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Satone posted:This is the first computer I've set myself to building and its not quite finished yet, I still need the GPU, but I should have that in a about a week or so. I did a ton of research picking out parts and whatnot, so I'm really psyched that all research I did lined up with the OP's advice really well. The power supply looks like its gonna be a bit more than I need, but I figure that will give me room for upgrades down the line. I didn't feel like I needed a particularly great monitor, its just a used 19'' HP. I may upgrade it in the future, but right now I just don't want to drop the extra cash on something far more expensive. I expect this system to run a range of usages including (obviously) gaming and coding, so I selected parts for a higher end build on the expectation of getting at least some heavy workload out of it. Get a better SSD - a Samsung 850 EVO or a Sandisk X400. The one you have picked is by no stretch of the imagination "high end".
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Sep 11, 2016 11:59
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Get a 250GB rather than 120GB one, as well, since they're only $20-$30 more expensive for twice the space. It'll let you keep a few games installed on it for fast load times.
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Sep 11, 2016 12:11
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As said, you have an overclock-capable motherboard, so I think you'd be better off with an i7-6700k or i5-6600k if you're going to overclock (and why not). I also recommend the Samsung 850 EVO 250 or 500GB instead of what you have. As for the PSU, I'm not sure what you mean by 'upgrades', but 750W is still way overkill unless you're talking about getting a second graphics card. Newer parts actually tend to consume less power, not more. Drop down to 650W, that should still give you enough headroom for overclocking and such. That is unless you found a really good deal for the 750W, then it wouldn't hurt I suppose.
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Sep 11, 2016 13:04
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becoming posted:I haven't personally built in one (yet), but most folks seem to say that it's pretty pleasant to build in, for the most part. Still, I get what you're saying: a $215 (shipped) case suddenly becomes a bit more expensive when you need to sell your current PSU for a loss and buy an SFX one. I think I forgot a couple of requisites. A windowed panel and airflow. The Ethoo Evolv has the window but apparently lacking in airflow. And build quality for that matter. I'm honestly a bit disappointed at the lack of quality options in smaller cases right now. It's mostly either really cheap or some expensive case on a waiting list. There aren't many in between options for solidly built cases that look interesting. poo poo, there's hardly any interesting choices really.
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Sep 11, 2016 14:14
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Satone posted:
Or honestly just place your tower anywhere that drinks aren't going to spill into it. My case has a top fan but my tower is under my desk, pretty much directly under my monitors. I can have ten drinks surrounding my keyboard and mouse, knock em all over at once and my computer won't get hit. In a previous life working in a computer repair shop I was disturbed to see just how common it is to spill drinks into a top vent.
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Sep 11, 2016 15:17
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adomorn posted:Rosewill Steel/Plastic ATX Mid Tower You have an Intel processor from 7 years ago with DDR4 in an AMD motherboard with a really old model of SSD. What is going on here? This won't even fit together, much less be a good idea. If you want to spend $400 on a home server, get one of the Dell deals for the Poweredge T20 or T130 or build a system with a Skylake i3 or i5 (if you can stretch a bit).
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Sep 11, 2016 17:32
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Overclocking is something I'm interested in getting into, but this K CPU bit is something that slipped by my research. Also want to get this finished before I start having to dick around with liquid cooling.
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Sep 11, 2016 18:54
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Eletriarnation posted:You have an Intel processor from 7 years ago with DDR4 in an AMD motherboard with a really old model of SSD. What is going on here? This won't even fit together, much less be a good idea. Frankenstein I guess. That was the result of an hour of looking around for really cheap parts. The T20 deals look a little more expensive but dang... maybe not such a bad idea. Thanks. I've got a lot of learning to do. If I got these parts separately to be about the same price. adomorn fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Sep 11, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 20:45
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adomorn posted:What country are you in? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99) Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($39.99) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($32.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.00 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($24.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $298.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-11 16:18 EDT-0400 You have a Micro Center nearby so CPU and mobo are from there. Rest is online. Tax not taken into account. You also have room left in your budget for a few more drives, though the case will only hold three.
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Sep 11, 2016 21:23
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 I don't find this system struggling much (it's actually at 4ghz contrary to the speccy report) just wondering if there is some new hotness that might justify a new build. I was mostly thinking of upgrading due to wanting to change to a new 30" monitor as my current dell 3008wfp was good for it's day but runs very, very hot, and has really lovely black levels for movies. Assuming I go for a modern dell equivalent at 2560x1600 or 4k is a gtx1080 going to be bottlenecked my current setup? System is primarily for gaming, video encoding and ableton live (though I don't do massive arrangements and don't use many plugins)
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Sep 11, 2016 23:03
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Banano posted:
A single 1080 won't be able to run most games in 4k maxed or close to max at decent framerates (it would run a 16:9 1440p or non-4k ultrawide to >60fps maxed on most games). Don't buy a dell monitor - they're nice but you can save a lot of money getting an acer/benq/equivalent. Upgrading from your current system would be mainly to go to a dx12 setup and to take advantage of the multithreading available on newer processors. Your current CPU would very certainly bottleneck the system with a 1080 in the mix.
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Sep 11, 2016 23:15
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I've got an i5-4590 - and I've noticed the stock heatsink fan is a bit noisy under load - what should I look for in a replacement/aftermarket? Don't need anything elaborate, just something that will be hopefully quieter. And do I need to buy new thermal paste separately or should coolers come with enough?
Oxyclean fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 23:49
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Oxyclean posted:I've got an i5-4590 - and I've noticed the stock heatsink fan is a bit noisy under load - what should I look for in a replacement/aftermarket? Don't need anything elaborate, just something that will be hopefully quieter. And do I need to buy new thermal paste separately or should coolers come with enough? I would recommend a ~$35 cooler master hyper 212 evo, and yes buy a $5 tube of thermal paste (arctic silver 5), you should be reapplying paste every time a cooler is removed. Isopropynol alcohol on a paper towel is fine to remove the old paste.
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Sep 12, 2016 01:03
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The cooler I bought came with a tube of paste and it was way more than I needed, and I think I already put too much. Also the instructions told me to spread the paste, but then I looked online and everyone was saying not to do that 
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Sep 12, 2016 01:27
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I should probably reseat the cooler snd thermal paste after 5 years right? I'm trying to wait until Cyber Monday to upgrade my case and ram. Will be cleaning everything out then if I can make it.
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Sep 12, 2016 01:34
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goodness posted:I should probably reseat the cooler snd thermal paste after 5 years right? I'm trying to wait until Cyber Monday to upgrade my case and ram. Will be cleaning everything out then if I can make it. If it's working fine (ie you aren't having problem with temps) just leave it, use some compressed air to blow out the heat sink and you're good. Nerd autists will change their paste sometimes but it's really stupid unless you're having trouble in some way. e: Nowadays with nonconductive pastes it really doesn't matter if you add too much because the stuff that gets squeezed over the side of the CPU will just sit there not doing poo poo. Back in the day the pastes were sometimes conductive and could create shorts etc on the mobo beside the CPU. You basically need a pea sized amount in the center of the heat spreader on the CPU. You should spend more energy worrying about placing the cooler down evenly than how much paste you're using.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:00
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Oxyclean posted:I've got an i5-4590 - and I've noticed the stock heatsink fan is a bit noisy under load - what should I look for in a replacement/aftermarket? Don't need anything elaborate, just something that will be hopefully quieter. And do I need to buy new thermal paste separately or should coolers come with enough? I have that exact CPU and a Crorig H7 makes it 100% silent.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:30
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So, I was just gifted a Dell Ultrasharp U2515H. It's a really nice 1440P@60Hz IPS monitor. I'd really love to use it, but I know my current system can't play games at that resolution. My problem is, I'm not sure it's worth trying to upgrade the video card. Unfortunately I'm looking for a new job, I could swing a new 1060 but a whole system is a good 4 or 5 months away at this rate. I have an i5-750 oc'd to 3.36Ghz, 16GB of RAM, an 840 EVO SSD and a 2GB GTX 760. I know the CPU is going to hold my system back at this point, just not sure if it's bad enough to make a 1060 not worth it so I can use this swanky new monitor... tl;dr - Is it worth one last video card upgrade or would I just be flushing money down the toilet? Thanks. Q_res fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Sep 12, 2016 |
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Sep 12, 2016 02:37
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I have some open expansion slots in the back of my PC that I don't have metal covers for. Can I simply ducktape over them or are there some covers I can buy and install? I don't like having computer guts exposed.
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Sep 12, 2016 02:46
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if I have 8gb of ram. will an 8gb video card affect that?
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Sep 12, 2016 02:56
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jauk3n posted:if I have 8gb of ram. will an 8gb video card affect that? No, video ram on the video card is used to hold textures and stuff from games or 3d application and is accessed by the GPU. PC ram holds the data from running programs and is accessed by the CPU. They do similar jobs but aren't exactly related.
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Sep 12, 2016 03:09
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Agent355 posted:I have some open expansion slots in the back of my PC that I don't have metal covers for. Can I simply ducktape over them or are there some covers I can buy and install? I don't like having computer guts exposed. You can duct tape them if you really want. But positive pressure (with more intake fans than outtake) will stop any dust problems you might have from that.
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Sep 12, 2016 03:23
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I've seen people discuss ways of getting Windows 10 for cheaper than the full retail price in here before, is that still possible now since you can't upgrade from Windows 7 anymore?
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Sep 12, 2016 03:35
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Q_res posted:So, I was just gifted a Dell Ultrasharp U2515H. It's a really nice 1440P@60Hz IPS monitor. I'd really love to use it, but I know my current system can't play games at that resolution. My problem is, I'm not sure it's worth trying to upgrade the video card. Unfortunately I'm looking for a new job, I could swing a new 1060 but a whole system is a good 4 or 5 months away at this rate. I have an i5-750 oc'd to 3.36Ghz, 16GB of RAM, an 840 EVO SSD and a 2GB GTX 760. I know the CPU is going to hold my system back at this point, just not sure if it's bad enough to make a 1060 not worth it so I can use this swanky new monitor... Increased resolution leads to an increase in GPU requirements, but almost no increase in CPU requirements. If you can play a game at 60FPS at 1080p with your 760, you will be able to get 60FPS at 1440p if your GPU is fast enough. Considering your circumstances I'd definitely say GPU upgrade now (the 1060 is great), then CPU upgrade down the track when you can afford it.
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Sep 12, 2016 03:36
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Rexxed posted:No, video ram on the video card is used to hold textures and stuff from games or 3d application and is accessed by the GPU. PC ram holds the data from running programs and is accessed by the CPU. They do similar jobs but aren't exactly related. Thanks. Doing a build on pick a part and just doing some tweaks to a suggestion some one had made. Down graded to 8gb of ram from 16 cuz I don't need that much but didn't know if either thing affected the other.
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Sep 12, 2016 05:16
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jauk3n posted:Thanks. Doing a build on pick a part and just doing some tweaks to a suggestion some one had made. Down graded to 8gb of ram from 16 cuz I don't need that much but didn't know if either thing affected the other. You should get 16. Between Windows, a browser, and a game you can easily push 8GB. It doesn't cost that much more and you'll have a build that won't max out on you in a year or two.
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Sep 12, 2016 13:56
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MaxxBot posted:I've seen people discuss ways of getting Windows 10 for cheaper than the full retail price in here before, is that still possible now since you can't upgrade from Windows 7 anymore? Yes. Purchase from r/Microsoftsoftwareswap
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Sep 12, 2016 16:18
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Cat Army 
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A friendo with too much money wants a monster gaming build. Country:  Budget: ~300 x  Monitor: Ultrawide 1440p, 100ish hz Phoneposting so I'll just link the PCpartpicker: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/Vy6mD8
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Sep 13, 2016 02:14
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Aesculus posted:A friendo with too much money wants a monster gaming build. Is that budget in USD or AUS...D? A couple things for the build: - Go for 32gb of memory if he's going to spend that much and wants a monster build. - Get a 1tb 850 EVO instead of a 500gb 950 EVO. - Could get away with a 600-750w PSU if he wants to save some money there. - I'd get a cooler master hyper 212 evo instead of the $100 cooler. It'll do just as well.
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Sep 13, 2016 04:38
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I couldn't find a specific thread for this, so I figured I'd ask here - can anyone recommend a decent, widely available set of PC speakers? Right now I still have these YS-300 speakers from the 1990's (at least that's what I'm assuming, I couldn't even find a manufacturing date on Google, just people selling them on ebay). Amazingly, they still work fine, except every now and then I start getting static and have to jiggle the cable to get it right again. I'm looking for something with decent quality and fidelity, though nothing fancy or earth-shattering.
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Sep 13, 2016 11:11
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Phlegmish posted:I couldn't find a specific thread for this, so I figured I'd ask here - can anyone recommend a decent, widely available set of PC speakers? Right now I still have these YS-300 speakers from the 1990's (at least that's what I'm assuming, I couldn't even find a manufacturing date on Google, just people selling them on ebay). Amazingly, they still work fine, except every now and then I start getting static and have to jiggle the cable to get it right again. I have these: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bv38TW/logitech-speakers-980000800 Probably the best speakers you can get for the $20 -$30 range.
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Sep 13, 2016 14:54
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Very much an SSD noob here but it's a systemic question so I figure it doesn't fit in the SSD thread. I recently bought a desktop from newegg (specs are probably wildly not what I need for my primary goals of scanning massive amounts of paper and some video file processing, Z170-P, i7-6700k, gtx 970, 32gb ram, etc., but I'm v. happy with it all). The base question is that it came with a 120gb SSD boot drive. Fine, whatever, to be replaced. BUT... Back when I first started thinking about adding an SSD to my ancient former desktop, in November of 2014, I bought a Samsung 840 EVO 1tb. It's been sitting around unused since. I would occasionally try and clone my old desktop's 1tb HD to it, but for some unknown reason bootmgr kept disappearing from both the SSD and the original HD. I'd restore an image to the HD and go on with my life for a while. Now, with this new system, I'd like to use that old 840 EVO if I can. The question is, can I? I know it had a reputation of being problematic as heck, but is it overcome-able? In a best-case scenario I clone my 120 SSD install to the 1tb and use it as a boot drive and for programs. If that's not viable, I just stick the 840 in the case and use it as temp space for my primary use of scanning documents and processing them for subsequent permanent storage on different drives. But is it going to give me fits if I even try and use it either way?
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Sep 13, 2016 15:14
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HP Artsandcrafts posted:I have these: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bv38TW/logitech-speakers-980000800 Probably the best speakers you can get for the $20 -$30 range. Thanks for the tip. I found some for €28 and ordered. I'll miss my dinosaur speakers, I legitimately can't find the manufacturing year for the YS-300 model, but there's an old-looking CRT monitor on the cover of the packaging.
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Sep 13, 2016 17:37
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mustbetv posted:Very much an SSD noob here but it's a systemic question so I figure it doesn't fit in the SSD thread. Didn't the 840 EVO have some issues that were fixed by firmware updates? I would use Magician to update it and try with nonessential data to see if it gives you any issues after that.
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Sep 13, 2016 18:33
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Should be no problem reusing a functional 840 evo. As far as I know the 840 evo is totally fine as long as you update to the newest firmware. The known issue with 840 evos that I'm aware of was a performance/slowdown issue. I don't think there are other known 840 evo issues, so other issues other than slowdown may be a defective drive or some other problem. I have an 840 evo that I've been using for several years, it was affected by the slowdown bug which went away after I got the firmware updates to address it. Otherwise it is still working great.
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Sep 13, 2016 18:44
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Looking to build a gaming rig here, never really done it before. Country: USA Use: Exclusively for gaming and watching videos. Basically looking for a console replacement, so it'll be hooked up to the main TV in the living room. Monitor resolution: Well, it's a TV, so 1080p I guess. Budget: That's the part I'm here to ask about. I've been taking a look at the SA Performance gamer and SA Value gamer examples, the general price ranges seem to be about $1300 and $800 respectively. For going from console gaming to PC gaming, will the difference in performance between the two be noticeable enough to make $500 difference? The wife and I have been console gamers for awhile mostly because troubleshooting in the pre-Steam era felt like a pain. I understand it's smoothed out a lot now, but if running Fallout 4 will hit crashes significantly more often on the Value gamer then it may be worth saving up for the higher range.
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Sep 13, 2016 19:02
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Country: UK Use: Gaming, mostly. If I can run current games at high or above, I'll be happy with it. Budget: ideally 900 pounds, but I can go up to 1000 if it is worth it. Monitor resolution: 1080p. After taking a look myself, this is what I came up with: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BBGN6X CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£174.99 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.99 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£74.57 @ Amazon UK) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£69.91 @ More Computers) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£79.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.99 @ Ebuyer) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 4GB NITRO+ 4G Video Card (£204.98 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£67.82 @ CCL Computers) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (£23.00 @ BT Shop) Total: £848.23 Anything horribly wrong in there? I'm not sure I need a CPU cooler, for example.
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Sep 13, 2016 20:45
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The i5-6500 comes with an apparently decent cooler included, so you don't need the extra cooler unless you expect temperatures in your build to be exceptionally high for whatever reason. It's the i5-6600k and i7-6700k that don't come with stock coolers. Not much to say about your build for me, your motherboard only supports DDR4-2133MHz, but if there's no price difference or what you have now is cheaper, it doesn't really matter.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:28
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Phlegmish posted:The i5-6500 comes with an apparently decent cooler included, so you don't need the extra cooler unless you expect temperatures in your build to be exceptionally high for whatever reason. It's the i5-6600k and i7-6700k that don't come with stock coolers. Upgrading to an i5-6600k would fit the budget still. Do you think it's a good idea? I have never done overclocking, but I'm not opposed to it.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:38
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mustbetv posted:Now, with this new system, I'd like to use that old 840 EVO if I can. The question is, can I? I know it had a reputation of being problematic as heck, but is it overcome-able? In a best-case scenario I clone my 120 SSD install to the 1tb and use it as a boot drive and for programs. If that's not viable, I just stick the 840 in the case and use it as temp space for my primary use of scanning documents and processing them for subsequent permanent storage on different drives. But is it going to give me fits if I even try and use it either way? I was using an 840 EVO as my primary drive until a month ago, and it'll be going in another machine when I build it. Update the firmware and straight on until daylight.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:44
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