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I failed my oath this month, but still got a bunch of stuff done.   Plus this gross thing I almost finished 
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Sep 1, 2016 22:09
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Those are super gross and cool looking.
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Sep 1, 2016 22:34
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Arson Fire posted:I failed my oath this month, but still got a bunch of stuff done. What are those from? Look great!
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Sep 1, 2016 22:37
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w00tmonger posted:What are those from? Look great! "The Others" from CMON.
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Sep 1, 2016 23:22
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Is there such a thing as true black/grey static grass? I'm trying an experiment with monochrome, but all the images for black static grass on Amazon are very hard to discern detail Edit: It's fabric based, isn't it? Could I RIT dye some white flock?
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Sep 2, 2016 18:15
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:Is there such a thing as true black/grey static grass? I'm trying an experiment with monochrome, but all the images for black static grass on Amazon are very hard to discern detail 
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Sep 2, 2016 18:18
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OH OK
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Sep 2, 2016 18:58
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Just have to make sure quick here, but vlaada isn't a goon right?
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Sep 2, 2016 22:12
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Just wanted to ask if anyone has used - http://www.warcolours.com/ Paints look nice, and pretty cheap (I'm loving the fluorescent pink), and they have a set of sable brushes for cheap, too. It's about £3 postage, don't want to waste much money picking up some single paints if they're crap!
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Sep 2, 2016 23:13
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:Is there such a thing as true black/grey static grass? I'm trying an experiment with monochrome, but all the images for black static grass on Amazon are very hard to discern detail Ok so, I was messing around with some of this recently because I wanted to do a monochrome nightfighting scheme for my FoW army. I gave up because OSL in 15mm is really a lot harder than I thought it would be. But anyways what I did was use dill weed that I dyed black with artist ink. This works a lot better than doing a traditional static grass because when you do mono schemes you want that really stark contrasting shading on everything and once you dye the dill you can drybrush it with grey/white to get a good stark look while static grass doesn't paint that well in my experience. If anyone would be interested in me writing up something on making your own flock/basing materials I could do that. As someone may remember I was in the process of starting a company that was going to be the only company making biodegradable/renewable resource/ethically sourced basing materials a few years back but we had someone basically steal all of our seed money and by the time we got it back everyone had moved on. Suffice to say the actual stuff they make basing materials out of is not terribly good for you to be in contact with on a regular basis and a lot of it is made from stuff that's not really that good for the environment (if that's a thing people care about).
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Sep 2, 2016 23:47
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Amphigory posted:Just wanted to ask if anyone has used - http://www.warcolours.com/ I ordered a bunch of them awhile back and was overall quite happy. Worth noting that the normal paints require 3+ layers to get decent coverage, even straight out of the pot. They released a basecoat set more recently, not sure how those fared. Otherwise they were very true to color, never require shaking and applied nicely.
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Sep 2, 2016 23:54
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Full Circle posted:I ordered a bunch of them awhile back and was overall quite happy. Worth noting that the normal paints require 3+ layers to get decent coverage, even straight out of the pot. They released a basecoat set more recently, not sure how those fared. Otherwise they were very true to color, never require shaking and applied nicely. Cool - thanks man. I really don't need any more paints, but I got some money burning a hole in my Paypal, and I love that pink...
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Sep 3, 2016 00:01
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:OH OK Reverse image search gives: http://www.ebay.it/itm/WWS-4mm-Black-Flock-Static-Grass-Hornby-Peco-Railway-Scenery-/182206680838
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Sep 3, 2016 12:52
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Ok so, I was messing around with some of this recently because I wanted to do a monochrome nightfighting scheme for my FoW army. I gave up because OSL in 15mm is really a lot harder than I thought it would be. But anyways what I did was use dill weed that I dyed black with artist ink. This works a lot better than doing a traditional static grass because when you do mono schemes you want that really stark contrasting shading on everything and once you dye the dill you can drybrush it with grey/white to get a good stark look while static grass doesn't paint that well in my experience. I care about it and you should started on that idea again!
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Sep 3, 2016 15:29
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Ok so, I was messing around with some of this recently because I wanted to do a monochrome nightfighting scheme for my FoW army. I gave up because OSL in 15mm is really a lot harder than I thought it would be. But anyways what I did was use dill weed that I dyed black with artist ink. This works a lot better than doing a traditional static grass because when you do mono schemes you want that really stark contrasting shading on everything and once you dye the dill you can drybrush it with grey/white to get a good stark look while static grass doesn't paint that well in my experience. I've already got dill weed, so I guess I will dye it and see how that works. Thanks for the tip. I, for one, would be very interested in hearing about your weird hippy basing material tutorials!
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Sep 3, 2016 17:17
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:I've already got dill weed, so I guess I will dye it and see how that works. Thanks for the tip. Used tea leaves make great basing flock. You of course dry it out first (generally 1 tea bag's worth of tea = 1 day of drying), and I find that it's best to give a watered-down layer of PVA over it afterwards to keep it on there, but it works quite well. Depending on the type of tea you can get different shades, mostly brown and green. Plentiful, too, as you can get 100 tea bags for like a buck in most places.
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Sep 3, 2016 18:04
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:I've already got dill weed, so I guess I will dye it and see how that works. Thanks for the tip. Ok so this is going to be a long post with a lot of images. I generally use a few things to make my basing materials. There's a number of places you can source your stuff from, I use Mountain Rose Herbs so all the links are going to be to there: For my dirt blend I generally use mostly walnut hull powder mixed with a very small amount of something slightly lighter in tone. I think this one is with some other fine ground bark or nut husk. Generally I favor husks, pits and barks because they retain their color better than organic material. I actually intentionally fade my grass and turf, but you'll have to either seal or dye them or they will fade because organic materials wash out with time:  For turf (non-static grass) I use a combination of Gymnema, Echinachea and Neem because they're all cheap, are very powdery and have good color. Boldo leaf is my chosen "filler" because it's very cheap and easy to dye. If I want to dye the turf I'll use a mixture of future, vallejo green ink and FolkArt moss green. Other times I'll just use a thin coat of GW or SW green wash. Generally I'd advise only using the dye on whatever the main bulk of your mixture will be and keeping the others "normal" in order to maintain a variety of colors and textures. This is the point where if you're going for a deep forest or jungle theme you would add in something with a chunkier leaf size, like various herbs you buy in the grocery or cheap green tea from tea bags.  As I mentioned earlier for static grass I use mostly dill weed. I tend to not use the stuff you get in grocery stores because the individual little hairs (or w/e you call them) are usually smaller than if you buy from a company that sells bulk herbs. I usually dust it with whatever I'm going to be using as turf as well to maintain some cohesion. If you want your grass to stay colorful you need to dye it. Sealing it will help it retain some of its color and tone but a good dye will be 100% effective. I generally split up the grass into several different bins and use different blends of ink in each one (usually green artists ink or Vallejo dark green, vallejo yellow green and other blends involving future and paint). Then after I dye them I mix them back together to form a blend with a variety of tones.  You can use inks, washes and water effects gel applied over them to vary your colors and tones. If you mix the walnut hull powder with water effects it forms a very viscous mud gel that you can use to spread on bases. NWS This is a lighter blend for the dirt, favoring the boldo or senna over the walnut hull powders. It's then been colored using (IIRC) Vallejo Dark Brown ink and some very light drybrushing: http://i.imgur.com/3npRAmB.jpg This is a base of dirt with some patches of 50/50 turf/dirt mix spread over it. Then I put down a bit of the drybrush color and followed that up with some light water effects:  A mix of the dirt with patches of flock again, a bit of dye has been used to vary the color of the dirt:  Speedpainted Celt with a base with a mixture of dirt, dyed turf and traditional basing sand:  Terribad WGF Viking. The logs are dried dandelion root: 
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Sep 3, 2016 20:03
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What is the best way to seal a realm of battle board? I figure it has to be fairly robust to handle minis and terrain being placed on it a bunch, but I don't want it shiny. Matte sealers seem a little thin?
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Sep 4, 2016 06:03
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GreenMarine posted:What is the best way to seal a realm of battle board? I figure it has to be fairly robust to handle minis and terrain being placed on it a bunch, but I don't want it shiny. Matte sealers seem a little thin? Pledge FloorCare Multisurface Finish (the current name of much recommended Pledge Future Shine), and then a matte over the top would seem like the best way
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Sep 4, 2016 06:06
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Some more 15mm   2 goblins from Demon World 1 crystal from Secret Weapon 1 stand of giant rats from the Thanquol & Boneripper kit
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Sep 5, 2016 03:10
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Some more 15mm Are there more fantasy options in 10mm or 15mm?
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Sep 5, 2016 03:30
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goodness posted:Are there more fantasy options in 10mm or 15mm? I've been collecting a small catalog of what's available. Alot of it is old and the sculpts are poor and its very tough to find good pictures. Here's a list of some best places to shop Copplestone: http://www.copplestonecastings.co.uk/list.php?cat=18&page=1 Superb 15mm minis, but its only barbarians and some dwarfs. They also have a good 10mm range. Demonworld: http://www.ralparthaeurope.co.uk/shop/demonworld-15mm-c-76/ The range is 20 years old but huge, with sculpt quality at both ends of the spectrum. Usually have good pictures so you can tell what you're getting. Khurasan: http://khurasanminiatures.tripod.com/15mmfantasy.html Some decent and lots of meh. The skeletons look like the best 15mm skellies I've seen, and plan to pick some up Splinteredlight: http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/ Another wide range, but its mostly bad. There's some good sculpts lurking in there but they're hard to find because the paintjobs are often not great. (special note, they are gonna be offering these soon: http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=421449 and they look baller) 15mm.co.uk: http://www.15mm.co.uk/ A few good things here, and plenty of weird and miserable sculpts Battle Valor Games: http://www.battlevalorgames.com/ New kid on the block, putting out new stuff pretty regularly and building a large range. Sculpt quality seems average, but I think it'll improve over time You can pad some of this out with historical 15mm, but beware scale creep! Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 5, 2016 03:57
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What do you do with 10-15mm fantasy?
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Sep 5, 2016 04:04
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GoodBee posted:What do you do with 10-15mm fantasy? Warmaster I would imagine.
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Sep 5, 2016 04:29
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GreenMarine posted:What is the best way to seal a realm of battle board? I figure it has to be fairly robust to handle minis and terrain being placed on it a bunch, but I don't want it shiny. Matte sealers seem a little thin? Which board? I would be cagey about sealing it after putting flock down since that could end up kinda weird. Matte varnish should probably do it; the only damage any of my boards have ever taken has been when somebody scraped a piece of terrain across it and left a gouge in the grass flock.
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Sep 5, 2016 04:59
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Warmaster I would imagine. I thought that was on multi-figure square/rectangular bases? His look like single figure rounds.
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Sep 5, 2016 05:17
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SRM posted:Which board? I would be cagey about sealing it after putting flock down since that could end up kinda weird. Matte varnish should probably do it; the only damage any of my boards have ever taken has been when somebody scraped a piece of terrain across it and left a gouge in the grass flock. Its the shattered realm for fantasy. No flock on it. I'll post an image for comments soon as I've neary finished the first tile.
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Sep 5, 2016 05:31
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GoodBee posted:What do you do with 10-15mm fantasy? I'm personally doing it for fun and to paint at a different scale. I've found 15mm to be good for learning new techniques. I am intentionally painting stuff that could fit into a game of frostgrave so that I could play it with out of town friends when they come to visit, assuming I get enough stuff painted E: comedy answer: using them as is in a 28mm game of AoS Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Sep 5, 2016 |
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Sep 5, 2016 05:51
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GoodBee posted:What do you do with 10-15mm fantasy? Mass scale battles that have more detail than 6mm. Or just to make units look better by having more miniatures.
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Sep 5, 2016 05:54
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Or you could play D&D in a smaller space. Or anything really; the world is your oyster mannnn
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Sep 5, 2016 06:24
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Ok so this is going to be a long post with a lot of images. Tremendously useful resource right here. I have most of these in my spice cabinet already, and a $5 bottle of spices will almost definitely last longer than a similarly priced bottle of miniature basing materials. I'll have to test out some spices and how much effort is needed to get it looking good.
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Sep 5, 2016 16:12
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I've been trying to improve my photography a bit so i've been taking a few photos of this guy Does anyone have any really good resources for taking photos of miniatures? The ones i've found so far are fairly basic and dont really go into too much detail.
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Sep 6, 2016 00:49
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Saw this posted somewhere else and was curious - is there any actual advantage of using something like this over simply sticking a model on a wine cork? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2066522358/miniature-holders-and-grips-for-painting-and-sculp
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Sep 6, 2016 02:52
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The one with the wire over the top is kind of cool.
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Sep 6, 2016 04:05
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_Gumby posted:I've been trying to improve my photography a bit so i've been taking a few photos of this guy This pic is pretty good, and Thexus himself looks dope. (Clean up your base rim though.) I feel like you just need some more overhead light when you're shooting, and you'd be pretty legit.
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Sep 6, 2016 04:30
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Here is the first tile of a 6 tile Shattered Dominion board. I'm setting this board in the realm of life, so it's following a recipe for that style from Warhammer TV. The fell chasm wells up with the water of life, the blood of Alarielle. So now I've got to figure out how I want to seal it and if I want to add realistic water to the water. The chasm has special rules. Any model that ends movement on it is destroyed on a roll of 1. A hero can claim the bridge at the start of their turn and re-roll hits, wounds, and saves that turn but cannot move. GreenMarine fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 6, 2016 06:02
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Zhent posted:Saw this posted somewhere else and was curious - is there any actual advantage of using something like this over simply sticking a model on a wine cork? The bar, essentially. It gives a third point of contact to help keep the mini from tilting. Speaking from experience re-doing some pieces due to fingerprints, I'm throwing money at it.
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Sep 6, 2016 08:57
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GreenMarine posted:Here is the first tile of a 6 tile Shattered Dominion board. I'm setting this board in the realm of life, so it's following a recipe for that style from Warhammer TV. The fell chasm wells up with the water of life, the blood of Alarielle. Looks awesome!
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Sep 6, 2016 13:30
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Zhent posted:Saw this posted somewhere else and was curious - is there any actual advantage of using something like this over simply sticking a model on a wine cork? Just thrown a tonne of money at them for this, I'm forever sticking fingerprints in the top of my models and this actually looks like a nice system. Pete
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Sep 6, 2016 13:41
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Backed, would love to be able to pledge for extra adapters though.
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Sep 6, 2016 13:59
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