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Cross-postin' my first Deathwatch dude, the Watch Master:   
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Sep 6, 2016 20:18
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Where in the US can I get fluorescent acrylic rod in like 1/8 or 3/32, both reasonably priced and not 10ft worth? I only need about a foot.
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Sep 6, 2016 20:37
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Cat Face Joe posted:Where in the US can I get fluorescent acrylic rod in like 1/8 or 3/32, both reasonably priced and not 10ft worth? I only need about a foot. My local hobby store has some just in a bin next to the plasticard and whatnot. Not sure on the brand though since it's just loose. All else fails and if you only need small sections, LEGO lightsabers might work.
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Sep 6, 2016 20:45
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Plastruct is the company that makes them. You'll typically find them in with all of the scale-model tubing and angle-iron and I-beams and such. I used it to replace all of the gauss rods for my Necrons:  I think this is either the 3/32" or 1/8" rod. It comes in 1 foot lengths. It's normally sort of a fluorescent pink, I actually hit it with a few layers of Future + red ink to make it that crimson color.
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Sep 6, 2016 20:56
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross-postin' my first Deathwatch dude, the Watch Master: 
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Sep 6, 2016 21:31
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Zhent posted:Saw this posted somewhere else and was curious - is there any actual advantage of using something like this over simply sticking a model on a wine cork? I've seen this KS kicking around a few different places, and while it seems neat, and the bar to rest on is definitely a plus, not having any base adapters for any Warmachine models (or any other round, lipped bases) outside of the smallest 30mm bases is a huge turn-off. Even something in one of the updates saying "hey, we're making  , here's a neat stretch goal we're adding" would've been nice. I mean, it's not bad if you want to stick to smaller models, or have your bigger stuff pinned already, but dismissing it completely so early on is disappointing.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:09
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Cat Face Joe posted:Where in the US can I get fluorescent acrylic rod in like 1/8 or 3/32, both reasonably priced and not 10ft worth? I only need about a foot. Plastruct makes at least red, blue and green fluorescent acrylic rod in those dimensions, probably find it on Amazon for less than $10 shipped.
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Sep 6, 2016 23:36
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I tested three sealers I had on the battle board, spraying a bit into corners I could easily repaint if something happened: - Purity Seal - Hazed up a milky white. - Army Painter Matte Sealer - No hazing, dried clear and matte. Seemed about the same as the rest of the board with no color change. Good thick layer. - Crystal Clear Enamel + Dullcote - Very shiny at angles, probably more dull cote would bring that down. Seemed to darken the colors a tad. Decided to spray the whole thing with Army Painter. This is going well, but it looks like it hazed in one spot - exactly where I initially sprayed during the application of the full coat (not the test corner, but a different spot). That's a mistake on my part to not spray out a bit elsewhere after shaking it up. The rest is drying fine. I'll just repaint the hazed spot since it isn't on any details. I can see why people use bottled lacquers, the sprays are really sensitive to their propellant mix and temperature. Also, the board is big so it takes a lot of spray. The bottled lacquer would be easier to guarantee complete coverage.
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Sep 7, 2016 03:35
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GreenMarine posted:I tested three sealers I had on the battle board, spraying a bit into corners I could easily repaint if something happened: Don't repaint the hazed spot. Hit it with gloss varnish then matte it again. The gloss varnish eats away the matte and can be dulled down again with 1-3 coats.
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Sep 7, 2016 06:06
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Aniodia posted:I've seen this KS kicking around a few different places, and while it seems neat, and the bar to rest on is definitely a plus, not having any base adapters for any Warmachine models (or any other round, lipped bases) outside of the smallest 30mm bases is a huge turn-off. Even something in one of the updates saying "hey, we're making Apparently, they're in development. They're expecting to have something ready in 2017.
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Sep 7, 2016 10:30
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Cross-postin' my first Deathwatch dude, the Watch Master: Very Nicely done! I'm still painting my cult (pics shortly Big_G has been harranguing me to get them on here sharpish) but I do love the look of the DW. How are you finding those bases btw? i've seen a fair few compliaints over the detail on them not being very sharp. Pete
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Sep 7, 2016 12:17
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Zhent posted:Saw this posted somewhere else and was curious - is there any actual advantage of using something like this over simply sticking a model on a wine cork? you can just buy https://www.pk-pro.de/Miniature-Holder already, no need to wait on a kickstarter that might crash and burn! it's not the exact same system, but it's the same general idea.
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Sep 7, 2016 13:19
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Frobbe posted:you can just buy https://www.pk-pro.de/Miniature-Holder already, no need to wait on a kickstarter that might crash and burn! it's not the exact same system, but it's the same general idea. It's the same people that make those, the one on the kickstarter is V3, the one there is V2 and sadly not available by the looks. the 5k euro they wanted for the KS was long passed, i think they're about to break 100,000. Melonfish
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Sep 7, 2016 14:06
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melonfish posted:It's the same people that make those, the one on the kickstarter is V3, the one there is V2 and sadly not available by the looks. Also they're of a similar price, only the kickstarter ones look way nicer. Neuro "Neurolimal" Limal
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Sep 7, 2016 15:57
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melonfish posted:Very Nicely done! I'm still painting my cult (pics shortly Big_G has been harranguing me to get them on here sharpish) but I do love the look of the DW. How are you finding those bases btw? i've seen a fair few compliaints over the detail on them not being very sharp. Thanks! No real complaints about the base detail from me, it's not quite as sharp as the models but it's fine for the purpose, I like them!
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Sep 7, 2016 17:07
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_Gumby posted:I've been trying to improve my photography a bit so i've been taking a few photos of this guy The theory is that you want to have large light sources, not strong, but large in physical size. This means that your tiny on camera flash sucks for this, because it's a tiny point source when what you want is something that at least 1x1 foot or larger. Unless you're actually a photographer, and own soft boxes and such, the best way to do it is by bouncing light. The easiest way to get yourself some nice even soft light is to have natural light coming through a window, but photograph your models out of direct sunlight, and surrounded by white pieces of paper. to bounce the light back at the model evenly. Here's an extremely lazy example, that kinda shows where your bounced light should be coming from. Notice how there's almost no shadows, it allows a lot more painted detail to get through as opposed to being hidden in shadows. I don't know if this is useful, but I'd recommend just looking up product photography tutorials, because the techniques will almost always be identical to what you'd want to do with miniatures.   I just about finished my first mini ever this week, I've owned a handful of 40K models form years ago but never got around to painting any of them. It's still pretty rough around the edges, and has missed details, but I'm pretty happy with the blending from the edges I managed to achieve. Need to get some plastic models next though, these pewter ones seem to be a bit rough in their texture.
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Sep 8, 2016 02:54
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X-post from 30k thread. The Sisko posted:Finally got some 30k hobbying in. Still got a few details left but by and large these guys are done.
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Sep 8, 2016 06:02
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I still really like that GUO conversion, and will probably need to make one of my own now. For anyone who does a lot of painting away from their home workbench, how do you transport your stuff? My gaming group is trying to set up a semi-regular painting day, but I don't have any easy way to move everything, and if I just toss it into a box I'd worry about the brushes getting banged around.
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Sep 8, 2016 12:28
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I've never needed anything more than the plastic caps over the bristles and mine just get chucked in the front pocket of a rucksack
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Sep 8, 2016 13:26
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Airbrushing question: I picked up one each of the Vallejo Air primers. You guys spray it straight, with no dilution, correct? I wasn't a fan of the Badger Styyynlrenzzzer primers, so I decided to give these a try. Also, what airbrush varnish do you guys recommend - both matte and gloss.
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Sep 8, 2016 14:57
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berzerkmonkey posted:Airbrushing question: I picked up one each of the Vallejo Air primers. You guys spray it straight, with no dilution, correct? I wasn't a fan of the Badger Styyynlrenzzzer primers, so I decided to give these a try. I've never had to dilute the Vallejo primer but I'm surprised to hear you didn't like Stylnerlelzerz
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Sep 8, 2016 15:00
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berzerkmonkey posted:Airbrushing question: I picked up one each of the Vallejo Air primers. You guys spray it straight, with no dilution, correct? I wasn't a fan of the Badger Styyynlrenzzzer primers, so I decided to give these a try. Liquitex for both, though the matte is matte as gently caress, you may want to go for the satin
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Sep 8, 2016 15:26
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TTerrible posted:I've never had to dilute the Vallejo primer but I'm surprised to hear you didn't like Stylnerlelzerz I like the Vallejo on plastic, but it always gives me problems (rubbing off) on metals. Sty-whatsit has been pretty good for me on metals.
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Sep 8, 2016 15:37
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Zhent posted:I still really like that GUO conversion, and will probably need to make one of my own now. I take whatever I'm painting, which usually fits in my typical KR case, and then a handful of paints that I know I'll be using. I'm not bringing my full selection of colors because that's ridiculous but I'll bring along a dozen to two dozen paints, either in the foam or in a bag or box or whatever, and the brushes I just keep the plastic tip protectors on. I usually bring them in their little sleeves that you buy brushes in; transporting this stuff isn't hard so long as you go with a plan of what you're doing.
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Sep 8, 2016 18:30
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If you want to get really serious about it, KR sell trays for putting painting supplies in their cases. https://www.krmulticase.com/accessories
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Sep 8, 2016 18:45
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Skarsnik posted:Liquitex for both, though the matte is matte as gently caress, you may want to go for the satin If I want to airbrush Liquitex matte, do I need to dilute, and if so with what? Distilled water work ok?
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Sep 8, 2016 18:54
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Nah just straight But really, its almost too matte, it'll dull down a paint job too much, make it look dusty almost Go for the satin
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Sep 8, 2016 19:15
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I've found that Vallejo matte has the same problems as Liquitex. I just gloss coat with Future Floor and do my matte with Dullcote from a rattlecan. Sure, Dullcote is expensive as hell, but the results are solid.
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Sep 8, 2016 20:36
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Zhent posted:I still really like that GUO conversion, and will probably need to make one of my own now. I use magic TCG fatpack boxes for paints. Neatly stores them in 7x3 config. Brushes go into what I later found out was a padded high-end watch/necklace case. I used to think it was made for brushes. In fact, it was my first post on this thread so it's really easy to find: Chill la Chill posted:Hi guys, I'm in need of one of these cuz I'm getting a couple new brushes. Do any of you know what it's called? Apparently painting case isn't the name for these things.
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Sep 8, 2016 20:55
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TTerrible posted:I've never had to dilute the Vallejo primer but I'm surprised to hear you didn't like Stylnerlelzerz I tried the white and it was coming out kind of runny in that the coverage was poor and kind of collected in the nooks and crannies. I haven't tried the black yet.
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Sep 8, 2016 21:53
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I am intentionally painting stuff that could fit into a game of frostgrave so that I could play it with out of town friends when they come to visit, assuming I get enough stuff painted I'm really enjoying your adventures in 15mm and they are appealing for Frostgrave. Mainly that's because I'm picturing how the terrain could be relatively larger too, make the frozen city look epic.
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Sep 8, 2016 22:08
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Does anyone wanna see some gremlins?           I got some Woodland Scenics Water Effects, but that seems to mostly be for running water and waterfalls. I think I need Woodland Scenics Still Water to do the kind of murky ponds that I'm looking for. I think those will really tie the swamp together. Suggestions for the two signs in back? If I can't think of anything better I'm just going to put a little arrow on rami's sign and 'defense de fumer' on pere's larger sign.
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Sep 9, 2016 15:53
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Don't buy Woodland Scenics water stuff. I'm pretty sure Water Effects is just a gloss gel acrylic medium, which you can get for half the price. Likewise, I think Realistic Water is just a gloss fluid acrylic medium, which you can also get for cheap. However, lots of people prefer clear two-part epoxy for pools of water. ArtResin might be a good choice here, since it's designed for sealing art, and as such has a lot of anti-yellowing agents (you probably don't want your water to look like urine after a month).
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Sep 9, 2016 17:55
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Ignite Memories posted:Does anyone wanna see some gremlins? I love these things.
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Sep 9, 2016 18:57
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Easiest paintjob ever.  I thought about doing some glowing eyes or something, but that's  for a model I'll almost never play.
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Sep 9, 2016 20:29
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Ignite Memories posted:Does anyone wanna see some gremlins? These guys look good! Just clean up the base rims with another coat of black and I think they'll be all set. Fyrbrand posted:Easiest paintjob ever.
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Sep 9, 2016 21:37
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"What is the greatest lie ever created? What is the most vicious obscenity ever perpetrated on mankind? Slavery? The Holocaust? Dictatorship? No. It's the tool with which all that wickedness is built: altruism."   "Whenever anyone wants others to do their work, they call upon their altruism. Never mind your own needs, they say, think of the needs of... of whoever."   "The state. The poor. Of the army, of the king, of God! The list goes on and on."   "How many catastrophes were launched with the words "think of yourself"? It's the "king and country" crowd who light the torch of destruction."   "It is this great inversion, this ancient lie, which has chained humanity to an endless cycle of guilt and failure"   "On the surface, I once bought a forest. The parasites claimed that the land belonged to God, and demanded that I establish a public park there. Why? So the rabble could stand slack-jawed under the canopy and pretend that it was paradise *earned*. When Congress moved to nationalize my forest, I burnt it to the ground. God did not plant the seeds of this Arcadia - I did." 
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Sep 10, 2016 02:20
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/\/\/\ Cool stuff man. SRM posted:
Thanks man. It's a Boneswarm. Not a particularly good model or creative name, but at least I can say I have one painted now.
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Sep 10, 2016 02:52
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Are the Bioshock dudes bought from somewhere or did you do some kickass conversion work?
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Sep 10, 2016 03:25
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Floppychop posted:Are the Bioshock dudes bought from somewhere or did you do some kickass conversion work? The women are converted from Copplestone Casting's "Gun Molls" I had limited resources available for conversion, so the masks and hooks are made from scraps of plasticard. The pipe is made from bits of sprues and greenstuff. The weird facial growths are greenstuff. There's a couple of hand swaps sourced from Frostgrave bits. Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Sep 10, 2016 |
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Sep 10, 2016 04:38
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