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Don't die, thread! Breathe you son of a bit
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Sep 7, 2016 20:14
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buttcrackmenace posted:Don't die, thread! Breathe you son of a bit ...urbo
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Sep 7, 2016 22:04
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Woah, I have a thread here? In truck news:  rockauto.jpg  PICK ONE WAREHOUSE JACKASSES.But with that purchase that almost completes the list of things need for the swap. The list thus far: Brake Lines [s] Headers Starter (Already have one in the ebay cart) [s] 350 mount kit And a tire shop has been procured. So things are starting to come together. I figure most of the electrical gubbins, like the ignition, battery, and whatnot can be used out of the van. Same with like the fuel tank, and any other stuff we might need. Hoses can be bought at the local parts store, so I'm not worried about that. What I am worried about however, is the transmission, and the ECU for the van. The transmission is in an unknown state. According the the PO and Djdanno, it's in a serviceable state, but I'm not sure how it'll hold up once it actually has to move the rest of the truck. However, since it seems this transmission is popular with the Jeep community, a rebuild kit isn't that expensive. It's only like ~$250. So I'm debating pulling the trigger on that. The next thought is if it's worth it to try and wire in the ECU and keep the TBI setup, or try and see if there's way to make a carb setup work. I mean, it shouldn't be that hard to rip out the wiring harness and assorted sensors and whatnot, but the main problem seems to be that I'd need to get an ECU from a similar Chevy with a manual transmission. (If I'm understanding this correctly. Please correct me if I'm wrong.) I'd like to try and reuse as much stuff out of the van as possible. Plus I'd be able to use the fuel tank and pump out of the van, saving on parts. The final issue is the radiator. I've read online that since that the bigger trucks came with larger radiators and it should be able to handle the extra heat load from the 350 without too much issue, just need to make a fan shroud to maximize airflow. However, this seems to be a bit contested. And seeing as how this truck has been sitting and has an unknown amount of buildup in the radiator, I'm thinking about springing for a new one. Problem being, while the market is flush with parts for the light duty trucks, this one, not so much. However, it seems that the radiator for a 1966 Mustang will work. These are kinda pricey though, but being that it's a pretty essential part, I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to swap it.
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Sep 8, 2016 01:37
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ExplodingSims posted:
You can still use the TBI pump and tank, you'd just need to install a bypass system. Making a carb setup work without using the TBI pump would mean installing a mechanical pump, which can be a pain in the rear end if the engine wasn't designed to mount a mechanical pump. orange juche fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 02:50
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Why not wire up an electric pump just ensure you have an accessible switch to cut it off if poo poo hits the fan. Did it with my vw. (I mean it wasn't a converted tbi to carb)
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Sep 8, 2016 03:16
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tater_salad posted:Why not wire up an electric pump just ensure you have an accessible switch to cut it off if poo poo hits the fan. Its not a matter of poo poo hitting the fan or not, an electric fuel pump for EFI engines in most cases produces about 80 PSI, and a mechanical pump produces 6-8 PSI. If you try to hook up a carburetor to a fuel pump made for a fuel injected engine, you will experience a lot of problems if you dont have a bypass to return the excess fuel to the tank. orange juche fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 04:28
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Tokyo Sexwhale posted:Making a carb setup work without using the TBI pump would mean installing a mechanical pump, which can be a pain in the rear end if the engine wasn't designed to mount a mechanical pump. That's probably a L05 engine. Some were, some weren't, cast with the mechanical fuel pump opening. If it was, it'll have a blockoff plate. But the cam for the TBI may or may not have the fuel pump lobe anyway. You can get low pressure electric fuel pumps easily though.
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Sep 8, 2016 04:50
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some texas redneck posted:That's probably a L05 engine. Some were, some weren't, cast with the mechanical fuel pump opening. If it was, it'll have a blockoff plate. But the cam for the TBI may or may not have the fuel pump lobe anyway. Sure enough 10 minutes of cursory googling says for somewhere between 50 and 100 bucks you can get a decent enough inline pump to feed a carburetor with no mechanical pump fuckery or return lines, probably good enough to get the truck home on. Just have to make sure the PSI from the pump matches what your carburetor wants, and install a cool-looking covered toggle switch somewhere on the dash so you can actually run the engine, won't even need to keep the ECU or anything, unless that thing has electronically controlled distribution or something else dumb. orange juche fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 05:01
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One of the things I cherish about AI is the fountains of knowledge available in how to make a modern engine regress technologically to just loving work.
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Sep 8, 2016 07:06
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Tokyo Sexwhale posted:unless that thing has electronically controlled distribution or something else dumb. To take this literally, yes, all of the domestics moved to electronic ignition in the mid 1970s.  But even only taking it semi literally, the ECU does control the timing and ignition.Nothing that a HEI distributor can't fix though. 
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Sep 8, 2016 07:49
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Tokyo Sexwhale posted:Its not a matter of poo poo hitting the fan or not, an electric fuel pump for EFI engines in most cases produces about 80 PSI, and a mechanical pump produces 6-8 PSI. If you try to hook up a carburetor to a fuel pump made for a fuel injected engine, you will experience a lot of problems if you dont have a bypass to return the excess fuel to the tank. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...CFY1bhgodejUOrQ an example of a fuel pump for carburetor engines.
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Sep 8, 2016 13:59
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Liquid Communism posted:One of the things I cherish about AI is the fountains of knowledge available in how to make a modern engine regress technologically to just loving work. Gas can, Hose, Mount above carb, drive.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:11
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Elephanthead posted:Gas can, Gas can? A two liter pop bottle taped to the antenna with a length of fuel line running out of it will do just fine as a gasoline IV. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0e9z4gwpXc Bonus: battery terminals
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Sep 8, 2016 15:09
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Liquid Communism posted:One of the things I cherish about AI is the fountains of knowledge available in how to make a modern engine regress technologically to just loving work. Yeah all you need to make a TBI motor run without computer fuckery is a carb intake manifold and carb, a distributor of your choice (HEI, as STR mentioned, would be pretty straightforward if you have the firewall clearance), and fuel delivery of your choice. STR was also correct about some of those blocks having provisions for a mechanical pump, and some cams having the appropriate lobe. Don't you have the donor vehicle already? Should be pretty easy to sort that out first. You can even get the new setup running before you leave, so any drivability issues get sorted out before you pull it. E: Oh, also, you might need to make a pigtail for the alternator, because that would go away with the rest of the stock wiring harness. One wire to +12V at the fuse block (voltage sense), one wire to switched 12V. Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 02:35
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Look man when do I get to hit the road already
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Sep 9, 2016 03:38
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14 BAR RIFF posted:Look man when do I get to hit the road already Just start heading his way and keep us updated on your progress Edit: don't ask me why I was looking but there are a few BiTurbos on eBay hovering around the $1200 mark at current bidding everdave fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 04:05
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I've been trying to look up carb conversion info, and so far I'm learned the following: It seems that a mechanical fuel pump can not be used. The L05 does come with the hole for it, but the cam doesn't have the lobe for it. It would seem that only extended to '90. But, that seems pretty inconsequential, as an electric fuel pump seems to be easy enough to find and setup. So that leaves the other points. I'd have to used a different gas tank, since the one for the van has the hole for the fuel pump on the top of the tank. Of course, this is assuming the tank that's in the truck is totally unusable. I mean, as long as it isn't rusted through or have anything living in it a good flushing and cleaning and it should be good to go right? (Yay leaded fuel residue!) The other potentially difficult part is finding the right intake manifold. This seems to be the recommended one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2104 Which is a bit pricey. Although, I have read that the manifold for 1988 K1500 will work. So it might be time to do some junkyard hunting. Fake edit. Maybe not? http://www.partstrain.com/store/det...kHLHRoCVaXw_wcB And then after that it's just finding the right carb and I'm pretty much good to go!
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Sep 10, 2016 02:56
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Anything for a SBC without Vortec heads will work. Best performance: Performer RPM air-gap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7501 Most affordable: Summit has these re-branded Weiand ones for cheap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226012 And of course there are a bunch of options in the middle. I generally go for stuff that has a square-bore setup rather than the square/spread, since you're gonna be using a square bore carb anyway. I had an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold that I would have given you for the cost of shipping, but I gave it away to my neighbor a few years ago because I had no use for it and didn't want to deal with selling it.  Maybe check your local craigslist? Might find some deals, and it's probably pretty easy to tell if a cast chunk of aluminum is messed up or not. As for carburetors, really any 4-barrel in the 600-650cfm range is gonna do you. Edelbrocks are (in my experience) easier to whack on and go, but Holleys (and derivatives) give you more adjustability. But since you aren't modifying the motor internally, just about anything will work in its stock configuration (maybe a jet change for elevation? I dunno, I'm at sea level) so see what you can get cheap in the right ballpark size-wise. Slapping an 850cfm carb on there won't work too well  E: As for the Professional Products manifolds, they're OK but they work. I have the Vortec Crosswind on my (vortec-headed) 350, and I'm really not satisfied with the fit and finish. Pipe thread fittings don't go into it very well, and the gasket surface is juuuust big enough to barely work, but they clearly skimped on material. But I'm still using it, because it still works. I guess you're just using this motor temporarily anyway, right? I think your idea about the junkyard might be a good one. I usually see at least one 60s or 70s pickup with a small block and some aluminum aftermarket intake manifold on it. You might get lucky and find something good for peanuts. Raluek fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 03:26
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I thought the TBI heads were still a bit different?
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Sep 10, 2016 03:45
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It's your prerogative and all but it seems to me that taking an injected engine that just ran for 1500? miles or so and pulling it apart to go carbureted isn't going improve simplicity and reliability. Unless you are planning to convert it before you leave? Have you looked to see what mode if any it goes into if the transmission signals are absent? It might be that you could cut 2/3rds of the wiring out and have it be quite happy for the drive back. I also seem to remember that TBI runs at 10-14psi (port injection runs way higher) and can be held back pretty easily by a carb float valve. I might just be remembering old subaru stuff though.
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Sep 10, 2016 03:55
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If it is just a matter of being able to swap over the TBI system, ECU and all, I'd love for that to be the case. I'm all for what is easiest and doesn't involve buying extra parts. I just can't seem to find a lot of info on swapping it over, and what kind of issues it presents. Seems most people prefer to go for the LT1, and pretty much everyone just carbs it.
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Sep 10, 2016 04:13
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gently caress it, leave the harnesses intact and let's see what happens if we stab it in as is
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Sep 10, 2016 04:16
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some texas redneck posted:I thought the TBI heads were still a bit different? As far as I know, they aren't. Even the Vortec ones aren't that much different, they are just missing the crossover in the middle and the bolts go at a different angle.
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Sep 10, 2016 04:34
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gently caress putting a 350 in it, you need to get your hands on one of these https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continental_AV1790
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Sep 10, 2016 06:04
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Sure, but the plan is to just put a known-running motor in it for now in order to get it home, then the crazy poo poo starts once it's in ES's clutches.
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Sep 10, 2016 08:53
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some texas redneck posted:I thought the TBI heads were still a bit different? You're thinking of the TBI heads vs the Vortec heads that I was considering at one point. Vortec heads use different intake manifold bolts to everything else (they're straight up/down instead of at an angle) ExplodingSims posted:If it is just a matter of being able to swap over the TBI system, ECU and all, I'd love for that to be the case. I'm all for what is easiest and doesn't involve buying extra parts. If it's anything like the TBI system in my failed van (which it is, as it is literally the same van) the PCM is the simplest thing known to man and doesn't even communicate with the trans, which is a fully-mechanical 700R4. Motherfucker doesn't even have a vehicle speed sensor. The control computer is super, super dumb. I don't think it's even speed-density (edit: looks like it is, cuz it's got a MAP, still) E: Did some quick googling and found this article about doing a carb to EFI conversion using a TBI setup of the same kind you've got; http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/tbi-efi-conversion.html It even has a link to a thread full of wiring diagrams easy as piss especially since you already have a functional setup Gotta love GM easymode. You can even buy preflashed ROMs for the L05 that make them slightly less lovely iirc. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Sep 11, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 01:54
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tater_salad posted:https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...CFY1bhgodejUOrQ Yep, Facet cubes are a common DIY fitment for Rover V8s (Buick 215) with SU carbs.
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Sep 11, 2016 02:04
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I'm still confused, why are you carb-swapping a relatively simple working engine? Since the swap doesn't need to be tidy, just attached, why spend time and money on this engine?
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Sep 13, 2016 17:32
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I'm not. I was just asking if it will swap without issue, or if I needed to get certain parts from a truck with a manual transmission. I don't so I'm not buying anything extra.
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Sep 13, 2016 17:39
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I shall chisel that into your tombstone by hand
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Sep 13, 2016 18:55
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I REGRET NOTHING. In other news, one of the final parts for the swap showed up today! Got my hands on a starter! It was....quite a bit bigger than I was expecting. Olive Oil carafe for scale:  And with that, I'm pretty sure the UPS man no longer will deliver anything to my house. 
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Sep 15, 2016 02:19
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The UPS dude hated us when the Gremlin bought two rust free gremlin doors off ebay and had them shipped.
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Sep 15, 2016 02:26
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Carb swap will end up costing more in the end than trying to finagle your working motor bits with a pretty big loss of reliability to boot. I can't imagine the transmission connections to ECU being anything complicated, going off vehicles of similar vintage with ECUs I remember only finding like speedo and reverse switch stuff.
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Sep 15, 2016 03:16
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What to know how to make a 2006 Explorer feel like a sports car? Drive a 20 yo van around for about half an hour. I fired up the van today for like the second time since I bought it. Put some fresh gas in, a a bit of Seafoam, and some injector cleaner. Fired it up, and let it run for a bit, and revved it. Then I actually drove it around the storage yard for a bit. It's slow, it's loud, and it smells awful, but it runs ok, and doesn't seem to be showing any major problems. Once I actually get it registered and tagged I plan to take it out and stomp on it a bit, and really see how it handles that. But first, its needs a total fluid change, new spark plugs, a new belt and some other basic maintenance. But man, this van the squishiest, most comfy seats in it. Its too bad the body is so trashed on this thing, otherwise it'd almost a fun project by itself.
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Sep 17, 2016 20:53
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > I Bought A
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Sep 17, 2016 21:26
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So when the time comes to rip the guts out of the van, you will have developed such strong emotional ties to it that you decide to keep it running. I get it.
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Sep 17, 2016 22:05
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ExplodingSims posted:And with that, I'm pretty sure the UPS man no longer will deliver anything to my house. 14 BAR RIFF posted:The UPS dude hated us when the Gremlin bought two rust free gremlin doors off ebay and had them shipped. God, UPS guys who drive residential routes are such huge whiny pussies. Back when I worked at UPS (which, admittedly, was almost 20 years ago now), every employee had to be able to live 75lbs. UPS normal packages could weigh up to 70lbs, while "Overweight" packages could weigh up to 150lbs. Drivers on urban and industrial routes routinely found their trucks stuffed full of heavy-as-gently caress stuff. We often saw things like engine blocks, whole office photocopiers, exhausts, etc. with just a UPS shipping label slapped onto it. One time a box came down the line that was just a roughly 2' cube, filled all the way up with 1/2" ball bearings. Obviously the box had turned into an amorphous blob, encased in multiple wrappings of packaging tape by numerous different UPS employees performing battlefield triage at every conveyor belt, chute, load, unload, and dock, and no doubt dozens or hundreds of balls had escaped the ruptured corners and edges as the box's condition deteriorated. That kind of thing was 100% routine poo poo. There was a four foot tall 90-lb mexican lady named Arrelis who worked the end of my preload line who never asked for help picking up the Overweights. She could cram thirty cow boxes into her package car in ninety seconds and wouldn't even break a sweat. Anyhoo my point is, if your residential pussy-rear end UPS delivery truck driver gives you the slightest guff about having to deliver something heavier than an envelope or maybe a box of eBay mickey mouse ceramic statuettes nestled lovingly into a cubic foot of Styrofoam peanuts, you kick him square in the balls and tell him some guy online named Leperflesh who split 94105 while preloading three cars at once in 1997 says he's a soft shitlicker, and while he's curled up on the ground clutching his nutsack, go through his wallet and find his teamster card and tear it up in front of his face. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Sep 17, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 22:55
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ionn posted:So when the time comes to rip the guts out of the van, you will have developed such strong emotional ties to it that you decide to keep it running. I get it. Nah, if there's one thing I learned from my other failed project, it's knowing when a body is beyond saving. In this case, the van still has a good heart, but its body is too far gone. Pretty much all the metal around the windows is shot:     Plus, the roof lip is pretty much gone in a few places, the wheels wells aren't great either, and the seals around all the glass is failing, so I'm sure it's got internal rot. Note the attractive rust streak there:  And the window on that side was busted, so it won't stay up, so I'm sure there's a fair amount of water and rust in the footwell and interior of the door. But I came up with a pretty pro solution for that:  And then, as much I like the kickass laminate flooring in the back, the guy who did it did a really lovely job, and just ran a bunch of wood screws through the wood and into the sheetmetal below, so I don't even wanna know what it looks like under the flooring there.  RIP Van, you were a kickass van in your prime, and your spirit will live on to power another kickass truck.
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Sep 18, 2016 00:15
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ExplodingSims posted:I don't even wanna know what it looks like under the flooring there. You must first find your own truth, and then show us pics of the spiders.
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Sep 18, 2016 05:50
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sounds like you should put the seats from the van in the back of the truck for your ridealong mechanic and gunner.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:22
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