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My in-law has a 2004 9-3 that I am somehow mechanically responsible for since I know at least something about cars. The driver's side seat belt has stopped reeling in and I've got a replacement belt ready. I can't find any youtube video or forum post describing how to best remove the B-pillar trim without breaking things. I don't have the Haynes manual either, in case there's any info there. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Aug 8, 2016 12:38
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Found this over at SaabCentral.quote:SaabCentral: Guide to remove B-Pillar? Also, it sounds like seat belts that suddenly become non-retractable are common in 9-3. Lots of posts asking about B pillar trim removal for seat belt replacement  Edit: it sounds like if you use your fingers to pry and go slow, you shouldn't break anything. JayKay fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Aug 8, 2016 |
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Aug 8, 2016 15:05
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Thanks a lot! Yes, driver's seat belts are quite dear at the junkyards, apparently they're no good. The car also has a defunct CD changer from what I've been told, and those cost a bundle too. I'll probably try to sort out an AUX jack instead if that's indeed the case.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:46
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On the other hand, when working with plastic over a decade old that's been exposed to heat cycles and light, something is likely to break! Go even slower. No pressure.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:47
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SCA Enthusiast posted:On the other hand, when working with plastic over a decade old that's been exposed to heat cycles and light, something is likely to break! Go even slower. No pressure. My driver's side upper window trim agrees with you wholeheartedly. I picked up 2x SID-2's recently off of eBay with the idea of practicing ribbon repair on them. Apparently the hot ( ) fix is to take a clothes iron/heat gun/soldering iron and a silicon baking sheet and re-melt the contacts. I figure I'll try it on the 2 donor sids before taking attempting the fix on my semi-good SID.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:59
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So I just found out that my SID2 and both the donor ones I got from eBay are apparently the weird SID2's that use SID1 ribbons. Doesn't really help when all I have are replacement SID2 ribbons. Ugh. At least I'm getting experienced in disassembly and reassembly. Edit: Pulled my SID2 and discovered it does use the SID2 ribbon. I used my final 2 ribbons trying to repair it and ended up with less pixels than when I started with. Guess I'm going to have to order a few more ribbons. JayKay fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Aug 13, 2016 |
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Aug 13, 2016 13:11
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JayKay posted:I picked up 2x SID-2's recently off of eBay with the idea of practicing ribbon repair on them. Apparently the hot ( I fixed 2 SID's using my clothes iron and a sheet of paper 
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Aug 14, 2016 11:19
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I've got my old SID sitting around in the garage. I replaced it because the plastic on the underside was cracked, which scared me. Now I want to take it apart and check it out. E: oh yeah by sid I meant dic whoops! Totally unrelated. epic bird guy fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Aug 16, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 14:04
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I'm thinking the ribbon in my SID is/was loose. On start up, the only pixels showing were the minutes and top row (temp/date/etc). After driving around for a few minutes, the hours came back along with a huge chunk of the radio part. I'll try to do the iron trick and see if I can get the rest of pixels to stick.
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Aug 15, 2016 11:32
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After restoring the '86 4runner and selling the 179k E39 M5, I made a interesting play. Keep in mind, I live in Georgia; SAAB availability is only near the coast, so mostly auto cabrio's. Finally found a 2.8T Found a 2007 Saab 9-3 Aero (CPO'D at 64k in 2010) with 80K. Love the car so far; torque steer is going to be a learning curve. Any recommendations on first things to do maintenance wise on a 2.8T? I immediately flushed oil with 0-W40 Mobil 1, transmission is silky smooth, so I may put off flushing that fluid. There's a small amount of coolant on the left top side of the radiator, just a few spots where it may have been weeping. Potential trouble? Only issue is a Steering Lock message that comes on intermittently. Changing battery tomorrow, I'm hoping that goes away. Any special procedure on changing the batter? Any voodoo chants that must be said in Swedish? Excited about the car; have Opel Insigna OPC 18's on the way, as well as a ParaPat intake. Once good tires are on, JZW stage 3+ is my goal by well, Octoberish. Will keep thread updated on Project Torquesteer.   
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Aug 24, 2016 21:06
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2007 Aero buddy! Be very careful with the front lip. they like to fall off, and are expensive to replace. The Airbag recall affects this year, so i'd get it replaced pretty soon. Battery changing was normal for me? don't know of any issues. Mine is at 107k and is running OK. It has an exhaust leak that I had fixed, and it's entire windshield washer system needed new tubing, which reminds me that the turbo burnt a hold through one of the rubber coolant tubes, so be careful of that. Other than that, have fun! it's not great off the line, but cruising on the highway in 6th gear and putting your foot down and the car just taking off is always an awesome feeling.
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Aug 25, 2016 07:45
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Murkyhumor posted:The Airbag recall affects this year, so i'd get it replaced pretty soon.
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Aug 25, 2016 22:09
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geeteeslow posted:Only issue is a Steering Lock message that comes on intermittently. Changing battery tomorrow, I'm hoping that goes away. Any special procedure on changing the batter? Any voodoo chants that must be said in Swedish? Not for the battery, but this means your ignition switch is likely on it's way out. Price and look for these sooner than later. pjhalifax posted:Anybody out there actually had a Saab airbag replaced yet? I got a notification a few months ago that just said my car was on the list and there aren't any parts. Nope. Had a 2006 9-3 come my way that was losing coolant and misfiring, but not smoking. Seemed worse under load, but was somewhat arbitrary- didn't care much, but got quite a bit worse when ambient temperature was high. Didn't set any codes. Ever. Two ignition coils later, it's back on the road purring like a kitten.  (Coolant leak issue not identified at this time.)Not sure where I was in my SAAB addiction during my last voyage here before my self-exile (thanks to a few folks for being direct with me being an rear end in a top hat most of the time, I decided to re-prioritize and regroup), but I'm sitting at 6. Most are B205R/B235R right now. I have one project B204R- might end up with two more in the near future. I quite miss my B202L, though.
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Aug 30, 2016 03:26
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West SAAB Story; any use in opening up the ISM and cleaning it? My local indy recommended a shot of WD-40 into the ignition switch with the negative cable disconnected, then rock the key a bit to dislodge any residue or build-up. So, the parts to look for would be the ignition switch assembly, or the switch assembly as well as a new ISM? I have two good keys for the car, and I can't have this thing bricking itself. Thanks for the advice in advance.
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Aug 30, 2016 15:52
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geeteeslow posted:West SAAB Story; any use in opening up the ISM and cleaning it? My local indy recommended a shot of WD-40 into the ignition switch with the negative cable disconnected, then rock the key a bit to dislodge any residue or build-up. I would avoid using wd-40 in the cylinder itself (in any lock, really), since the residue would just attract more grime. It's fairly simple to remove and clean though, but obviously if the problem is electronic it won't help.
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Aug 30, 2016 16:27
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Thanks SCA Enthusiast; duly noted. I don't want the car to strand me anywhere, so I'll begin looking for the ignition switch assembly. Any of you fellows know of the part # off-hand, or a good place to look for it? I'm in Georgia, and SAAB parts simply don't exist.
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Aug 30, 2016 16:47
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I use eeuroparts pretty much exclusively. Excellent service.
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Aug 30, 2016 16:51
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Awesome, it's only $100 roughly. My existing keys will not need reprogramming & it won't need a trip to the local indy shop. Thanks again.
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Aug 30, 2016 16:55
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geeteeslow posted:West SAAB Story; any use in opening up the ISM and cleaning it? My local indy recommended a shot of WD-40 into the ignition switch with the negative cable disconnected, then rock the key a bit to dislodge any residue or build-up. Sorry for the delayed response- I don't come here every few hours, anymore. As mentioned previously, do NOT use WD-40. It will eventually make things worse. The ignition cylinder will get gummed up, and you will be forced to replace it. Just get the switch- it is likely all you need. Sometimes, the wiring beneath it get gummed up (with spilled coffee, cola, or otherwise)- but can usually be cleaned without requiring replacement. eEuro has parts, but is incredibly expensive. TheSaabSite.com isn't very cheap, but is usually cheaper. You might actually have luck with RockAuto.com- but I don't know if they'll ship to your location. I have some folks I've met off of eBay that I "go to" first for used parts- but this isn't something that I'd attempt to buy used, even if having a different lock/ignition key would be enough to confuse most folks who learned to drive in the 90s, or later. E: I'm afraid I missed your car's year. I can help you find the proper part with that information.
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Aug 31, 2016 18:29
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Metal on metal, graphite powder, especially locks. Lithium grease on metal on metal, like door hinges and stuff. Silicone grease for metal on plastic. Wd40 will keep water off, but attract other contaminants. But yeah, check europarts or a local pick a part junk yard for a potential deal.
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Aug 31, 2016 20:39
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:Metal on metal, graphite powder, especially locks. Lithium grease on metal on metal, like door hinges and stuff. Silicone grease for metal on plastic. I've had poo poo luck with graphite and ignition cylinders. It seems not to work well with the pads beneath.
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Sep 1, 2016 08:04
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I'm pretty sure I saw a thread not too long ago on SaabCentral from a guy who disassembled his ignition cylinder for cleaning. It was actually pretty fascinating to see how they work. Let me see if I can find it. Edit: Found it. JayKay fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Sep 1, 2016 |
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Sep 1, 2016 10:33
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JayKay posted:I'm pretty sure I saw a thread not too long ago on SaabCentral from a guy who disassembled his ignition cylinder for cleaning. It was actually pretty fascinating to see how they work. Let me see if I can find it. I did that following that guide a little over a year ago after I got water in my cylinder and couldn't remove the key without serious effort. Simply cleaning it worked wonders for operation.
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Sep 1, 2016 14:11
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Working on SAABs I don't own isn't all that much fun. Thankfully, I've been able to work on mine more recently. SAAB UPDATE TIME Y'ALL! 1999 9-3 'Vert (B204R): I bought this car for $300. It runs. Turbo is strong and the entire drive train is pretty drat good, except the fact it needs a head gasket- at 110k, it has plenty of life left. Cat is still pretty clean. Everything works, but it needs seat covers and the latch sensor is wonky. Is slowly becoming parts car for '01 9-3 'vert. Donations (exchanges) so far: Power Antenna, Driver window regulator. 2000 9-5 Aero: Months ago, I took the DI off the 2K 9-5, and saw a puddle of oil along the top left side, which of course pooled around the #1 plug by the time I grabbed a rag to wipe it down. Weeping from the valve cover gasket, naturally. It wasn't awful, but it certainly explained where the magical missing oil was (that which doesn't naturally pool under the car every evening). I carefully retorqued the bolts after building a small silicon barrier around the inner border. It was about another 20k, so I decided to drop an endoscope after pulling plugs- she checks out clean and virtually carbon free. I've never had good luck with GM MAFs- I've had brand new ones die on me without provocation, just slightly out of parts warranty. Grabbed the CRC and gave it a bath after changing all air filters. It seems to be a bit more appreciative, my average MPG is 28 again from an average of 26 last month (haven't touched that for a couple years). I can' t remember if I did the passenger front and rear regulators when active here, or not. Pretty sure it was after. I also had to rebuild the center console window switch assembly- and all are happy, excepting the passenger front, which is slightly wonky. I'll throw some new metal in there the next time I pop it open. 2001 9-3 'Vert (B205R SE): If you own SAABs, you'll eventually own one that is sun green. I recommend this one over the 9-5, as most of those tend to be the 3.0 V6, which are an abysmal engine. In May, the antenna decided to stop working, and after a manual rebuild- was exchanged for the working unit in the '99, because it was free (and worked a bit more smoothly than my rebuild. Earlier this week, it decided to start stuttering pulling up the driver's side window. Pulled the door card, and amazingly, the plastic spool is only half chewed through, so I exchanged it with the still-good unit from the '99. 2006 9-3SS Aero: This isn't technically mine. I bought it for a pittance from a Subaru dealership, because it was trashed. The side view mirrors were literally coke cans cut and turned inside-out, then hot glued to the recesses. The seats were dry and brittle. The paint was (is still) burnt off from a lifetime in the desert. It wasn't happy idling for long- but it only had 100k on the odometer, and had nearly brand new tires. I decided to save it. It had one cut key, and a dead keyfob, but could still start the car. Driver side lock actuator, keys, passenger window regulator, plugs, filters, hoses, all fluids. DBW was pissed because of flaky wiring, Xenons wouldn't auto-level. I fix it up and give it to the parents. Two months later, the AC decided to fail. Got that fixed, and two ignition coils decided to fail at the same time. It has also developed a minor coolant leak somewhere. Now that it finally sits in a garage, I can put cardboard under it, because I haven't found where the hell it's going. I'm tired of working on this car, and although I love driving it, I no longer want a 2.0T 9-3SS for my collection. 2008 9-3 (Turbo-X): I was getting a bogus error on the Turbo-X about fuel pressure. That makes it kind of difficult to isolate, as it has a variable pressure pump- and no matter how I beat it, I couldn't get it to fail. I eventually did get a bad reading to the Tech 2. Replaced the sender, and it's been happy for about a year. This car has been remarkably silent. It hasn't bitched about anything other than the fuel pressure issue which cropped up on the second (literal) coast to coast trip, from San Francisco to Atlantic City. Beyond that, the battery had some minor corrosion around the positive terminal, but wisked right off with some soda and gentle scrubbing. Since it's an original SAAB branded battery, I'm trying to keep it, since the car is completely stock (excepting oil filter  ).2008 9-5 2.3T: This car has given me absolutely no problems in the 8 years I've owned it, beyond basic maintenance and a new battery. I love this car. I fear when it decides it's time for me to pay the SAAB tax. Edit: Looking at a pair of B204L hatches. Pray for Viggen. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 05:05
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That's quite the list. I would like to get a Saaaab to play with, they are cheap and seem to be pretty commonly for sale here. But I'd want one of the fast ones and I don't know enough about them... there's such a similar mix of model numbers and engine specs... high pressure/low pressure/no pressure/etc... is there a list of desirable models or key indicators to look for in craigslist browsing?
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Sep 7, 2016 13:00
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meatpimp posted:That's quite the list. I would like to get a Saaaab to play with, they are cheap and seem to be pretty commonly for sale here. But I'd want one of the fast ones and I don't know enough about them... there's such a similar mix of model numbers and engine specs... high pressure/low pressure/no pressure/etc... is there a list of desirable models or key indicators to look for in craigslist browsing? Depending on your budget and era of car you're looking to get, the terms you want to look for are Turbo(if looking as far back as 900s), Aero (the high pressure later models), or if you're looking really recent, turbo-x (the high powered awd models gm finally let them put out before the end). If you're looking at 9-3s or 9-5s, avoid the 6 cylinder models (SE), because as westSAABstory mentioned, its an utterly terrible engine that GM made them throw in there. The Aero models with the high pressure 4 cylinder are better in every way. If you're looking at early 2000s 9-5s and 9-3s, be wary of anything that burns oil, the seller claims needs a head gasket, or that hasn't had anything but full synthetic oil. While those issues may be what's going on with the car, they can also be symptoms of the oil starvation issues those engines were prone to in earlier configurations. The engines were designed to have low friction pistons, allowing increased blow by of combustion gasses. This coupled with a flawed pcv system design and a recommended part synthetic oil at longer intervals led to several premature engine failures. The problem is solved with a pcv update, which most cars probably have, and by using full synthetic oil. Most of these cars on the road today probably are not having these issues, but its good to be aware of. If you do get yourself a SAAB, be prepared to be really impressed by the little things, attention to detail, and build quality. Join us....
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Sep 7, 2016 13:39
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It's crazy how many sub-$1000 Saabs there are now. If it weren't for the fact that a lot of the aftermarket upgrade/repair parts are so pricey I'd probably have built one after helping my buddy fix his Viggen. Saw another Viggen in the scrap yard a few weeks ago. Made me sad but the Yard Jawas had already stripped it to the bones so its guts will live on in sleepers.
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Sep 7, 2016 13:41
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People aren't willing to put up with them several years down the drain, but for those of us that are, cheap, high quality cars with readily available aftermarket that are pretty easy to work on are a blessing. Also I've only owned a Saab so I have no sense of what expensive vs cheap parts are
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Sep 7, 2016 13:46
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I love my '00 9-5 Aero. It gives me something to This weekend: Replace both rear door lock regulators!
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Sep 7, 2016 14:05
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meatpimp posted:That's quite the list. I would like to get a Saaaab to play with, they are cheap and seem to be pretty commonly for sale here. But I'd want one of the fast ones and I don't know enough about them... there's such a similar mix of model numbers and engine specs... high pressure/low pressure/no pressure/etc... is there a list of desirable models or key indicators to look for in craigslist browsing? You'll pretty much want to get something that is B2x4/B2x5. 2.0 is B20x, and 2.3 is B23x. The 4 is earlier, and uses the red top DI. The 5 is the black top. The red tops are Trionic 5, and the black are 7. Hardware hackers tend to like 5, but 7 is becoming a lot more common since they're all becoming quite cheap and affordable. Avoid the 3.0t (early 9-5) at all cost- the oil cooler fails and you're going to be doing a complete overhaul on an engine that doesn't deserve it. The no pressure units are generally B234s, and they're pretty resillient. The transmissions mated to them tend to be fairly bulletproof too- but a NG900S will be about 20 years old (last non-turbo). I love the earlier B2x5 models - which are known sludgers. Drain the oil and check the pickup with a scope if the car shows low pressure under load- it may be miles away from dying. Also, look for the PCV #6 update. If the check valve going into the top rear of the valve cover gasket has two lines coming off of it, this update has been done. The low pressure models are a Garrett GT17, where the high pressure are a TD04. The lower pressure models do spool slightly faster as the car gets old and worn in (unless you are SAAB-fanatical about replacing parts as they wear, rather than when they break), but the TD04 still has a much better punch. There isn't a lot of difference when you put your foot down- you'll still end up with torque steer. I've owned both, and I no longer have a GT17, but I do miss the cute whine that turbo had opposed to the common and throaty TD04. I actually get similar mileage in my HOT as I did my LPT for cars with similar mileage (same year/build). The 2003+ 9-3(SS) has a completely different engine- it's a GM Ecotec. It's OK, but still can be a pain (as witnessed above). I'd suggest a 2000-2005 9-5 to start with. The 1998 and 1999 9-5 won't be bad, but they'll be the B234R, which are EOL for over 15 years, and you won't get the same pleasure of sludging Parts and documentation are still plentiful, and you won't be out more than a grand and some time if you decide you don't like the flavor of Kool-Aid.Unlike others, I won't suggest anything like a C900 or 9000 to the SAAB curious- they're 20 years old (minimum), parts are scarce, diagnosis can be difficult, and unless you "get" SAABs, you will just end up flustered. That said, I miss my C900 every day. My 9000, not so much. Edit: Smogged the 2000 9-5 today. They don't even bother to ask me about any recent work done to the cars I take in, I just get "Hey, SAAB guy! We've (not) seen this one before." West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 22:15
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Depending on your budget and era of car you're looking to get, the terms you want to look for are Turbo(if looking as far back as 900s), Aero (the high pressure later models), or if you're looking really recent, turbo-x (the high powered awd models gm finally let them put out before the end) XWD parts are already quite difficult to find, and the buy-in price isn't in the $1,000 point unless it's completely destroyed. It's closer to $10,000 in the cheaper US markets. The Turbo X itself is quite difficult to work with if the eLSD is acting up, or, forbid, the fuel pump. It's not going to be a fun (or affordable) job for either. Seat Safety Switch posted:It's crazy how many sub-$1000 Saabs there are now. Many in this price range are Saambies, they exist to feast upon parts of the living. JayKay posted:I love my '00 9-5 Aero. It gives me something to You act like this isn't normal SAAB maintenance (for a 15 year old 9-5). The 9-3SS is less fun. While you're there, might as well pop the trunk and trace the wiring harness (if you haven't in the last year). Also, pop out your window switch pack and clean the contacts. You know, between breaks while swearing about how annoying it can be to reach certain parts. Then, repair the driver's seat controller that's been broken for the last few months. I like using epoxy, wide washers, and steel wire. 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 22:33
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West SAAB Story posted:XWD parts are already quite difficult to find, and the buy-in price isn't in the $1,000 point unless it's completely destroyed. It's closer to $10,000 in the cheaper US markets. The Turbo X itself is quite difficult to work with if the eLSD is acting up, or, forbid, the fuel pump. It's not going to be a fun (or affordable) job for either. Yeah I got distracted by the "cheap" thing for the sake of chronological comprehensiveness.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:35
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Yeah I got distracted by the "cheap" thing for the sake of chronological comprehensiveness. ..but as one who has only not owned SAABs, cheap is relative. With no-frills appliance cars, you may expect a year out of a $1k car with deferred maintenance being possible to do- as needed, rather than "immediately or it will die". Still, if you take care of the problems you have in a 1k SAAB, it'll be a much more enjoyable experience to drive. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 05:15
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Thanks to both of you. Basically, I'll just look for the Aero cars... How are the convertibles? A 'vert Aero seems like it'd be fun to find and play with.
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Sep 8, 2016 12:28
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meatpimp posted:Thanks to both of you. Basically, I'll just look for the Aero cars... How are the convertibles? A 'vert Aero seems like it'd be fun to find and play with. I like mine. Pros Comfy ride, perky engine, good roof, gets admiring comments Cons - bigger than you imagine (same length as a mercedes estate), dumps loads of CO2, drinks a bit. Stereo is shite and impossible to replace. If you get one, get one with all the toys.
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Sep 8, 2016 12:43
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West SAAB Story posted:..but as one who has only not owned SAABs, cheap is relative. With no-frills appliance cars, you may expect a year out of a $1k car with deferred maintenance being possible to do- as needed, rather than "immediately or it will die". Still, if you take care of the problems you have in a 1k SAAB, it'll be a much more enjoyable experience to drive. Very true. I've owned my 1.2k SAAB for 2 years now, and the big lesson is that if you take care of it, it will take care of you. One of these days I should try to figure out how much money and time I've put into it. In June I spent 2 weeks with the engine out to do the timing chain and other stuff. (B235e) Mine was a bit of a diamond in the rough though -- the POs were smart enough to know it was going to need a lot fairly soon, and really wanted to get rid of it. They took pretty good mechanical care of it but it was dirty. Another takeaway is that though the entry cost is low, the long term cost may not be. Meatpimp, my neighbor has a 9-3 vert that he takes awesome care of. Really nice looking car. epic bird guy fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 14:32
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meatpimp posted:Thanks to both of you. Basically, I'll just look for the Aero cars... How are the convertibles? A 'vert Aero seems like it'd be fun to find and play with. I can't speak for anything 2003+, only up to that time (1999-2003). The B205 (and B204) are pretty much the same to deal with as the B234/B235, which means not a lot of new things to learn, however: Don't get a 1995 NG00 'vert. This system isn't hydraulic, and it is prone to failure. Last I checked, replacement parts for the shredded gears are virtually impossible to find, and it isn't really worth it (unless you absolutely love the car). I'd recommend, again, something between 2000 to 2003 to cut your teeth on. The 9-3 SE 'vert is essentially a package away from being an Aero. It comes with the B205 and TD04, and other than a few missing things (might not have heated mirrors, electric passenger seat, etc), it's pretty much an Aero. Everything else already said about the OG 9-5 basically applies to this car. A basic ELM327/OBD II device is good, but having a Tech 2 is better. Programming the top requires a Tech 2, should you need to work on it. I've thankfully never had to do that myself (yet), but it looks quite time consuming, and I can't say I relish the idea. Dealing with some specific "SAAB" things are also made a lot easier with one of these (like enrolling/removing keys). If you don't have one, a cheap Chinese clone can be had which will do pretty much everything for a couple hundred bucks. spog posted:Cons - bigger than you imagine (same length as a mercedes estate), dumps loads of CO2, drinks a bit. Stereo is shite and impossible to replace. Some of us don't mind a single CD changer and enjoy having Weather Band (it's wonderful to have when driving, even if it is highly outdated- sometimes data doesn't work on my provider). It is a strange size of 1.5DIN, but isn't difficult to exchange- but you'll lose the SID display with anything aftermarket. If you decide to take the plunge, at least skim this thread for known issues and gotchas. Window rollers, SIDs, PCV updates, and regulators are entry level items. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 16:29
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West SAAB Story posted:Some of us don't mind a single CD changer and enjoy having Weather Band (it's wonderful to have when driving, even if it is highly outdated- sometimes data doesn't work on my provider). It is a strange size of 1.5DIN, but isn't difficult to exchange- but you'll lose the SID display with anything aftermarket. Actually, I am okay with the single CD: it's a faff to burn them, the blank CD cost more than blank DVDs and you occasionally drive into the back of someone whilst shuffling through them, but I can live with that. However, the sound is pretty poo poo, especially if you like banging tunes.
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Sep 8, 2016 17:16
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spog posted:Actually, I am okay with the single CD: it's a faff to burn them, the blank CD cost more than blank DVDs and you occasionally drive into the back of someone whilst shuffling through them, but I can live with that. Who the hell needs a great stereo when the top goes down?  Get a 9-5 with the Prestige audio package if you'd rather enjoy those- it's great! My buddy who won't buy anything newer than a 9000 had to admit that he was jealous of the stereo in my LPT.
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Sep 8, 2016 19:23
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West SAAB Story posted:Who the hell needs a great stereo when the top goes down? But how else can you sing along to 'Love Shack' by The B-52s on a sunny day?
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Sep 8, 2016 19:54
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