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Why are you sleeping in your closet?
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Sep 18, 2016 17:27
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Because I want to spend as much time in the closet as possible. The small room I'll be sleeping in has a window. The larger room does not have a window, and it's the room which has access to the panel and water heater. It's essentially the entirety of the basement (which is actually the main floor of a three story townhouse) The house is less than a decade old, but for some reason they designed it like an old house with rooms that are hard to use for anything. Probably one of the worst designed houses I've been in. I think the small room was originally designed for a bathroom since there is piping already installed. The adjacent large room would be a rec room or something. But if that was the case it would make the house into a 4 bathroom 3 bedroom. 2 of those bedrooms are about 8' x 8'
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Sep 18, 2016 18:03
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I'm looking to drill a hole in my Wii U to replace one of the internal antennae with an external one. Hard plastic is not a material I've worked with before, and there's surprisingly scarce documentation online on how to do this particular mod. I'm caught up on what drill bit to use. I think the brad point aka lip and spur bit is what I need, at 1/4". Is there anything else in particular I should be looking for in a bit? I already know to take it slow, oil the bit, clamp down the plastic, and have a piece of scrap wood for the bit to enter when it comes out the other end. Any other words of wisdom? I fear cracking.
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Sep 19, 2016 05:08
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A Bag of Milk posted:I'm looking to drill a hole in my Wii U to replace one of the internal antennae with an external one. Hard plastic is not a material I've worked with before, and there's surprisingly scarce documentation online on how to do this particular mod. I'm caught up on what drill bit to use. I think the brad point aka lip and spur bit is what I need, at 1/4". Is there anything else in particular I should be looking for in a bit? I already know to take it slow, oil the bit, clamp down the plastic, and have a piece of scrap wood for the bit to enter when it comes out the other end. Any other words of wisdom? I fear cracking. I would not use oil if I was drilling in plastic. Double so if electronics are still inside. If you have the case off, then really it's just a start small get bigger job. Begin with a sharp 1/16 or smaller and slowly work your way up.
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Sep 19, 2016 14:50
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I would not use oil if I was drilling in plastic. Double so if electronics are still inside. If you have the case off, then really it's just a start small get bigger job. Begin with a sharp 1/16 or smaller and slowly work your way up. This, plus I want to say the wii u case is ABS? I'm fairly confident my Xbox case is. If you already have the plastic cover off, look for a recycling mark to tell you what kind of plastic it's made out of. I'd also use painters tape and cover both sides of the hole you wish to drill to help prevent/mitigate cracking. Otherwise should be pretty straightforward, like xmasgift said, start small and work your way up with standard drill bits. vvThat Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Sep 19, 2016 |
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Sep 19, 2016 16:02
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I think you're overthinking it. Drill baby, drill!
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Sep 19, 2016 16:03
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I'd worry about it cracking. How thick? Soldering iron and melt it? Bonus: toxic fumes!
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Sep 19, 2016 16:20
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A Bag of Milk posted:I'm looking to drill a hole in my Wii U to replace one of the internal antennae with an external one. Hard plastic is not a material I've worked with before, and there's surprisingly scarce documentation online on how to do this particular mod. I'm caught up on what drill bit to use. I think the brad point aka lip and spur bit is what I need, at 1/4". Is there anything else in particular I should be looking for in a bit? I already know to take it slow, oil the bit, clamp down the plastic, and have a piece of scrap wood for the bit to enter when it comes out the other end. Any other words of wisdom? I fear cracking. Get a 1/16" drill bit, drill a pilot hole. Then take your 1/4" bit, set the drill in reverse, and drill the hole. Press hard, since you're basically just melting the plastic now. It'll look fine. When you're done, take a 1/2" drill bit and VERY LIGHTLY use it to put a chamfer on the inside and outside of the hole. That'll clean up any melting marks.
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Sep 19, 2016 16:32
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Thanks everyone. I'll work my way up the bit sizes then.
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Sep 19, 2016 17:32
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Get a 1/16" drill bit, drill a pilot hole. Then take your 1/4" bit, set the drill in reverse, and drill the hole. Press hard, since you're basically just melting the plastic now. It'll look fine. When you're done, take a 1/2" drill bit and VERY LIGHTLY use it to put a chamfer on the inside and outside of the hole. That'll clean up any melting marks. That's a great idea to run the drill bit in reverse, I'm filing that one away for future use. I've used the same idea when cutting pvc trim--mount a plywood saw blade backwards to prevent tearout, and painters tape the cut line
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Sep 19, 2016 17:59
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OSU_Matthew posted:painters tape the cut line That can help sometimes with preventing splinters along a wood cut.
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Sep 19, 2016 20:29
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Get a compression rod, like for a shower curtain, and hang it off of that, maybe? Seconded. I have a shower curtain for a bathroom door, because my master bathroom is stupid and has no door (and the doorway is an odd size that doors don't fit in). Safety Dance posted:I think you're overthinking it. Drill baby, drill!
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Sep 20, 2016 06:34
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Electrical line chat. I'm running some 1" conduit to carry electricity from my main panel out to my workshop, where I'll install a sub-panel. 1" is gross overkill (only currently planned to contain 3x 6-gauge THHN), but whatever. The run will exit the house above the main panel, run along the outside of the house, then go down into a trench and come up at the workshop wall. Total run length is about 40-50'. I can't run the entire thing underground without disturbing an awful lot of concrete. Materials: I'm using schedule 80 PVC for the underground section, with rigid metal conduit (RMC) 90° sweeps to come up from the ground. Do I need to use RMC for the aboveground section of the run as well, or does EMT suffice? If I have to use RMC, how do I go about attaching it to fittings? Do I need to get a thread cutter, or is there some kind of pressure fitting that would be appropriate? Threading: Where pipes are threaded together, do I need to use some kind of tape or glue or something to make them waterproof? If so, what's the recommended approach? Relatedly, when screwing conduit straps to my house, should I fill the screw holes with silicone caulk or what? Seems to me that untreated holes would allow for water intrusion. Fittings: Is there any particular reason not to use "90 degree with pullout" fittings (like this) for all of my bends? Besides cost, obviously. Seems like it would simplify the process of fishing the cables significantly, and of course take care of the "have a pull point every 360° at minimum" rule. Trench fill: Should I get sand or gravel or something to fill in the bottom section of the trench? Or can I just re-fill with the dirt I removed previously? I do have the required warning tape already. I also want to run a water line, as my current hose access in the back yard is a hose bib in an inconvenient location. I want to add a new hose bib next to the workshop. I figure I can replace the current hose bib with a T fitting, run pipe out along the house, through the trench, and up again, and put the new hose bib and/or sillcock next to the workshop. My main question here is, what kind of material should I make the aboveground section of the run from? From reading, it sounds like the recommended material for underground runs is CPVC; can I just use that for the entire thing (and paint it to give it some UV protection)? If not, what should I use? Copper would be...expensive. If PVC is acceptable, I assume I just use PVC solvent/cement for all the fittings except for where the hose bib / T fitting will be, where I'd need to use teflon tape since they're made of metal. How frequently does a .5" ID water line need to be supported? Thanks in advance.
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Sep 20, 2016 18:02
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I know very little about this, but I do know that here you can't run electrical and water in the same trench.
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Sep 20, 2016 18:08
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Gounads posted:I know very little about this, but I do know that here you can't run electrical and water in the same trench. I specifically asked the inspector about this, and he said that there was nothing in the local code preventing me from doing so, as long as the water line was at least 12" belowground. I'm in a part of California that never freezes.
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Sep 20, 2016 18:22
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My cats murdered my walls so I have been thinking about removing everything and just painting but I'm not sure how long it'll take. How hard is it to remove wallpaper and paint? And how long should it take for half a 300 sq ft apartment?
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Sep 21, 2016 17:59
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Painting is easy, and that's a pretty small apartment. Once the paper's off, a day. Two if you have to do drywall repair and wait for it to dry. I don't have a lot of experience with wallpaper removal but as I understand it, it shouldn't be bad, depending on what you find underneath. If everything goes great, the whole thing can be done in a weekend, easily.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 21, 2016 18:36
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Kind of depends on the wallpaper. Older wallpaper + paste I feel like sticks to walls REALLY well. Even with wallpaper remover, you could be in for a lot of scraping. My fiance and I had to remove just a small piece of border wallpaper, and we found this scraper thing that really helped:  And we found a tip that Windex can help remove the glue and that worked really well, too. We scraped it a lot with the red thing, sprayed the WIndex, waited a few minutes, and peeled it off fairly effortlessly, but it was newer wallpaper so that might have been a factor.
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Sep 21, 2016 19:45
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Seconding that it really depends on the wallpaper. Newer kinds with the thicker, waxier paper can peel off all in one piece. Also seconding a Paper Tiger. They're great for pricking holes all over the wallpaper. That gives your removal method a way to reach the glue and not just sit on the surface. In fact, with waxy wallpaper, those tools are almost a requirement. For a small apartment, I'd use some wallpaper remover. You basically mix it with water in a bucket or bathroom trash can or something, then apply it with a sponge. How much you will need depends again on how sticky your wallpaper glue is. Now if you have an entire house to do, you might want to buy or borrow a wallpaper steamer. They're on craiglist a lot since they're basically a single use item. Now they will make your place humid as gently caress, so much so that paint or drywall mud in neighboring rooms won't dry. Guess how I found out?
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Sep 21, 2016 20:02
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I'll post the "trick" I use again for getting wallpaper off: Get a spray bottle and fill it with hot tap water. Put in a couple tablespoons of dish soap. Spray a small (3x3) section. Like dripping, soaking wet. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Peel off the wallpaper. If it's shiny you may not get more than the top layer off - just repeat the process with what's under there. Once you get it all off the glue is probably still on there. Use hot water, TSP and a scrubby sponge. Use the hot water/TSP and a rag on all other painted surfaces before you paint them.
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Sep 21, 2016 20:03
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My wife just bought a Brother PE770 embroidery machine. It's cool, but we want to start digitizing logos and stuff to embroider and we can't make heads or tails of the software out on the market. We're not looking to do anything crazy, just 1 color logos, 5-15k stitches, etc. Any tips? Yes, we googled embroidery software but there doesn't appear to be anything actually helpful.
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Sep 22, 2016 05:10
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Beast of Bourbon posted:My wife just bought a Brother PE770 embroidery machine. It's cool, but we want to start digitizing logos and stuff to embroider and we can't make heads or tails of the software out on the market. It's all garbage, or very expensive garbage. If you find something good post back here please.
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Sep 22, 2016 06:28
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I have a shower head I want to replace but it is stuck as gently caress to the thingy. I've tried wd-40, strap wrench, rubber grip things + bare hands, regular wrenches.. nothing works. I can't tell if it's rusted on or calcified or what. Any ideas? Maybe I should tie a baggy around it and fill it with CLR or something?
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Sep 22, 2016 15:03
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Jaypeeh posted:I have a shower head I want to replace but it is stuck as gently caress to the thingy. I've tried wd-40, strap wrench, rubber grip things + bare hands, regular wrenches.. nothing works. I can't tell if it's rusted on or calcified or what. Any ideas? Maybe I should tie a baggy around it and fill it with CLR or something? Are you sure you're looking at the right joint? I once spent fifteen minutes, a ton of WD-40, and a torch trying to remove a shower head only to discover that the actual connection was slightly further up and I'd been twisting the wrong way. Damned thing had a decorative "joint" to a short section of pipe that it was actually permanently connected to, and it was the pipe that tied into the house water system.
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Sep 22, 2016 15:29
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Are you sure you're looking at the right joint? I once spent fifteen minutes, a ton of WD-40, and a torch trying to remove a shower head only to discover that the actual connection was slightly further up and I'd been twisting the wrong way. Damned thing had a decorative "joint" to a short section of pipe that it was actually permanently connected to, and it was the pipe that tied into the house water system. I think so, on mine there's just a basic shower head connected to what I think you'd call a ball or swivel joint, and just past that is what I can only describe as a large, elongated 'nut' that is connected to some threads that are on the pipe that comes out of the wall. It's that nut that I can't get to turn.. I think maybe I just need to try a bigger locking vice grip that can totally enclose the thing I need to make turn. I looked at the threads again and they definitely look like they have a lot of calcium build-up. Thanks for the tips. It's one of those things I try to do every 3 months or so, fail, then forget about.. I just have this nicer shower head laying around that I bought a year ago. edit: doing some lazy google research, I think I might try scrubbing it with hot vinegar and a toothbrush or something. I know this is becoming quite a fascinating project to you all so I'll keep you updated.(jk) edit2: Turns out the 'nut' I was referring to is really just a smooth, cylinder with no sides, which is making it even more difficult to turn. Goddammit! I wrapped some paper towels soaked in vinegar+lemon juice around the exposed threads and will try again in a bit.. failing that, I guess I'll give it another go 3 or 4 months down the line. Jaypeeh fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 15:41
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Jaypeeh posted:I think so, on mine there's just a basic shower head connected to what I think you'd call a ball or swivel joint, and just past that is what I can only describe as a large, elongated 'nut' that is connected to some threads that are on the pipe that comes out of the wall. It's that nut that I can't get to turn.. I think maybe I just need to try a bigger locking vice grip that can totally enclose the thing I need to make turn. I looked at the threads again and they definitely look like they have a lot of calcium build-up. Thanks for the tips. It's one of those things I try to do every 3 months or so, fail, then forget about.. I just have this nicer shower head laying around that I bought a year ago. CLR can help in some situations. It's nasty stuff, keep the vent fan on, wear gloves and goggles as you're going to be holding it up there for a while to dissolve the joint. Also you're committed to it at that point as it may also destroy your shower head.
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Sep 22, 2016 16:18
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Blow torch can help too if it's metal. Do you have a pipe wrench?
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Sep 22, 2016 16:26
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I want my phone to buzz with a push notification when someone rings my doorbell. I assume there are home automation solutions readily available for this, but I'm not sure where to start. I have easy access to the doorbell wiring all the way back to the transformer at the breaker panel, which is (not so incidentally) within arm's reach of my house's network switch. Any recommendations? With the thought that going forward, I'll probably add more similar home automation stuff, so sticking with a single brand would probably be nice so I don't have half a dozen apps on my phone for the various systems.
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Sep 22, 2016 16:42
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I use a Skybell that does that for me in addition to providing a video feed. I don't recall it being terribly expensive or difficult to setup.
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Sep 22, 2016 16:49
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I set up a Raspberry Pi to sent me a timestamp text whenever its camera detected motion in my apartment when I was gone, total parts bill was maybe $40. If you want to set up something like that to do the same when the doorbell wire is energized I could give you some pointers and links to tutorials. If you want to integrate it into an overall home automation or don't have the inclination or patience to DIY it then obviously that's not the best solution.
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Sep 22, 2016 22:22
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I DIY and home-brew stuff all the time, but for this, I'm looking for something that'll actually be up and running in a timely fashion, and be stable and not cobbled-together-looking. 
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Sep 22, 2016 22:39
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I live in S. Texas and even with the AC set to like 75 it's still hot and humid. I've been thinking about going the route of a whole home dehumidifier hooked up to my central AC. Anyone have any experience with these? Curious if I have the dehumidifier running I can increase the temp and still be comfortable?
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Sep 22, 2016 22:40
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Super 3 posted:I live in S. Texas and even with the AC set to like 75 it's still hot and humid. I've been thinking about going the route of a whole home dehumidifier hooked up to my central AC. Anyone have any experience with these? Curious if I have the dehumidifier running I can increase the temp and still be comfortable? How big is your house? I live in coastal Alabama, and we recently bought a 70 pint standalone unit, and it's made a big difference. Don't have to turn the AC down nearly as much, nearly as often. We keep the dehumidifier located centrally in the house, and it does a pretty good job of knocking down the humidity in our 1500sqft house.
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Sep 23, 2016 06:17
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Is there a consensus on block vs poured concrete foundations? We're building a small addition with a crawlspace, and the excavation was done a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, we've had a lot of rain (and looks like we have more in the coming week) so they haven't been able to pour the concrete. Today my GC said he could build the foundation up with concrete blocks rather than poured concrete. From some light googling, it sounds like properly installed blocks can be as good as poured concrete, but in general they are going to be more prone to water leakage issues. We just found some water in our basement after a storm a few days ago, so I want to make sure I'm not sacrificing any sort of waterproofing capabilities. Edit: also, to clarify, I'm just talking about a crawlspace foundation that will be adjacent to the original full basement. I'm not sure if the block/poured arguments are different when you're just talking about a crawspace. Mr Executive fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 16:32
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That's my understanding as well. Block can be fine, but poured is more likely to be better.
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Sep 23, 2016 16:44
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What kind of hinge is this: It lets the top of the desk come off if it's bent more than 90 degrees. I'm doing another project and I want to get a couple, but I have no idea what to search for.
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Sep 23, 2016 21:05
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 I found this hanging off the wall in the kitchen. The cheater plug wasn't even screwed in. A microwave and a bunch of lights in the living room connected by an extension cord were plugged into it. The roommate keeps plugging it back in after I express that I don't think it's safe. I don't know anything about electricity but it's not just me, right? That's a fire hazard?
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Sep 23, 2016 21:13
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Met posted:I don't know anything about electricity but it's not just me, right? That's a fire hazard? IANAE but I'm pretty sure a permanent extension cord is at the very least a code violation (with exemption for dedicated surge suppressors).
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Sep 23, 2016 22:33
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Met posted:The cheater plug wasn't even screwed in. I have *never* seen one of these screwed in.
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Sep 24, 2016 01:38
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How do I remove these flanges?  I see no obvious fastening mechanism 
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Sep 24, 2016 01:53
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