably want to wait for the primer coats to tack up more before you start laying down the big stuff - always follow the primer can for drying instructions before hitting a top coat, even if you've missed the "touch up" window and have to wait 24+ hours for a full cure). The nice thing is that if you have other obligations you can "move" the prep time around - for the week coming up to the paint job I would go into the garage for 10-15 minutes and scuff the poo poo out of some wheels before work, etc. You'll be tempted to put them vertically against a wall but you shouldn't. Put them flat on your cardboard with the front of the wheel facing up, and make passes from multiple different directions as you lay down paint to make sure you don't "shadow" the wheel or the rim of the wheel with the valve stem. Use a can gun and do test passes before pulling the trigger to make sure your pattern and distance from the wheel is even throughout the stroke. I like to get two cans and use one can for the first few passes on each wheel and then the second can for the final few passes, because the bottom half of the can never seems to spray as well as the top half. I also like to "open up" a can by spraying it against a test piece of cardboard because sometimes the cheaper stuff likes to spurt on their first hit. If it's cold or you plan on spraying continuously for a long time (the propellant cools the can as it is expelled), you can prevent globbing by warming the cans in a bowl of warm water before and between passes. If for some reason your wheel has centre caps, don't just blast them directly on the cardboard, get a Coke can and put them on top so that you can be sure to get an even coat on the sides. If you are painting the back side of the wheel, I would prioritize cleaning and painting that side first. Not only is it way filthier, but if you gently caress up you learn your lessons on the side that nobody else sees. You can never have too much lighting, either. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 20:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The Wheel Painting Bible
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Sep 8, 2016 21:39
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I've only ever painted steelies so there's probably more things to worry about with aluminum or magnesium wheels.
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Sep 8, 2016 21:56
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I currently use meguiars ultimate liquid wax and go over it with ultimate spray wax. It produces a great shine but doesn't seem to hold up long enough on my Prius C in moon glow pearl. Does anyone have suggestions for something that lasts longer? I got about 1.5 months out of the last wax job. I have used zaino in the past with layers of meguiars carnuba over top but I can't seem to find the blue cans anymore.
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Sep 13, 2016 04:18
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rdb posted:I currently use meguiars ultimate liquid wax and go over it with ultimate spray wax. It produces a great shine but doesn't seem to hold up long enough on my Prius C in moon glow pearl. Does anyone have suggestions for something that lasts longer? I got about 1.5 months out of the last wax job. I have used zaino in the past with layers of meguiars carnuba over top but I can't seem to find the blue cans anymore. Blue cans? If you are talking about Meg's Mirror Glaze #16 it got discontinued, at least in the USA, because it wasn't VOC compliant. I'm pretty sure it happened many years ago.
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Sep 13, 2016 06:03
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That's the stuff. Hard to remove but lasted a real long time.
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Sep 13, 2016 10:22
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Scott808 posted:Blue cans? If you are talking about Meg's Mirror Glaze #16 it got discontinued, at least in the USA, because it wasn't VOC compliant. I'm pretty sure it happened many years ago. Still available to buy outside of US and ship in, though. There's some component in it that is frowned upon by the US, if I remember correctly. Great stuff, I have two cans left, but I'm usually too lazy to use it. I've found the new polymer thingies work as well, just easier.
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Sep 13, 2016 11:43
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So my interior has a musty smell to it. I've tried using an ozone generator on it for two half hour sessions and I still smell it a bit. I'm thinking I'll try and wet vac the carpets and then ozone it again and see if that makes a difference. What wet vac is recommended? I saw this cheap, highly rated one on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Armor-Gallon-Utility-Vacuum-AA255/dp/B003M2F7NI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473766338&sr=8-3&keywords=wet+vac
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Sep 13, 2016 12:32
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meatpimp posted:Still available to buy outside of US and ship in, though. There's some component in it that is frowned upon by the US, if I remember correctly. So what would you recommend for a long lived sealant or wax? Is zymol titanium any good?
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Sep 13, 2016 15:14
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Is this still a good go-to starter for my first few own personal washes and then I add more in-depth products to it?
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Sep 13, 2016 19:29
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rdb posted:So what would you recommend for a long lived sealant or wax? Is zymol titanium any good? Collinite 845 playa!
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Sep 13, 2016 21:05
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rdb posted:So what would you recommend for a long lived sealant or wax? Is zymol titanium any good? I have had reasonable success with Collinite 915 lasting through most of rough cold winters. Fusso Coat 12 months is all the rage in Europe right now. Cheap, and supposedly very long lasting. I've only had it on for a few weeks so i cant comment on its longevity yet, but it beads nicely. Both products can be bastards to work with though, and the fusso has an awful chemical smell.
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Sep 13, 2016 21:20
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always be closing posted:Collinite 845 playa! This right here. There's no easier answer for "I don't want to get super nerdy about waxes, and I don't wan to have to reapply more than twice a year"
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Sep 13, 2016 23:28
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Thanks for the wheel cleaning suggestions guys. I'm getting the Meguiar's stuff as it is the only one that's available in Australia
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Sep 13, 2016 23:31
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