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Fifty Three posted:I bought it. Here it is in a trailer with bonus friend-who-owns-trailer. WHAT THE gently caress?!?!? God damnit it's the perfect color and everything. I am severely jealous.
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Sep 4, 2016 04:13
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Fifty Three posted:I bought it. Here it is in a trailer with bonus friend-who-owns-trailer. It looks so excited to maybe go fast.
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Sep 4, 2016 04:18
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Thanks, I'm pretty content with the purchase. Cheapest clean-ish F4i I've seen yet in a month of intense searching. Some scrapes on the right side from being dropped, but fine otherwise. Just means I won't be too put out when I drop it for the first time.
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Sep 4, 2016 05:08
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:BMW had the modern control layout since their first bike in 1923. Except for the hand shifter, cause foot shifters didn't exist back then. They made up for this by carrying forward a wrong turn signal scheme until like, idk, last year or some poo poo.
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Sep 4, 2016 06:32
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Fifty Three posted:Thanks, I'm pretty content with the purchase. Cheapest clean-ish F4i I've seen yet in a month of intense searching. Congrats! Cool colors 
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Sep 4, 2016 14:46
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Z3n posted:They made up for this by carrying forward a wrong turn signal scheme until like, idk, last year or some poo poo. You're referring to the paddle switches i assume. Did you know that the first stock blinkers on BMWs in the 60s/70s had a rotating switch on the right handlebar with no markings on it at all?
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Sep 5, 2016 02:16
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:You're referring to the paddle switches i assume. Did you know that the first stock blinkers on BMWs in the 60s/70s had a rotating switch on the right handlebar with no markings on it at all? I did not. I cannot wait until that becomes a component of hipster bike builds.
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Sep 5, 2016 09:23
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To be fair, Harley does turn signals wrong to this very day
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Sep 5, 2016 12:24
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Fixed the previous-previous owner's turn signal fuckery. They'd installed LED front signals, which in itself is fine- but the new signals only had two wires (signal/gnd) as opposed to the original three (signal/running light/gnd). So they spliced the signal and running light wires, leaving all four signals solid all the time (except for turns, during which they blink correctly) as well as the indicators on the dash.  Easy fix, and I learned how to easily remove the front fairing for future purposes. I also discovered they stripped one of the mirror stalk pivot bolts, so they did what any normal person would do and JB-welded the joint. I'll replace it... eventually. 
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Sep 5, 2016 17:14
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What happen if you put a heavy duty inner tube that supposedly fits? 120-150/80-90 R16 UHD is NOT compatible with a 120/90 R16 tyre. The white goop is puncture sealant after riding 400Km.  I limped additional 150km home, refilling air at each gas station I passed.
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Sep 5, 2016 20:50
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gently caress my new chains and sprockets. I think the important part is the $400 worth of bling I added to the DRZ. (It's the pitbull sticker :shh:)  e: This reminds me, what the gently caress is that little black box just above the heat shield on that exhaust called? There's a spot where the seam from when it was put together has split apart and it's making GBS threads oil all over. So I covered the entire seam in about 1-2mm of epoxy. Should be good. Also, spent like 2 cans of parts cleaner, a cup of kerosene, and a roll of paper towels de-greasing that drat bike. e2: #bieks figured it out. Oil return tank. That or a lovely scottoiler that Suzuki put in the wrong place. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 5, 2016 22:05
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 Ofc I manage to mount a new tire without hurting myself and pinch the loving tube in the process. I was under budget until this poo poo. e: Oh ffs the little local non-dealership Italian shop wants $45 in labor to change a tube. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 6, 2016 04:25
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I did basic maintenance over the last few week ends. Cleaned the K&N air filter, did an oil change, replaced a missing seat bolt, removed some of the less attractive stickers on the drz(at the behest of my wife). As I changed the oil I realized that my petcock is leaking. The telltale sign was gasoline in the oil. A quick test of the petcock (and searching ThumperTalk) confirmed this. So then I needed a new petcock and O-ring for my carb. I bought a petcock on e-bay, and they definitely sent a petcock that doesn't work. The lever for adjusting between prime, on, and reserve doesn't reach all of the way to the on position because it hits the fuel tank. Womp womp. So now I'm buying another petcock, and I'll hopefully be replacing the o-ring in the carb during the next couple days.
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Sep 6, 2016 19:21
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Fishvilla posted:I did basic maintenance over the last few week ends. Cleaned the K&N air filter, did an oil change, replaced a missing seat bolt, removed some of the less attractive stickers on the drz(at the behest of my wife). You say you're replacing "the o-ring in the carb." I assume you mean the o-ring that seals the needle valve seat? Just replace the whole thing. And go ahead and buy new o-rings for everything else in the carb. As soon as you open it up, it'll never seal again. In fact, most bikes have a very basic carb rebuild kit, which is a float bowl o-ring, needle valve seat, screen, needle, and o-ring. Clean the jets while you've got it open and replace their o-rings as well.
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Sep 6, 2016 20:23
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Fishvilla posted:
This sounds like something you could possibly fix in 10 minutes with a hacksaw and some files.
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Sep 6, 2016 20:57
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:You say you're replacing "the o-ring in the carb." I assume you mean the o-ring that seals the needle valve seat? Just replace the whole thing. And go ahead and buy new o-rings for everything else in the carb. As soon as you open it up, it'll never seal again. In fact, most bikes have a very basic carb rebuild kit, which is a float bowl o-ring, needle valve seat, screen, needle, and o-ring. Clean the jets while you've got it open and replace their o-rings as well. The float valve seat o-ring is what thumper talk was recommending to replace. I was hoping to avoid doing a full rebuild if possible just because  , but I'll check out kits and try to sort it out if you think it's worth it. Sagebrush posted:This sounds like something you could possibly fix in 10 minutes with a hacksaw and some files. I almost did this. Stopped at the last minute after realizing that the part of the petcock that connects to the fuel hose is too small to connect (even with the little clampy guys), so I decided to just ask ebay for a return/refund on it.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:03
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Fishvilla posted:The float valve seat o-ring is what thumper talk was recommending to replace. I was hoping to avoid doing a full rebuild if possible just because What bike? But yeah, go ahead and do the whole thing. They're usually pretty cheap, especially since you're only doing one carb (right?). And a full refresh in there is always good. If you've got it open, just go ahead and it won't need it again for a while. Sometimes, monkeying with carbs can throw something else off if you're not doing a complete clean. You put it back on the bike and your tuning has gone screwy and then you need to take it off again. Fuelling systems are like a balloon, it's hard to push on one place without causing a bulge somewhere else. For god's sake, don't force anything brass, though. If a little brass nut doesn't want to come out with reasonable pressure, stop what you're doing and soak it overnight. Likewise during reassembly.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:48
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pulled over coming home from class to take a piss break. *thunk* rear end in a top hat falls over. eh no big deal. pick it up, won't go in any gear, stuck in netural. poo poo. circlip got knocked off the shift shaft. hosed with it till i got *a* gear and rode to a flat spot. sifted through rocks until I got third gear and rode it home like that.  This piece of poo poo gets more naps with nobody on it than with.   Thanks for pissing on my already lovely week, jerk. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 00:19
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Is that stock? I dont remember my DRZ having a circlip and washer there at all. Also why would that circlip coming loose stop you from shifting? I'm super confused here.
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Sep 7, 2016 01:39
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stock. with the circlip not there the shift shaft can slide into the case resulting in it not making contact with the shift drum.
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Sep 7, 2016 01:48
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cursedshitbox posted:pulled over coming home from class to take a piss break. *thunk* rear end in a top hat falls over. eh no big deal. pick it up, won't go in any gear, stuck in netural. poo poo. circlip got knocked off the shift shaft. hosed with it till i got *a* gear and rode to a flat spot. sifted through rocks until I got third gear and rode it home like that. Your misadventures are hilarious. I'm sorry though, that sucks.
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Sep 7, 2016 03:46
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cursedshitbox posted:stock. with the circlip not there the shift shaft can slide into the case resulting in it not making contact with the shift drum. Now you have me second guessing myself, but I swear that wasn't there on either DrzSM I owned
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Sep 7, 2016 13:14
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Not today, but recently I let my new MT-07 loose on the track. I did 1½ days at Gotland Ring in Sweden. They have public driving most days where you just show up, pay the fee, show that you brought a helmet and you're off. If both cars and bikes show up you split the day in 20 minute sessions but it was only bikes most of the time and no timed sessions. I'm not fast by any standards but I shaved about 8 seconds off last year's lap times even though I was down 25 hp from my last bike. I know a good rider could push the bike a lot harder but I'm still a track noob and I had to keep it safe to be able to ride it home afterwards. This is my fastest lap at 1:57 but the fast guys are closer to 1:30. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwuqNO8GjCw
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Sep 7, 2016 17:11
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Around 1:00 I almost thought the track was going to go directly under the turbine like some kind of mini golf/mario kart stage.
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Sep 7, 2016 17:16
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Building a race track in the middle of a wind farm is loving genius because it guarantees there will never, ever be complaints about things in back yards.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:36
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Slavvy posted:Building a race track in the middle of a wind farm is loving genius because it guarantees there will never, ever be complaints about things in back yards. And the wind farm is located on an old and huge limestone quarry. There are plans to extend the track and maybe build some sort of enduro course and mx tracks. Bike heaven. Map.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:10
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makka-setan posted:Not today, but recently I let my new MT-07 loose on the track. I did 1½ days at Gotland Ring in Sweden. They have public driving most days where you just show up, pay the fee, show that you brought a helmet and you're off. If both cars and bikes show up you split the day in 20 minute sessions but it was only bikes most of the time and no timed sessions. Cool clip! Holiday destination...? maybe try to beat your record?
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Sep 7, 2016 23:54
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Did some powder coating because the silver color the tusk hand guards came in just didn't jive with my SV's colors   Everyone should powder coat it's cool and good.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:13
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powder coating is something you can do at home without tools?
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Sep 8, 2016 00:38
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Yes you can do it at home, but no you can't do it without tools. It requires: -An air compressor -A powder gun (I have this one: http://m.harborfreight.com/10-30-psi-powder-coating-system-94244.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided) -Something to cook the parts in, I use a large Oster toaster oven (the parts in the first two pics are sitting on it). This has to be dedicated for powder coating, once you cook powder in it you can't cook food in it again. I am currently trying to sell the wife on a full size oven for the garage  All said and done I have maybe a hundred bucks sunk into this. Powder is nice for parts that see high use or come under a bunch of abuse and stress, because it's strong as hell and I am sick of having spray bombed parts look like poo poo. I put wrinkle paint on the bark busters and I have some satin black I'm going to shoot on some other parts.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:51
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Yes you can do it at home, but no you can't do it without tools. I wasn't aware that this was possible and now have every intention of trying it myself, thanks!
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Sep 8, 2016 02:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Did some powder coating because the silver color the tusk hand guards came in just didn't jive with my SV's colors Are they treating you well? I was thinking about getting the same ones for the GS fie hunnid. Thanks for the powdercoating@home tips, too. It sounds pretty easy and affordable, words I would probably not have used to describe powdercoating in the past.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:39
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Slavvy posted:I wasn't aware that this was possible and now have every intention of trying it myself, thanks! No sweat, couple tips I learned the hard way. Just like regular paint, powder coat paint is only as good as the prep, you need clean metal, both from a rust and old paint standpoint, and from an oil and grease standpoint. For the bark busters I did today, I ran them on a coarse wire wheel to get the factory paint off, then I wiped them down with acetone and a coffee filter (no fuzz from a coffee filter, unlike a rag). Also, any powder coat you buy will come with a time and temperature, the powder I did today was 20 minutes at 400 degrees. The thing you have to remember is that the powder needs to cook at that temperature for that time to cure properly, so if you're putting room temp parts in there, the curing doesn't begin until the part hits 400 degrees. So for the bark busters I put them in at 400 for 30 minutes. Lastly, get the biggest, hottest toaster oven you can. I bought one today that is 18x9 and hits 450 degrees. N is for Nipples posted:Are they treating you well? I was thinking about getting the same ones for the GS fie hunnid. Thanks for the powdercoating@home tips, too. It sounds pretty easy and affordable, words I would probably not have used to describe powdercoating in the past. The Tusk hand guards are the best bark busters I've ever owned. They are incredibly beefy, they look good, they work with Tusks awesome bar mitts in cold weather, and they come pre drilled for mounting Tusk D-Flex plastic guards to them if you wish was well. I've run them on 3 bikes now and they're still going strong. Plus they're cheap. I'd be hard pressed to find a reason to buy anything else. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 02:52
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poo poo if you're oven roasting that stuff why not cerakote instead of powder
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Sep 8, 2016 02:54
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Because I have never heard of cerakote until you just mentioned it
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Sep 8, 2016 02:57
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Because I have never heard of cerakote until you just mentioned it All I know is that idiots pay other idiots a lot to cover their guns in it. e: and holy poo poo the stuff itself is plenty expensive too solarNativity fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 02:57
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Yeah, just watched a cerakote produced training vid, won't be using that stuff. I'm sure it's awesome, but: -The mixing and ratios and cleanup looks like a pain, powder cleanup consists of spraying any loose powder away with compressed air -It's expensive -You still have to deal with overspray, dry spray, runs, etc, which is part of the reason I started doing powder coat. It has none of that stuff. -if you gently caress up the cerakote coating, you have to partially cure and then completely re-strip the part. If you gently caress up powder you just blow it off with compressed air and try again, or you can just re-spray the messed up area  -cook time is on the order of hours. Powder is quick. Like I said, I'm sure cerakote is good stuff, but for your average DIY person it's probably overkill, and looks like way too much work.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:14
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This makes me want to try powdercoating random poo poo. I have a pretty decent 1100C furnace at work. e: Also took the tank off the FZ6 for the umpteenth loving time, cleaned out the filter, and dumped the old gas into my used oil stash. New gas, it runs great now. Before it couldn't even break 80mph. I don't know how the gas ended up going bad after sitting 2-3 weeks after being my literal daily driver. But it smelled like a significant amount of the volatiles evaporated off when I took the fuel pump assembly out. Almost like a lovely diesel cut with a ton of everclear added in for kicks. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 03:20
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drat I wanna powder coat stuff too now.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:49
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Ola posted:Cool clip! Wi nøt trei a høliday in Sweden next yër ? See the løveli lakes. The wøndërful reice träcks.
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Sep 8, 2016 06:46
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