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Yep, the O'Reilly down the road rents those out, I intend to get one. Accord to everywhere, I should be replacing the conrod bolts so I'm trying to find some but there seem to be a few different ones listed here, so I'm curious as to whether I need to look at the bolt before I know what's in there for sure or whether I can take an educated guess at the thing. edit: Here's a photo of what I'm working with (I assume):  What I'm most confused about is the interactions between items numbered 4, 6, and 7. scuz fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Sep 6, 2016 |
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Sep 6, 2016 18:33
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scuz posted:What I'm most confused about is the interactions between items numbered 4, 6, and 7. It's either/or. Either the rods have pressed-in bolts (4) and nuts (6), or the caps have bolts that thread into the rods (7).
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Sep 6, 2016 18:45
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Dagen H posted:It's either/or. Either the rods have pressed-in bolts (4) and nuts (6), or the caps have bolts that thread into the rods (7).
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Sep 6, 2016 18:53
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Not without consulting someone familiar with your particular engine.
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Sep 6, 2016 19:11
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Dagen H posted:Not without consulting someone familiar with your particular engine.
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Sep 6, 2016 19:13
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Anyone have opinions or experience with KYB "Strut-plus" strut assemblies? I need to replace the struts on my dad's Pontiac Vibe and the front Strut-plus assemblies are only $80 more than a bare GR-2 strut.
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Sep 6, 2016 19:39
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KYB is quality. For a vibe I'd buy the cheapest long warranty strut and use a spring compressor though
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Sep 7, 2016 01:14
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I have a question for the CA AI goons. I am considering personally reviving my Tacoma, which the insurance company declared to be total loss after an accident. I have read the instructions https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr13 and I was wondering, does the DMV/CHP in their inspection give a poo poo about damage that is not safety related/in clear violation of the CVC? Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of? Is this a spectacularly retarded idea? Skinnymansbeerbelly fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 02:09
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If you don't know the process it's spectacularly bad.
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Sep 7, 2016 02:20
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Christobevii3 posted:KYB is quality. For a vibe I'd buy the cheapest long warranty strut and use a spring compressor though Keep in mind the Vibe is another NUMI venture; mechanically, it's almost all Toyota, except for the heating/ac system - I think the US market Vibe and Matrix may have even been built side by side in the same factory? (not 100% on that) The Matrix was essentially a stretched Corolla. A lot of Toyota models use KYB from the factory; I wouldn't be surprised if the Vibe (and Matrix) did too. tl;dr don't write off the Vibe as a complete shitbox, it's a Matrix in GM drag. Just like the Geo/Chevy Prizm was really a Corolla with a different heater/ac system, radio, and lights. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 08:54
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The dealership preinstalls these junk security systems on all of their cars. I didn't buy it, so they disabled it and left it in the car. It's a glorified shock sensor, and I've lived in enough apartment complexes to know that these things are poo poo and are typically found on old Civics, MR2s, and Integras with no clear coat. Is it safer to just leave it there? Or is it better to remove it? I know it's deactivated, but I don't want it waking up one day if I remove the battery or something like that.  A whole bunch of taps  Closer  My concern is they cut my blue wire and have it going into their green and red. The white one is a tap I think. It's not easy to reach.  I guess pull the plug on all of the taps, and maybe remove the whole tap and hope the wire isn't ruined? I'd probably just connect the green and red wires to complete the circuit on the blue one.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:02
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gently caress that dealer, seriously. How recently did you buy the car? Have them remove it!
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Sep 7, 2016 20:03
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Geirskogul posted:gently caress that dealer, seriously. How recently did you buy the car? Have them remove it! They wouldn't move on that, and I got a friends/family price, so I didn't want to cause any problems. I was really surprised at how common this is around Southern California. I found more dealers with it than without it.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:17
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So let's just assume I don't know poo poo about cars, because I essentially don't. My husband drives a 2001 Toyota Camry and it's chugging along okay though it's obviously old as poo poo. I took it by to get looked at today because he hadn't had an oil change or any maintenance in a pretty long while. The lady told me his tires had steel cord poking out and that they were close to being bald (but weren't there yet). She said we could do an alignment for $85 to put off replacing the tires or we could replace the tires for $400. She said the torque mount on the engine is ripped and needs to be replaced for $125. Which of these things should I do?
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Sep 7, 2016 20:18
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:So let's just assume I don't know poo poo about cars, because I essentially don't. My husband drives a 2001 Toyota Camry and it's chugging along okay though it's obviously old as poo poo. I took it by to get looked at today because he hadn't had an oil change or any maintenance in a pretty long while. If the tires really are bad, please get new ones. It's hazardous to not only the person driving the car but also to everyone around the car while it's moving. If necessary, the engine mount can probably wait, but if it's bad enough to cause severe engine movement you're probably going to see other stuff needing replaced soon-ish because of that.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:25
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Get new tires! Cords anywhere is a no-go, and you're endangering everyone around you. Also, TBH, $400 all-out for a four-tire swap and mount and balance isn't bad. And $85 isn't terrible for a 4-wheel alignment, either, so get that done. Then your new tires won't be destroyed by a bad alignment. Of course, do this literally anywhere else. A tire shop that says "yeah you've got cords but I can getcha an alignment and you can eke it out awhile longer" without clearly and concisely explaining the danger of running around on cords isn't one I would trust. If you hate a pair of clothes and the ruined engine mount is clearly accessible, a $30 tube of Windo-Weld and a jack to prop up the engine while you're waiting for it to cure isn't a bad bandaid. But, of course, if you literally know nothing about cars (no offense at all implied), then maybe jury-rigging is above you, because the best jury rigs involve knowledge of how it should be, and a conscious intent on ignoring that knowledge.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:30
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FogHelmut posted:
Jesus Christ in heaven above if I found this in a BRAND NEW VEHICLE I absolutely would not accept it you are a better person than I man,
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Sep 7, 2016 20:35
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Also they used a loving anodized screw and didn't even scratch away the powercoat for the ground wire! E: unless that's bare metal - I'm on mobile and it's a small pic on my screen.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:36
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:So let's just assume I don't know poo poo about cars, because I essentially don't. My husband drives a 2001 Toyota Camry and it's chugging along okay though it's obviously old as poo poo. I took it by to get looked at today because he hadn't had an oil change or any maintenance in a pretty long while. Get new tires RIGHT NOW, hell if you can't afford new go find a mexican used tire place and at least get two matching front and two matching back. I would be leery of what tires this shop is offering you so readily at $400 mounted probably some rock hard Chinesium specials.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:37
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Thanks for the advice! I think we're definitely going to do the tires and engine mount and maybe the alignment later if its necessary. This place was a chain (Tires Plus) and I feel like the lady on the phone just didn't do a good job explaining to me what was going on. I don't really have any other place I know if that does tires so I'm probably gonna stick with them. It's not their mechanics fault she gave me bad advice. However I will say that for the other stuff, the alignment and the work on the engine mount, we'll be going to my local mechanic who fixed my own old as poo poo car on an essentially bi yearly basis before I totaled it. They're the guys I'd pick for repair work but they don't do tires. I guess the next question is should we get good tires or go with something cheap? New or used? Like I said this car of his is old as poo poo and we're most likely going to get him a new one in less than 3 years, so we really only have to hold out until I'm out of grad school and making bank. everdave posted:Get new tires RIGHT NOW, hell if you can't afford new go find a mexican used tire place and at least get two matching front and two matching back. I would be leery of what tires this shop is offering you so readily at $400 mounted probably some rock hard Chinesium specials. I'm not sure if that price includes mounting the tires or not. I'd expect not (though like I said, I don't know poo poo so maybe it does.) One of the few car things I can do is change a tire. Should I just buy the tires and put them on at home to save on costs or is that dumb? JibbaJabberwocky fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Sep 7, 2016 |
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Sep 7, 2016 20:43
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:Thanks for the advice! I think we're definitely going to do the tires and engine mount and maybe the alignment later if its necessary. This place was a chain (Tires Plus) and I feel like the lady on the phone just didn't do a good job explaining to me what was going on. I don't really have any other place I know if that does tires so I'm probably gonna stick with them. It's not their mechanics fault she gave me bad advice. However I will say that for the other stuff, the alignment and the work on the engine mount, we'll be going to my local mechanic who fixed my own old as poo poo car on an essentially bi yearly basis before I totaled it. They're the guys I'd pick for repair work but they don't do tires. Unless you have a tire mounting machine at home get someplace to mount and balance them for you. If you can see steel belts then the time for new tires is NOW. If you can only afford used then so be it, look up how to measure tread depth and bring a penny, dime and quarter with you and cash, negotiate price and mounting make sure they use new valve stems. What size tires? You may be able to get some decent (I said decent) Goodyears at WalMart for $60-80 each (depending on tire size)and they should mount them for 15-20 a piece.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:02
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Geirskogul posted:Also they used a loving anodized screw and didn't even scratch away the powercoat for the ground wire! Looks too shiny to be bare metal.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:05
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everdave posted:Jesus Christ in heaven above if I found this in a BRAND NEW VEHICLE I absolutely would not accept it you are a better person than I man, Next time I'm looking at cars, I'll bring some tools and pull open the dash. But for the price I paid, I'm willing to deal with a couple of wires. Geirskogul posted:Also they used a loving anodized screw and didn't even scratch away the powercoat for the ground wire! Bare metal, its under the dash below the steering wheel.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:13
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everdave posted:Unless you have a tire mounting machine at home get someplace to mount and balance them for you. 205 60 16 I hope that means a thing to you guys.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:17
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everdave posted:Jesus Christ in heaven above if I found this in a BRAND NEW VEHICLE I absolutely would not accept it you are a better person than I man, You don't have an option around here either. You either buy a BRAND NEW VEHICLE with hacked up wiring from a shittily-installed "alarm" (because said box of poo poo both responds to the sales staff's master remotes and is an easy upsell to leave in) or you don't buy a vehicle. And used dealer vehicles are identically afflicted. It's tragic and frustrating.
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Sep 7, 2016 21:19
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:205 60 16 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Falken-SINCERA-TOURING-SN211-P205-60R16-91T/43740005 I have no idea if this is available local to you just a 30 second search at WalMart (since everyone has a WalMart) shows these in your size at $60 each If you could get something like these mounted and balanced out the door for $350 or less I would do that versus used tires
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Sep 7, 2016 21:47
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:I have a question for the CA AI goons. I am considering personally reviving my Tacoma, which the insurance company declared to be total loss after an accident. I have read the instructions https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr13 and I was wondering, does the DMV/CHP in their inspection give a poo poo about damage that is not safety related/in clear violation of the CVC? Remember that in most states to pass a salvage inspection, any and all parts you install must be either brand new with proof of purchase or salvage with documentation for what vehicle they came from - VIN number, etc. This was done to make chopshops go away and it has only somewhat worked. FogHelmut posted:My concern is they cut my blue wire and have it going into their green and red. The white one is a tap I think. It's not easy to reach.  They already butt-hosed your wiring harness with retarded poo poo. That one cut wire is probably the starter interlock that prevents the ignition switch from triggering the starter relay. If you remove it all, you are going to need to resplice that wire nicely, peel all the taps off, and cover the cuts in the wire insulation where the taps bit in with something like liquid electrical tape, preferably. FogHelmut posted:They wouldn't move on that, and I got a friends/family price, so I didn't want to cause any problems. I was really surprised at how common this is around Southern California. I found more dealers with it than without it. Probably very common in socal because if a car gets bought there and driven to Mexico, no one's gonna go repo it and no one's gonna bring it back either. It's very common on the used market up here because people who buy cars from BHPH dealers don't always like to pay their car note and disabling the car remotely and giving the GPS coordinates to a repo man is a pretty sure way of either getting the car back or getting them to pay to turn it back on again.
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Sep 7, 2016 22:01
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everdave posted:https://www.walmart.com/ip/Falken-SINCERA-TOURING-SN211-P205-60R16-91T/43740005 At the tire place they quoted me for Primewell 40,000 mile tires for $326 all told so we may do that. Is a road hazard warranty purchase worth it for tires?
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Sep 7, 2016 22:58
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kastein posted:
This was my plan. I just wasn't sure if it was safer to just leave this stuff attached. When you say "resplice that wire nicely," I mean I've done plenty of soldering and shrink tubing, but on a table with plenty of open space. This is up high in a tight area. I've always heard butt crimp connectors are no good, but that's what they already used. I can't imagine they took the whole harness out into a reasonable area to work on it, and I'm sure there are tens of thousands of crimped connections out there just fine.
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Sep 7, 2016 23:07
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:At the tire place they quoted me for Primewell 40,000 mile tires for $326 all told so we may do that. Is a road hazard warranty purchase worth it for tires? Better than steel belts showing but those are garbage tires
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Sep 7, 2016 23:11
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FogHelmut posted:This was my plan. I just wasn't sure if it was safer to just leave this stuff attached. I usually prefer good quality sealant lined heatshrink butt splices, but inside the passenger compartment matters a lot less, unless you live in a rusty or damp area.
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Sep 7, 2016 23:22
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What are the cheapest Kumhos? Primewell is chinesium.
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Sep 7, 2016 23:46
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:At the tire place they quoted me for Primewell 40,000 mile tires for $326 all told so we may do that. Is a road hazard warranty purchase worth it for tires? Is there a discount tires near you? They are great for price and usually very good on service. Where are you located near? Somebody here may be able to direct you to a decent local shop to you. And the road hazard warranty is worth it. I had a giant chunk of metal destroy my tire with less then 1k miles and the warranty saved me from paying for a new tire.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:27
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FogHelmut posted:This was my plan. I just wasn't sure if it was safer to just leave this stuff attached.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:49
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SouthsideSaint posted:Is there a discount tires near you? They are great for price and usually very good on service. Where are you located near? Somebody here may be able to direct you to a decent local shop to you. I will second Discount Tire (or America's Tire in some parts of the country), they're solid. They also stock a number of "house brand" tires that are really just older designs from name brands, still made by those companies. The Pathfinder Sport S AT tires I run on my Jeep are an older Kumho design, and the recall / warranty cards still get mailed to Kumho. I've actually never had enough bad luck with tires to justify buying a road hazard warranty on them. The only time I did was some garbage dealer add-on when I bought the Miata back in '04, and we never actually did enough damage to a tire on that car to require any more service than what Discount already provides free of charge. The CR-V has had two unrepairable flats, where one was the nearly worn out OE set and the other was nearly new. So I could've saved on that one new tire, but it was cheap enough that I think I've come out ahead. I will also third/whatever the recommendation to avoid Chinese-branded tires. It's one thing if a company like Kumho or whoever else makes some tires in China, but the ones that are actually Chinese-branded (Nankang, Primewell, etc) are unmitigated poo poo.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:56
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I've bought from Discount twice, both were good experiences. Once from Tirerack, also a good experience. Edit: I TOTALLY get when money's tight...I've driven on the cords myself before replacing tires one at a time. But keep in mind that nothing is more crucial for the safety of everyone in and around your car than the tires. The best brakes in the world won't save you if your tires are poo poo. You're not avoiding a collision if your tires are poo poo. You're going to have to replace them in a year if your tires are poo poo.
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Sep 8, 2016 01:48
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This is going to sound really dumb, but how does dailying a classic car work? Illinois says that they can't drive during winter if they're registered as classics, basically every insurance plan I've looked at tries to limit you to under 6k miles a year, even "unlimited mile" plans say that it can't be your primary car, and on top of Illinois requiring certain levels of coverage that many classic car insurance companies try to gate behind arbitrary mile restrictions, I'd like to be able to just drive without breaking the law and without fear of my insurance provider throwing me under the bus for a technicality that breaks their contract I asked my current provider as a hypothetical, and they basically said that their entire classic car thing is based off of Haggerty's plans and may or may not have a mile restriction depending on the car I buy and how I register it with the state. That phone call was actually less helpful than reading their FAQ, but it got me looking at the finer details of classic car ownership. If it matters at all, I currently have Allstate, and I would not mind changing providers to a more competent, or at least more savvy insurance provider. Their price is reasonable, but I was very put off by their claims adjuster, I was extremely dissatisfied with the bodyshop they had me use, and I was straight up pissed off that they refused to declare my totaled car as totaled, and proceeded to hand me back a car with sheared motor mounts because replacing them would have put my car over the "totaled" threshold and I couldn't prove that they were damaged in the accident. They had also previously tried to drop me from my insurance because my car was originally under both my mom's name and my own, which was totally normal since she cosigned the loan. But, somehow in their system, every accident or moving violation in their system for any of the 7 vehicles in the past 5 years that had her name on it got attributed to me and they cancelled my insurance for a day. Sorting that out was a fun way to spend an afternoon 
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Sep 8, 2016 01:52
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You don't have to register them as classics, nor insure them as such. There are definite downsides to this.
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Sep 8, 2016 01:54
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Krakkles posted:What dealer in SoCal was this? I'm looking at buying a new car soon and this is scary. Villa Ford in Orange. Off hand, I know Spreen Honda does it too. There were a few others I've seen that I can't remember. Check the Google and Yelp reviews for the dealers. South Coast Toyota maybe? They didn't pressure me at all about buying it when I said no, but its still in there. I've also seen a few researching this "Rockledge Security." There's another firm, SouthWest Dealer Services, that goes around to dealerships training them on how to sell these alarms as an add on. It's like $40-$50 for the dealer for the part, then they owe the firm $150 on activation. So the dealer sells it for $300+. It's a lovely shock sensor that beeps a lot and disables the ignition.
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Sep 8, 2016 01:55
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Classic car insurance and plates vary. Your insurance company will tell you how many miles etc they want you to drive, generally the thing with classic insurance is that it's an agreed value, so you don't get screwed on the sweet paint job or Chrome bits you had done custom (or rare nla parts that are $300 for a door hinge). They also may have requirements like car must be gsraged, only driven x a year, and not in snow, but it's usually cheaper. You may or may not be able to daily it. Can an insurance BROKER and have them find a company that fits your wants and needs.. calling all state or progressive will only get you what they offer. Generally classic car plates are lower in cost but have strict requirements like car is xx yesrs old, drive only to and from shows or club meets, and x miles a year, and no winter driving. You can for sure get normal passenger or truck plates and put them on your classic. This is my state, your state may vary.
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Sep 8, 2016 01:59
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