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In the vein of the Tamiya chat on the last page, is this the right thread to talk about Tamiya mini-4WD? I just bought my first car last weekend, and have two more being shipped to me. It seems almost unheard of in the states, but is quite popular where I currently live. Not to mention, cheap as hell to get into. Just curious where the best place to talk shop is on SA. A picture of my current toy: 
CovfefeCatCafe fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Aug 26, 2016 |
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Aug 26, 2016 06:41
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YF19pilot posted:In the vein of the Tamiya chat on the last page, is this the right thread to talk about Tamiya mini-4WD? I just bought my first car last weekend, and have two more being shipped to me. It seems almost unheard of in the states, but is quite popular where I currently live. Not to mention, cheap as hell to get into. Just curious where the best place to talk shop is on SA. What a cute car! is it rc?? Just googled tamya mini 4wd I really want one of these or the mini losi. They look like a total blast!
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Aug 27, 2016 20:26
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YF19pilot posted:In the vein of the Tamiya chat on the last page, is this the right thread to talk about Tamiya mini-4WD? I just bought my first car last weekend, and have two more being shipped to me. It seems almost unheard of in the states, but is quite popular where I currently live. Not to mention, cheap as hell to get into. Just curious where the best place to talk shop is on SA. Slot cars. I remember this stuff being sold in the mall nearly 15+ years ago and they even had events where they set up huge tracks. I had this one  , among others, but I didn't put much money into any of them. You could get all kinds of stuff for it, specially geared rims, foam tires, and all sorts of spoilers, and of course faster motors. Not RC, you just put batteries in them and they are guided along by the track walls. Or you can put them in the tub and watch them do loops. I actually rebought the Beak Spider a couple years ago and just have it to have it.
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Aug 28, 2016 00:50
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Ha ha ha what the hell? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtwkRd6zHwg
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Aug 28, 2016 04:39
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I'm still learning more and researching a ton. It's been helpful that most of the content from Indonesia and other SEA nations has been in English, but hard to find a true "beginner's guide" or some such. From what I gather, there's 11 different types of chassis layouts; though not all are in production. MA is the newest hotness, being a combination of two older systems, basically combining the motor layout from one and the add-on parts from the other. Everything is modifiable, and to insane degrees if you're willing to put in extra work and use non-Tamiya sources (I've easily found 'aftermarket' motors on ebay that run at 90,000 rpm, compared to the stock 10,000 rpm and "pro" <20,000 rpm from Tamiya). Seems the current flavors are to run either MA or Super X for serious competition, but again, everything can be modified. My first/current build is the "Silwolf", which is a very stock, plain MA chassis car. I bought it, about $10 USD. In the short week that I've owned it, I've already thrown another $20-$30 into the car. Upgrades include the "starter" upgrade kit (bigger rollers and a weight dampener), faster motor (up to 17,500 rpm), a brake, and a guard protector to prevent the car from getting hooked on the top of the walls if it gets airborne. Right now I need to source some decent rechargeable batteries. The shop that sold me the car doesn't have them, and unfortunately I don't know enough about batteries to really know what I'm looking for, outside of NiMH seems to be the standard. Disposable AAs are dirt cheap, but I don't want to be tossing a ton of batteries into the garbage every weekend I want to have fun. For now, the Silwolf is going to be my 'walk-through' until I get a good understanding of what's going on. I wouldn't mind building a hardcore crazy speed machine, but that's for later. Some pics of how the car looks currently:   Also, got two new cars and a bunch of motors and wheels. Over-nighting parts from Japan   That Nissan was what I wanted to get as my first car, but the local shop only had a box in the display, but not for sale. The Raikiri is another MA chassis car, but I'll probably see how I can build it differently, or save it for when I decide to get stupid crazy with modifications. Basically there's the argument of speed track vs. technical track; and if I can learn how to set up for both, I'll probably have one car for each set up. And the Nissan for shits and giggles. Otherwise, the big challenge seems to be building a car that will be fast and stable on tracks purposely built to upset and destabilize the cars as best they can. Iznogood posted:Ha ha ha what the hell? I don't understand how you're supposed to react fast enough to control the car as it goes around the corners. Seems the winner just held the gas and didn't care until he won while others were pumping the trigger and whatnot. To contribute more, some rather tame videos that are out there of mini-4wd: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnzyli5ulMY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilvVc-KyDvQ
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Aug 28, 2016 17:22
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YF19pilot posted:
I have no idea. But if it was a video game it would be a question of rythme. And this might be what they are doing. As long as everything is fine they pretty much follow the "beat". Bet when something starts going wrong it all falls apart pretty fast. YF19pilot posted:To contribute more, some rather tame videos that are out there of mini-4wd: This looks much more reasonable! And cool I need to look into that. Looks like a better idea for a 6 year old then a rc.
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Aug 28, 2016 22:31
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Iznogood posted:Ha ha ha what the hell? YF19pilot posted:I don't understand how you're supposed to react fast enough to control the car as it goes around the corners. Seems the winner just held the gas and didn't care until he won while others were pumping the trigger and whatnot. This is the "far fringe" of slot car racing. Most of it is much more ... human speed. That said, slot car racing has essentially driven out the ameatur. And the community isn't exactly friendly. .....I tried a few years back.
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Aug 28, 2016 22:56
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Are those gold coloured objects on the inside poles weights to keep the front end down?
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Aug 29, 2016 00:34
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Mr. Apollo posted:Are those gold coloured objects on the inside poles weights to keep the front end down? Ever used a deadblow hammer? That's what those are doing. IIRC, those are brass. I want to say I've seen people use tugsten. They rattle to absorb the bounce, as the car doesn't actually have any suspension.
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Aug 29, 2016 03:07
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Mr. Apollo posted:Are those gold coloured objects on the inside poles weights to keep the front end down? Nerobro posted:Ever used a deadblow hammer? That's what those are doing. IIRC, those are brass. I want to say I've seen people use tugsten. They rattle to absorb the bounce, as the car doesn't actually have any suspension. Basically this. They're used to dampen any kind of rebound so that the car doesn't bounce after coming off a jump. Some of the upper tier cars are almost unreal in how they have almost no bounce.
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Aug 29, 2016 04:05
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I had a few of these cars when I was in grade school. They were cheap, and both tomy and a few other companies had them on the market. It's where I got my stockpile of 130 size motors. :-) ...is there a database of tracks. I'd so do this. Now, teh reason you want rechargeable batteries is for internal resistance, not because they're cheaper to use. You will go faster, or at least accelerate faster with NiMh or NiCd batteries.
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Aug 29, 2016 04:36
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Nerobro posted:I had a few of these cars when I was in grade school. They were cheap, and both tomy and a few other companies had them on the market. It's where I got my stockpile of 130 size motors. :-) I'm still researching stuff, but I have at least discovered one popular brand of parts made here in Taiwan; on top of the shop I go to selling their own stuff. Mostly pro-level stuff. I don't know about a database of tracks, but there is a track editor here: http://www.pimentoso.com/mini4wd-track-editor/ Otherwise, the basic 2-lane w/ cross over track from Tamiya is available in the US for $130-150 online. I've heard about the issues with internal resistance, but I'm wondering how much of a deal voltage is going to be (I know more voltage can mean more power, but I'm wondering how much that translates into speed). Alkalines are 1.5V, but most of the rechargeables are only 1.2V (so getting 2.4 instead of 3.0 with two batteries installed). I don't know if there are 1.5V NiMH batteries, and I saw some video going on about 3V batteries (is that even a thing?). I take it, though, that LiIon rechargeables are not conducive to this sort of abuse, since nobody talks about them. Mostly I want to move to rechargeable batteries because, like I said, I don't want to have to keep tossing batteries in the trash; seems very wasteful, even if I'd save money in the short term.
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Aug 29, 2016 04:48
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Alkaline batteries have insanely high internal resistance when compared to any decent rechargeable battery. The difference in voltage doesn't help enough to matter if you're actually drawing a significant current. A single lipo cell would be 3.7v. The tricky thing is to use them safely with some form of low voltage cutoff. If you can find some way to package a lipo cell and LVC circuit into that tiny car, you should see a significant boost in performance - more voltage and even lower resistance. Lipos kick the poo poo out of pretty much every other battery technology right now.
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Aug 29, 2016 05:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Alkaline batteries have insanely high internal resistance when compared to any decent rechargeable battery. The difference in voltage doesn't help enough to matter if you're actually drawing a significant current. Batteries are regulated in classes like that. And Tamiya is really anal about it. They often don't even like aftermarket hopups that aren't tamiya approved.
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Aug 29, 2016 05:22
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Yeah, for official competitions you have to use Tamiya batteries. They also do car inspections, and using aftermarket and knock-off motors can cause trouble. I'll probably pick up some rechargeable batteries from a local shop then. I saw some NiMH batteries for sale the other day. Though lipo sounds crazy, but I don't think I'll get that deep into the woods yet. Maybe when I decide to get that 90,000 rpm eBay motor from Thailand.
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Aug 29, 2016 06:27
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Hooray, double posting. Here's another slow-mo video. I just put this kit together this morning (I have the red version), and have been reading a lot about how it's got a very high c.o.g. and prone to roll overs. Watching this video, I think the only reason it makes it through the course is because the camera car is much more stable and pulls it out of trouble. The way it goes through corners is just hilarious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2Tj0DDg4pM Apparently the chassis it's on is an old chassis originally released in the 1980s. I'm tempted to keep it stock (though I already threw the larger rollers that were left over from my Silwolf onto mine). Maybe I'll buy a second kit to turn into a speed machine. It's a cute car and I'd love to do crazy things with it.
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Aug 29, 2016 16:22
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YF19pilot posted:It's a cute car and I'd love to do crazy things with it. 
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Aug 29, 2016 17:18
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Lucky me! Was looking for a chrysler 300 body for my nitro because I own and love the 300 with a passion not because of performance this is for show mainly. The HPI one (and only one as far as I know) was discontinued but I found someone closeby who was selling the body+wheels for 60 CAN$. HPI 1/10 bodies shipped are 49 CAN$ on ebay and the wheels are HPI I don't know how much they are worth but I am sure I made a great deal again. Especially given how rare what I was looking for was. It's pretty much new and he did a great paint job with a clear pearl then black finish. My car is grey so I am contemplating redoing the paint.. ordered new front mounting posts since mine were truncated and I now need the height. incredibly the wheels do not bind at all. I'll have to make new holes for the engine, etc.. and the holes in the back do not fit perfectly so some modification there too but otherwise it fits like a glove. This hobby!!   
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Aug 29, 2016 18:30
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Sooo i'm working on a kit, it's a sakura C3 and the axles don't seem to fit together right  The instructions seem to show the axle should go THROUGH that hole, is that why the instructions call for a body reamer? I need to make the hole bigger?   No clue but it's odd.
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Aug 30, 2016 01:14
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The pulley mounts to the diff spool using the 3 holes closest to the center hole. Then the outdrives go into the spool.
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Sep 1, 2016 22:58
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Mini-4wd Photodump. So, I've decided to break into trying to do crazy fast. The owner wasn't at the shop, but some regulars were very helpful to get me started. Last week I bought another car and put it together to be my "cute and crazy" fast car. It has lived up to both of those adjectives, so far. First, my current stable of built cars. I still have one unbuilt car:  I got to the track, and discovered I had forgotten to charge my batteries. I finally buy the things and forget to get them ready to use. So, using some alkalines, I put the Silwolf (black car) and the Nissan around. Both pitifully slow, though the lady who was running the shop thought the Nissan was cute and wouldn't let me end it's run early. It was a bit funny watching it barely make it over the jump. So, let's get crazy. This is everything I'm throwing into the Shirokumakko Super II:  Not a single official Tamiya part. All of these are Taiwanese. "Speed Light" is the name of the shop that I buy from, so those are parts branded by the store. Toxic seems to be a big-name for the "Pro" builders, and the other one I haven't really heard of. Oh wait, one Tamiya part:  23,600rpm For comparison, the stock motor only makes about 8,000 rpm, so I'm pushing 3 times as fast. This is faster than the motor in the Silwolf as well, by a good margin.A few minutes later and some grunting:  This is the result! The top rear rollers aren't as high as I'd like them to be, so I'll have to play around with spacers and things. Also, very important to have the appropriately sized screws:  The car is very unhappy. Also had to file the edges of the front bumper to fit the carbon piece. Though, since I'm attempting to go full on with this thing, I'm tempted to find a Dremel and cut off the excess bumper that I'm not using. I wish I had video'd the one run I managed to make with this thing tonight. Started in lane 1, jumped into lane 2 around the first set of corners, but then got stuck riding the wall, so actually didn't really make it that far in the run. I made a few changes to the setup, but I haven't taken a photo or had a chance to run it yet. Though, I did finally understand what was posted in the thread about batteries. Right as the store was closing (or well, the mini-mall that the store is part of), I had one more run of the Nissan with the rechargeable NiMH batteries I bought. It was, while still slow, actually noticeably faster than with the alkaline batteries. All in all, I'm convinced that was a good buy. On the other hand, tonight I just spent about $50 on trying to make a $12 toy car go fast.
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Sep 3, 2016 17:33
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^^^^NEED THAT^^^^^^^ Still need to take pics of everything but I think I scored another great deal! Same guy who exchange his nitro for my tablet. I wanted one of those Losi micro cars because they looked so loving cute and fun. Asked around and was about to buy a 160 CAN$ new in the box Losi micro crawler when the nitro guy told me he had something I should look at. Package: Losi micro rally x (fully op all aluminium, new servo, looks new) with the original box everything. 3 Losi micro rally (brushed) dismantled, sorted and stored in a box. new Spektrum DX2e transmitter (while not fantastic does the job perfectly well) 6 sets of tires (everything from drift to mini monster truck wheels) 4 bodies total (rally x, 2 kinda like a slash body? and one truggy) Tools for everything Includes new in bag motors, servos, other aluminum upgrades. 150 CAN$ What a deal! So cute!  Scale!  Great runs yesterday with the nitro 4-tec 3.3 at a local club. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c00Z6tzTb3o
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Sep 4, 2016 10:28
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Welp, I'm back guys. Friend let me drive his crawler yesterday. Finally placed an order for the Trail Finder 2 I've been looking at for years. Did some inventory of the cars I still have. Monster GT still needs a piston and sleeve and a new head (moronically cross-threaded the glow plug the last time I worked on it). RC10GT needs to have its spare engine swapped in. Otherwise they're just waiting for receivers.
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Sep 4, 2016 15:12
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Meathole posted:So I got back into R/C a couple of years ago. I had a few Team Asociated cars I bought 10-20 years ago and drug them back out. Converted my original RC10T to brushless with a cheap Hobbyking setup and ran it on 3S, but it was just too much power. Blew up the stock engine in my NTC-3, so I stuffed an OS .18 in there and it's just about perfect. About 3 years ago, I decided to go big, so I bought a new MGT 8.0. The .50 engine was a piece of poo poo, and it finally seized about 2 years ago and I shelved the truck. I was so sick of having to fix something or fiddle with the tuning every time I took it out I just didn't want to deal with it anymore. Whoa, I've got an MGT 4.6 that I would love to convert to brushless. I noticed that AE makes this now https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/Rival_Monster_Truck/LiPo_Combo/ which is just a brushless MGT. Where did you get your kit?
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Sep 4, 2016 16:52
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kuffs posted:Whoa, I've got an MGT 4.6 that I would love to convert to brushless. I noticed that AE makes this now https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/Rival_Monster_Truck/LiPo_Combo/ which is just a brushless MGT. Where did you get your kit? I think I got the conversion kit through RC Monster: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=Electric+Motor+Mount+-+AE+MGT%2FThunder+Tiger+MTa4 I was actually out running the truck just an hour or so ago. I am still running it through the stock transmission/t-case locked in 2nd gear with a forward-only kit from when it was nitro. If I had to do it over again, I think I would take the time, money, and brain power to put together a center-mounted diff conversion(like a buggy or on-road), but it works just fine as is. I have found that moderate gears are mandatory if you want to run more than 1 battery pack through it. On 4S with a 17T pinion is an absolute beast(still a beast with ANY pinion you can stuff in there), but no matter how you drive, the motor will be at 160F with 1 pack, unless you're just put-putting around the yard and taking some jumps. The tranny gets hot too, as hot as the motor, and I did have to replace it once after it knocked a tooth off inside the case. It's a ton of weight to move around, and there is absolutely no way to dissipate the heat unless its freezing cold outside. I have a dragonslayer heatsink(biggest I could find, with a fan) with holes in the nitro body, and you can still melt the thing to the ground if you're not mindful. However, I would not put anything less than a Castle/Tekin/Novak/Hobbyking motor that is rated for extreme use. I had a Team Orion Vortex 8 that I destroyed in under 5 minutes on 4S in my buggy. Went from room temperature to completely demagnetized magnets and over 200 degrees in that time. The MM is more........forgiving let's say when it comes to the temps it will put up with. What I'm saying is, do not think(like I did) that you can run 6S and have a 60MPH+ monster truck to bash around with for an hour at a time, it will not happen. Well, unless you somehow can get a mount to put a 1/5 scale motor in it or have some kind of forced-air cooling system, but then you'll probably destroy the tranny and melt the bearings out of everything. It's actually a perfect truck on 3S or 4S. Even with 3S it'll still wheelie at any speed, and trying to control this thing at high speed without some sort of yaw control(I have Traxxas Tqi with AVC or whatever they call a gyro) is very dicey unless you set it up for it. I'm all about having over-powered toys, but compared to my 8ight buggy and Inferno GT2, the truck is really not that fun with the speed an power cranked to 11, unless you like breaking something every 2 minutes, or have a giant grass/gravel field and are watching temps very closely. I do not run mine on concrete, because I always want to have some slip at the tires to keep the shock loads down. I would love to get a 1/8th truggy or something similar that had big tires(to go across grass) but weighed 4 or 5 pounds less to really have some speed fun off-road. I even put a 1/2 pound of steel all the way out at the front bumper to help keep the front end down. It worked a little, but these trucks are very very wheelbase-limited when it comes to trying to get them to move forward instead of flipping upside-down. Do not let any of this dissuade you though, I would never stuff another nitro motor in this thing, I don't care how torquey or fast it is. edit: If you have not already, spend the money on a GOOD servo for steering. I've had a few ~200 oz-in servos in various 1/8 cars, and they are all poo poo in something this big and heavy. I now have a Savox with about 400 oz-in($80) and it is perfect. Meathole fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Sep 4, 2016 |
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Sep 4, 2016 22:20
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Well I've got some news for you. In the interim I did a bit of research and found this guy that makes kits http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunder-tig...5wAAOxyJX1TDZNs for center-diff MGTs. You need to source your own center diff and center driveshafts, but that's it right there. I've already got some absurd Chinese HV servo in it right now, I think it's rated for 450oz/in? All that said, ordering a new piston and sleeve + head was a lot cheaper than putting together an electronics setup to run in this thing. If I wanted to dump $450 in it, I'd probably be better off buying an RTR monster truck with running gear in it already.
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Sep 5, 2016 23:35
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Also somewhere I managed to source what seems to be an extremely rare slipper clutch for the MGT. It's got a steel spur and everything. When I start putting the truck together I'll see if I can find the original manual for the slipper clutch and you might be able to find one of your own. Probably make it a little easier to handle.
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Sep 5, 2016 23:36
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 Went out on Labor Day to drive some 1/5 scales. All of the cars ran awesome and we got plenty of wheel time before retiring for various things. The VEKTA lost the center front set screw so I was RWD for about 30 seconds before breaking the steering servo right off of the radio box. The Kraken converted long arm Baja in the middle stripped one wheel and broke the entire center out of another wheel which finished it for the day. The Mini Cooper was a hero but the air filter plugged up from the sand which was about as fine as talcum powder. Not pictured was another Baja that also had the air filter plug up after many repeated trips up an enormous berm. It was my first outing with a new tuned pipe for the VEKTA. I had originally intended to only use a muffler to keep the noise down but drat that buggy is so much fun with more power. I cannot wait to cook the top end so I can get a ported cylinder, might even go with a long stroke crank to bump it to 34cc. The Baja in the middle was running a mod/ported 34cc motor with a matching pipe and it would lift the front end off of the ground with ease.
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Sep 8, 2016 16:22
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
Was at a local track last weekend and there where 1/5 baja races. I want one of those so bad. Monsters compared to my rustler. One day! I almost bought one at a great price before I realised that as good as the price might be this is not a rustler. When I break things cost goes up real quick. So one day when I can afford the right equipment and spare parts. In other news I had to replace my clutch shoes on my nitro. Nerve wrecking but quite the satisfaction when he ran again like it never happened. Question! I need suggestions. My gf and I decided to buy her 7 year old to be daughter a real rc. She loves running with me but she has one of those crappy toys. I am pretty much set on finding a used rustler but a basic one (xl-5) not a monster like mine. My reasoning is: a: guaranteed she can go where I can go b: sharing parts with my rustler makes maintenance easy and simple c: can be had pretty cheap used but I guess this goes for any rc I know I could go with something less expensive and more durable but I am not convinced. So anyone has experience or a opinion? Thanks!
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Sep 8, 2016 21:14
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Kinda burnt out with on road touring car racing, looking at going back to the Tamiya Mini (M05) class
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Sep 8, 2016 23:24
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And there we go again another fantastic better than real life deal. Again by the same guy who exchanged his notro for my tablet and then sold me all the micro losi's for 150. This time his friend has two Losi 4WD TEN-SCT which are in different stages of rebuilt. He is honest that at least another 150$ CAN has to be put on them(or one) to be drivable. 80$ still sounds like nothing for a lot of rc. I have seen a couple of pictures and the are a ton of parts brand new in bags the guy was building a new one from scratch and had a old one. Electronics are there too. But the one engine is a used nitro. No idea if it runs. So yeah I cannot see myself passing this but on the off chance this is a really bad idea I am posting it here. I Guess it's a terrible idea if there are no parts available or if the kit is just garbage but from the looks of it it is not a hated rc.
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Sep 9, 2016 01:52
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Losi typically makes good stuff. They are one of the top brands.
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Sep 9, 2016 13:18
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Kibner posted:Losi typically makes good stuff. They are one of the top brands. Thanks! Yeah I told the guy I'd take it. In the pics I can count at least 25 losi bags with brand new parts in them including electronics, a new chassis, wheels, body, and pics of the second rc that looks pretty used(at least dirty as hell) and half built/unbuilt. My guess is the guy had one in bad shape and decided to build a second one from scratch using some of the parts from the old one. I know he is fed up with the project and just wants to get rid of it thus the deal. Quite the kit. Still it is not complete. Hopefuly the engine is not dead and I am only a couple of screws, bits and elbow grease away from a complete car. But I paid pretty much that(80 CAN$ that's like 60-ish$ USD) for Doom and I bet I'll thinker on this longer then I played the game (that was excellent). Here are the pics I got. Looking at the engine on my computer I realise it's just the filter that's dirty the engine itself looks very sharp. Also looks like 3 chassis or one is very clean under it who knows! I'll know soon I am picking it up tonight!        Iznogood fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 13:32
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You can check the engines by rotating the flywheel. If it rotates smoothly and seems to have good compression you're in good shape. Does Losi still use remote start tech? I think they should have got on HPI's rotostart bandwagon.
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Sep 9, 2016 15:08
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kuffs posted:You can check the engines by rotating the flywheel. If it rotates smoothly and seems to have good compression you're in good shape. I'll be sure to check that thanks! I'm pretty excited and this is the first rc I get that it will probably months before I see it run for the first time. Guess that will be quite the moment. As usual I am way too excited about all this. The deals from this guy are so good I half-jokingly expect he is working me into a long time con ha ha. Reeling me in with amazing deals before making me put down 100k on some ferrari dream car and run away. But the reality is probably exactly what he states: bunch of friends who where into rc are slowly getting rid of it and I am the lucky guy getting it all. I meen he's still trying to sell me a e10 drifter converted to a racer for 150? Not really interested in that but it is still a good deal. Also trying to sell me his upgraded 1/16 e-revo. Went to his house met his family it's all really legit.
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Sep 9, 2016 19:28
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Getting it later today. Turns out it's a Losi Ten-t not a sct. Seems it just makes it a better deal yet. I don't think I am getting the controller so that's a good sum of cash I'll have to put down. I'll be fixed soon enough cannot wait to see the "kit". edit: and the deed is done. What a deal! So it's 1.5 Losi ten-t's plus a brand new conversion kit to sct including chassis and everything. Brand new in bags ross starting system motor and electronics. No controller and no wheels. One body. all in all it looks like to complete a Ten-t (or sct) I am missing 2 shocks. I have everything else to have one car running. The engine is a little stiff but it turns so it should be ok. I have enough to build 2/3 of another ten-t but this one would need a engine and everything on it would be old/quite used (ross starting system, servo, etc..). Also a new air filter and air filter cover. I'll have to inventory everything but there are at least 25 Losi parts bag still sealed. About the same in parts in zipploc bags or losi parts bag but opened. For 80$CAN it's just mad. What I am wondering now is what is the cheapest controller I could buy that would support the ross start system. I guess it needs a button for that. So my TQi2.4 is out.. I thyink I need a 3 channels one? Iznogood fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 11:07
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I know this thread is all hobby-grade stuff, but does anyone have a toy-grade recommendation for my 5 year old? I'd like to get him a real basic monster truck / buggy or whatever. I don't really care if it's fast, but I would ideally like to get him something with proportional steering / throttle so he could maybe learn throttle control. Since it's probably going to be a xmas gift, it would be run indoors initially so maybe something that could crawl over small stuff. I found this thing but the throttle and steering is not proportional https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIRMAPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=34WMGH4KVD7Q0&coliid=I29L3U1CY34Q11
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Sep 13, 2016 19:20
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I would check out the HPI Q32, fully proportional and pretty awesome https://hpiracing.world/search?q=Q32
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Sep 13, 2016 21:09
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I would check out the HPI Q32, fully proportional and pretty awesome https://hpiracing.world/search?q=Q32 Ha ha another cute little rc. I'll have to get my hands on one of these. Seem rare as poo poo here in Canada. I am having a surprinsingly lot of fun with my losi micro rally x. What a little beast with big tires and a truggy body. Well I have tinkered and worked on the team losi racing ten-t/sct I bought for 80$. With all the old/new parts, 3 chassis and everything I was quite confused at first. After looking at it for a while I decided to just rebuild the original Ten-t. I used every old parts I found that was in great to perfect shape. I completely rebuilt one Ten-t using no new parts at all. It still needs what has been missing all along (two front shocks tubes(sp) and rods have everything else, servo, wheels and receiver emitter). I am left with enough old parts to build everything but shocks (and engine,electronics) for the other ten-t body I have. And still enough new parts to build a all new ten-sct on the new sct chassis I have (and carbon shock towers, so many upgrades). Still no shocks and engine here but do have a complete ross start system brand new. The guy obviously was done with his ten-t's and wanted a sct. All this is, after reading enough forums, with everything upgraded that should be on a ten-t ( 3 clutch shoe brand new and clutch bell, diffs, king pins, etc..). A bag full of tubes of bearings too. The guy was a racer and it shows. So many spare parts for what could break. And all the good upgrades. Now I am thinking about keeping the ten-t as is and going for the electric conversion on the sct. Lots of options here and a not insignificant amount of money to put in. My question from the last post kinda got lost but I was wondering if there was a cheaper option for a radio then the spektrum DX3S. It needs that start button for the ross start system.
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Sep 15, 2016 18:39
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I would check out the HPI Q32, fully proportional and pretty awesome https://hpiracing.world/search?q=Q32 Thanks for this, it looks really cool. Talking with my wife about it, it wouldn't make sense though as he would probably want to drive something in the yard with me. Might be something I have on my wishlist, though 
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Sep 15, 2016 21:05
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