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Oil pressure switch is on or off, the light comes on at 2.1 psi or lower, which means the engine is hosed and I would expect it to be making bad noises.
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Sep 11, 2016 03:32
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A piece of the pre-cat broke off and stopped up the turbo recently. Today I finally got in there to confirm that was the case, and was pleasantly surprised to find that the turbo is actually in pretty drat good condition. I'm gonna skip rebuilding or replacing it, and just get it back in there tomorrow. Time to start looking for replacement up-pipes. This car has dodged an awful lot of bullets over the past three or four weeks. Knock on wood. 
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Sep 11, 2016 03:46
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On my 2012 Impreza cluster there is a yellow oil light and a red oil light. I know the red one is an "oh poo poo immediately turn off car and pull over" light, what about the yellow one?
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Sep 11, 2016 03:54
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Naked Bear posted:A piece of the pre-cat broke off and stopped up the turbo recently. Today I finally got in there to confirm that was the case, and was pleasantly surprised to find that the turbo is actually in pretty drat good condition. I'm gonna skip rebuilding or replacing it, and just get it back in there tomorrow. Time to start looking for replacement up-pipes. Oh my god you got lucky. I have the Invidia pipe on the way for mine and heard its good and also the cheapest one.
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Sep 11, 2016 03:56
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Yeah I can't come up with a very good reason to get something else. Also I think i offer pretty decent prices on invidia.
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Sep 11, 2016 04:13
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That was my first thought. I'll probably shoot you an email sometime in the near future.
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Sep 11, 2016 04:41
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Totally TWISTED posted:On my 2012 Impreza cluster there is a yellow oil light and a red oil light. I know the red one is an "oh poo poo immediately turn off car and pull over" light, what about the yellow one? Low oil light I believe.
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Sep 11, 2016 05:26
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PabloBOOM posted:Is it normally a variable light for oil pressure, though? I readily admit driving a car with any oil issues is inviting catastrophe, but I'm trying to rule out stuff I can do easily already without having a crash course in troubleshooting hard to access/expensive parts. Only thing I know how to do with oil is change it. Sensors and pumps? Couldn't pick them out of a lineup (yet) The Malfunction Indicator Lights (MIL) on your dash are either on or off. Each individual light does not vary in color or intensity, at least by design. If yours is dim, or changes shade or brightness, it has nothing to do with the informational content of the light and maybe more to do with variations in voltage coming through the lamp circuit. The Check Engine Light (CEL) however can flash or blink. A blinking CEL is a Very Bad Thing. A "pull over and call a tow truck right now because you've already done damage" thing, usually.
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Sep 11, 2016 17:29
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Blinking CELs ususally mean an active knock (ping), which isn't good at all, but depending on how the car is being driven, it may not be a 'call tow truck' scenario. It can show up in the midst of tuning when working on the spark tables or at the peak boost areas, but unless in the most bizarre edge cases, it shouldn't show up on the street.
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Sep 11, 2016 18:40
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Double post: Just took a thousand-mile trip to the Redwoods National Park in my 2000 Outback (base) after getting the head gaskets, timing belt, etc replaced. New axles as well. About halfway through the trip, I realized I'd rescued this car from its former life of going from garage to store to clarinet lessons to the garage again. The prior owner apparently didn't even have a dog! So we drove up mountains and down mountains, on logging roads and forest roads (Howland Hill Road in Jedediah Smith State Park is awesome), forded streams (!) and brought it home dirty. At 146k miles, my Rescue Subaru has finally been been baptized in dirt and water. 
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Sep 11, 2016 18:44
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Finally attempted spark plugs on my 09 wrx hatch. Holy hell, it was as annoying as I expected. I bought a gear wrench 5/8 x 6" spark plug socket and it worked well enough except for installing the rear plugs. The snap-on one Jamal recommend was too much $$ for me. For the rears, I used a plain spark plug socket with the plug on it, then slid it in, then added a 2" extension on to hand start the new plug. After a few turns, I then used the special tool. I did not trust the gear wrench tool to not cross thread anything as the feedback was pretty mushy. Anyway, not too terrible, but a few hours for the second time doing this on a Subaru.
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Sep 11, 2016 19:00
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Test fit a set of 15" steelies on the wife's Impreza, can confirm they fit fine. Going to take advantage of the Costco $70 Bridgestone rebate and buy a set of ws80's in 195/65r15 for $370 CAD pre tax and mount. The steelies were dirt cheap for $65 for the set off of Kijiji. Man, I love cheap wheels and tires.
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Sep 11, 2016 19:14
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Finally attempted spark plugs on my 09 wrx hatch. Holy hell, it was as annoying as I expected. I bought a gear wrench 5/8 x 6" spark plug socket and it worked well enough except for installing the rear plugs. The snap-on one Jamal recommend was too much $$ for me. For the rears, I used a plain spark plug socket with the plug on it, then slid it in, then added a 2" extension on to hand start the new plug. After a few turns, I then used the special tool. I did not trust the gear wrench tool to not cross thread anything as the feedback was pretty mushy. Anyway, not too terrible, but a few hours for the second time doing this on a Subaru. Don't know if your 09 is different than my 00 Outback, but the coil end of my plug wires fits over the end of my plugs. Next time you change your wires, cut the boot off the end of the old wire and use the other end to start your plug.
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Sep 12, 2016 00:19
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09 has coil packs, but my brother wants me to help him with his outback sport. From what I recall, he has what you describe on his car. Also, the plastic air duct from the compressor on the driver side was kind of a bitch to move out of the way. Getting it back on was even worse.
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Sep 12, 2016 00:25
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09 has coilpacks and is DOHC. 00 outback is SOHC so the plugs are angled up and much easier to access. But a short extension on a regular socket works well to get the plug started without the double flex deal I use.
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Sep 12, 2016 00:52
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I just got myself a 2016 Impreza Sport Premium hatch. Does anyone happen to know a bumper protector such as this one that will fit? I'm finding a lot of conflicting answers on the ones I'm seeing on whether or not they will work.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:[I stripped out the transmission crossmember captive nut.] FYI, Helicoiling it seems to have worked so far. Hopefully it continues to hold up throughout the winter. Next step in fixing this thing is going to be getting an alignment and letting someone else try to re-index the steering shaft without breaking the clockspring. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 12, 2016 05:13
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Myrmidongs posted:I just got myself a 2016 Impreza Sport Premium hatch. Does anyone happen to know a bumper protector such as this one that will fit? I used the Subaru one on my 2009 WRX. Probably way more expensive than a chunk of plastic with double sided tape should be, but it was a perfect fit.
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Sep 12, 2016 06:49
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DJ Commie posted:Blinking CELs ususally mean an active knock (ping), which isn't good at all, but depending on how the car is being driven, it may not be a 'call tow truck' scenario. It can show up in the midst of tuning when working on the spark tables or at the peak boost areas, but unless in the most bizarre edge cases, it shouldn't show up on the street. I've had it blink on my '98 when it (incorrectly) detects a misfire. Hasn't happened in a while now but when it did there was no noticeable sound or hiccup in power. Annoying as heck. Changed the coil pack, plugs, and wires to no effect. Still passes emissions fine so I assume I didn't destroy up the cats. Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 12, 2016 08:26
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Just want to clear up some general things about trouble codes in this thread. If a CEL is blinking, that's indicating a misfire or P0300 usually. I wouldn't necessarily say it's "pull over and tow" sort of scenario, but if this is happening the car obviously isn't running well and something needs attention. Also for codes that don't show up right away: You need multiple drive cycles to get 2-3 consecutive failures for a CEL/MIL to show up on many codes. Some will set with 1 failure, but many take more failures on the engine side at least before setting a CEL. 
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Sep 12, 2016 13:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:
So THAT'S how the body shop that did my wife's car managed to kill the SZL. I'm glad they sent it to BMW to fix it and paid for it, because no way was I gonna fork out $1100 for a repair that they hosed up. Coincidentally, I wonder if I can re-index my steering on the 08 impreza without breaking something. It seems to always kinda want to go right. Maybe alignment first.
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Sep 12, 2016 15:51
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I gotta replace a radiator on an '04 Forester, anyone know a good place to get a cheap one? Car has like 230k miles on it and the plastic radiator finally broke enough for me to actually decide its time to change it out. The top side of it has been cracked for a while and I would just refill it as needed. Considered melting a soda bottle on it or something but that seems a bit too sketchy for what would otherwise still be a cheap enough fix. But the other night me and my gf were sliding it around and it finally cracked enough to where it leaks and steams so much that the occasional top-off will not last for more than a day.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:48
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Thief posted:I gotta replace a radiator on an '04 Forester, anyone know a good place to get a cheap one? I've put this one in a couple cars. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=539613&cc=1426788&jsn=440
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Sep 13, 2016 00:35
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Larrymer posted:Just want to clear up some general things about trouble codes in this thread. If a CEL is blinking, that's indicating a misfire or P0300 usually. I wouldn't necessarily say it's "pull over and tow" sort of scenario, but if this is happening the car obviously isn't running well and something needs attention. Also for codes that don't show up right away: You need multiple drive cycles to get 2-3 consecutive failures for a CEL/MIL to show up on many codes. Some will set with 1 failure, but many take more failures on the engine side at least before setting a CEL. Well that's the thing, the car runs great. No other codes, fuel mileage is good, etc. What would cause a misfire code with no apparent issue whatsoever? It only happens very rarely, like once or twice a year. It's always the same two though, P0301 and P0304.
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Sep 13, 2016 00:58
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Sparkplugs/spark related issues?
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Sep 13, 2016 01:17
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Sudo Echo posted:Well that's the thing, the car runs great. No other codes, fuel mileage is good, etc. What would cause a misfire code with no apparent issue whatsoever? It only happens very rarely, like once or twice a year. It's always the same two though, P0301 and P0304. Lots of things. Old spark plugs, fuel filter, Dirty MAF, Vacuum leaks. coil packs, etc
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Sep 13, 2016 01:26
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Replaced coilpack, wires, and plugs to no effect. Air filter is clean, can't find any vacuum leaks (searched like hell), not sure about the MAF but with no other symptoms how dirty could it be?
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Sep 13, 2016 02:07
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You'd be surprised  (it's probably the MAF, a datalog would help)
literally a fish fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 02:09
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I do have one of those cheapo little OBD2 readers I use to reset the codes, is there any way to look at the data with it? I know it's never actually been cleaned or anything, the car is 99% original except for consumables and the headgaskets (thank god).
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Sep 13, 2016 02:22
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Myrmidongs posted:I just got myself a 2016 Impreza Sport Premium hatch. Does anyone happen to know a bumper protector such as this one that will fit? It should, they're mostly the same as the XV. I have the heavy duty clear vinyl one on my 2012 which has worked fine so far.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:36
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So it turns out my check engine light wasn't because of the gas cap as the light came back on while driving to the dealer for an oil change and a clean bill of health. Instead, a spider web had clogged the evap control vent which was causing it. So while (I suppose) this turned out to not be a serious problem, at least the timing worked out to coincide with my oil change.
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Sep 13, 2016 03:17
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Edward IV posted:So it turns out my check engine light wasn't because of the gas cap as the light came back on while driving to the dealer for an oil change and a clean bill of health. Instead, a spider web had clogged the evap control vent which was causing it. So while (I suppose) this turned out to not be a serious problem, at least the timing worked out to coincide with my oil change. There have been some recalls related to this by other manufacturers. I can't find a reliable source that the spiders are actually attracted to gasoline, but there seems to be a correlation of some sort.
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Sep 13, 2016 03:48
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Mostly Mazdas, IIRC.
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Sep 13, 2016 13:22
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Checking the Android auto page for Subaru suggests that there may be some software updates made available for existing owners ( 2015+). Is it really as simple as a firmware update? I have made no secret of my dislike for the stock system in my 16 wrx, if I could simply mirror my phone, I would be so much happier.
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Sep 13, 2016 13:34
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I've been trying to deal with an engine issue in my 08 WRX for a few weeks (most people who read this thread probably saw it). The shop it's at now did some research and found that it's 99% a connecting rod issue which subaru knew about. I'm past the extended warranty but subaru gave me a $500 coupon for parts if I decide to fix it, which is where I need advice. I've talked to 3 shops (including one that supposedly specializes in subarus which it's at now) and all said basically my only cost-effective option is a used motor. I found one online at a salvage yard for ~3500 with 87k miles on it (my broken one has 68k) and I can buy a warranty (1 year or lifetimes parts and labor for an extra 1000-1500). My major concerns are: The shop it's at now can't give me a quote on how much it will cost to fix because they don't know what else might need to be replaced (timing belt, clutch, pumps and other stuff I don't know about) and what condition the used engine is in. But they said at least 3k in labor for putting in an engine. I have no experience with used parts, am I crazy to put a used engine in? The place seems reputable but there's still lots of unknowns. Also, what are the odds my turbo goes bad soon because of the rod (as of now it doesn't show any signs of damage)? Is it worth junking the car? I had a place offer 4500 if the rest is in good shape (it is) but that's for a car I paid 13500 for less than a year ago. I'd rather fix it but I don't know if it's worth the head ache and worry about what will go wrong next.
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Sep 13, 2016 17:49
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I think you need to find a new place, possibly outside of town. Spending more than a rebuild should cost to install a used motor of unknown quality is not a good plan. I would also ask why they couldn't just install a new OEM shortblock, which are about 2k. Innovative tuning in Buffalo and Kaizen outside of boston are both kind of far away but they could know somewhere closer. Although towing a car to either might still be cheaper and easier.
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Sep 13, 2016 18:48
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Don't pay $3500+labor for a used long block. This is going to cost you a chunk of change either way, get it out of sight or do it right.
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Sep 13, 2016 19:24
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jamal posted:I think you need to find a new place, possibly outside of town. Spending more than a rebuild should cost to install a used motor of unknown quality is not a good plan. I would also ask why they couldn't just install a new OEM shortblock, which are about 2k. I'll give these places a call and see what they can tell me. I asked several places about a short block and the vague answer I always got was that they weren't interested because it was so labor intensive. The place it's at now would have to disassemble the old block, ship out parts for machining that need it and then reassemble which they said would definitely be more money than a used motor and didn't seem all too confident a rebuild would be the reliable long term choice (aka they don't do often and probably aren't confident in doing it right IMHO) So basically it's looking more and more like I should just cut my (massive) losses and sell it. How much should I be asking for a stock 08 with 68k miles and a broken motor? P.S. how long does it usually take for a spun bearing to completely fail? I'm sure it's one of those things that can fail at any moment but is there like an average of how many miles it takes? Is it safe to take to the grocery store a few miles away until it's sold or should I not even risk it? Immolat1on fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 19:50
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Sudo Echo posted:What would cause a misfire code with no apparent issue whatsoever? It only happens very rarely, like once or twice a year. It's always the same two though, P0301 and P0304. I've now developed the same misfire. Is it contagious? 
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Sep 13, 2016 22:46
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Trying to verify the right LED replacement bulb for my 00 OBW instrument panel. I've got 2 of the 4 "big lights" out, and my speedo and tach are very hard to see. I'm looking for a wedge bulb, and something type "74", right? Like this?
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Sep 14, 2016 00:00
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