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Just got back from some good times at the park trying to learn to hover in acro by LOS; trying to do it via the screen would have been a fool's errand for how hard a time I was having. Still had fun, though. Got dRonin working on my Surface, too, so I Autotune'd the thing and got it updated. Felt much more responsive for as little movement as I was willing to do. Some jugglers asked if I would fly my drone between them as they threw their pins. I so badly wanted to say yes but lack of confidence said no.  Also noticed my FPV picture degrading over time, and I just now noticed a large nick in the FPV transmitter antenna. I'll have to see if Hobby Town USA stocks those tomorrow, replace it. Voltage alarm kept going off way too fast seemingly, though, like two minutes a battery. None of them have cells lower than 3.65v, so I guess the thing must be set at 3.7v. I'll have to set that lower. 3.0v is the lowest safe level, right? I'll set it to 3.1 if so, soon as I figure out how. Speaking of safe, some of the batteries are noticeably bulgier than the others; the one on the right especially. Do they need to be thrown out, or is this normal with LiPo?  hi catte Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Sep 17, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 02:58
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 17:31 |
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I dunno about the batteries but definitely bring that cat over here and post it more.
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Sep 17, 2016 02:58
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Man I forgot about the 'pos, i'm on my way
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Sep 17, 2016 02:59
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The one on the right looks quite puffed and should probably be handled with caution. Don't set your voltage alarm lower than 3.3.
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Sep 17, 2016 04:40
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Get rid of all three of those puffed batteries, they're dangerous.
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Sep 17, 2016 05:43
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That was what I planned to do tomorrow when I go to Hobby Town to get a new antenna, yeah. They're still puffed up long after cooling down, so
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Sep 17, 2016 06:49
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yeah #3 and #6 are probably past their usable life for quads. Drain them safely and discard. #2 is probably usable but it's on its way out. Better to find some low-current use for that on the ground instead of on your quad where it could fail while in the air.
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Sep 17, 2016 06:51
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Would it be safe to plug them into my charger on the discharge program, or do I need to find some other drain method? It's one of these iMax B6AC v2 (dis)charger units, for reference. (e) I guess I can just take em to Home Depot as they are and let them worry about it 
Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Sep 17, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 07:10
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Discharge program is fine. Use a bag, obviously
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Sep 17, 2016 07:46
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Hum, looks like it only goes down to about 3.0-3.1v per cell before it stops the discharge program. Oh well, I'll look into it again tomorrow probably, if the Hobby Town guys don't just take em off my hands.
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Sep 17, 2016 08:01
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Sadly it appears either the roof stay or flying with a slightly torn antenna has fried either the FPV transmitter or the camera on the Each ine, and the guys at the hobby store wanted to sell me a new drone, saying the transmitter was proprietary. So I guess I'll use this to learn Los flying instead. Oh well!
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Sep 17, 2016 20:16
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You can always just drop them in a bucket of salt water if you want to permanently dispose of them. After a week or two of that they should have 0 charge left. After they are at 0v you can just throw them in the trash. Battery recycling places can't do anything with lipos iirc.
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Sep 17, 2016 20:34
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Ciaphas posted:I could not figure out for the life of me how to make anything but Yaw+Throttle work for arm/disarm in dRonin. Though maybe I can mess around more with that now that I know how to get into the settings menu on the FS-i6. Ciaphas posted:Got dRonin working on my Surface, too, so I Autotune'd the thing and got it updated. Felt much more responsive for as little movement as I was willing to do. ImplicitAssembler posted:Don't set your voltage alarm lower than 3.3. Ciaphas posted:Sadly it appears either the roof stay or flying with a slightly torn antenna has fried either the FPV transmitter or the camera on the Each ine, and the guys at the hobby store wanted to sell me a new drone, saying the transmitter was proprietary. So I guess I'll use this to learn Los flying instead. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Sep 17, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 20:51
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Combat Pretzel posted:Put a switch on a channel, then either manually configure the channel on the Input page, or go through the Configuration Wizard on the same page and reconfigure all your inputs, where at some point it'll ask you to engage the switch to configure it. Once you have a working switch, you can go into the Arming Settings and select Switch+Throttle+Delay, which will arm the quad with the switch, but only if throttle is zero (so you don't gently caress up your fingers), and the delay makes sure the gyros get zeroed. Dunno what PIDs are so I didn't change them As for the arming, I finally figured out how to get into the settings menu on the RC. Near as I can tell this thing only has six transmission channels--four for roll pitch yaw and throttle, and two more which can be bound to any of the four switches or two potentiometers at the top of the RC. Says currently channel 5 is bound to the switch that controls flight mode (acro, leveling, and autotune) and that's set to changing flight mode, and channel 6 is bound to the switch that controls the lights. Maybe since I wanna leave it in acro mode I can change that switch and modify it in dronin... I'll go gently caress around with it right now. (edit) Ha, got it, thanks, I'm a wizard and a sorceror. I have to assume that without a flight mode switch it'll default to acro, I don't have time to go outside and check right now. It's set to one flight mode available in dRonin, and it's on Acro, so I assume it's right. (edit again) As for the FPV yeah I got the feeling they were trying to push one on me, but they're the only game in town as far as brick and mortar FPV stuff near as I can tell so I gotta wait anyway. Maybe tomorrow I'll try to disassemble the quad and remove the FPV transmitter and camera, at least. Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Sep 17, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 22:17
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller The type of controller that does the stabilization of your quad. There's the process variable, which is a measurement of state, and the setpoint, where you want to be, the error is the difference between the two. The PID controller outputs a control variable that's the sum of the error proportionally, integrally and differentially. When someone talks about changing or resetting the PIDs, it means changing the different gains for the proportional, integral and differential responses, typically and creatively called P, I and D. There's two loops, the inner loop does the rate mode, i.e. how much degrees per second around an axis. The outer loop is active in attitude/leveling mode, telling the inner loop how fast to rotate what way on which axis. If you run autotune on dRonin (or Taulabs or Librepilot), you should reset the PIDs to default, otherwise it might measure a bunch of crap. I keep meaning to try implementing my idea to integrating switch over to tame PIDs during the autotune process, but with dRonin (and the rest of the OpenPilot branch of firmwares), it's running out of RAM on the F1 platform, with what using a proper RTOS eating lots of RAM. That said, it seems like the plan is to put out an LTS release and then drop support for F1 going forward. There's a new improved autotune process in the plans that won't work on F1, and later based on that some model-predictive control approach instead of PIDs. Taulabs, or rather the last remaining holdout/hopeful called peabody124, is working on an LQG controller, which is also supposed to be super-awesome, but I ported it to a test branch on dRonin and the publicly available codedrop flies like crap. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 00:48
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Just a heads up, you can get replacement FPV stuff on Banggood for that quad for a song. Looking at mobile so I'm not sure exactly, but I think this is it. $25.99 http://m.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-5_8G-600MW-32CH-Transmitter-Built-in-OSD-p-1007088.html And here's the antenna, $4 http://m.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-Mushroom-Antenna-RP-SMA-Male-p-1007084.html And sorry about the batteries, not sure what's going on with them. I had cycled them all and charged them down (or up) to storage voltages when it got put away. If you eant cheap replacements those models go on sale on hobbyking for under $10 each. Frozen Pizza Party fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 01:57
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SaNChEzZ posted:Just a heads up, you can get replacement FPV stuff on Banggood for that quad for a song. It was probably (almost definitely) my fault because I left them fully charged while the drone was on the roof, not realizing that 'storage voltage' was a thing. I'm learning so much the past couple days Thanks for the links, I'll hop on those next week and work on replacing em.
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Sep 18, 2016 02:21
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Well the math flew over my head but the concept is clear, thanks. I don't think I reset those before autotuning, and it flew a little squirrel-y this afternoon (mainly really wanting to yaw to the right, but some other strangeness too), so I'll do it again tomorrow. I actually get scared of raising it more than 15 feet or so in the air, now. I'm traumatized by The Terracotta Triangle Incident
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Sep 18, 2016 02:22
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mashed_penguin posted:You can always just drop them in a bucket of salt water if you want to permanently dispose of them. After a week or two of that they should have 0 charge left. After they are at 0v you can just throw them in the trash. Battery recycling places can't do anything with lipos iirc. Salt water is a terrible way to kill batteries. The terminals corrode faster than the pack will discharge and you are left with a charged battery with no way to drain it. Just use a lightbulb to drain it to zero volts and then twist the leads together so it stays at zero. Once they are dead they are safe to process as municipal waste.
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Sep 18, 2016 02:30
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helno posted:Salt water is a terrible way to kill batteries. The terminals corrode faster than the pack will discharge and you are left with a charged battery with no way to drain it. I cut the terminals off and just have bare leads. It's always worked for me the times I've done it. 
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Sep 18, 2016 03:02
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Ciaphas posted:It was probably (almost definitely) my fault because I left them fully charged while the drone was on the roof, not realizing that 'storage voltage' was a thing. I'm learning so much the past couple days The storage charge thing is overblown. The #1 killer of lipos is storage temperature, the #2 killer of lipos is storage voltage. The #0 killer of lipos in THIS HOBBY is ramming them into a tree at 40mph, so they burst into flame. Keep your lipos indoors in a climate controlled environment. Stop caring so much about the state of charge. You will probably cut the lifespan from 600 cycles to 200 cycles by leaving them fully charged ... so, what, you have to replace a $12 battery after 2 years instead of 6 years? Will you even want these lipos with "only" 1800mah of capacity instead of whatever nano-filament graphene-hydrogen 9600mah packs are available at the time? If you remember it later, go "oh yeah, storage charge" and drain them down a bit. Don't beat yourself up for not doing it -- leaving them charged does not puff them. Now, leaving them severely discharged may...
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Sep 18, 2016 03:57
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Ciaphas posted:Well the math flew over my head but the concept is clear, thanks. In the pursuit of even faster convergence times, the *flight communities are on the ill-guided path of faster loops. Of course, if the system delay is in the 10ms and upwards, there's no point in going 8KHz and upwards. Some oversampling is OK, say running at 1KHz, but going beyond that is CPU time wasted that could be spent on more sophisticated algorithms. If you want to realize shorter system delays, you have to go with system modeling instead. For that you need to have some math wiz on the team to deal with the way more complex algorithms. Given the propensity for cargo culting in the *flight projects, I'd say they have none. dRonin has a math wiz, but whether his ideas will eventually work is still up in the air.
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Sep 18, 2016 13:35
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Combat Pretzel posted:Eh, the math is relatively simple compared to other concepts. Going beyond that will be interesting. YES. People need to realize how limited PID really is. Having a state space model or something in the FC could offer much more improvement than faster loop times.
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Sep 18, 2016 14:06
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timecop was right
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Sep 18, 2016 16:45
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Timecop, who figured it was a great idea to stick a CP2102 in front of an STM32.
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Sep 18, 2016 17:07
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Alright time to test out the slingshot+fishing line recovery method....
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Sep 18, 2016 17:27
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I have a foam pusher-prop glider that I want to add some electronic stability and autonomy to. I don't have a specific goal in mind, but I'd like to get some kind of active wings-leveling system in it, and it'd be cool if I could launch it and have it follow some waypoints I set up on Google Maps or something, then return to a home location. I already have the basic manual RC gear (the radio is a Turnigy 9X with er9x). I'm looking at autopilot modules like the Ardupilot; I'm very comfortable with Arduino programming, so I think that (likely the HobbyKing HKpilot version) would be the direction I'd go. I'll need an add-on GPS module as well. I've never done any autonomous RC, though, so what else do I need to make this work?
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Sep 18, 2016 17:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:Timecop, who figured it was a great idea to stick a CP2102 in front of an STM32. Eh, he only did that to maintain compatibility with the funfly board.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:16
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Sagebrush posted:I have a foam pusher-prop glider that I want to add some electronic stability and autonomy to. I don't have a specific goal in mind, but I'd like to get some kind of active wings-leveling system in it, and it'd be cool if I could launch it and have it follow some waypoints I set up on Google Maps or something, then return to a home location. Here is a pretty good guide! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1bmyse5pMSU
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Sep 18, 2016 18:54
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I went ahead and set all the PID values and stuff to default in dRonin and reran autotune. Feels a bit smoother now, though I haven't been to the park proper to do anything yet. Thanks for the advice on that. Also got my trainer cable today so I picked up FPVFreerider. Flying FPV is hard!! Gonna go watch those videos someone recommended and use this to practice until I get the new transmitter and stuff.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:51
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bring back old gbs posted:Alright time to test out the slingshot+fishing line recovery method.... poo poo works yo. Got it down so quickly I might even be able to save the lipo. Prize:  Tools: 
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Sep 18, 2016 20:01
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Ciaphas posted:Also got my trainer cable today so I picked up FPVFreerider. Flying FPV is hard!! Gonna go watch those videos someone recommended and use this to practice until I get the new transmitter and stuff.
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Sep 18, 2016 21:42
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Here is a pretty good guide! This is really great, cheers  I'm watching the whole series.One thing that I'm still not clear on, which he doesn't seem to go over, is sending data back and forth to the plane while it's in the air. If I wanted to, say, use the ground software (Mission Planner) to update waypoints while the vehicle is underway, would a 433MHz telemetry radio like the http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-sik-telemetry-radio.html be capable of that?
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Sep 18, 2016 21:43
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I wonder if any of the FPV simulators support the Vive or Oculus. Or if anyone's tried dragging their Vive out to the field and using it as FPV goggles yet. Combat Pretzel posted:Never got the hang of flying via FPVFreerider or Hotprops, altho lately everyone's swearing on Liftoff. Just go flying over grass where it can crash softly, and be sure to have spare props. Go with DAL, or if you want to cheap out a lot, with Kingkong. What helps a drat lot is decent rates, in the dRonin sense. The default 150°/sec stem from the old days of slowboating big quads. I'd suggest to go with something like 540°/s and 67% expo. This'll give you around 200°/s at center stick (50% between neutral and edge) and goes up to 540°/s at the edge for flips and poo poo. You're suggesting these settings for all three axes of rotation on the inner loop, right? Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Sep 19, 2016 |
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Sep 19, 2016 01:34
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Sagebrush posted:This is really great, cheers Any of the cheapo 433 or 900mhz apm telemetry radio sets you can search for on eBay will work. I'd get the 900mhz in case you ever get an LRS receiver / transmitter for control
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Sep 19, 2016 01:56
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HASijXBiV8 Playing with diggers again. On the next pack, I tried to get all 3, but ended crashing into the middle one. No real damage done. (Long live EPP!)
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Sep 19, 2016 06:49
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Any of the cheapo 433 or 900mhz apm telemetry radio sets you can search for on eBay will work. I'd get the 900mhz in case you ever get an LRS receiver / transmitter for control Googling around, LRS seems to be a software-defined radio transmitter and receiver system. That's neat, but what are the advantages over the 2.4ghz system that comes with the Turnigy 9X?
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Sep 19, 2016 09:28
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Sagebrush posted:Googling around, LRS seems to be a software-defined radio transmitter and receiver system. That's neat, but what are the advantages over the 2.4ghz system that comes with the Turnigy 9X? much much longer range
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Sep 19, 2016 09:42
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 Doinker flying, if a little unstable. MAN this thing's loud compared to a woop. Spent a couple hours trying to figure out why I couldn't get the receiver to work before realizing I was using the cleanflight configurator instead of the betaflight configurator (you can do just about everything in cleanflight without any issues, but going into the receiver tab sits at "waiting for signal" forever), un-soldered the receiver thinking I'd damaged the wires somehow even. At least now I've got telemetry, didn't add that wire the first time around.
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Sep 19, 2016 10:49
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 17:31 |
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LRS also gives you better penetration of trees and structures. Of course that means poo poo, if the video can't do it. Then again, 433MHz radio lets you use 1.2GHz video. If you're willing to haul a bigass antenna on your quad.
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Sep 19, 2016 11:54
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